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I can crash cool this for at least 2 weeks. How much yeast should I add? I would prefer a rogue yeast but anything else high flocculating would be fine
 
I can crash cool this for at least 2 weeks. How much yeast should I add? I would prefer a rogue yeast but anything else high flocculating would be fine

If you saved the yeast from the primary, you can make a small starter and pitch a portion of it. Lately I've been making a 600 mL starter, decanting half of it and pitching 100 mL of the remaining slurry into the bottling bucket. If you choose dry yeast, 1/2 of a packet will suffice. Nottingham, S-05 or T-58 are all good choices.
 
If you saved the yeast from the primary, you can make a small starter and pitch a portion of it. Lately I've been making a 600 mL starter, decanting half of it and pitching 100 mL of the remaining slurry into the bottling bucket. If you choose dry yeast, 1/2 of a packet will suffice. Nottingham, S-05 or T-58 are all good choices.

I was thinking of culturing from the dregs of a bottle
 
Agitating the carboy to try to reactivate the yeast is often a suggested way to attempt to revive a stuck fermentation. You may be right about CO2 with a large move of a carboy. However, if I slide my carboy across a carpet to store in the corner of the room trying to not stir it up at all, with barely any surface ripples, I will still see a renewal of airlock activity.

This is just anecdotal observations on my part. Not sure how it would apply to a large beer with long storage or flocculated yeast.
That is definitely just CO2 coming out of solution. Airlock activity has only a passing relationship to yeast activity.
 
There is no concensus.

Why risk it for such a special brew?

Go safe and add yeast to the priming sugar after cooling.

Or do whatever you want, but decide.
 
I would add one smack pack of what you started with, or WL irish Ale yeast, or Notty dry.

Add it to the cooled (but still warm) priming solution and cover it for an hour or so. It should be a little frothy.

Dump that in the bucket, rack onto it.

Bottle, allow 6 weeks or so to carb.
 
I plan on adding yeast, but how much and what kind is the question

Plenty of options on what yeast to use. The original strain is always a good idea but just about anything will work. For a while I used Nottingham which worked fine but nowadays I use the original strain.

For an idea on the amount, I started with this article on BYO:

Beauty and the Yeast

The Sierra Nevada brewery, for instance, adds only enough yeast to their bottle conditioned beers to get about 250,000 cells/mL, or the equivalent of 1 teaspoon (5 mL) of yeast slurry in a 5-gallon (19 L) batch.

I did some estimating using Mr. Malty and figured that about 25mL out of a 500mL starter would be plenty for a 5 gallon batch so I doubled it to 50mL for good measure. That way I end up with plenty of yeast to do the job but not so much that I end up with a thick layer of sediment in the bottle.
 
I think I will just add a packet of us-05 to the corn sugar at bottling time. Allow it to sit for an hour or so and activate, pour into my bottling bucket, and rack the beer on top. I would love to get another smack pack of pacman but I dont think I can find one locally
 

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