Blichmann BrewEasy

[Gustatorian]

Has anyone used the Blichmann Riptide pump with the BrewEasy/ToP? I use the March pump that came with the system, and the ToP sight glass shows that flow top out around 3.0 GPM (not sure if the pump is actually pushing it faster), but I'm wondering if the riptide will increase the flow...I'm looking to increase my whirlpool flow...

 

[MAD_Brewer]

I wanted to see what everyone though of their BrewEasy setup. If you were starting from scratch would you still go this route? I'm limited on storage space but have the ability to have 240 and this setup seems to be more compact that a 3 vessel system.

 

[Jim_B]

I wanted to see what everyone though of their BrewEasy setup. If you were starting from scratch would you still go this route? I'm limited on storage space but have the ability to have 240 and this setup seems to be more compact that a 3 vessel system.

I like mine. Is it perfect, no, but it allows me to brew some great beer in a very limited space. Once you get past some of the learning curve issues it works well. As you will see in the threads, temperature control is an issue if you are using the built in thermometer. The thermowell does not go deep enough into the mash to get a good reading. By a cheap stick thermometer and insert it into the mash and confirm your tower temp with that, easy enough.

 

[Moose_MI]

I wanted to see what everyone though of their BrewEasy setup. If you were starting from scratch would you still go this route? I'm limited on storage space but have the ability to have 240 and this setup seems to be more compact that a 3 vessel system.

I totally agree with Jim_B ...it's not perfect but I like mine. I can brew a 1/2bbl batch if I want and this thing takes up less than a 3'x3' sq in my garage. I used to hall all my gear back and forth from the basement to garage but not anymore. I blow about $3 oin grain per 10g batch because I run around 65% eff...meh.
There is a learning curve...you will likely get frustrated until you get 4 or 5 batches under your belt....but you will figure it out.

In all fairness I think a lot of the things that folks don't like are more attributable to the fact this is a kettle rims system .... it's not really an issue with Breweasy .... it's just the way a kettle rims system behaves regardless of the brand.

 

[user 64432]

I have both 240v and a NG gas hookup available, which system would you get, gas or electric?

Building out new garage space, going to order one soon, just not sure which way to go.

 

[Moose_MI]

I have both 240v and a NG gas hookup available, which system would you get, gas or electric?

Building out new garage space, going to order one soon, just not sure which way to go.

The loud alarm that goes off every time the pid fires the burner is really annoying. I've never used electric but I sure wouldn't miss that stupid alarm

 

[Rmccall95]

I have to think that electric is more efficient than LPG. With my burners going, the amount of heat rising *outside* my kettles is really alarming. That represents lost energy! With the electric elements immersed in liquid, all the heat they produce is absorbed by that liquid. So it then comes down to the cost of electricity vs the cost of an equivalent amount of energy in the form of propane. I have to think that it's no more costly the use electricity, and may be cheaper. I'm 65 year old, and at the moment can still handle brewing on my three kettle system, using Northern Brewer's Center of Gravity brewstand. I am seriously considering converting the electric, and going with the Breweasy in the process.

 

[MrEggSandwich]

I wanted to see what everyone though of their BrewEasy setup. If you were starting from scratch would you still go this route? I'm limited on storage space but have the ability to have 240 and this setup seems to be more compact that a 3 vessel system.

Agree with previous 2 posters...I'm still trying to get decent efficiency (I would be fine with 65%)...I'm still working on that. As stated, there is a learning curve.

That being said, I'm making very good beer, less to cleanup....Not sure a 3 vessel system would ever make sense for me.

(I have the 240V 10 gallon)....Electric is the way to go. Just had a buddy make me a tile backspash for mine!

 

[popquizkid]

Agree with previous 2 posters...I'm still trying to get decent efficiency (I would be fine with 65%)...I'm still working on that. As stated, there is a learning curve.

That being said, I'm making very good beer, less to cleanup....Not sure a 3 vessel system would ever make sense for me.

