Blichmann BrewEasy

[Hex23]

Sorry about that, I was busy at sea while at work when I made my speedy reply.

I had taken my sparge arm with me when I picked up the threaded stock and asked for 1/4 inch as I handed him the arm but the helpful hand at the store never corrected me as I miss spoke, he passed me the correct metric threaded stock, I thanked him and walked away. I apologize and will edit my original post giving you credit.

Not a problem at all. I hate to admit it, but I practically live in that store and return all kinds of things. I had also seen others refer to using a 1/4" threaded rod for the AS, so I figured I'd just take a chance that there were multiple versions. Ended up getting M6x1 rod at Grainger since I only live 5 miles away and can pick it up there w/o paying shipping.

 

[chewymatingcall]

Has anyone built the Breweasy starting piecemeal and started by adding the Tower of Power to their current system?

 

[Want2BS8ed]

Has anyone built the Breweasy starting piecemeal and started by adding the Tower of Power to their current system?

I basically did. I started with a Blichmann burner, purchased the full-TOP and was doing 5-gallon recirculating BIAB batches in a Bayou Classics pot with perforated basket.

I purchased the pots and BrewEasy conversion when I moved up to 10-gallon batches.

Anything specific you need to know?

M

 

[samandbekah]

I basically did. I started with a Blichmann burner, purchased the full-TOP and was doing 5-gallon recirculating BIAB batches in a Bayou Classics pot with perforated basket.

I purchased the pots and BrewEasy conversion when I moved up to 10-gallon batches.

Anything specific you need to know?

M

I think it would be good to provide some pricing...

I have the blichmann burner already and I had starting pricing it out piece by piece... When I did so it ended up being a better deal buying the breweasy turnkey system.

I priced it out for the 20 gallon equivalent

 

[chewymatingcall]

I currently run a 10 gallon setup using a 100qt cooler and 15 gallon pot. Was there anything missing that you needed to buy when you upgraded? How much time do you save with the BrewEasy? Does draining the kettle slowly help increase efficiency once you are done with the mash or does the recirculation make that irrelevant?

 

[Danam404]

Hi Guys.... Long time no post!

I spoke with John Blichmann yesterday on the phone. He read a review I posted online where I voiced some customer service concerns, and contacted Great Fermentations for my info. I will say he's a very nice guy, and was apologetic for the ridiculous 1.5 year dog and pony show that was the BrewEasy release... sounds like they got hosed by their suppliers, and over-promised to the customers. Doesn't fix the ringer that I was put thru as a paying customer, but they are making an attempt to be better... they've cleaned house a bit in their customer service dept.

Anyway, aside from the 45 minute conversation we had about customer service, we had a few minutes to chat about the system, which is way more interesting...


Some highlights:

-He said that it is normal to have to offset your controller temp a few degrees for system loss based on your setup. He says he always adds 2.7 degrees to the controller to keep the temp he wants in the mash tun

-As far as efficiency, its extremely important to have around 100 PPM of Ca in your water, as the BrewEasy will buffer over twice as much as a normal system

-My method I outlined several pages back, where I overshoot my target temp during ramp up, and then back it down when I reach temp, is an acceptable way to speed up ramping and shave time off the brew day.

-Always make sure to reference your brewmometer and make sure your mash tun is up to temperature before starting the clock on mash time... the "let the controller stabilize at 152 and trust it" is not the way to go

-Rake the top of your grain bed every 10 minutes, especially when ramping, helps speed up the process... says the grain tends to insulate the brewmometer so if you don't move it around you may be getting false readings

-slow the flow rate when draining into the brew kettle, can pick up a few efficiency points this way



Also look for some new products coming out from them, said they've got a bunch of stuff up their sleeve but are going "full apple" on product releases because of what happen with the BrewEasy. Sounds like they are trying to get better with their customer service, and will also be better about making youtube videos, demonstrating the best ways to use their products.

Hope this helps!

 

[Want2BS8ed]

Danam404,

Awesome input! Will definitely put those into practice on my next batch.

Thanks for taking the time to share from your conversation with John.

