Begging Equipment Advice Needed

[palobrewer]

Hi guys,

I’m jumping into the art of kegging, and it would be great to get your opinions and advice before I start making my purchases. I made a short list of what I think I would need for a kegging setup. Hopefully I didn’t miss anything?

My plans are:

2 or 3.5 Gallon Ball Lock Keg (craigslist or AIH or similar)

- I usually brew 5 gallon batches, however, not frequent. Main reason I was thinking about the smaller volume is that I could still bottle a few bombers to give away and the smaller keg size will allow me to keep some useable space in my mini fridge.

- Is their any difference between AMCYL and Torpedo kegs?

2. Ball Lock Fittings

- From what I’ve read on the forum, the preferable opinion is to have the fittings on the keg to be MFL. I like the idea of easily disconnecting, as it sounds like the keg is more portable for cleaning or transporting.

3. Tap Rite Regulator (https://www.morebeer.com/products/taprite-dual-gauge-co2-regulator.html)

- Is it necessary to have a dual gauges?

- I have seen Tap Rite have models for barbed or MFL outlet? Does it matter on the regulator the type of fitting? Is it more important the fitting type on the connection to the keg?

- If I had a barb fitting at the keg and a barb fitting regulator, does that mean my keg and regulator are “stuck” together? Would it be better to have a barb regulator fitting and MFL fitting at the keg so if I would want to move the keg around I could disconnect the keg easily?

4. Picnic Tap (http://www.homebrewing.org/MFL-Picnic-Faucet-Assembly-with-Antimicrobial-Tubing_p_5149.html)
Preferable a MFL fitting for easily cleaning?

5. 5 Lb CO2 Tank (craigslist or AIH or similar)

6. Keg lube (craigslist or AIH or similar)


Much appreciated for any help that is given.

 

[stan1007]

Hi guys,

I’m jumping into the art of kegging, and it would be great to get your opinions and advice before I start making my purchases. I made a short list of what I think I would need for a kegging setup. Hopefully I didn’t miss anything?

My plans are:

2 or 3.5 Gallon Ball Lock Keg (craigslist or AIH or similar)

- I usually brew 5 gallon batches, however, not frequent. Main reason I was thinking about the smaller volume is that I could still bottle a few bombers to give away and the smaller keg size will allow me to keep some useable space in my mini fridge.

- Is their any difference between AMCYL and Torpedo kegs? AMCYL and Torpedo are brand names. Torpedo kegs are designed to stack but it's an extra and unnecessary cost IMHO.

2. Ball Lock Fittings

- From what I’ve read on the forum, the preferable opinion is to have the fittings on the keg to be MFL. I like the idea of easily disconnecting, as it sounds like the keg is more portable for cleaning or transporting. Home brew kegs come standard with either ball or pin lock connections. These are male fittings on the top of the keg. The flare fitting connects to the female ball or pin lock connector which you must purchase separately.

3. Tap Rite Regulator (https://www.morebeer.com/products/taprite-dual-gauge-co2-regulator.html)

- Is it necessary to have a dual gauges? The tank pressure gauge is not 100% necessary as it doesn't accurately reflect the amount of CO2 in the cylinder. CO2 is stored in liquid form. The tank pressure gauge only reflects the pressure of what has been converted to gas, not the total amount in the cylinder. That being said, the second gauge will tell you if the tank is empty. It just isn't much good for determining exactly how much is left. You have to know the TARE (empty) weight of the tank and subtract that from the filled weight to know how much CO2 is left.

- I have seen Tap Rite have models for barbed or MFL outlet? Does it matter on the regulator the type of fitting? Is it more important the fitting type on the connection to the keg? The type of fitting refers to how the hose connects to the regulator. Regulator fittings are easy to change. FWIW, I prefer flare fittings on everything as it is easier to disassemble them for cleaning. You can't get a barb fitting out of a hose once it's been clamped for a while without cutting the hose. I would consider a dual regulator that gives you the capability to set different output pressures. Different types of beer require different keg pressures.

- If I had a barb fitting at the keg and a barb fitting regulator, does that mean my keg and regulator are “stuck” together? Would it be better to have a barb regulator fitting and MFL fitting at the keg so if I would want to move the keg around I could disconnect the keg easily? No, the keg has a quick connect. The regulator, CO2 hose and quick connect would be "stuck" together. The barb is the part that goes into the hose. You can either have a barb/flare fitting on each end of the hose that mate to flare fittings on your ball lock connector/regulator or you can go with barb fittings only. I prefer the flare for ease of disassembly.