(I have the 240V 10 gallon)....Electric is the way to go. Just had a buddy make me a tile backspash for mine!

Curious about you range exhaust hood that you are using...how well does it work? What is the brand / model?

 

[MrEggSandwich]

http://https://www.wayfair.com/AKDY-36-400-CFM-Convertible-Wall-Mount-Range-Hood-AKDY1014.html

Curious about you range exhaust hood that you are using...how well does it work? What is the brand / model?

 

[MrEggSandwich]

Let's try this again:

AKDY 36" 760 CFM Convertible Wall Mount Range Hood in Silver
(GVBI36S)

Bought it on WayFair for $182. Suits my needs just fine...Fan is powerful, LED lights which help over the BK...Even has a timer, which I use as my boil timer.

 

[Gustatorian]

Does anyone have issues with their auto-sparge generating bubbles? A quick troubleshoot shows me that the auto-sparge is the source of the issue. I assume it has to do with turbulence of the wort traveling through, but I'm not sure how to amend it. Any solutions?

 

[Fabrizio]

Does anyone have issues with their auto-sparge generating bubbles? A quick troubleshoot shows me that the auto-sparge is the source of the issue. I assume it has to do with turbulence of the wort traveling through, but I'm not sure how to amend it. Any solutions?

first thought: it seems like there's not really a seal around the piston/valve for the sparge-arm/float assembly. while I usually get a lot of "spitting" out of that piston, there might be airflow inward too...

You've obviously checked for a loose hose somewhere...

Possibly you're getting cavitation of some sort that's pulling dissolved gasses out of solution. The flow rate shouldn't be _that_ high through the relatively tight angles in the mainifold/valve assembly in the autosparge to cause that though.

Does it happen mostly when it's actively heating?, or fairly constant?

Could also just be that there is some air bubbles in the BK due to the flow of the wort into the lower kettle, which are getting sucked back through.

Simplest answer is usually the right one... but who knows...

Other than being a nagging unknown, do the bubbles seem to have any effect on your mash?

 

[Gustatorian]

first thought: it seems like there's not really a seal around the piston/valve for the sparge-arm/float assembly. while I usually get a lot of "spitting" out of that piston, there might be airflow inward too...

You've obviously checked for a loose hose somewhere...

Possibly you're getting cavitation of some sort that's pulling dissolved gasses out of solution. The flow rate shouldn't be _that_ high through the relatively tight angles in the mainifold/valve assembly in the autosparge to cause that though.

Does it happen mostly when it's actively heating?, or fairly constant?

Could also just be that there is some air bubbles in the BK due to the flow of the wort into the lower kettle, which are getting sucked back through.

Simplest answer is usually the right one... but who knows...

Other than being a nagging unknown, do the bubbles seem to have any effect on your mash?

I haven't noticed a pattern of when it happens and when it doesn't but I usually notice it first when I initially start my circulation. I assume it isn't airflow from the piston due small amount of water/wort getting pushed out from there, but it is a more likely culprit due to that I'm ONLY seeing the bubbles post auto-sparge in the tubing (I don't see it in the silicone tubes before the auto-sparge or the ToP sight glass/flowmeter, that's why I don't think the source is the BK)

I assume is could be due to my flow rate? Per the ToP gauge, I'm running a little over 1.0 GPM.

It is a nagging unknown, but I'd like to minimize any turbulence within the MLT, as I'm trying to decrease the amount of hot side aeration.

 

[R_Horn]

How about a video next brew?

 

[Fabrizio]

I haven't noticed a pattern of when it happens and when it doesn't but I usually notice it first when I initially start my circulation. I assume it isn't airflow from the piston due small amount of water/wort getting pushed out from there, but it is a more likely culprit due to that I'm ONLY seeing the bubbles post auto-sparge in the tubing (I don't see it in the silicone tubes before the auto-sparge or the ToP sight glass/flowmeter, that's why I don't think the source is the BK)

I assume is could be due to my flow rate? Per the ToP gauge, I'm running a little over 1.0 GPM.

