Best Fly Sparge Setup

[digdan]

I currently do my AG with a bazooka on a icecube cooler. I'm moving to an all keg system with pumps,... but I still have not found a solid answer on the best fly sparge system.

I'm going to be using an HLT that goes straight into my mash/lauter keggle (via gravity, since the pump won't go as slow as fly sparging requires) . I've seen products, from phils, or what not. But I would like to hear some first hand opinions on the best products and methods to use when doing a fly sparge.

Thanks in advance!

 

[disaffected]

digdan, I'm new to all this, and I'd like to ask you a question if you don't mind.

Why are you going from a batch sparging setup to an all keg system with pumps? What are the particular advantages of the all keg system over the ice box system that you hope to realize?

 

[Exo]

I've only done two AG's but my Phil's Sparge arm works great! 78 + 83% calculated efficiencies on both

 

[Turricaine]

The Spargearm definately works great. I understand that it is overhyped since there are ways around it if you dont have one.

My personal understanding of my problems with AG is I dont collect enough wort for the boil.

I tend to collect only 5.5 Gallons and have 5.0 Gallons after the boil.

Dont some people get about 8 Gallons and then spend forever boiling it into 5?

 

[brewhead]

Dont some people get about 8 Gallons and then spend forever boiling it into 5?

that's where knowing how much volume your system holds comes in handy...otherwise you oversparge.

for instance - on my system i calculate volumes in the kettle by inches. i know that for 11 gallons i need to sparge to 7.5", stop sparging, drain the mlt. brings me right up to 10.5 - 11" which is perfect.

as to sparging - i use phil's sparge arm. works great

 

[DAAB]

On close inspection Phils Sparge Arm doesnt look pretty but it really works well. Once you get the run off and sparge flow right which is just a case of raising or lowering the HLT to adjust the head pressure and adjusting the flow on the MT spigot, the sparge can be pretty much left to its own devices giving you time to clean and sanitize the brewing equipment.
While it isnt cheap,it definately pays for itself.

 

[digdan]

It breaks down to one word : Efficiency

I've done probably around 20 AG batch sparge batches with my current setup, and I'm failing to get the efficiency I wish I could. It will save me money, and make my alcohol a bit more potent.

Also, talking to the head brewers at Deschuttes they gradually raise their mash temps during the [SIZE=-1]sacchrification stage.[/SIZE]

digdan, I'm new to all this, and I'd like to ask you a question if you don't mind.

Why are you going from a batch sparging setup to an all keg system with pumps? What are the particular advantages of the all keg system over the ice box system that you hope to realize?

 

[Exo]

MMMMMM, Deschute's.... *drools*

 

[alemonkey]

BTW, if your pump is a magnetic type, like the March that a lot of people use, you can slow it down by putting a ball valve at the pump outlet to restrict it. Never put one at the inlet, as it can run the pump dry and ruin it. It's ok to restrict the outflow because the magnetic drive isn't directly coupled to the motor and will just slip if too much pressure builds up.

 

[Desert_Sky]

T
I tend to collect only 5.5 Gallons and have 5.0 Gallons after the boil.

wow, you only loose 1/2 a gallon in the boil? must be nice, I need to collect about 7 gallons, and Im down to 5.5 after a 60 minute boil.

 

[Turricaine]

what do u use to boil? Mine isnt flame driven propane torch / S.S. tub set-up.

It's a crappy UK kettle filament P.P. bin set-up.

Im thinking of doing partial extract coz my brews are turning out to be wimp beers.

 

[Desert_Sky]

Yea 9 gallon SS with propane :rockin: :rockin:

 

[DAAB]

Turricaine- Buy a second element and a 33L polypropylene bucket from the Hop Shop and switch everything over to that. It saves alot of time waiting for stuff to come to the boil although one element is enough for a rolling boil if you keep it clean.

If you want to try a partial mash or just make a 5L batch with a full mash, have a look here, its some instructions for 'minimashing' I put together for a friend. MiniMashing (also suitable for partial mashing without diastatic extract) LINK

 

[ajf]

I am very satisfied with my very old sparge arm. The only problem with it is that it is held in position with a rubber bung, but I have nothing to hold the rubber bung in position. The new design with the plastic piping seems to overcome that minor problem.

The one thing I would say is to get a round cooler to go with the arm. It dispenses water gently in a circle onto the top of the grain bed. If you use a rectangular cooler, then I would think that the grain in the corners would not get sparged and your efficiency would suffer.

Going with the round cooler, I can recommend the phil's false bottom. Other people prefer the SS knock off which costs a bit more. A search for phil's false bottom should turn up some useful information.

A 5g round cooler is a good size for normal strength (OG up to 1.060) brews. The most grain I've ever sparged in it was 12.5# which gave me a gravity of 1.072. I could probably have got another couple of pound of grain in it. A 10g cooler would be better if you brew larger batches or high gravity beers.

Another thing is the HLT capacity. I use another 5g cooler, but I find I need about 2g water in it to spin the sparge arm. This will depend on the geometry of your set up, and is easy to determine experimentally before you actually brew. For me, I just heat up another 2 - 3g sparge water.

I don't recommend the bazooka screen (or home brewed versions), simply because I've never used one and not because I know anything bad about them.. If I were batch sparging in a rectangular cooler, then I would certainly try the bazooka or a manifold.

Tips for fly sparging.
Try to keep the level of water in the lauter tun approximately equal with the top of the grain. An inch or so either way doesn't make any difference.
As the sparge continues and the sugars get rinsed out, the outflow from the tun increases.
As the head of sparge water drops, the amount of water delivered by the sparge arm decreases.
Both of these factors mean that you have to keep an eye on things. I gradually decrease the outflow from the lauter tun, and periodically stop the sparge arm to keep the level right.
Try not to rush things. I take about 90 minutes to fly sparge a 5g batch.

Hope this helps

-a.

 

[Monster Mash]

I've used the sprinler type sparge arms an I got tired of fighting them. Sometimes they spin and sometimes they don't and they lose heat from the sprinkler action. I built this, it works great and allows me to go from recirculating to sparging without switching anything.

 

[EdWort]

Pretty Sweet Setup!