Blichmann BrewEasy

[scullerkurt]

See post 762, and the posts that follow. Yup, done it, higher efficiencies because you wash the grains.

 

[psymonkey]

See post 762, and the posts that follow. Yup, done it, higher efficiencies because you wash the grains.

Haha - two pages ago no less! I'm looking forward to trying it.

 

[MrEggSandwich]

I have 240V 10 gallon system. Wanted to get my profile/settings correct, using Brewer's Friend.

Assuming BIAB, but was wondering about boil off rate, efficiency, etc.

Any help is appreciated!

Ken

 

[Gustatorian]

@skullerkurt , any recs on how you mounted the RIMS Rocket mounting bracket onto you ToP? I'm not tool savvy whatsoever, so anything helps (drill bits, where you drilled, which holes on the mounting bracket you used) Any detail is helpful, thanks!

 

[scullerkurt]

It's been awhile, but I think I used the hardware included with the RIMS rocket. If not, they are carriage bolts...3/8" by 1/2" long or so should do. You unscrew the back cover, drill holes (I used a drill bit that has a very sharp point to keep it from "walking" while drilling). Here is a close up pic, it's a pretty easy install.

 

[abiddle]

Has anyone else had issues with the temp sensor or cable? My cable was DOA (TOP module read "NO CONT") last year when I received my system, and just now tried to boot it up for cleaning and had the same "NO CONT" message on my TOP module. Have a new cable and sensor in the mail from Blichmann, but I'm tired of having this issue...If I have to replace the stupid cable twice a year, that's a no go...

I had this issue for the first time this morning, I was planning a double brew day. I don't see an issue with the cable or the temp sensor, so I don't know which one is the issue - I guess I have to buy both? Did they make any suggestions on how to this happens, what to avoid?

 

[Dcpcooks]

I just had that problem on a gen 1 tower of power. The old cable/sensor was a one piece welded connection with shrink wrap. I'm not sure what failed. I had to specify I had the gen 1 set up and it took a bit of back and forth with my lhbs and blichmann before they sent the correct replacement parts. I ordered two of each just to have a spare. Gen 1 was a 3pin and gen2 is a 4 pin connector.

The new cable has a much better spring loaded connector at the sensor assembly. I unplug mine now after a brew day and treat it like a Delicate little flower.

I'm just using it to control a HERMS coil in my gas HLT so I just went old school and did a single infusion mash. I think your screwed if your electric . I was able to get a little connection from time to time but I just went manual on the burner and used a thermometer to manage temps until the parts came. I see a long brew day in your future... Mug

 

[jmitchell3]

I had this issue for the first time this morning, I was planning a double brew day. I don't see an issue with the cable or the temp sensor, so I don't know which one is the issue - I guess I have to buy both? Did they make any suggestions on how to this happens, what to avoid?

It was the cable both times for me. If you unscrew the ends and inspect the connections that would yield more info. When i inspected mine one end's soldered connections had come loose.

 

[strangr419]

I brewed this weekend and had an issue with the ToP (tower of power) and think it may be related to the solenoid but curious as to whether anyone has had this issue and thoughts, suggestions, etc. So, the mash was 100% normal, ToP was set to Auto @ 160 degrees and shut the gas off and on as needed, worked like a charm. However, when I started my boil and switched the ToP to "on" (instaed of "auto" which it was set to during mash) the gas kept turning off by itself, which it has never done. I recently changed the cable too, as someone yanked it out at my last brewday and broke it. It's a brand new cable, first use. I'm wondering if the new cable is the culprit or if it was a gas leak or what??? Why would it turn itself off while set to "on" during the boil, it should just be a constant flow of propane (which I'll control with the red knob at the tank itself)? Thoughts?

 

[Stouterson]

I wanted to share that by far the best upgrade I've made with my system is outfitting the Blichmann kettles, pump, autoparge, and therminator with 1/2 inch quick disconnects.

6ft and 3.5 ft silicon hoses seem to be the best length for my 20 gallon system.

http://www.love2brew.com/Quick-Disconnect-1-2-Female-x-1-2-Barb-p/fit018c.htm

http://www.love2brew.com/Quick-Disconnect-1-2-Male-x-1-2-FPT-Female-p/fit018b.htm

 

[jmitchell3]

Has anyone built a custom TOP stand? I was thinking of doing a stainless four castor stand for my TOP, morebeer CFC, and pump.