It is a nagging unknown, but I'd like to minimize any turbulence within the MLT, as I'm trying to decrease the amount of hot side aeration.

Agree with R_Horn, how about a video next brew...?



So, thinking out-loud:
a.) only in the last 8 inches of tubing after the autosparge
b.) mostly in the beginning when you first start your recirculation (purging air from hoses?... seen brews where the air never fully purges from the hoses unless I tilt/mess with them a lot during recirc, as the flow rates are not high-enough to push 100% of the smaller bubbles out quickly.
c.) it's a small stream or individual air bubbles, not significant volume of "aeration" as if with a stone...?

IF that's the case, (and I'm one to be anal about things like this), then it's probably not going to effect your beer in any detectable way.

"Turbulence" is relative... if it's "burping" significant air bubbles out the sparge hose... then that would be inexplicably disturbing.

Besides, I can't find the reference right now, but hasn't there been a long-standing debate on the actual/detectable effects of hot-side aeration at homebrew volumes & processes? Thought it had to be rather significant before it really effected anything worth worrying about ... such as pouring the full volume of wort between containers while hot...
Do I misunderstand perhaps?

 

[Gustatorian]

Agree with R_Horn, how about a video next brew...?



So, thinking out-loud:
a.) only in the last 8 inches of tubing after the autosparge
b.) mostly in the beginning when you first start your recirculation (purging air from hoses?... seen brews where the air never fully purges from the hoses unless I tilt/mess with them a lot during recirc, as the flow rates are not high-enough to push 100% of the smaller bubbles out quickly.
c.) it's a small stream or individual air bubbles, not significant volume of "aeration" as if with a stone...?

IF that's the case, (and I'm one to be anal about things like this), then it's probably not going to effect your beer in any detectable way.

"Turbulence" is relative... if it's "burping" significant air bubbles out the sparge hose... then that would be inexplicably disturbing.

Besides, I can't find the reference right now, but hasn't there been a long-standing debate on the actual/detectable effects of hot-side aeration at homebrew volumes & processes? Thought it had to be rather significant before it really effected anything worth worrying about ... such as pouring the full volume of wort between containers while hot...
Do I misunderstand perhaps?

Brewing next week, so I'll post a video. It usually occurs when I'm filling the MLT after heating the full amount of water in the BK.

a) It may be coming from something before the auto-sparge (maybe smaller bubbles that coalesce into larger bubbles once they hit the auto-sparge?)

b) It doesn't feel like an air purge due to the extended time I see the bubbles present. However, I have noticed that the bubbles to decrease if I manually keep the piston open while initially filling the MLT.

c) It's enough to create a small amount of bubbles in the corner of my wort

I don't think it's affecting my beer in a detectable way, but I want to be totally sure. Not sure if HSA affects beer on such a small scale, but based on the science I've read about it, it makes sense to minimize oxygen ingress on the hot side. No clue if this is shows results in vivo, but on paper it makes sense.

 

[KevG]

I wanted to ask if any Breweasy owners have encountered problems with regard to GFCI breakers tripping when connecting a Riptide pump via the Tower of Power LTE. I am able to heat up water in the brew kettle but as soon as I turn on the control module, with pump connected to the ToP, the breaker for the control panel trips. The strange thing is, the breaker trips even when the ToP is plugged in to another circuit, whereas everything is fine if the pump is plugged into an outlet directly. I thought perhaps it was user error, but Blichmann said they've heard of strange issues like mine but couldn't elaborate, so before I call the electrician I thought this was the best place to hear of strange issues....many thanks for any suggestions.

Edit: I should add that this is a 10 gallon, 240V version. I have a 30a breaker for the control panel/boil coil.

