Blichmann Boilermaker Reviews

[kal]

Whoa! They have larger screens now? Any pictures? I was getting all ready to buy a hopstopper for my Blichmann but I'll have to see the new screen first.

Kal

 

[korndog]

I was browsing the forums and found this relatively old thread. I was wondering if you have the old boil screens. I just got a 10gal kettle with a screen and there was a leaflet that said that the screen now had larger mesh to prevent clogging, but it was still not recommended for the two largest kettles.

I do have the old screen. Interesting information; I think I will drop John a line and get the new screen for the heck of it.

KD

 

[kal]

Wait a second - are you saying only the mesh is bigger on the screen? It's the same sized screen but the holes are bigger?

Kal

 

[kal]

Larry: I was going to email John but no need to flood his inbox. Let us know what he says if you don't mind. I still have my old unused screen sitting here. (I've only had my Blichmann pots for 2 months ... Brewery is still being built).

Kal

 

[wtwerner]

Wait a second - are you saying only the mesh is bigger on the screen? It's the same sized screen but the holes are bigger?

That's what I understand from that leaflet. I have all my brewing gear at my girlfriend's apartment and I'm stuck in bed with the flu so I can't get more info/pictures for now, sorry.

 

[korndog]

Larry: I was going to email John but no need to flood his inbox. Let us know what he says if you don't mind. I still have my old unused screen sitting here. (I've only had my Blichmann pots for 2 months ... Brewery is still being built).

Kal

From Blichmann

"We did increase the mesh size a bit awhile ago, but it didn’t change the performance with pellet hops. I don’t recall any “leaflet’s”, but we did add a note to the package that we only recommend it for 10/15/20 gal pots due to plugging issues with the larger pots. We are trying to develop a better system to handle pellet hops, but unfortunately they are stubborn little things. The best way to deal with them is still a fine mesh reusable nylon hop bag."

 

[kal]

.... or buy a hopstopper.

Thanks Larry. Going to order my hopstopper now.

Kal

(My boilermaker screen may already be the larger mesh size - I ordered/received them in Dec 2008)

 

[wtwerner]

Yeah, I guess I misremembered the leaflet. Hehe.

 

[o0weno]

I didn't read all of the posts, but what's stopping you guys from using the false bottom as a huge hop screen? Maybe cover it with a piece of fine metal screen like the hop stopper?

 

[PorterIV]

Quick question for owners of the Biolermaker. Have you had any scorching issues? I haven't seen one in person but I was a little surprised by the picture on their website where the bottom does not look any thicker than the sides.

Thanks!

 

[JayInJersey]

To the people that use the Boilmaker as an MLT:

How would you rate the False Bottom compared to say a generic one for a 10G Rubbermaid available on nearly every site?

I ask as the standard preforrated false bottom I have in my Rubbermaid is crap. I've stuck my last four batches and the reason each one is sticking is the FB is clogging in the holes from both grain and rice hulls or what I noticed on my last batch the FB actually collapsing flat from the grain weight (only 18#s but still)
And as of the last batch I'm in the need of a new MLT (mine took several nasty hits from a Fire Axe...didn't help but made me feel a hell of a lot better)

I was planning on using the Blichmann 15G for 5/10G batches as the bottom looks both sturdy and effcient.

I HERMS and planned to keep my 10G Rubbermaid eHLT and insulate the Blichmann with Relfetix (that wrap from HD)

So on a rating system...how would you guys rate the Blichmann False Bottom?

 

[kal]

To the people that use the Boilmaker as an MLT:

How would you rate the False Bottom compared to say a generic one for a 10G Rubbermaid available on nearly every site?

I ask as the standard preforrated false bottom I have in my Rubbermaid is crap. I've stuck my last four batches and the reason each one is sticking is the FB is clogging in the holes from both grain and rice hulls or what I noticed on my last batch the FB actually collapsing flat from the grain weight (only 18#s but still)
And as of the last batch I'm in the need of a new MLT (mine took several nasty hits from a Fire Axe...didn't help but made me feel a hell of a lot better)

I was planning on using the Blichmann 15G for 5/10G batches as the bottom looks both sturdy and effcient.

