Beginner Grain Brewer

[hoppeningnow]

I just want to get a taste of the brew process so I have a one gallon brew kit from brooklynbrewshop which gives you ten bottles. It's perfect for a tiny space. I'm really liking the process sor far but I do have a question or two.

-When does day 1 start for the 2 week primary fermentation? Is it as soon as it goes into the fermenter and hook up the blow-off or is it 2-3 days later when you change to the airlock?

-Coopers kits come with regular twist-off bottles for the conditioning. Have any of you tried that with grain or extract brewing?

-Since I only get 10 bottles, I'm looking for .33L swingtops. Buying beer that comes out of those are expensive. Anyone have any suggestions? Or, am I crazy and should I just get a capper? If so, which one?

 

[MalFet]

1) They're telling you two weeks just because it will "usually" be enough time. In reality, the way to know if a beer is done fermenting is to take its gravity reading with a hydrometer. Many people on this board leave their beer fermenting 3-4 weeks. That said, the switch between the blow-off and the airlock doesn't really mean anything to the beer. Your fermentation is happening from the moment you pitch your yeast. Be careful, though. I would be very hesitateant to blindly bottle after two weeks, especially if you aren't controlling temperature.

2) Meaning plastic twist off bottles? Sure, plenty of people use them. I don't like them just because they seem to degrade after a couple of uses.

3) You can try to hit up the recycling depots. There's on operating in an empty lot on 125th street (near lexington, I think) that sometimes has weird bottles, but there are no guarantees. Fischer beer is the only beer I can find in New York with brown swing tops. But I'd just buy a capper if I were you. The red capper sold by most HB shops is reasonably good.

 

[KevinW]

I have always bottled after 3-4 weeks and never had any issues but to be safe, Malfet is right, a hydrometer is the only way to be sure, 3 days in a row with consistent gravity readings!

My advice is to go to the capper and get some bottles saved up. Even with a one gallon system you could get quite a few bottles built up in a short amount of time, besides, when you become obsessed (and you will) you will need more bottles and have to cap them anyway because you will go bigger very quickly!

 

[hoppeningnow]

I spoke to a couple of brewers at the shop and they said since I was brewing only a gallon that I really didn't need the hydrometer but couldn't answer how long to keep the fermenting other than refering to the directions that were not that clear. I'm just making sure there isn't any activity going on in the jug after 17 days (3 day blow-off + 2 week airlock).

Thank you guys. I have a chestnut brown fermenting and honey sage seasonal conditioning in bottles.

I have always bottled after 3-4 weeks and never had any issues but to be safe, Malfet is right, a hydrometer is the only way to be sure, 3 days in a row with consistent gravity readings!

My advice is to go to the capper and get some bottles saved up. Even with a one gallon system you could get quite a few bottles built up in a short amount of time, besides, when you become obsessed (and you will) you will need more bottles and have to cap them anyway because you will go bigger very quickly!

 

[Keyes88]

hoppeningnow,

I just did their 5 gallon chestnut brown ale last week and letting mine ferment for a week in a primary then transferring it to a secondary as i had a decent amount of trub. i would recommend doing at least 2 weeks in your situation.

I wish you had taken a OG reading as i did mine and it was 1.060 and i have been wondering what to expect.

Good luck with the kit!

 

[MalFet]

I spoke to a couple of brewers at the shop and they said since I was brewing only a gallon that I really didn't need the hydrometer but couldn't answer how long to keep the fermenting other than refering to the directions that were not that clear. I'm just making sure there isn't any activity going on in the jug after 17 days (3 day blow-off + 2 week airlock).

Sounds great. Congrats, and welcome to the hobby. You have no idea how deep the rabbit hole goes, but stick around and ask people questions. For a board this big, I'm constantly amazed at how supportive and community-minded it is.

There is a better than average chance that you will have no problems, and the brooklyn brewshop people were banking on that. I suspect that they were trying to keep it simple, and I can appreciate that. You'll notice that over 90% of the responses in this beginner beer forum consist of "don't worry. your beer is fine.", and that is generally good advice. There's a lot of technical detail thrown around here, all of which is very relevant to people who are looking for finer control and to take their beer from good to great. But, just starting out, I understand that it's hard to distinguish between the essential practices and the finer points.