 

[R_Horn]

no GFCI issues all
however I have no experience with the riptide

 

[strangr419]

For those who use the propane/gas BE, has anyone encountered issues with the ignition continuing to cycle after the burner fires on? What happens to me is I will flip the switch on the tower of power (to either on or auto), the ignition will go on (igniter sparks repeatedly) the solenoid opens and the burner lights/fires but the igniter continues sparking. The ToP will then shut the whole thing down, burner turns off as solenoid shuts the gas off. Then I have to go back to the tower of power and shut it off then restart the process until it stops doing this.
Also, I have gone through two ignition cables now. Both of my cables have broken on the tower of power side. This part seems to be extremely brittle. I just ordered a replacement (my third) today. Blichmann needs to make this part more sturdy in my opinion. The connection from the cable to what appears to be some sort of a resistor to the connector part breaks way too easily.
Thoughts?

 

[Gustatorian]

A couple questions:

Does anyone have value for the amount of volume for the boilcoil in a 20 gallon boilermaker? I was once told approximately 10 ounces but I'm reluctant to believe that (I think it's more). Any way to test this?

Also, does anyone know the actual amount of DeadSpace under the false bottom of 15G MLT Boilermaker? I measure .125 G, but I'd be curious if anyone has measured something different...

 

[Dcpcooks]

All those specs are on the blichmann site.

 

[MrEggSandwich]

A couple questions:

Does anyone have value for the amount of volume for the boilcoil in a 20 gallon boilermaker? I was once told approximately 10 ounces but I'm reluctant to believe that (I think it's more). Any way to test this?

Also, does anyone know the actual amount of DeadSpace under the false bottom of 15G MLT Boilermaker? I measure .125 G, but I'd be curious if anyone has measured something different...

You need 5 gallons to cover the boilcoil in 20 gallon boilermaker.

 

[Gustatorian]

You need 5 gallons to cover the boilcoil in 20 gallon boilermaker.

I know the coverage. I'm asking for the actual volume of the coil (amount of space it takes up, to deduct it from what I'm reading from the glass gauge on the side of the vessel.

Looks like the website says it's 10 oz in a 20G boilermaker. Still have trouble believing that. Also states that the MLT deadspace on a 15G boilermaker is .17G. When I test it, it's .125G...

 

[Bender]

Can anybody tell me what the height of a 10 gal electric system is (for purposes of argument assume it's resting on the floor).

 

[Jim_B]

Can anybody tell me what the height of a 10 gal electric system is (for purposes of argument assume it's resting on the floor).

Bender - From the floor to the highest point, the handle on the lid of the top kettle, it is 44 inches.

Jim

 

[Bender]

Bender - From the floor to the highest point, the handle on the lid of the top kettle, it is 44 inches.

Jim

Thanks.

 

[DarkNoonBrewer]

I know the coverage. I'm asking for the actual volume of the coil (amount of space it takes up, to deduct it from what I'm reading from the glass gauge on the side of the vessel.

Looks like the website says it's 10 oz in a 20G boilermaker. Still have trouble believing that. Also states that the MLT deadspace on a 15G boilermaker is .17G. When I test it, it's .125G...

This is on the website. Why the disbelief? Its just like in class: show your work! hahaha did you calculate something different?

This is the link to the data on the boil coil:

http://www.blichmannengineering.com/products/boilcoil

It also has this note here probably telling us not to be concerned with such small measurements of water:

For reference the water volume increases by 4% as temperature goes from 70°F to 212°F.

 

[Gustatorian]

This is on the website. Why the disbelief? Its just like in class: show your work! hahaha did you calculate something different?

This is the link to the data on the boil coil:

http://www.blichmannengineering.com/products/boilcoil

It also has this note here probably telling us not to be concerned with such small measurements of water:

For reference the water volume increases by 4% as temperature goes from 70°F to 212°F.

I tested by by filling the MLT with a gallon of RO water, draining without tipping, then weighing the remaining water in the MLT and converting it to volume. Have done it multiple times - always comes out to .125

 

[mhermetz]

I made my own Brew Easy. Simple stuff. Even the manual flow adjustments are not that bad. Sure I can't set it and leave the room but it cost me only $65 for a new kettle (mash tun) to be set.