BIAB Verlauf/fly sparge *Theoretical thread*

[bembel]

I just throw my hops directly into the pot and I use a crush whilrfoc Tablet so for best results in my set up in trub and hops filtration I set my carboy in a freezer for 12 hours after the boil and all trub and hops drop to the bottom, I pull the clear beer of the top to ferment. I do lose about a quart or 2 but I start with 7.5 gallons to allow for all the losses in my pot and cold crashing, this has worked for me for the last 2 years

I have been doing the same thing, after one night I was exhausted from mashing and too tired to boil, I just poured the warm wort into a clean bucket with sealing lid and stuck it in the fridge to wait until morning, the lid self seals due to the cooling wort and you keep a sterile wort as long as your bucket is clean. ( would not wait 2-3 days, but 12 hours is fine )

Two 'fall-off' benefits from being lazy

#1, your wort is now 45-50 degrees without having to use ice water through a CFC or other heat exchange to get it below 60, so you can pitch at 55 and raise slowly to fermenting temp

#2 ALL THE CRAP ( hot break, cold break, grain break, coffee break, you name it,) IS DENSE SLUDGE ON THE BOTTOM OF THE BUCKET NOW and you can just pour your wort into your fermentor and stop when it gets down to the sludge, then pour that last bit into a filter if you care too, this saves a lot of time and aggravation in my world. US Plastics sells nifty 100, 200 and 400 micron filters that fit right onto the top of a standard bucket, I use a 200 and a 400 and pour the last bit into this while I mess with my aeration stone and yeast, by the time im dont, gravity has cleared another 2-3 qts for me and the sludge goes down the drain

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=24071&catid=685

 

[wobdee]

Nice, I've been thinking of something similar for my lagers since its hard to cool them down below 50° before pitching. Might as well leave it in my fermenting fridge overnight, syphon off the trub and pitch the yeast.

 

[Siberian]

Nice answer!
Would love to know more about your recirculating setup as well, how did it come about, is it mainly for temp control?

It came about mainly as a temp control of the mash that let me set it and forget it. First I was running into issues heating the mash with my induction setup and having the bottom get hot and the top of the mash stay too cool.

So, I started just recirculating with a small pump and a temp probe in line, that helped.... but then it was just too much effort to keep adjusting the heat so I bought a RIMs tube and automated it with a home built controller based on this design - http://www.aledrinkers.com/

All in all it was a steady evolution from what I originally wanted as a setup (induction BIAB nothing special) into this setup with a BrewHardware.com RIMs tube, a 240v element setup to run low density on 120v instead, tiny 12v pump, extra ball valve, some hoses...

Evolved slowly over a year, I don't regret a bit of the change. Now I'm always recirculating, but I can walk away for an hour (or 2 if I get distracted) and come back to the mash exactly where I wanted it still.

FYI, the stainless steel bowl on the right hand side with the handle is my 'boil lid', my induction plate has trouble bringing 10+ gallons to a hard rolling boil, that lid takes care of it and gives me a good amount of predictable boil off (1g/hr).

 

[ol-hazza]

The more I hear about RIMS the more I want to upgrade.

Unfortunately I blew my car up and have had to buy a new one so there goes any significant upgrades to my brewery for now.