That said, I would have told you to get the hydrometer, and here's why: understanding how yeast works is pretty much the key to this process. Yeast is quite sensitive to temperature changes, and will go dormant if things get too cold (for example). If you bottle a bunch of partially fermented beer and then the yeast wakes back up, not only will you have terrible beer but your bottles can explode. I don't mean that to sound sensationalistic, but don't sleep with your bottle conditioning beer under your pillow if you didn't take a hydrometer reading. Not that glass knives flying around your New York apartment shouldn't sound a little scary, but the "danger" factor isn't even the main argument I would make for a hydrometer. Having a hydrometer allows you to make decisions based on information, rather than just follow a script. Once you've seen beer made successfully, that's the next step. So enjoy these batches, and get your next ones going sooner rather than later. And consider picking up a hydrometer as your next piece of beer kit.

-malfet

 

[JohnTheBrewist]

If you like the beer you've made, and want to learn the process better, then I'd also suggest getting a hydrometer. But if your goal is to just keep the process as simple as possible while sticking with 1 gallon batches, you can probably save the couple bucks and effort. But I'd also simplify the process more.

1. Airlocks are a waste. Just use the blowoff tube or a vented silicone stopper.
2. Secondary fermenting is unnecessary. Just leave it in the same fermenter for at least 4 weeks (then you can be pretty sure fermentation is complete without taking hydrometer readings). Try to control the temp though.
Fermentation countdown starts as soon as you add yeast.
3. I do, however, believe in chilling you wort quickly after boiling. With 1 gallon batches, it should be pretty easy to find a quick way to cool it.
4. You can buy flip-tops from various online homebrew suppliers, but a bench capper would be better. You can always find standard (non-screwtop) bottles for free. Try going to a local bar or restaurant that serves beer and ask for their throw-aways.
5. most importantly, make it enjoyable.

PS. I'm not being sarcastic or kidding at all. The methods I mention are proven, and will make beer as good as if you had used the more scientific and traditional methods.

PSS. BTW, You are an extract brewer, not a grain brewer.

 

[Keyes88]

MenkeMoose,

thanks a lot on the advice you posted, im new to the brewing process as well and its great to have consistent methods posted by experienced brewers to help out. The directions given with the kit leave out the value of what you are doing. Granted i have read everything i can get my hands on so i have learned the value.

Also to give you a heads up, the Brooklyn Brew Shop kits are grain kits, its the reason why i went with one. Check them out sometime as they do have a nice set up! http://brooklynbrewshop.com/

 

[hoppeningnow]

Just to let you know, I should have read the instructions for your kit before I started. Your's says to roast chestnuts for 20 minutes at 400 degrees. Mine said 170 degrees. I should've bought them off the street.

I shine a flashlight on it once everyday and you can see activity slowing down as time goes on. I will probably bottle after a 2-3 week primary. Did you take a taste after the boil? It tastes great and can't wait for the final product.

Thanks everyone.

Anybody harvest their yeast from the trub or bottles?

hoppeningnow,

I just did their 5 gallon chestnut brown ale last week and letting mine ferment for a week in a primary then transferring it to a secondary as i had a decent amount of trub. i would recommend doing at least 2 weeks in your situation.

I wish you had taken a OG reading as i did mine and it was 1.060 and i have been wondering what to expect.

Good luck with the kit!

 

[JohnTheBrewist]

Wow, Hoppeningnow, you really are an all grain brewer! I just assumed a 1 gallon kit would be an extract kit. Thanks for the link, btw. That is the coolest beginner's kit I have ever seen, and the instructions are pretty good too. Although I disagree with the time frames for bottling and drinking, and it seems a bit pricey.

Without hydrometer readings, I would ferment for 3-4 weeks. The bottle conditioning time should also be at least 4 weeks. After only two weeks, the beer is still a bit green. I'd suggest open one at 2 weeks and try it, open another at 4 weeks and try it, then save a couple to open at 6 and 8 weeks. I think you'll notice the improvement over time.

Also, the kit doesn't mention that you'll have yeast sediment in your bottles. Although it's healthy, you don't really want to drink that. You'll want to carefully pour your beer into a glass, being careful not to disturb the sediment, and leaving a little beer and sediment in the bottle.

