Belgian Tripel Belgian Trippel (2006 World Beer Cup Gold Medal: Dragonmead Final Absolution clone)

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mclaughlindw4 said:
I would imagine that going at 1.085 is gonna get me close to ten percent. This would be finishing at 1.010 which seems reasonable for a tripel. If i wanted an 8.5%, I would think i'd be in the 70s somewhere for an OG.
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I believe with the extract recipe, most are finishing around 1.018 and not quite getting up to 1.085.

I know personally I started at 1.081.
 
Just an update in case anyone is in the same situation. I was stuck around 1.022ish, I swirled the bucket a little and fermentation took off again. A week later, I'm down to 1.016. I'm going to give it a few days to see if it's done but I'm happy with where I'm at now!
 
cdoebler said:
Just an update in case anyone is in the same situation. I was stuck around 1.022ish, I swirled the bucket a little and fermentation took off again. A week later, I'm down to 1.016. I'm going to give it a few days to see if it's done but I'm happy with where I'm at now!
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Did you notice any airlock activity? I'll be checking mine this coming week.
 
cdoebler said:
I did after I swirled it.
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I couldn't wait another week to check. It's day 22 and SG is 1.018 (down from 1.020 previously). I plan to bottle next weekend, providing I don't have to go out of town.

I've also swirled the bucket a few times over the last couple weeks. I never noticed any bubbles other than from CO2 coming out of solution.
 
keg'd half and bottled half after 5.5 weeks in primary. (Only have room for 2.5 gal keg). OG 1.083 , FG 1.018. Tastes great already!
 
So I think I dun goofed. Brewed this recipe for the first time all grain tonight. I checked my refractometer at 70 ferinheight and got 20 brix(1.083?) without any sugar addition. I used 15 lbs Pilsener Belgium beacuse I thought my efficiency was ****. what should i do? I brewed an IPA a couple days ago with 14lbs 2 row and came in at 16 brix.... so i don't think i have issues with the refractometer. I verified zero with RO water. Should I add any sugar to the wort like the recipe calls for??????


EDIT: So, i'm just going to add 1 pound beet sugar. If my calculations are correct I should end up with about 10.5%ABV!
 
tucsonmike said:
So I think I dun goofed. Brewed this recipe for the first time all grain tonight. I checked my refractometer at 70 ferinheight and got 20 brix(1.083?) without any sugar addition. I used 15 lbs Pilsener Belgium beacuse I thought my efficiency was ****. what should i do? I brewed an IPA a couple days ago with 14lbs 2 row and came in at 16 brix.... so i don't think i have issues with the refractometer. I verified zero with RO water. Should I add any sugar to the wort like the recipe calls for??????


Thanks for the help, -Mike:rockin:
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I would still as the candi sugar is pretty characteristic to the tripel style and I like higher ABV! I have heard adding it after fermentation is started will also ramp up the yeast and help it finish. Do you technically have to boil it before adding to sterilize it?
 
No need to boil but might want to give a gentle stir as your pouring it in to make sure it doesn't all settle to the bottom.
 
fun4stuff said:
I would still as the candi sugar is pretty characteristic to the tripel style and I like higher ABV! I have heard adding it after fermentation is started will also ramp up the yeast and help it finish. Do you technically have to boil it before adding to sterilize it?
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Can wild yeast or bacteria exist in a viable state in granular sugar - No.
Can mold species, (UK moulds), exist in dry granular sugar - you bet. Boil it!
 
Can someone help me out, I'm trying to figure out the 10% abv extract recipe. how would it be different from the original recipe on page 1?
 
Couldnt remember if I shared this or not, but I recently did really well in a competition with this recipe. I entered the Minnesota Mashout but did not end up placing in its category. I thought I did pretty well on this beer, but obviously not well enough to place. Then I got my scoresheets back a few weeks ago and scored a 40 on it! Best score I have received yet, and have won medals before. It made the mini-BOS but obviously did not end up placing. Its a fairly large competition (850? entries I believe) so I was very happy with the results.

Besides the score, this has been a very well received beer, with myself and others. Will certainly be brewing this up again soon before I run out!
 
Maybe I missed this, but for the all grain version of this recipe shouldn't you do a 90 minute boil instead of 60 min (because of the pilsner malt, to make sure you boil off the DMS)?
 
fun4stuff said:
shouldn't you do a 90 minute boil instead of 60 min?
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To secondary or not, to boil Pilsner for 90 or 60? You'll get some that will say you should and some that say due to modern malting its no longer needed.
For me, I have never had to do a 90 min boil because of Pilsner malt. I've done tripels, saisons, and a blonde without getting any sign of DMS.
 
What would be the 5 gallon equivalent, just multiply everything by .8333, or just boil off another gallon?

Unless 6 gallons of brew would fit just fine in the 5 gallon ale pail.. hm.
 
I'm not sure the recipe was for 6 gallons, the one I used on page 7 is for 5 gallons. For this I adjusted it to an OG of 1.081 and a four gallon batch using beersmith.

But yes you are on the right track, just scale everything the same.
 
I did this Thursday and made a starter from wlp 500
I hit my numbers spot on
One problem though
I used one vial for the starter
It's Mother's Day weekend and paddies day rolled into one so I have no way of getting more yeast till Wednesday if not Thursday (today is Saturday)

The beer sits nicely at 20*C but there is no movement in the air lock

What's your advice?
 
zamo27 said:
I did this Thursday and made a starter from wlp 500
I hit my numbers spot on
One problem though
I used one vial for the starter
It's Mother's Day weekend and paddies day rolled into one so I have no way of getting more yeast till Wednesday if not Thursday (today is Saturday)

The beer sits nicely at 20*C but there is no movement in the air lock

What's your advice?
Click to expand...