I HERMS and planned to keep my 10G Rubbermaid eHLT and insulate the Blichmann with Relfetix (that wrap from HD)

So on a rating system...how would you guys rate the Blichmann False Bottom?

I love mine. I have a 20/20/20 Blichmann Boilermaker setup and make 12 gallon batches. I've only been using the setup for about 8 months but in the dozen or so batches I've made (ranging from 3.3-9% ABV) I've never had any sort of stuck mash, clogs or anything else like that. I recirc (HERMS) pretty fast too. Pump's about 40-50% open.

What I like about the setup is that the equipment's never getting in the way for me. I can concentrate now on recipes instead of worrying about the equipment.

I've never used any other mash tun but constantly read and hear about all the problems that others have with stuck sparges/etc.

Kal

 

[JayInJersey]

You think the 20G would be too big for a 5G batch?

I only do 5G with the occasional 10G in there.

(And completely off topic...any chance you have a better shot of your control panel? that's basically what I'm drawing up and want to see if I'm missing anything)

 

[kal]

You think the 20G would be too big for a 5G batch?

I only do 5G with the occasional 10G in there.

The only issue with using the larger kettles (from what I can tell) is that the thermometer won't work correctly as it won't be in the grain bed to measure mash temp. Blichmann does offer two thermometer locations now it seems (two holes with a hole plug). See the sizing guide tab here: http://www.blichmannengineering.com/boilermaker/boilermaker.html

(And completely off topic...any chance you have a better shot of your control panel? that's basically what I'm drawing up and want to see if I'm missing anything)

On my todo list to update the site with full details.

Some extra pics for now from when I was assembling it:

http://www.curtpalme.com/kal/IMG_1474.jpg

http://www.curtpalme.com/kal/IMG_1475.jpg

http://www.curtpalme.com/kal/IMG_1477.jpg

http://www.curtpalme.com/kal/IMG_1476.jpg

http://www.curtpalme.com/kal/IMG_1478.jpg

Kal

 

[JayInJersey]

Thos pictures are perfect.

And it looks like it runs off 30A/240v? That's exactly what I was sketching up

Looks like I'll be visiting your site a bit more often now. Want to read more on the alarm setup.


Oh and I LOVE the volt and amp gauges...L-O-V-E them and defiantely going to be adding them to my sketch.


Although the key ignition isn't right for my setup...mine will have a big ole Dr Frankenstein looking toggle switch....and I've been considering a jacob's ladder for above it just for S&G (People call me the mad scientist while I am brewing cause I wear a lab coat I got from somewhere)

 

[kal]

And it looks like it runs off 30A/240v? That's exactly what I was sketching up

Yup. Runs off a standard North American 240V/30A dryer style outlet. Only one element is on at once.

Kal

 

[JayInJersey]

Cool...my $$$ was either going to be divereted to getting an electrician in to wire me an outlet or using the Dryer plug and putting the $$$ in the equipment.

Now get to work and update your site

 

[Captain_Bigelow]

I got a couple of 10g Boilermakers for Christmas. I just set them up and I can not open the valve as the thermometer is too low and in the way. Does anyone else have this problem? I find that to open the valve I have to tilt the thermometer fully up in order to create the space to turn the handle.

 

[wildwest450]

I got a couple of 10g Boilermakers for Christmas. I just set them up and I can not open the valve as the thermometer is too low and in the way. Does anyone else have this problem? I find that to open the valve I have to tilt the thermometer fully up in order to create the space to turn the handle.

Odd, I just moved one of my thermometers down because it was to high. I believe you'll find they need to be tipped way up any way to see them when brewing. A pic would be nice.

 

[Captain_Bigelow]

As requested here are the pics. As you can see I have to tilt thermometer up in order to fully open valve.