I do harvest my yeast, but I'm typically making 10 gallon batches using expensive liquid yeast. What's funny is that my yeast starters are usually 3 liters, so I'm using about the same amount of wort to get my yeast going, as you make for your beer. Do a search for "yeast washing", you'll find lots of good info. I also think it would be very cool to make some yeast slants that you could easily build up for 1 gallon batches.

Moose

 

[Keyes88]

hoppeningnow,

I did taste mine as i before i cooled it and it does taste great! I also love the way it smells while fermenting, take a sniff from above the airlock next time a bubble comes out.

I actually cheated on the nuts we were instructed to use. I went to whole food and bought some pre-roasted chestnuts and tossed them in. i used a few more then the recommended amount but i doubt it will have a negative effect on the beer.

How was the S-04 yeast for you? i had a decent amount of activity the first two days and it has died off since. I'm planning on doing 2 weeks in the primary and debating doing a secondary to let more of it settle and to harvest the yeast. Or i might be lazy and leave it there for a few more weeks and fill my other carboy with something in the mean time.

Cheers!

Question: Brooklyn Brew Shop got back to me and the OG should be 1.050... i got 1.060... what does that mean?

 

[hoppeningnow]

your original gravity was 1.060 before you pitched the yeast?

 

[MalFet]

Question: Brooklyn Brew Shop got back to me and the OG should be 1.050... i got 1.060... what does that mean?

It means your beer will be a little bit bigger than the one they described in their recipe. If it ferments completely, it will also be a bit stronger. There are a lot of reasons that you might have been off by ten points like that, but none of them are anything to be particularly worried about. If you keep up with brewing, you'll get better at hitting your target starting gravity.

 

[Keyes88]

Yes sir. After I cooled it I took a sample. Maybe I read it wrong but it was right at 1.060. Does temp effect what the reading is? Maybe it was too warm still... Idk.

 

[Yooper]

I spoke to a couple of brewers at the shop and they said since I was brewing only a gallon that I really didn't need the hydrometer.

Is that because you'd only have 10 bottle bombs instead of 5 gallons worth of bottle bombs?

A hydrometer is always a good idea, even for "old timers" like me.

 

[MalFet]

Yes sir. After I cooled it I took a sample. Maybe I read it wrong but it was right at 1.060. Does temp effect what the reading is? Maybe it was too warm still... Idk.

Temp will affect the reading, but in the opposite direction you'd be looking for here. On my hydrometer, for example, if I take a reading at 80 degrees I need to add 3 points to my reading to get an accurate value. Different hydrometers are calibrated differently, though, so that's something to look up.

 

[hoppeningnow]

Yes. Ten bottles. I'd have to pitch whatever I use for the readings and that could lead to one less bottle and that would kill me. If it were 45+, not so much.
But it might be something I'll look into later on.

Thank you

Is that because you'd only have 10 bottle bombs instead of 5 gallons worth of bottle bombs?

A hydrometer is always a good idea, even for "old timers" like me.

 

[Rasinete17]

I started brewing when I received an kit from Brooklyn Brew Shop for Christmas. The first kit I brewed was their IPA. It turned out great. I have also brewed/bottled their Chocolate Maple Porter which should be ready in a week or two. For beginners, this is an amazing kit. I have the one gallon kit. The first time I brewed I had more wort after the boil than would fit in my gallon fermentor. Second time I brewed I took a glass jug (bulk texas pete bottle, washed of course) which holds an additional 2 bottles. Now after 4 brewing sessions I can get 12 bottles. Personally, the Brooklyn brew Shop started kit is great but there recipe kits are expensive and shipping is high. I've started visiting my LHBS that has a great owner who helps me put ingredients together for about half the price of the kits. After my first two brewing sessions I got sick of their mashing process of keeping the temperature steady in a pot on the stove and put together a 2 gallon Cooler mash tun. I originally spent about $30 on the parts (including the cooler and brass fittings) then started reading posts concerning lead in the brass, returned all my brass parts to Lowes and ordered all stainless steel fittings from Fastenal. Yes, the stainless steel parts probably cost me about $40 (~$26 just for the valve) but I don't have to worry about the lead issue (which seems to be highly debated). However, it was well worth the money to not have to constantly monitor the temperature of the mash. Also the sparge was much easier and cleaner than using a strainer. My next step is going to be the purchase of a hydrometer when I go to buy my next batch of grains. After that who knows, I'm absolutely going to go to a larger scale when I have more room. In all my rambling (maybe too many beers while on a brewing forum) if you're looking into brewing your own beer and are very limited in space I recommend a 1 gallon kit from Brooklyn Brew Shop. Just be careful, it's addictive.