 

[strangr419]

I wanted to share that by far the best upgrade I've made with my system is outfitting the Blichmann kettles, pump, autoparge, and therminator with 1/2 inch quick disconnects.

6ft and 3.5 ft silicon hoses seem to be the best length for my 20 gallon system.

http://www.love2brew.com/Quick-Disconnect-1-2-Female-x-1-2-Barb-p/fit018c.htm

http://www.love2brew.com/Quick-Disconnect-1-2-Male-x-1-2-FPT-Female-p/fit018b.htm

How many of each did you purchase? What exactly did you buy? I've been wanting to make this upgrade for a while now. Cheers!

 

[strangr419]

I wanted to share that by far the best upgrade I've made with my system is outfitting the Blichmann kettles, pump, autoparge, and therminator with 1/2 inch quick disconnects.

6ft and 3.5 ft silicon hoses seem to be the best length for my 20 gallon system.

http://www.love2brew.com/Quick-Disconnect-1-2-Female-x-1-2-Barb-p/fit018c.htm

http://www.love2brew.com/Quick-Disconnect-1-2-Male-x-1-2-FPT-Female-p/fit018b.htm

Stouterson,
What exactly did you buy? How many of each in order to cover it all? I've been wanting to make is upgrade for a while now but haven't been able to determine which quick disconnects are best. Cheers!

 

[Fabrizio]

Stouterson,
What exactly did you buy? How many of each in order to cover it all? I've been wanting to make is upgrade for a while now but haven't been able to determine which quick disconnects are best. Cheers!

I've been happy with camlocks. They seem to have a wider inner diameter if that counts for anything.

 

[Gustatorian]

I wanted to share that by far the best upgrade I've made with my system is outfitting the Blichmann kettles, pump, autoparge, and therminator with 1/2 inch quick disconnects.

6ft and 3.5 ft silicon hoses seem to be the best length for my 20 gallon system.

http://www.love2brew.com/Quick-Disconnect-1-2-Female-x-1-2-Barb-p/fit018c.htm

http://www.love2brew.com/Quick-Disconnect-1-2-Male-x-1-2-FPT-Female-p/fit018b.htm

You had to use thread sealing tape around them, correct?

 

[Gustatorian]

How do you guys clean your system?

I've been removing the boilcoil from the BK, then cleaning both separately. Then I reassemble and pump hot pbw through my system...then water...then sanitizer. This is obviously really time-consuming and inefficient.


I've heard of people transferring the beer out of the BK then simply throwing in some water+pbw and letting it run, but I can't imagine the pbw removing any of the trub material stuck to the boilcoil. Also, once it's removed from the coil, it's cycling through the system. Obviously some of that is going to get stuck to the sides of the BK when removing the liquid.

If anyone could shed some light on cleaning the system more efficiently, I'm all ears.

 

[scullerkurt]

I do the same, it is slow. I'm also interested in hearing what others do.

 

[jmitchell3]

How do you guys clean your system?

I've been removing the boilcoil from the BK, then cleaning both separately. Then I reassemble and pump hot pbw through my system...then water...then sanitizer. This is obviously really time-consuming and inefficient.


I've heard of people transferring the beer out of the BK then simply throwing in some water+pbw and letting it run, but I can't imagine the pbw removing any of the trub material stuck to the boilcoil. Also, once it's removed from the coil, it's cycling through the system. Obviously some of that is going to get stuck to the sides of the BK when removing the liquid.

If anyone could shed some light on cleaning the system more efficiently, I'm all ears.

In my 5 gal system, i use a half cup of pbw in a full kettle of water, turn on the pump and coil and run it for 1-2 hours at 180F then let it sit overnight. Cleans it right up. Try it...it works!

 

[hmattar]

Has anyone else had issues with the temp sensor or cable? My cable was DOA (TOP module read "NO CONT") last year when I received my system, and just now tried to boot it up for cleaning and had the same "NO CONT" message on my TOP module. Have a new cable and sensor in the mail from Blichmann, but I'm tired of having this issue...If I have to replace the stupid cable twice a year, that's a no go...

EDIT: After having the NO CONT PROBLEM , bought 2 new cable and 1 temp probe. Out of the 2 new cables, just one worked.
Opened up the new cable with problem and my old cable, both had bad soldering on them. Did not expect that lack of product quality.