M

 

[Nuclearlavatory]

Hello, I’ve been considering the 10 gal electric system. I like that I have the ability to easily integrate the majority of the components into a three vessel RIMS system down the road if I so choose. However, I am concerned with the flexibility of the system in producing different beers. I am limited to 5 gallon batches on my current cooler batch sparge set up. There have quite a few times where I wished I had brewed 10 gallons at a time. But, I also have never thought that about high gravity beers 1.08 and up.

I would like to know from those who own the system, what the batch/gravity limits are. What is the lightest gravity I can go at a 5 gallon batch size on the 10 gal BrewEasy system? What is the heaviest 10 gal batch I can brew on that system? From what I understand the 20 gal BK used on the 10 gal BrewEasy, a 5 gal min must be used for boil (not a problem considering trub losses would drive a higher than 5 gal boil for a 5 gal batch). But, when I’m doing a light beer at 5 gallons and the total water is split between the MT and BK, what is the minimum gravity I can brew and still achieve the minimum volume in the BK (which during the mash is the RIMs heater)?

Hope that makes sense.

 

[Hex23]

But, when I’m doing a light beer at 5 gallons and the total water is split between the MT and BK, what is the minimum gravity I can brew and still achieve the minimum volume in the BK (which during the mash is the RIMs heater)?

Hope that makes sense.

This probably seems counterintuitive, but your limitations around volume balancing are going to be due to higher gravity beers. I realize that the mash thickness in the MT is not really to be considered in a traditional way (e.g. shooting for 1.25 qt/lb) for conversion chemistry purposes - after all, it is really a full volume/no sparge system. But for recirc/lautering/thermal considerations you don't want the mash to be too thick. So, for larger grain bills you're going to end up with more of the wort in the MT, leaving less to cover the coils (assuming your system is electric)

 

[Nuclearlavatory]

This probably seems counterintuitive, but your limitations around volume balancing are going to be due to higher gravity beers. I realize that the mash thickness in the MT is not really to be considered in a traditional way (e.g. shooting for 1.25 qt/lb) for conversion chemistry purposes - after all, it is really a full volume/no sparge system. But for recirc/lautering/thermal considerations you don't want the mash to be too thick. So, for larger grain bills you're going to end up with more of the wort in the MT, leaving less to cover the coils (assuming your system is electric)

That makes sense. I didn't effectively look at it from that angle. I was simply dividing the total water needed into two equal parts and split between the MT and BK. But, you're right doing that with some of the high gravity beers would yield a really thick mash preventing good recirculation. While if increasing the water volume in the MT, the BK wouldn't have enough volume to cover the heating element (~5 gal min).

I guess, what is the optimum grist ratio for the BrewEasy system?

 

[Hex23]

That makes sense. I didn't effectively look at it from that angle. I was simply dividing the total water needed into two equal parts and split between the MT and BK. But, you're right doing that with some of the high gravity beers would yield a really thick mash preventing good recirculation. While if increasing the water volume in the MT, the BK wouldn't have enough volume to cover the heating element (~5 gal min).

I guess, what is the optimum grist ratio for the BrewEasy system?

Can't really speak from alot of experience, but IIRC the BE manual says to keep a couple of inches of wort above the grain bed. I can't say how that translates to an MT grist ratio.

If you really got into an extreme situation I suppose you might be able to put a volume displacer in the BK. E.g a smaller pot weighted down. Another thing that would help are recipes with longer boil times.

 

[Nuclearlavatory]

Can't really speak from alot of experience, but IIRC the BE manual says to keep a couple of inches of wort above the grain bed. I can't say how that translates to an MT grist ratio.

If you really got into an extreme situation I suppose you might be able to put a volume displacer in the BK. E.g a smaller pot weighted down. Another thing that would help are recipes with longer boil times.

Fair enough.

I think I've nailed down my limits close enough to make an informed idea of what I can and can't do. Can anyone comment on what the maximum volume the MT is with the sparge arm installed on the 10 gal system (15 gal MT I think)? That'll give me an idea.

 

[gotbags-10]

Does anyone stir their MT periodically during the mash? Just wondering if it may help efficiency a little. Also if I did stir would it drag grains down to the BK because of disrupting the grain bed.

 

[Danam404]

Does anyone stir their MT periodically during the mash? Just wondering if it may help efficiency a little. Also if I did stir would it drag grains down to the BK because of disrupting the grain bed.

