chemman14
Well-Known Member
I can crash cool this for at least 2 weeks. How much yeast should I add? I would prefer a rogue yeast but anything else high flocculating would be fine
I can crash cool this for at least 2 weeks. How much yeast should I add? I would prefer a rogue yeast but anything else high flocculating would be fine
If you saved the yeast from the primary, you can make a small starter and pitch a portion of it. Lately I've been making a 600 mL starter, decanting half of it and pitching 100 mL of the remaining slurry into the bottling bucket. If you choose dry yeast, 1/2 of a packet will suffice. Nottingham, S-05 or T-58 are all good choices.
I was thinking of culturing from the dregs of a bottle
That would work just fine. Step it up to 500-600 mL. Pitch a bit of it into the bottling bucket and store the rest in a sanitized mason jar to make a starter in a future batch. Win-win.
what would you suggest I start with?
That is definitely just CO2 coming out of solution. Airlock activity has only a passing relationship to yeast activity.Agitating the carboy to try to reactivate the yeast is often a suggested way to attempt to revive a stuck fermentation. You may be right about CO2 with a large move of a carboy. However, if I slide my carboy across a carpet to store in the corner of the room trying to not stir it up at all, with barely any surface ripples, I will still see a renewal of airlock activity.
This is just anecdotal observations on my part. Not sure how it would apply to a large beer with long storage or flocculated yeast.
There is no concensus.
Why risk it for such a special brew?
Go safe and add yeast to the priming sugar after cooling.
Or do whatever you want, but decide.
I plan on adding yeast, but how much and what kind is the question
The Sierra Nevada brewery, for instance, adds only enough yeast to their bottle conditioned beers to get about 250,000 cells/mL, or the equivalent of 1 teaspoon (5 mL) of yeast slurry in a 5-gallon (19 L) batch.