 

[MrEggSandwich]

Had test run #2 with plain water this evening on my 240V 10 gallon BE. I am new to all-grain, new to pumps, etc., so please excuse my dumb questions/paranoia in advance.

First off: Thank you Dana for the video, very helpful for a noob like me, I've watched it probably 20x.

Anyway, the plan is to have my first official brew day on the BE. I'll be doing 7 gallon batches in my 10 gallon system (basically to ensure boil coil is covered)

Random questions/concerns (any thoughts are appreciated):

-Used .5 gallon flow washer to drain into BK. Left behind too much water/wort, as the draining pretty much stopped. What am I doing wrong?

-Pump seems to take a little while to prime: I open all valves, and it struggles for a few minutes before I get a good circulation going.

-I want to ensure the BK has at least 5 gallons of liquid in order to keep boilcoil covered, still getting used to the autosparge....Haven't mashed any grain yet- What's the trick to making sure I have an even amount of liquid in top & bottom? ( I basically to 7 gallon batches so I use 10+ gallons of water)

-Boilcoil: Is there a way to turn the heat off? (I know I could turn temp setting down), but I was under impression that "reset" setting turned off the heat, is that not the case? DO I just turn my temp setting down? I accidentally ran it dry as I was watching my BK drain.

-Boilcoil #2: I got 10 gallons of water to a little boil, but haven't got a big, rolling boil yet (Had it set to 220 @ 99%). Thinking maybe because it's just plain water?

-Brewometers are useless during a 7 gallon batch on 10 gallon system, neither level is high enough to get a reading.

-Gotta get quick disconnects. The Therminator having 2x male ends for water hoses caught my by surprise.

-When chilling, I am leaving behind a few gallons behind in BK and chiller (too much)...Once again, the pump was running, but it didn't seem like the Bk was draining, and nothing was going into fermentor. I was able to get 6.5 gallons into fermentor, but still leaving too much liquid behind. Was impressed with the Therminator. Why is the flow stopping?

Overall, I am gaining more confidence, but leaving too much liquid behind/spilling it, still getting the hang of the tower of power and boil.

Fair to say there is a learning curve?

 

[jmitchell3]

EDIT: After having the NO CONT PROBLEM , bought 2 new cable and 1 temp probe. Out of the 2 new cables, just one worked.
Opened up the new cable with problem and my old cable, both had bad soldering on them. Did not expect that lack of product quality.

Yeah the cable is very poorly designed. With heavy duty cables everywhere else on my 240v system this thing is a dainty PITA!

 

[jmitchell3]

Had test run #2 with plain water this evening on my 240V 10 gallon BE. I am new to all-grain, new to pumps, etc., so please excuse my dumb questions/paranoia in advance.

First off: Thank you Dana for the video, very helpful for a noob like me, I've watched it probably 20x.

Anyway, the plan is to have my first official brew day on the BE. I'll be doing 7 gallon batches in my 10 gallon system (basically to ensure boil coil is covered)

Random questions/concerns (any thoughts are appreciated):

-Used .5 gallon flow washer to drain into BK. Left behind too much water/wort, as the draining pretty much stopped. What am I doing wrong?

-Pump seems to take a little while to prime: I open all valves, and it struggles for a few minutes before I get a good circulation going.

-I want to ensure the BK has at least 5 gallons of liquid in order to keep boilcoil covered, still getting used to the autosparge....Haven't mashed any grain yet- What's the trick to making sure I have an even amount of liquid in top & bottom? ( I basically to 7 gallon batches so I use 10+ gallons of water)

-Boilcoil: Is there a way to turn the heat off? (I know I could turn temp setting down), but I was under impression that "reset" setting turned off the heat, is that not the case? DO I just turn my temp setting down? I accidentally ran it dry as I was watching my BK drain.

-Boilcoil #2: I got 10 gallons of water to a little boil, but haven't got a big, rolling boil yet (Had it set to 220 @ 99%). Thinking maybe because it's just plain water?

-Brewometers are useless during a 7 gallon batch on 10 gallon system, neither level is high enough to get a reading.

-Gotta get quick disconnects. The Therminator having 2x male ends for water hoses caught my by surprise.

-When chilling, I am leaving behind a few gallons behind in BK and chiller (too much)...Once again, the pump was running, but it didn't seem like the Bk was draining, and nothing was going into fermentor. I was able to get 6.5 gallons into fermentor, but still leaving too much liquid behind. Was impressed with the Therminator. Why is the flow stopping?