Did you really make a yeast starter? A starter is usually 1-2L of 1.040 wort started a few days ahead of time that is added to the main 5 gallon batch after it cools. You normally only use one yeast vial for starters.

Do you mean you just added 1 yeast vial to main 5 gallons of wort? If so, it should probably still work but is not optimal and may take lnger. Give it a couple days. Check SG after a few days if you still don't see bubbles in the airlock.
 
Wednesday I took out the yeast from the fridge and left it outside at room temp

Thursday I did 1L of boiled water and some DME and got 1010
I added the yeast and started making the beer

Thursday very very late that night(11pm +) I pitched and went home
That's me doing a starter!
I know it's wrong I was feeling brave
 
zamo27 said:
Wednesday I took out the yeast from the fridge and left it outside at room temp

Thursday I did 1L of boiled water and some DME and got 1010
I added the yeast and started making the beer

Thursday very very late that night(11pm +) I pitched and went home
That's me doing a starter!
I know it's wrong I was feeling brave
Click to expand...

give it a couple days. then check sg if no airlock activity.
 
Just finished boiling batch #2 of this. First batch was my favourite beer we've made so far (and one of my favourite tripels I've had). Highly suggested for anyone browsing that enjoys a Belgian doubel/tripel. I had to use Tettnanger at 30 and 3 this time due to store stock so I am interested if this will provide much different in flavour. It is such a well rounded beer that I imagine it won't be much different.
 
I'm entering the all grain recipe from page 7 into beer smith and am only getting an estimated 24.1 IBU versus the estimated 35.3 from the recipe.

Anyone else have this issue?
 
ahariton said:
I'm entering the all grain recipe from page 7 into beer smith and am only getting an estimated 24.1 IBU versus the estimated 35.3 from the recipe.

Anyone else have this issue?
Click to expand...

Not sure about the version posted on page 7 but the IBUs should be in low - mid 20s for FA.
 
Finally got to try this beer last night.

In a word: AMAZING!

By far my favorite beer I've brewed to date.

Sadly I don't think my 5 gallon batch is going to last very long. Will definitely be making this again.

Thanks for the recipe and all of the discussion in this thread.
 
DONE! Just read all 67 pages over the course of a couple days. If you read back 5 pages you should have most of your questions answered.

A few notes:
- Page 7 is the AG recipe
- Candi sugar can be homemade to save a few bucks. Some people add a few days after they pitch their yeast, but there's a respectful arguement on why not to do that in the first 20 pages somewhere. After going through every page in this thread I will be adding it at the last 10 mins of the boil.
https://joshthebrewmaster.wordpress.com/2010/11/27/how-to-make-belgian-candi-sugar/
- This beer gets better with age.
- Make a starter
- Saaz hops are supposably the actual hops used in the original Dragonmead
- Recommended to add some Cara Pils to give it some head retention and mouth feel.


Questions:
1) Where the heck are all my 10 gallon brewers at?! I haven't seen a single person brew 10 gallons of this yet! With this getting such good reviews and requiring some time to age, I will definitely be brewing 10 gallons!..assuming I can fit the whole grain bill in my cooler haha.

2) Starters...lots of people are talking about making a single starter for a 5 gallon batch. Any recommendations on what size starter I should be doing if I double?
 
^ Cool thanks! I actually used a Wyeast calculator online that was way easier than I had expected. Looks like I wanna shoot for about 18 million cells/ml and if I step up two packs twice I will land just about right on the money for an 11 gallon batch!
 
My 2nd time brewing this. Unfortunately friends showed up early = started drinking too early in the brew day.

Good news: hit pre-boil volume exactly.

Bad news: Expected pre-boil gravity 1.072. Actual 1.052. WTF?

Whatever - added a little over 2 lbs of DME....moving on

Only when already had the chiller going did I realize two major errors:


1. Forgot to back out the :15 late addition 2 lbs of Simplicity candy syrup out of the Beer Smith recipe when calculating pre-boil gravity - that explains pre-boil gravity being so far off.

2. Forgot to add the 2 lbs of Simplicity as a : 15 late addition. (Actually it's probably a good thing I forgot the addition since I had already added 2 lbs of DME)

Oh well....Curious how this will turn out with the DME instead of the sugar.

Worst case scenario..I brewed beer.....
 
I brewed this on 6/14 with an OG of 1.102. I just racked to secondary because I wasn't getting any action from the bubbler for days and my gravity is currently sitting at 1.050. Should I go ahead and pitch more yeast?

I brewed a 5 gallon batch and pitched two packs of Belgian Strong 1388 that I made a starter with and stepped up. I'm thinking I may have made some errors during the starter phase because I should have had way more than enough to rip through this beer.
 
What size starter did you make? What temps are you fermenting at? May just need to raise them a little and gently stir the yeast up.
 
I put two Smackpacks in with a cup of DME and qt of water, then pitched just the slurry into my 5 gallons wort. Fermented the first 5-6 days at like 74F then moved the carboy and was like 68F. It had a wild first few days then slowed down. I shook it once or twice.
 
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Uhh yes...On that note, I ended up adding another smack pack and moving this to a warmer spot and it seems to be bubbling again. I think I'm going to barrel age this in my bourbon barrel once it's ready.
 

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