Blichmann Boilermaker Reviews

[MNBugeater]

So this was my third run with the Blichmanns and really my only complaint has been the boil screen . The mash tun false bottom is great, no stuck sparge, good clean filtering. I was just over 80% efficiency with the latest batch. I have a 20G boil kettle and 15G MT.

The first batch was all pellets, the second was a mix of pellets and whole leaf, and the third yesterday was all whole leaf.

The worst by far was the pellets. I do a recirculation/whirlpool with a pump and this just created a compacted pellet cake around the boil screen that not only left way too much beer behind but took nearly an hour to get clean and involved the use a toothbrush and toothpicks to get all the hop residue from all the tight folds of the mesh.

The pellet/whole leaf was better, but still posed the same problem.

korndog mentioned he had problems in the past also.

I have the 15 gallon kettles. They are very nice but I have had trouble with the boil screen clogging. I never had any issues with my Bazooka screen and never used a hop bag. I have had two stuck brews now and will have to use bags in the future. I whirlpooled on knockout as suggested in the instructions, but to no avail. I think the product is simply not designed well for large hop additions directly to the kettle. I am a big fan of Blichmann products.

This sounds like pellets were the culprit of the clogging and I would second that. This blichmann boil screen is not suited for pellets/pump/recirc. Maybe if you used pellets, manually wirlpooled at knockout, and then siphon/gravity transfer you might be ok, but not with a pump.

Finally, whole hops....either I got lucky or this is the trick.

I brewed Ed's Haus Pale Ale yesterday with a few changes. Sorry Ed, all I had around was some British Ale yeast, so thats what I used.

I also added .5 oz of Cascade at flame out for a total of 4 oz of whole leafs hops for a 10G batch.

2oz - 60
1oz - 30
.5oz - 15
.5oz - 0

I had a totally different experience. Whole hops was the trick. I had no stuck brew/pumping/transfer. In fact even at as the very last bit was being pumped out there was no decrease in flow. I suspect I could probably double the hops and still not have a problem. I will use whole hops now as much as I can, but I also plan on making a hopbag for use with pellets as I know pellets are more available right now.

Here was the end of the boil transfer. The great thing was that the remaining beer was about 1.5 cups which was exactly what I had calibrated it at when I just ran water through it when I first got these new kettles.

 

[korndog]

I tried the screen again using hop bags and couldn't drain. This was only cold/hot break causing this.

 

[EdWort]

I tried the screen again using hop bags and couldn't drain. This was only cold/hot break causing this.

Thanks for the info. It looks like the boils screen is not going to be compatible with an immersion chiller.

 

[korndog]

Thanks for the info. It looks like the boils screen is not going to be compatible with an immersion chiller.

That's been my experience Ed. Also in my experience, if you throw a considerable break, even the dip tube has issues. I am going to try a stainless scouring pad over the dip tube next time per John Blichmann's suggestion. If that doesn't work, I will cut the dip tube shorter so that it does not sit in the break.

KD

 

[brewmeone]

The screen has been an issue with my 15 gallon Blichmann brewpot as well. We've been getting a lot of trub that clogs the screen very quickly.

My friend emailed John Blichmann and received the following reply:

The only trouble with an immersion chiller is getting a strong whirlpool which will settle most of the particulates into the center of the pot….the coil itself kind of impedes this. So, perhaps you can try removing the chiller after cooling and then whirlpool vigorously with a sanitized paddle (which will also help add needed oxygen) then allowing 20min or so for it all to settle. Then drain at a slower rate to prevent disturbing the sediment. Or if you don't want to go through that hassle, use a fine mesh nylon hop bag for your pellet hops. For boil and flavor hops, there is little reduction in utilization rates. Lastly, high protein beers that use significant amounts of wheat or oats are very prone to clogging about any filter, so you may need to skip using the screen for these beers.

I'm going to try the vigorous whirlpool AFTER using the immersion chiller. Is it the immersion chiller that is creating the trub?

 

[korndog]

The screen has been an issue with my 15 gallon Blichmann brewpot as well. We've been getting a lot of trub that clogs the screen very quickly.

My friend emailed John Blichmann and received the following reply:
I'm going to try the vigorous whirlpool AFTER using the immersion chiller. Is it the immersion chiller that is creating the trub?

I have exchanged a few emails with John on this. I have tried several methods. Yesterday, I used the diverter plate with no screen. I recirculated through a plate chiller and then used a paint stirrer on a drill to whirlpool post-chill. I didn't have any drainage issues after 15 minute settling period, but my wort had lots of suspension. I think this technique is basically sound, but will need some tweaking. Cutting the dip tube above the trub line seems reasonable too. The .19 gallon waste with the stock setup is pretty low. I will try it again without hop bags to see if I can get away with that. I use lots of knockout hops and feel like my beer is suffering because I have to use bags. Other options are to just use a large auto-siphon and be done with it, or possibly a hop-back/filter setup.