Overall, I am gaining more confidence, but leaving too much liquid behind/spilling it, still getting the hang of the tower of power and boil.

Fair to say there is a learning curve?

Yeah, definitely a bit of a learning curve. Glad you found Dana's videos. He's been a pioneer on this system. Background: I've got the 5 gal system, but principles should be the same.

1. The size orifice you use for draining after the mash should have zero effect on how much is left in the mash tun. Blichmann publishes dead space numbers for the kettles ( for the 15 gal kettle, .17 gallons). My mash tun is the 7.5 gal kettle, published as .1 gal dead space. This being said, I know I have at least a pint (.12 gal) left after the mash. You can start maybe at 1 qt. in your planning and adjust as you see fit and gain system experience.

2. I recently replaced my silicon tubing, but it was too long. Longer silicon has higher resistance and lower flow rate, thus if the tube between the kettle and pump is too long it'll be hard to prime. Also, and more importantly, I've found that if the pump output valve is closed and the kettle valve is closed, open the kettle valve first (blichmann says 3 full rotations of the laminar flow value will have it full-open), then open the pump valve. The pressure from the kettle should then push any air in the line between the kettle and pump right out. Then turn on the pump. This has worked for me when I mess up the ordering and get air trapped in the line. Let me know if it works for you.

3. I typically just fill my mash tun with enough water for the mash. So 1-1.5 qt / lb of grist. (at 1.25 qt/lb ona 12 lb grist batch, that'd be 3.75 gallons in the mash tun). I'm usually between 3-4 gallons of water prior to dough in, with another 4-5 in the mash tun (need at least 3.5 gallons in my 10 gal kettle to cover the boil coil), so usually this is not a problem. If you're doing smaller batches, you can also try mashing with a lower water/grist ratio (1 qt / lb for instance). That should help consistently keep your boil coil in good shape. Also, setting the autosparge properly for this target volume after dough-in helps!

4. Yes, the "Reset" position on the TOP module turns off the boil-coil completely. The green heat light on the PID will still indicate on, but with the switch in the "Reset" position, the element will not fire.

5. You should have no problem getting to a boil. What is the amperage on your 240v outlet?

6. As for chilling (again), you may have gotten a clog in your chiller. Be careful to follow blichmann's instructions for chiller cleaning, and also be mindful of how you are filtering your hop material in the kettle. Are you using any kind of hop or kettle strainer?

Cheers!

Jeremy

 

[Gustatorian]

In my 5 gal system, i use a half cup of pbw in a full kettle of water, turn on the pump and coil and run it for 1-2 hours at 180F then let it sit overnight. Cleans it right up. Try it...it works!

I could see how this would clean off the boilcoil (time + heat seem to be the solution), but you still have all of that particulate flowing through the system. How do you remove your PBW solution without all of the particulate getting stuck to the sides of the vessels?

 

[Gustatorian]

Has anyone used a BIAB bag for their mash tun before? I just drop the grains straight into the vessel, but I'm wondering if there is a way to work a bag into the system for easier clean-up...

 

[MrEggSandwich]

Yeah, definitely a bit of a learning curve. Glad you found Dana's videos. He's been a pioneer on this system. Background: I've got the 5 gal system, but principles should be the same.

1. The size orifice you use for draining after the mash should have zero effect on how much is left in the mash tun. Blichmann publishes dead space numbers for the kettles ( for the 15 gal kettle, .17 gallons). My mash tun is the 7.5 gal kettle, published as .1 gal dead space. This being said, I know I have at least a pint (.12 gal) left after the mash. You can start maybe at 1 qt. in your planning and adjust as you see fit and gain system experience.

2. I recently replaced my silicon tubing, but it was too long. Longer silicon has higher resistance and lower flow rate, thus if the tube between the kettle and pump is too long it'll be hard to prime. Also, and more importantly, I've found that if the pump output valve is closed and the kettle valve is closed, open the kettle valve first (blichmann says 3 full rotations of the laminar flow value will have it full-open), then open the pump valve. The pressure from the kettle should then push any air in the line between the kettle and pump right out. Then turn on the pump. This has worked for me when I mess up the ordering and get air trapped in the line. Let me know if it works for you.