The manual says they recommend raking the top 1/3 of the grain bed every 10 mins during the mash. John Blichmann reiterated this on the phone last week.

So Id say yes, do it.

 

[Danam404]

Hey guys: I made a quick time-lapse video of a brew-day on the BrewEasy....


Hope some find it helpful or at least entertaining!

Just a quick time-lapse video of a brew night on my 10-Gallon Blichmann BrewEasy Electric. The boil fogged the lens up a bit during filming, so my apologies.

Link: [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PqiQ--VzzaA[/ame]

Stats:

Date: 2/13/2015
Batch Size: 15 Gallons
Style: Belgian White Ale
Total Water Volume: 20 Gallons
Boil Time: 30 Min
Grain Bill: 30.75 lbs
OG: 1.052
FG: 1.012
Efficiency: 76%
IBU: 9.28
ABV: 5.11%

 

[dooman333]

^^^^this guy is awesome.

 

[sfrisby]

^^^^this guy is awesome.

So you got the video to play?

 

[dooman333]

Yeah.

 

[Want2BS8ed]

Hey guys: I made a quick time-lapse video of a brew-day on the BrewEasy....


Hope some find it helpful or at least entertaining!

Just a quick time-lapse video of a brew night on my 10-Gallon Blichmann BrewEasy Electric. The boil fogged the lens up a bit during filming, so my apologies.


Stats:

Date: 2/13/2015
Batch Size: 15 Gallons
Style: Belgian White Ale
Total Water Volume: 20 Gallons
Boil Time: 30 Min
Grain Bill: 30.75 lbs
OG: 1.052
FG: 1.012
Efficiency: 76%
IBU: 9.28
ABV: 5.11%

Awesome! Stopped by the local brew shop this morning and ordered a boilcoil for my 10-gallon BrewEasy... tired of being weather limited.

RE: the fogging, do you have any exhaust fan going at all?

Thanks,

M

 

[Danam404]

Awesome! Stopped by the local brew shop this morning and ordered a boilcoil for my 10-gallon BrewEasy... tired of being weather limited.

RE: the fogging, do you have any exhaust fan going at all?

Thanks,

M

nahhhh, actually i never have a fogging issue being in FL, but it just so happened I brewed on our one night of winter. Never forget....

 

[hmattar]

I'll be doing my first batch by the end of this week on my 10G Breweasy(240v)
How should I set up the temp probe?
Pump out -> T -> Valve ? With the probe in the T? Or should I put the T after the valve?

I will be using a regular T with the blichmann bushing for the probe. Should I use tape on the threads?

 

[mash-mongrel]

^^^^this guy is awesome.

I know eh! Danam404 is like my frickin idol. I love to fly and I love Florida!

[/URL][/IMG]

 

[mash-mongrel]

I'll be doing my first batch by the end of this week on my 10G Breweasy(240v)
How should I set up the temp probe?
Pump out -> T -> Valve ? With the probe in the T? Or should I put the T after the valve?

I will be using a regular T with the blichmann bushing for the probe. Should I use tape on the threads?

I ordered an electric controller a month ago, it is suppose to be here Thursday along with the boil coil element so that means I'll be brewing this weekend. Awesome.

My plan was to install the probe as you are but I want to put it before the pump in a tee because I have a throttling valve after the pump which could allow for some cavitation around the probe but that would be eliminated if I install the probe before the pump.

I do know you should use tape, here is a new term for you to Google. GALLING. Stainless threads bind and seize, tape will stop this.

 

[hmattar]

I ordered an electric controller a month ago, it is suppose to be here Thursday along with the boil coil element so that means I'll be brewing this weekend. Awesome.

My plan was to install the probe as you are but I want to put it before the pump in a tee because I have a throttling valve after the pump which could allow for some cavitation around the probe but that would be eliminated if I install the probe before the pump.

I do know you should use tape, here is a new term for you to Google. GALLING. Stainless threads bind and seize, tape will stop this.

Hey Mate!
I use tape in everything. But I read somewhere along this post that you shouldn't put tape on the temp probe.

 

[mash-mongrel]

Galling is a real problem. If any heat or binding in the threads occurs, the threads will literally weld together at any point. Any pipe thread will bind, it is engineered to do just that, bind and make a tight seal. Tape should be used on NPT fittings, stainless steel or not.


