Beginner's Questions. Fermenting/bottling timeline, FG check best practices

[shtaffa]

I'm sure that these question have been asked a thousand times.

On Father's Day I decided to get a Mr. Beer kit. I made the included American Classic Light and threw it in the LBK. I doted on it dutifully for a week. Looking at the magic that is fermentation. I decided that I needed to get a better set of equipment. I got a 5 gallon kit and brewed up some Brewer's Best Weizenbier. At this point in time, I have 7 gallons of beer in my basement and a lot of questions.

First, questions about the Mr. Beer kit:
- The included video says two weeks in the LBK, two weeks in the bottles at room temp and then a week or so in the fridge. I've read online that people are saying 3 weeks, 3 weeks and 2 weeks. Now don't get me wrong, I want my beer to be right, but I also want to drink it. Any one have any advice?
- Are the timelines for the Mr Beer ingredient kits the same for all of the varieties?

Questions about the Weizenbier:
- The (not clearly written) instructions with the kit recommend transferring the beer to a secondary fermenter. I have read that doing this is not necessary. In fact, it can be detrimental to the batch. Would this be something that you would recommend for a beginner?
- If I were to transfer it to the second fermanter, when would be the best time to do that?
- The Brewer's Best site says that if I'm not going to do the second fermenter I should start checking gravity after four days of fermentation. That would be today. I'm really paranoid about contaminating the batch. 4 days seems to soon for me to check. Recommendation?
- What are the best practices for checking the gravity? I understand that putting the hydrometer in the bucket is a bad idea. What are some best practices?

Thanks for all of your help.

 

[KepowOb]

Different people will have different opinions on a lot of your questions, as there are no real set rules. As far as fermentation times go, two weeks in your primary is fine for most beers IMO. And yeah, that goes for both of your batches. Checking gravity after 4 days seems quite early. Depending on a few different factors (yeast pitching rate, aeration, temperature) its quite possible that it is done, but it's usually good practice to let it go at least 7 days, if not 14-21 days, to let the yeast clean up after themselves, and let the beer clear a little.

There isn't much of a need to secondary, it's a bit of a relic from threats ago (except when doing something like adding oak or fruit, for example), though some people still swear by it, so to each their own. If you do decide to secondary, wait until fermentation is finished, which you can be sure of by having two identical hydrometer readings over a 3 day period. If you rack over to your secondary too early, you risk stalling the fermentation.

Generally for your hydrometer readings, you'll use a wine thief or turkey baster (not from your kitchen, mind you, but one just for pulling samples), to grab a sample of your beer, which you can then taste to get an idea of the progress.


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew

 

[Kevin79]

Two weeks of fermentation and two weeks of bottling/conditioning is fine for most low to mid alcohol beers whether it is Mr. Beer or 5 gallon kits. Anything above 7% abv may require a little longer in the fermenter depending on your fermentation temp and quality of yeast. The longer the beer is in the fridge after carbonating, the more time it has to mellow out any off flavors and become a better beer. One week in the fridge is ok, two weeks is better, three or more is ideal but many of us can't wait that long, especially if it's your first batch ; )

4 days is too short a time to use a hydrometer. Period, end of story. Wait at least a week to 10 days or until all visable signs of fermentation arr done. (Krausen has cleared and no airlock activity). Don't freak out about contaminating your beer at this point. The yeast have done their job and a nice blanket of heavy co2 is over the beer to keep out most airborne particles. Anything else that might get in there the alcohol and yeast would take care of. If is very difficult to get an infection at this point. Just sanitize your beer theif, open the fermenter, collect what you need, replace lid, and read your gravity. Record your gravity and test again three days later. If it's the same you can proceed to bottle, if not wait another three days and test again. Feel free to drink your hydrometer sample. If it tastes like flat beer and is not sweet, it is ready.

If your anxious to try your beer right away, wait at least a week for carbonation to occur, then you can put a few bottles in the fridge and try them after two days or so. These bottles will taste "green" but it will give you an idea of what you will have in the weeks to come.

 

[shtaffa]

This community is amazing. Tons of information and people who are willing to help. Thank you both for the information. Home brewing has been a dream of mine for over a decade. I'm finally doing it and all of this information is so helpful. Thanks again.

 

[Kevin79]

In regards to moving to a secondary. Most believe that moving to a secondary is unnecessary unless you are expecting a lot of trub from using fruit additions or making a high gravity beer. I personally have never used a secondary will not use one unless I was doing one of the above. In my opionion, racking to a secondary just gives more of an opportunity for oxidation or infections to occur. There are many others who will tell you that as long as you practice good sanitary practices and take steps to avoid oxidation, using a secondary will give you a clearer and better quality beer.

In the end, you will experiment and find what works for you, but for what are you are brewing right now, I wouldn't worry about doing a secondary. There is no strong need to do so, especially since you are leading the basics.

 

[shtaffa]

I'm fermenting in a bucket. The kit that I bought came with a glass carboy and a stopper with a hole in it for the airlock. The instructions clearly call the bucket the primary fermenter. Any reason why I can't ferment in the carboy? I know that there are varying opinions. Is one easier to work with than the other? Any discernible difference in the end product by going one way or the other?