 

[BrewBeemer]

I would take that handle and remove 3/4 of the offset allowing knuckle clearance with the temp gauge. Your dealing in assembled for them not custom built to your personal liking, leave it or take it with it's flaws.
Sad that the temp gauge is located so high up not a requestion personal location you want but punched by a outside supplier I bet not in house.
Why straight above each other not staggered 15 to 30 degrees at at the same elevations?
Not to offend since i've been accused of "being always negative" on my Blichmann replies.

 

[BrewMoreBeers]

If the clearance is a problem for you set-up, have you thought about rotating the ball valve so that the handle travels on a vertical plane?

I have had a boilermaker for a while and i never even noticed this issue until you pointed it out to me. I have always had my thermometer tipped up and that provides plenty of clearance for working the valve.

 

[wildwest450]

Unless your pot is going to be 5 ft in the air, you'll need to tip the thermos up any ways. I don't mind banging on Blichmann because they are not the end all be all people think they are, but I don't honestly see your setup being a big problem.

Now, a warped false bottom and a pot full of rust...........

 

[BrewBeemer]

The best product replacement has been by Mike with Chugger pump, hats off to him and his successful business.

 

[PorterIV]

Bigelow,

I got two for Christmas and had the same issue. As said above I figured that I would have to tip the the faceplate up anyway to see it properly.

We will see as I set it up, but it seems to me that the ball valve and the thermometer should be on the same plane. Not as neat from a visual perspective but would solve two problems in one.

All in all, though it seems like a nice solid piece of equipment.

Thanks for the post.

 

[Captain_Bigelow]

I am using the Top Tier. I guess for my pot on the top level I will have to just turn the thermometer up before I turn the valve - no big deal.

I agree with you it is a nice piece of equipment and very shinny!

 

[MikeMayhem]

Hey guys, I was hoping you could help me out.

I want to purchase the 10 Gallon boilermaker to use a kettle for 5 gallon batches. But after reading and research it still seems these "loaded" boilermakers are missing vital pieces to be complete brew kettles. So if you can help me right my ship i'd appreciate it.


A little background. Right now i do extract batches with partial boils. The first few batches I would use a large nylon filter bag over a bucket to filter break material out and then drain into a carboy. The last several i've used a chiller and then used an auto-siphon to bring my wort directly into the carboy. I would like to reduce these steps and have a kettle with ball-valve that i can simply drain filtered wort into the primary fermenter and be done with it.

That being said...

For my future boilermaker to essentially complete all of this I will need the following "accessories"..

1 - Hop Blocker
1 - Set of Quick connector hardware to connect ball-valve to drainage hose (which size do i need? 1/2" NPT x 3/8"?)

 

[PorterIV]

I haven't tried mine out yet - busy January - but I think that as long as you use hop bags you don't need the hop blocker. At least I am trying to get by without it.

For the drainage hose just use a SS nipple. I grabbed one off of an old cooler conversion kit that works perfectly. 1/2 inch connector to the ball valve - you pick the size for your hose. No need invest in a quick connect.

 

[Seven]

For my future boilermaker to essentially complete all of this I will need the following "accessories"..

1 - Hop Blocker
1 - Set of Quick connector hardware to connect ball-valve to drainage hose (which size do i need? 1/2" NPT x 3/8"?)

• You can use a hopblocker or you can do what I do which is whirlpool the wort to cause all of the trub/hops to collect in the center of the kettle. After whirlpooling give it about 30-mins to settle then you can use the ball-valve to transfer the wort since it pulls wort from the side of the kettle and most of the trub/hops have settled in the middle. There's also another product called the HopStopper that looks interesting.
• Correct, you'd need a 1/2" NPT to 3/8" barb. You can also get these from Home Depot for about $4.

 

[MikeMayhem]

When you whirlpool do you...

1. Chill the wort first? I have an immersion chiller so would i chill, then whirlpool?

2. Use the dip tube attachment or simply let the wort drain from the valve opening?