3. I typically just fill my mash tun with enough water for the mash. So 1-1.5 qt / lb of grist. (at 1.25 qt/lb ona 12 lb grist batch, that'd be 3.75 gallons in the mash tun). I'm usually between 3-4 gallons of water prior to dough in, with another 4-5 in the mash tun (need at least 3.5 gallons in my 10 gal kettle to cover the boil coil), so usually this is not a problem. If you're doing smaller batches, you can also try mashing with a lower water/grist ratio (1 qt / lb for instance). That should help consistently keep your boil coil in good shape. Also, setting the autosparge properly for this target volume after dough-in helps!

4. Yes, the "Reset" position on the TOP module turns off the boil-coil completely. The green heat light on the PID will still indicate on, but with the switch in the "Reset" position, the element will not fire.

5. You should have no problem getting to a boil. What is the amperage on your 240v outlet?

6. As for chilling (again), you may have gotten a clog in your chiller. Be careful to follow blichmann's instructions for chiller cleaning, and also be mindful of how you are filtering your hop material in the kettle. Are you using any kind of hop or kettle strainer?

Cheers!

Jeremy

Jeremy: Thanks very much. Good stuff.

Gonna jump in and brew Sunday.

#1- This was just water, and the drain just seemed to come to a halt. Could just need to get used to equipment.


#4- Ah, got it. Thanks. The light staying on had me confused.

#5- I have a 230V outlet with 30 amp breaker. Don't get me wrong, it heats very nicely, and boils. Didn't get big, rolling boil.

#6- This was a run with just water. I think hose was too long, and I got a good amount into fermentor. I have the hopblocker installed, and plan to use hop bags.

Thanks again!

 

[user 190343]

Has anyone used a BIAB bag for their mash tun before? I just drop the grains straight into the vessel, but I'm wondering if there is a way to work a bag into the system for easier clean-up...

I tried mash in a bag with about 4 batches when first using my BE, but once I tried it normally, I think it's a push on cleanup. I figured I'd just use it normally from then on and cleanup is not that bad. I discussed this with John Blichmann at the BNA11 party and he didn't feel that'd be any better than normal.

 

[ducati]

I have the 5 gallon electric BE.

I was also concerned about inadvertently dropping the level below the heating coil. The level column works well but I needed a bigger visual impact to alert the level is too low. On the boil kettle, blue painter's tape was applied next to the level column at the heating coil level and at the temperature measurement level. The mash kettle got the same tape at the temperature probe level.

So I can monitor that the level is "OK" quickly and from a distance.

 

[jmitchell3]

I could see how this would clean off the boilcoil (time + heat seem to be the solution), but you still have all of that particulate flowing through the system. How do you remove your PBW solution without all of the particulate getting stuck to the sides of the vessels?

I just pump it out and down the drain. I use a brush or rag to wipe down the kettle as it drains, then fill it with clean water and run that out to rinse everything. Then if there's any particulate left in the kettle, I just rinse. Usually there isn't anything left at that point.

 

[jmitchell3]

Jeremy: Thanks very much. Good stuff.

Gonna jump in and brew Sunday.

#1- This was just water, and the drain just seemed to come to a halt. Could just need to get used to equipment.


#4- Ah, got it. Thanks. The light staying on had me confused.

#5- I have a 230V outlet with 30 amp breaker. Don't get me wrong, it heats very nicely, and boils. Didn't get big, rolling boil.

#6- This was a run with just water. I think hose was too long, and I got a good amount into fermentor. I have the hopblocker installed, and plan to use hop bags.

Thanks again!

Huh. 30 amps should be plenty to run that coil to a vigorous boil. I'd be in touch with Blichmann on that if you haven't already.

Remember the hop blocker requires a post-boil whirlpool to be effective prior to draining...see recommended process on the "features" tab here: http://www.blichmannengineering.com/products/hopblocker

I didn't use to whirlpool but have lately, even after I unstalled the hop blocker! I may reinstall it now and see how it works with the recommended whirlpool.

Cheers!

 

[user 190343]

I have the hop blocker too and have to say, it works much better than I thought it would than from just looking at it. I recently installed a recirculator arm. https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/spincycle.htm I had to drill a hole in my larger boilermaker kettle, which was very nerve wrecking, but turned out much easier than I thought.

I also used a hop spider with with the BE and think the hop blocker with the recirc arm is much easier and that was with 9oz of hops for a 5gal batch between boil and whirlpool hops.