 

[Ghostly]

Rasinete17, I've been using that kit too, and definitely like how easy and apartment-friendly they make the all grain process. I do have some reservations about it, though. They seem to be extremely unconcerned about bottle bombs - no hydrometer, uniform 2-week fermentation before bottling - considering that some of their beers are high gravity (their biggest seller is a 9.9% ABV tripel). I've modified the kit by using a grain bag to brew in a bag, and I've been using a hydrometer despite the loss of beer for FG readings. I'm planning to get a second 1 gallon jug, and wish I could afford a refractometer right now. The people who didn't recommend a hydrometer above must've been saying that just because the sample takes a large percentage of the beer.

 

[Rasinete17]

I know this thread is old, but I was looking through my profile and read through the replies. I now test every batch with a hydrometer but I clean and sanitize my equipment before testing. I just pour the tested wort into the fermenter and haven't lost a batch yet. Just my thoughts...

 

[D3Brewing]

Have you thought about using a refractometer? They only take a few drops to get a reading and you wont have to worry about contamination. My buddy has one, real easy to use, very accurate, and only $25 on ebay.
And the best part, they don't break as easily. I swear if I even look @ my hydrometer funny it shatters.

 

[Hopgardencody]

Rasinete17, I've been using that kit too, and definitely like how easy and apartment-friendly they make the all grain process. I do have some reservations about it, though. They seem to be extremely unconcerned about bottle bombs - no hydrometer, uniform 2-week fermentation before bottling - considering that some of their beers are high gravity (their biggest seller is a 9.9% ABV tripel). I've modified the kit by using a grain bag to brew in a bag, and I've been using a hydrometer despite the loss of beer for FG readings. I'm planning to get a second 1 gallon jug, and wish I could afford a refractometer right now. The people who didn't recommend a hydrometer above must've been saying that just because the sample takes a large percentage of the beer.

A hydrometer is good to keep records but all you need to avoid bottle bombs is wait until the air lock bubbles greater than 60 seconds. Given the temp is in the right range for the beer

 

[MalFet]

A hydrometer is good to keep records but all you need to avoid bottle bombs is wait until the air lock bubbles greater than 60 seconds. Given the temp is in the right range for the beer

Yeah, that's not true.

 

[beerman0001]

A hydrometer is good to keep records but all you need to avoid bottle bombs is wait until the air lock bubbles greater than 60 seconds. Given the temp is in the right range for the beer

Please nobody listen to this advice. Air lock means nothing.

 

[Hopgardencody]

Please nobody listen to this advice. Air lock means nothing.

why do you think that method does not work?

 

[Hopgardencody]

Yeah, that's not true.

Why isn't it true? Been working for me for 7 years

 

[MalFet]

Why isn't it true? Been working for me for 7 years

Sure, but there are plenty of reasons why airlock bubbles might mismatch fermentation...stalled fermentations, leaky seals, temperature changes, etc. Furthermore, some yeasts (saisons, in particular) will polish off their last 8 to 10 points at an incredibly slow rate. In these circumstances, simply counting bubbles will lead to someone capping the beer prematurely.

 

[JohnTheBrewist]

^^^Exactly. Airlock activity should never be used as a measure of fermentation.

 

[Hopgardencody]

Well I hear all ya. I've never been too worried about perfection as a home brewer. Just enjoying the simple to make ones and until recently never even checked gravity... just made sure the process was good. Heck I even won 2 blue ribbons at the county fair! just stages in the life of a home brewer. Drink your favorite for me!

 

[MalFet]

Well I hear all ya. I've never been too worried about perfection as a home brewer. Just enjoying the simple to make ones and until recently never even checked gravity... just made sure the process was good. Heck I even won 2 blue ribbons at the county fair! just stages in the life of a home brewer. Drink your favorite for me!

It's not about perfection, it's about not having the inch long scar that I've got in my arm from shards of flying glass that I'm grateful didn't fly a few inches higher.