 

[jtratcliff]

How big is your carboy? You don't want to do a 5 gal batch in a 5 gal carboy.... You need a little head space to allow for krausen. I do 6 gal batches in a 7.5 gal bucket and I still get the occasional over active fermentation that fills the headspace and requires a blow off.

You do want a smaller fermenter for secondary, though. since less head space means less chance of oxidation. But since you don't really need to secondary unless you're adding something to your beer that specifically needs it, just stick with your bucket. Do some apfelwein in your carboy.

 

[Kevin79]

How big is your carboy? You don't want to do a 5 gal batch in a 5 gal carboy.... You need a little head space to allow for krausen. I do 6 gal batches in a 7.5 gal bucket and I still get the occasional over active fermentation that fills the headspace and requires a blow off.

Agreed. Use the larger vessel for primary. The main advantages of using a bucket is that they are cheaper, protect the beer from light, and are easier to move and store. The disadvantages of a bucket is that you can't watch fermentation and that they can scratch on the inside if your not careful with cleaning/storing stuff inside them. This will result in the possibility of bacteria growing in those scratches. Solution: always soak a bucket with PBW or like solution over night after you move the beer to bottles. The PBW will break down most if not all gunk and you can simply dump it and rinse. Scrub only if necessary and do so gently. Try not to store your beer equipment in buckets, especially if you use them for fermentation

The main advantages for glass carboys are that they don't scratch easily and that you can see the fermentation process. The disadvantages are that they are heavier, are more susceptible to light, harder to clean, and risk the possibility of breaking/cracking/injuring if you handle it poorly.

I personally use a plastic carboy for fermentation and a plastic bucket for bottling/sanitation. This is what came in my original homebrew kit. I'll eventually replace them after continued use if and when I see any signs of scratches or the like.

 

[shtaffa]

Thanks for the input. If I were to follow the instructions to a tee I would be fermenting in the 6.5 bucket, transferring to the carboy and then to another bucket for bottling. I'm still going to the other bucket for bottling, but if I can cut out a transfer from one vessel to another then I think I will. As I said before, I'm super paranoid about bacteria and ruining my beer. I would think that the fewer times it is "touched", the better.

Again, I thank you all for your input and information. All of this is really helpful.

 

[balrog]

Thanks for the input. If I were to follow the instructions to a tee I would be fermenting in the 6.5 bucket, transferring to the carboy and then to another bucket for bottling. I'm still going to the other bucket for bottling, but if I can cut out a transfer from one vessel to another then I think I will. As I said before, I'm super paranoid about bacteria and ruining my beer. I would think that the fewer times it is "touched", the better.

Absolutely. On all points. As for the paranoia, a good deal of sanitation consideration is good, paranoia is not needed.
I use the bucket, 6.5G, no big beers, brew and let it go 2-3wks, no touchy. I prefer to use the glass carboy when I can't stand waiting 2-3wks, and want to start another beer , but I have only used the glass carboy as primary fermentation vessel once, and I was VERY lucky not to paint the room in beer from the blowoff. Since then, the bucket is it for primary, period.

As for measuring SG, after 2-3wks I have only once not been at expected FG, I wanted to brew again then so I racked to secondary, which roused the yeast I suppose, and over the next week it dropped another 8-10 points (English yeast, 60° ambient temp--I kinda put them to sleep I think).

But keep things clean, sanitize anything that will touch it, don't spit in it, you'll be fine.

 

[robertus]

I'm fermenting in a bucket. The kit that I bought came with a glass carboy and a stopper with a hole in it for the airlock. The instructions clearly call the bucket the primary fermenter. Any reason why I can't ferment in the carboy? I know that there are varying opinions. Is one easier to work with than the other? Any discernible difference in the end product by going one way or the other?

Head space. Basically, the fermenting process causes the beer to foam up (krausening, I think, is the term). There's not enough room left over in that carboy for a 5-gal batch to foam up, so it'll pop the stopper right outta there and make a fantastic mess.

When you crack open your bucket, you'll probably see a ring of gunk above the beer-line (don't panic, totally normal) - and that ring of gunk is the leftovers from that foaming up process.

THAT said, I had very good results using my 5-gal carboy to make a 2.5-gallon porter recipe. Plenty of headspace, didn't use up a full-size fermenter on a small batch, and I got to peek in on my beer without really disturbing anything.

I like to go 3 weeks in the primary and 3 weeks in the bottle. Had some good results with that timing. Don't tend to make big beers, though I might try a big stout or porter for the wintertime.

 

[hd333]

There's not enough room left over in that carboy for a 5-gal batch to foam up, so it'll pop the stopper right outta there and make a fantastic mess.

.

Unless you throw a blowoff tube on there. I was ready to brew and primary ferment in plastic and use a glass carboy for secondary. My buddy offered to give me an extra 5 gallon carboy and rather then buy a 6.5 gallon I used the 5 gallon I had for primary with a blow off and then the 5 gallon I was given for secondary.

No blow off I would have had issues but with the blowoff I did not paint the ceiling with beer.