My question is why wouldn't you use tape, what hurt could it cause?

 

[hmattar]

Galling is a real problem. If any heat or binding in the threads occurs, the threads will literally weld together at any point. Any pipe thread will bind, it is engineered to do just that, bind and make a tight seal. Tape should be used on NPT fittings, stainless steel or not.


My question is why wouldn't you use tape, what hurt could it cause?

post #104 by Danam404:
"As far as the temp probe, it is not supposed to have teflon tape on it."

 

[Danam404]

post #104 by Danam404:
"As far as the temp probe, it is not supposed to have teflon tape on it."

Yep... the probe shipped with my unit was defective.. it leaked. I pulled it off and put teflon tape on it (to no avail), and was chastised by the blichmann people for putting tape on it.

But if I'm being honest, I don't think it matters one way or the other.

 

[flokason]

Dana, what is your procedure involving sanitizing the pump and therminator?

I pretty much have the exact same system.. (20G Breweasy and 26G conical) and my first brewday will most likely be next weekend


Do you just let the PBW and starsan from the conical flow through the pump and therminator when the boil has started?

All tips like this would be most appreciated. I would like my first brew to go as smootly as possible

I'm coming from a 5 gallon BIAB system with a IC, so I've never user a plate chiller before

 

[strangr419]

I'm sorry, I misread where you referenced the hop blocker and not the hop rocket.

I do not have the hop blocker and I decided against it because I didn't like the design or the reviews. I felt a spider-ish design and a hopback was a failsafe design. I could be wrong, time and experience will tell.

I used a hop spider and the hop blocker (since it's already in my boil kettle, I figure twice the protection from roaming hops) on my second run on the BE and it worked like a charm! I actually had to spend 2-3 hours washing and backwashing the therminator/plate chiller from brew day #1 in order to get all of the hops and grains out of the plates. After brewday #2 with the hop spider I quickly washed and backwashed the therminator and it was squeeky clean. In sum, I HIGHLY recommend using a hop spider.

 

[strangr419]

Does anyone stir their MT periodically during the mash? Just wondering if it may help efficiency a little. Also if I did stir would it drag grains down to the BK because of disrupting the grain bed.

DO NOT fully stir the mash. Follow the manual which says to only stir the top three inches. I had a stuck sparge on my first BE run as a result of not following this instruction. Also, had grains in the BK as a result. Trust me, no bueno.

 

[mash-mongrel]

Galling is a real problem. If any heat or binding in the threads occurs, the threads will literally weld together at any point. Any pipe thread will bind, it is engineered to do just that, bind and make a tight seal. Tape should be used on NPT fittings, stainless steel or not.


My question is why wouldn't you use tape, what hurt could it cause?

post #104 by Danam404:
"As far as the temp probe, it is not supposed to have teflon tape on it."

Yep... the probe shipped with my unit was defective.. it leaked. I pulled it off and put teflon tape on it (to no avail), and was chastised by the blichmann people for putting tape on it.

But if I'm being honest, I don't think it matters one way or the other.

I want to clear any confusion that I may have caused. I just opened my electric control module and had a look at the temperature sensor's threads and what Danam404 has posted is correct, you don't use tape on the threads.

The sensor's threads are not NPT tapered threads used on threaded pipes and fittings but are straight threads that are found on a bolt, a taper thread will pull tight and therefore make a fluid-tight seal where I was concerned about Galling. The supplied O-ring will make the seal in this case, however the chance of Galling is still possible so a good quality food grade lubricant could be recommended.

 

[hmattar]

I want to clear any confusion that I may have caused. I just opened my electric control module and had a look at the temperature sensor's threads and what Danam404 has posted is correct, you don't use tape on the threads.

The sensor's threads are not NPT tapered threads used on threaded pipes and fittings but are straight threads that are found on a bolt, a taper thread will pull tight and therefore make a fluid-tight seal where I was concerned about Galling. The supplied O-ring will make the seal in this case, however the chance of Galling is still possible so a good quality food grade lubricant could be recommended.

So I don't use tape between the Probe and the adpter Bushing. Ok
And between the bushing and my 1/2 Tee? Should I put tape there?