 

[tarheels]

so those of you who have these pots would you buy them again or look for a different option

 

[ScubaSteve]

These problems are endemic to all kettles/kegs. It's a process thing.....I'm sure the pots are awesome

 

[korndog]

so those of you who have these pots would you buy them again or look for a different option

Good question. I have to admit that part of the reason I bought the kettles was the way they looked. Yes, the features are awesome too, especially the false bottom for the mash tun. As Scubasteve said, some of the problems are not particular to the Blichmann's. My wish list for them includes a lower thermometer mounting and better boil screen option. I am a big fan of Blichmann products, but I think I might go with the Sabco boil kettle if I had to do it again. They cost more than the Blichmann though.

 

[nathan]

what about a few pieces of copper, and either bend or put on some fittings so you can hang them on the edge of the pot... put QDs on them. Use one as a pump draw, and one as a return angled against the wall, and pull from the kettle mid-depth. Whirlpool through this, instead of whirlpooling by drawing through the screen. When it's done, the screen should be relatively clear and your trub pile centered so you can slowly draw wort off through a cfc to fermenter. Alternatively you could cool it with an IC, and use the hang-on-the-side copper pieces to create a whirlpool while using IC, then just continue to whirlpool a few moments after removing IC, let settle, then drain off slowly or pump off slowly to fermenter.

I actually just ordered a 20g, but to use as a mash tun. I've gotten a keg converted for the boil vessel.

What size is the female thread from the ball valve? Will the SS QD from B3 (wow... nobody but beer folks could possibly know what that means) thread directly in? I assume their QDs connect fine on the QD side, regardless of wether they are barb or threaded on the hose/pipe end.

 

[korndog]

what about a few pieces of copper, and either bend or put on some fittings so you can hang them on the edge of the pot... put QDs on them. Use one as a pump draw, and one as a return angled against the wall, and pull from the kettle mid-depth. Whirlpool through this, instead of whirlpooling by drawing through the screen. When it's done, the screen should be relatively clear and your trub pile centered so you can slowly draw wort off through a cfc to fermenter. Alternatively you could cool it with an IC, and use the hang-on-the-side copper pieces to create a whirlpool while using IC, then just continue to whirlpool a few moments after removing IC, let settle, then drain off slowly or pump off slowly to fermenter.

I actually just ordered a 20g, but to use as a mash tun. I've gotten a keg converted for the boil vessel.

What size is the female thread from the ball valve? Will the SS QD from B3 (wow... nobody but beer folks could possibly know what that means) thread directly in? I assume their QDs connect fine on the QD side, regardless of wether they are barb or threaded on the hose/pipe end.

Yes, this is a good option I think. I was thinking about drilling another port for this purpose, but your solution seems good too. I have B3SSQD's on every port of my brewery. Yes, they are fine. I'm not sure about your last question. The fittings are threaded; you need a FIP X Barb fitting to your hoses.

 

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

Yes, this is a good option I think. I was thinking about drilling another port for this purpose, but your solution seems good too. I have B3SSQD's on every port of my brewery. Yes, they are fine. I'm not sure about your last question. The fittings are threaded; you need a FIP X Barb fitting to your hoses.

Not anymore, they now carry a QD to barb version. They also sell all pieces separately.

 

[korndog]

Not anymore, they now carry a QD to barb version. They also sell all pieces separately.

Ah, I didn't know about the barb. That's cool. Too late for me unfortunately. On another note. There is an ebay seller called norastark that has been putting up silicone tubing that is awesome. It's like B3's but .875 OD instead of 3/4". The kicker is it's less than half the price of the B3. Here is a link to a 5/8" ID listing, but you could write and ask if they have any more of the 1/2". I bought a coil and it's way better than the Morebeer stuff.

KD

 

[nathan]

how much did the coil run you?
Also, the blichmenn female threaded end on the ball valve... it's 1/2"?

 

[nathan]

link no worky, btw, korndog

 

[korndog]

link no worky, btw, korndog

Sani-Tech Tubing STHT-C-500-5F New in Package - eBay (item 120328986615 end time Nov-04-08 19:58:05 PST)

31.99 + shipping for 50 foot coil. 'bout 94 Cents foot.

Blichmann ball valves I have are 1/2". they make other sizes though.

 

[nathan]

I must have that.
It's on next month's beer "allowance", though. Along with the pumps and QDs.

 

[RonRock]

I just emailed about future stock on the tubing. I'll get back as soon as I get a reply. Thanks, Korndog.

 

[nathan]

great! I would love to hear.

 

[RonRock]

She sent me an email. The tubing is listed again.

 

[kal]

Thanks for the heads up on the tubing, she had 4 listed and I think I got the last one.

Back on topic: I have a question about Blichmann boilermaker brew pots... I'm putting together a 100% electric 10gal setup using 15/15/20 gallon Blichmann pots. Where I'm a bit confused is the pot add-ons, and unfortunately which add-ons you get depends on the process you want to follow I suppose.

