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BIAB Brewing (with pics)

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+1 to mysticmead. No off flavors from double crushing or squeezing. Squeeze the heck out of that thing! More wort = More beer! ;)
 
Really? I've never Really squeezed the bag because I read on here it would give tannin flavours. I just let it drain until my arms get tired and toss it. I'll squeeze from now on.
 
This is really good to know. Looks like I might be jumping up to 10 gallon batches too. My wife scored me a sweet 15.5 gallon keg today and I already have a keggle made.
 
Might be tough doing full volume BIAB with only a keggle or 15.5, for that reason I'm getting a 20gal from Spikebrewing once he gets them in stock. Woooo! My calculations using the biabbrewer.info calc shows that I can do 10 gal batches with a OG of around 1.080 which will give around 19.5 gallons full mash volume.

Of course the other option with a 15 is to top-off after mashing. I prefer the all volume though and my poor 10gal AL pot is just not cutting it - I overflow on 1.052-1.054+ OG batches.
 
I've done a 10 gallon BIAB batch a couple of times in a keggle with a two-three gallon batch sparge. It is fine for a medium strength beer but I wouldn't go over about an OG of 1.080.
 
Brewitt said:
I've done a 10 gallon BIAB batch a couple of times in a keggle with a two-three gallon batch sparge. It is fine for a medium strength beer but I wouldn't go over about an OG of 1.080.

I would def be doing session style beers for 10 gallon batches in a 15.5 gal keggle.
 
Did my first BIAB this morning. Got a 75% efficiency, not too shabby. In a few weeks we will see how it turns out.
 

Stupid question- that an aquarium thermometer (and if so why?) or a heater (self explanatory).[/QUOTE]

Looks like a garage, and an aquarium heater. Some people do that to hold fermentation temps in there garage.
 
This is what happens when you biab cream of three crops using Ontario Beer Grains with no irish moss, no whirlpool, and no worflock. Perfect, clear beer with 75% efficiency!

IMG_00000034.jpg
 
I am doing my first BIAB this weekend, and following this DFH90 min clone: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f69/dogfish-head-90-minute-clone-260675/
The recipe is written for 70% efficiency. Do you think I have a good time of hitting that my first time out? I was planning on getting the grains double milled at the LHBS

can you hit 70%... sure. as long as those grains are double crushed and you do a good 90min mash. that's is a lot of grain so I hope you have a large kettle and a way to suspend the bag. :)
 
I've got a 11gal pot, and it has the lobster cage insert which I am planning to suspend my voile bag from. 90 minutes is a long time though... was hoping to do 60 with a 10 minute mash out. Is it more likely I end up in the 60's?
 
I've got a 11gal pot, and it has the lobster cage insert which I am planning to suspend my voile bag from. 90 minutes is a long time though... was hoping to do 60 with a 10 minute mash out. Is it more likely I end up in the 60's?

do the 90 minutes, it gives you an extra 30 minutes to get everything ready for the boil. even with a 90 minute mash and 90 minute boil you can be done in 4 hours (including cleanup if you clean as you go)
 
I have to 2nd MysticMead regarding a way to suspend the bag with a heavy grain bill. The recipes I've done are usually 10-12 lbs & lifting the bag out to drain is tough when fully absorbed w/ water. For a large grain bill, definitely take that into account as holding huge weight for 5ish mins above the kettle would not be easy on the back!

Also, keep in mind that when you lift the bag out, if doing so manually, the bag & liquid are very hot! As I use a converted keg, I have to kind of maneuver the bag to get out of the opening in the top requiring me to grab a lower section of the bag - invariably scorching myself. A pair of gloves would be recommended...
 
Or you can do the double bag trick and deal with half of the grain bill at a time. However, be aware that it means stirring and manipulating two bags rather than one for the entire mashing process. I have done it a couple times and find it to be a good solution. I still like to use a rope and pulley to hold the bags for squeezing. Just avoids unnecessary spills and scalding.
 
I do something different. I have two buckets where I drilled 30 small holes into the bottom of one of the buckets and then this get placed inside the other bucket. I them remove the sack placing it inside of the stacked buckets to let this drain. I use a plate or bowl to press down on the grain to help remove any remaining wort.
 
I do something different. I have two buckets where I drilled 30 small holes into the bottom of one of the buckets and then this get placed inside the other bucket. I them remove the sack placing it inside of the stacked buckets to let this drain. I use a plate or bowl to press down on the grain to help remove any remaining wort.

I plan to do this on my next batch. I've tried combinations of holding it over another pot and I've got a smaller strainer basket, but it's not big enough to hold the grain bag completely so I've always ended up with a mess.

My other variance I've started doing is draining about half my wort into my old 6 gallon pot so that I can move my boil pot off the stove to lift the bag out. Before I tried lifting the bag out and I don't have enough clearance to the range hood and I always made a hell of a mess and scorched my stovetop. Not good.

I guess it's not true BIAB anymore, but it works for me. Just one more pot to clean.
 
I have also used oven grates (bought at local thrift shops for $1-2) and placed these over my boil kettle. The grain bag still goes into the bucket with holes but then this will allow the draining to go right into the boil kettle.

I always feel so dang cool when I can buy something at a thrift store that I repurpose for my brewing.
 
I have a question about step 6. If I somehow miscalculated my water volume, and have less than I think I need for the boil - do I top up right after the mash? Would the idea be to add enough water, stir, then take a gravity reading?
 
Yep, you can top off right before the boil to hit the correct pre-boil volume. I think some people do this when they try to stick with the 1.25 qt/lb ratio for their mash.
 
Take a pre-boil gravity reading. If on target, then adding water will dilute & you'd need to increase the boil time to increase the gravity, but be careful if doing that as you'd need to adjust your hop additions accordingly. Just be aware of the effect of the extra water & take that into account for the boil....
 
I have a question about step 6. If I somehow miscalculated my water volume, and have less than I think I need for the boil - do I top up right after the mash? Would the idea be to add enough water, stir, then take a gravity reading?

I would sparge more rather than adding water to the kettle...ok for BIAB maybe dunk more....add the wter through the grain for the most BFTB,,,bang for the buck
 

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