 

[mash-mongrel]

So I don't use tape between the Probe and the adpter Bushing. Ok
And between the bushing and my 1/2 Tee? Should I put tape there?

Yes you should, as the outer threads on the bushing are NPT threads.

So my new controller has a bolt inside the case that tumbles around. For what this thing cost, I expected a lot better.

I called Ontario Beer Keg where I made the purchase, the guy on the phone told me not to "freak out", plug it in and try it. OK, I thought loose parts could act as a jumper and short something out. I would open the case up and remove the bolt myself but Blichmann has tamper tape on the case for warranty purposes. I need to call Blichmann.

I waited a month for this controller and I'm more than capable of removing the inch long bolt that can be seen through the air vent. If Blichmann wants me to ship it back to them, then I will FREAK OUT!!

On the phone with OBK I asked him why he removed the Controllers and Boil coils from his website, "it is no longer for sale in Canada" he told me. "Blichmann is not offering sale of the controllers to Canadian costumers." He said "I probably have the last one bought and sold in Canada", SO what's up with that?

$2500 in equipment, am I still going to get service on my controller that has lose parts floating around inside. This is a review thread for Blichmann and that's how I received my controller.

 

[mash-mongrel]

Here is the reason for discontinuing sales in Canada.

"neither the Boil Coil or Tower of Power are CSA approved. Henceforth they will discontinue shipping those products into Canada. They are working on the certification for the Boil Coil however they will not be pursuing certification for the Tower."

Posted by Dave owner of EvenwoodAveBrewShop from Brewnosers homebrew forum.

 

[Danam404]

Dana, what is your procedure involving sanitizing the pump and therminator?

I pretty much have the exact same system.. (20G Breweasy and 26G conical) and my first brewday will most likely be next weekend


Do you just let the PBW and starsan from the conical flow through the pump and therminator when the boil has started?

All tips like this would be most appreciated. I would like my first brew to go as smootly as possible

I'm coming from a 5 gallon BIAB system with a IC, so I've never user a plate chiller before

Alright so here's what I do, and I haven't had any issues yet:


After a brew, when I've got all the wort safely in the conical, I spray the bottom kettle out and pump the fresh water thru the chiller and out a long hose that runs into the yard. I rinse it 2 or 3 times just with water to knock most of the crud out.

I then fill the kettle all the way up with PBW and get it up to about 180 degrees. I take that same "wort out" hose, and put it in the brew kettle. I fire up the pump and start circulating the PBW solution thru all the hose, thru the chiller, then back into the kettle... I let it run in a closed loop like this for about 10 mins.

I have MoreBeer stainless disconnects throughout my whole system, so this is easier for me that most, but then I swap the "wort in" and "wort out" hoses.... in effect back flushing the chiller, and I run that in a closed loop for 10 minutes.

I brew 3 or 4 batches without this back flush step..... figured just recirculating PBW thru the chiller right after i brewed would be plenty sufficient... let me tell you I was SHOCKED at how much crud came out of the plate chiller with a back flush...... and this was after I'd cleaned it my normal method... very very lucky I never got an infection.

After the PBW cycle, I take the "out" hose and run it out of the garage and into the yard, dump the PBW, then I rinse the kettle with fresh water, which i run thru the chiller as well.

Once it's rinsed, I sanitize the chiller for it's next use, so I don't have to worry about it on brew day. I fill the kettle up with about 4 or so gallons of water, then add starsan. I cycle it thru the chiller and back into the kettle for a couple minutes, then i pump it thru the chiller and into the yard. When it has all cycled through, I use a sandwich bag, wrap it around the chiller ports, and secure it with tape... sealing the last bit of starsan in there. This way it's sanitized and ready to roll for the next brew day. I also bag and tape my "out" hose, so it is also sanitized for next use as well.




For your first brew day, just fill your kettle up with 26 gallons of starsan solution, then pump it thru the chiller and into your conical. Let it sit in there while you brew, and just before you're ready to pump out and chill, dump it. There will be some residual star san in your system, I wouldn't worry much about it, but if you're overly concerned just have a bucket on standby. Run the pump into the bucket til you see wort, then put it into the conical and proceed as normal.