Does the following pot add-ons make sense?:

HLT: 15 gallon pot with no add-ons.
MLT: 15 gallon pot with the false bottom but not strainer (is there any reason to get a strainer here?)
BK: 20 gallon pot with the strainer but no false bottom (is there any reason to get a false bottom here?)

How I plan to use this:

HLT/MLT:

HERMS coil in the HLT from the MLT controlled by PID/pump, going out the bottom MLT valve. I don't see any reason to get the strainer in the MLT as it'll only get clogged up right? It's the grain bed that should be doing the filtering here as the sweet wort is circulated, held back slightly by the false bottom (right?).

BK:

My need: I want to try and keep the cold break out of the fermenter. I know it doesn't really make a difference but why not.

So because of this, I have to cool in the BK. Not sure if I'll go CFC or immersion but whichever I choose will use pump re-circulation (and whirlpooling). I'll make sure to *NOT* recirculate out the BK bottom valve as this'll clog up the screen based on what I've read above. I'll either punch a hole in the side or use drop-in copper lines.

So should I even bother with the screen in the BK at all? Or maybe go with the false bottom too or only the false bottom? Or nothing at all in the BK? This is the one that confuses me the most.

Kal

 

[korndog]

Does the following pot add-ons make sense?:

HLT: 15 gallon pot with no add-ons.
MLT: 15 gallon pot with the false bottom but not strainer (is there any reason to get a strainer here?)
BK: 20 gallon pot with the strainer but no false bottom (is there any reason to get a false bottom here?)

How I plan to use this:

HLT/MLT:

HERMS coil in the HLT from the MLT controlled by PID/pump, going out the bottom MLT valve. I don't see any reason to get the strainer in the MLT as it'll only get clogged up right? It's the grain bed that should be doing the filtering here as the sweet wort is circulated, held back slightly by the false bottom (right?).

BK:

My need: I want to try and keep the cold break out of the fermenter. I know it doesn't really make a difference but why not.

So because of this, I have to cool in the BK. Not sure if I'll go CFC or immersion but whichever I choose will use pump re-circulation (and whirlpooling). I'll make sure to *NOT* recirculate out the BK bottom valve as this'll clog up the screen based on what I've read above. I'll either punch a hole in the side or use drop-in copper lines.

So should I even bother with the screen in the BK at all? Or maybe go with the false bottom too or only the false bottom? Or nothing at all in the BK? This is the one that confuses me the most.

Kal

John Blcihmann advises against using hte FB in the kettle. Sabco users use them all the time, but the construction is different.

The boil screen will clog very easily if you use a pump on it. Your external recirculation device sounds good, but the boil screen is not great in any case.

 

[kal]

John Blcihmann advises against using hte FB in the kettle. Sabco users use them all the time, but the construction is different.

The boil screen will clog very easily if you use a pump on it. Your external recirculation device sounds good, but the boil screen is not great in any case.

Thanks! So does this mean you're recommending to only go with the dip tube in the BK? (Ie: no add-ons at all?)

Kal

 

[korndog]

Thanks! So does this mean you're recommending to only go with the dip tube in the BK? (Ie: no add-ons at all?)

Kal

No, not really. I have tried many configurations including no screen. This is the most frustrating part of my brewing sessions. No screen works ok if you use hop bags, but I have had problems with that configuration too. Hop bags, whirlpool and drain through dip tube with diverter has worked well.
Lately I have been reciruclating through a hopstopper and using an autosiphon to drain. My next try will be with an auxilliary recirculation device, probably thorugh a low drain with a filtered grant. It's a production for sure, but I have a feeling this will be the cats meow. I f i am thinking this thorugh, I should end up with a clean kettle that will drain easily through a screen.

 

[kal]

Thanks. So I've decided to order the BK with the strainer anyway (it's not too expensive) just to be safe. I may or may not end up using it. MLT will only have the false bottom.

Kal

 

[korndog]

Thanks. So I've decided to order the BK with the strainer anyway (it's not too expensive) just to be safe. I may or may not end up using it. MLT will only have the false bottom.

Kal

That's good. Actually the diverter that comes with the screen is useful on its own.

 

[nathan]

it looks to me like the false bottom is different sizes based on pot size, but the strainer is probably the same regardless of size.

I just got my 20g blichmann (got it fully loaded, though I plan on using it as a MLT solely for now)

 

[kal]

Correct. The strainers are all the same. The false bottoms are different.

Just ordered my 20/20/20 gallon Blichmann pot setup yesterday! (3 pots)

Kal

 

[BrewBeemer]

An early Me to Me X-mas present congrats you lucky dog.
I know what you'll be doing during those cold wet weekends.

 

[wtwerner]

I was browsing the forums and found this relatively old thread. I was wondering if you have the old boil screens. I just got a 10gal kettle with a screen and there was a leaflet that said that the screen now had larger mesh to prevent clogging, but it was still not recommended for the two largest kettles.