One thing I'll say that is helpful: have a clamp at the ready. when you recirculate PBW or even when your pumping chilled wort, once you pressurize the hose it has a nasty habit of rearing back and coming out of the fermenter/kettle.... and that makes a mess, ask me how i know. I use a little hand clamp to fix the hose to whatever vessel I'm pumping into, you can actually see it in the video i posted during the chilling phase.


ok my typing fingers hurt, over and out.

 

[flokason]

Thank you so much for that great reply!

I have one question though. Do you use the same hoses to transfer to wort from the BK to the pump and chiller as you used in the mash (re-circulation).
If you do, do you clean them with PBW after the mash, and then starsan? I didn't see that in the video. I see you filled it with StarSan when the boil started, so you might have flushed them with star san, but wouldn't you need to clean them with PBW?


I was planning on buying a hose to go from the therminator to the fermenter, but using the hose that came with the system to connect the BK to the pump and from there to the therminator.

 

[the_mc]

Thank you so much for that great reply!

I have one question though. Do you use the same hoses to transfer to wort from the BK to the pump and chiller as you used in the mash (re-circulation).
If you do, do you clean them with PBW after the mash, and then starsan? I didn't see that in the video. I see you filled it with StarSan when the boil started, so you might have flushed them with star san, but wouldn't you need to clean them with PBW?


I was planning on buying a hose to go from the therminator to the fermenter, but using the hose that came with the system to connect the BK to the pump and from there to the therminator.

The only hose that needs to be clean/Starsan'd is after the Chiller. If you use the mash hose to go from the chiller to the fermentor all you need to do is pasteurize the hose and chiller by recirculating the wort from the BK through the hoses and chiller back into the BK for 5-10 minutes before chilling. That way you kill all the little buggies in the hose and the chiller.

 

[hmattar]

Just did my first test with water, and the boil kettle alone.
With justs 9 gallons os water in the kettle, it stuck at full manual power at
208F. I had to put the lid on to hit 212 and get a full boil.

Also at full power, i was reaching 2.7F rise per minute(9 gallons of water).
Ain't that too low?

My system is the 10 gallons 220v one.

 

[Danam404]

Just did my first test with water, and the boil kettle alone.
With justs 9 gallons os water in the kettle, it stuck at full manual power at
208F. I had to put the lid on to hit 212 and get a full boil.

Also at full power, i was reaching 2.7F rise per minute(9 gallons of water).
Ain't that too low?

My system is the 10 gallons 220v one.

There is absolutely something wrong. I can fill my BK to the top with 20 gallons of water and have it to a rolling boil in about 20 minutes, without the lid on. at full power the boil coil with fog out my garage (as seen in my video) and boil off 2+ gallons per hour.

Check to make sure you have it turned up to "ON" power, and also that the toggle switch is turned up to "ON". Beyond that its got to be an issue with your electrical source or a defective boil coil.

The results you described are what I would expect from a 120V version

 

[Danam404]

Thank you so much for that great reply!

I have one question though. Do you use the same hoses to transfer to wort from the BK to the pump and chiller as you used in the mash (re-circulation).
If you do, do you clean them with PBW after the mash, and then starsan? I didn't see that in the video. I see you filled it with StarSan when the boil started, so you might have flushed them with star san, but wouldn't you need to clean them with PBW?


I was planning on buying a hose to go from the therminator to the fermenter, but using the hose that came with the system to connect the BK to the pump and from there to the therminator.

What you're planning is correct. I actually have 2 different hoses for my setup...

-For transferring wort from the kettle to the conical, I have a length of hose that has a Blichmann Thrumometer on it... which i highly recommend by the way.

..problem with the thrumometer is you can only run liquid up to 140 degrees through it.

-I have a second length of hose that I use mainly for cleaning purposes, when I recirculate PBW at 200 degrees, or even to run used cleaning liquid out of the garage and into the driveway.... you can see it in the video when I sanitized the conical, instead of trying to lift 20 gallons of spent starsan and dumping it, I just hook that long hose up to it and run it out of the garage.


The thrumometer hose stays sanitized, and I usually have no reason to sanitize the other.

By the way, buy silicone brewing hose. I get mine from MoreBeer. It's expensive, but there's no going back to that brittle, cheap plastic junk once you use it.









Just did the math today, 97.5 gallons of beer produced with the BrewEasy to date. Will break 100 next week!