4. Picnic Tap (http://www.homebrewing.org/MFL-Picnic-Faucet-Assembly-with-Antimicrobial-Tubing_p_5149.html)
Preferable a MFL fitting for easily cleaning? Buy a conversion kit for your refrigerator. It will have the tap, CO2 tank, regulator and fittings required. You'll save money over trying to piecemeal it together and you'll likely miss a required item if it's the first time you've tried to set one up.

5. 5 Lb CO2 Tank (craigslist or AIH or similar)

6. Keg lube (craigslist or AIH or similar)


Much appreciated for any help that is given.

See answers in red.

You'll also want to consider how you are going to transfer your beer from the fermenter to the keg. Your fermenter must be higher than the keg if you're going to gravitiy feed. That's not too hard with a 5 gallon batch but becomes more difficult with larger ones if you don't plan ahead.

I'm sure you'll get many other opinions. This us just my $.02

 

[ericbw]

All the questions about MFL fittings are kind of irrelevant. Any mfl fitting will then connect to swivel fitting on a barb. The screw on feature is nice to have though.

The keg will/should have posts (ball lock or pin lock) on the flare fittings. You want that for easy disconnects.

 

[mongoose33]

Hi guys,

I’m jumping into the art of kegging, and it would be great to get your opinions and advice before I start making my purchases. I made a short list of what I think I would need for a kegging setup. Hopefully I didn’t miss anything?

My plans are:

2 or 3.5 Gallon Ball Lock Keg (craigslist or AIH or similar)

- I usually brew 5 gallon batches, however, not frequent. Main reason I was thinking about the smaller volume is that I could still bottle a few bombers to give away and the smaller keg size will allow me to keep some useable space in my mini fridge.

- Is their any difference between AMCYL and Torpedo kegs?

I have Torpedoes. I looked at AMCYL and there were several reasons I went with Torpedoes and continue to do so--one is Torpedoes are cheaper. Two is that the posts are not exposed on the Torpedoes like they are on the Amcyl kegs. And three, if you have ever tried to lift a keg out of a keezer, having two handles instead of one is much easier.

I never seriously considered AMCYL kegs. I'm surprised they have a market, to be honest.

2. Ball Lock Fittings

- From what I’ve read on the forum, the preferable opinion is to have the fittings on the keg to be MFL. I like the idea of easily disconnecting, as it sounds like the keg is more portable for cleaning or transporting.

I've largely standardized on the MFL fittings, primarily for the same reason you note above.

3. Tap Rite Regulator (https://www.morebeer.com/products/taprite-dual-gauge-co2-regulator.html)

- Is it necessary to have a dual gauges?

No....but it's desirable. It lets you know when you're low on gas, and unless you want to find yourself out on a Saturday night when you can't get a refill, get one with dual gauges.

- I have seen Tap Rite have models for barbed or MFL outlet? Does it matter on the regulator the type of fitting? Is it more important the fitting type on the connection to the keg?

It matters only to you.

- If I had a barb fitting at the keg and a barb fitting regulator, does that mean my keg and regulator are “stuck” together? Would it be better to have a barb regulator fitting and MFL fitting at the keg so if I would want to move the keg around I could disconnect the keg easily?

The ability to disconnect MFL fittings is why I have them. There's no functional difference between MFL and barbed fittings, just a convenience issue. You can, FWIW, use worm clamps to connect tubing to a barbed fittings, but they're not as convenient, IMO.

4. Picnic Tap (http://www.homebrewing.org/MFL-Picnic-Faucet-Assembly-with-Antimicrobial-Tubing_p_5149.html)
Preferable a MFL fitting for easily cleaning?

That's fine.

5. 5 Lb CO2 Tank (craigslist or AIH or similar)

Tradeoffs for a 5 lb versus a 10 lb or larger: price, weight, ability to easily transport, ability to fit inside a keezer attached to the regulator.

I have a couple 5 pounders, so I have a backup. Also lucked into a 10 pounder cheap, so I'm pretty set.

6. Keg lube (craigslist or AIH or similar)

Yes. I think some people think keg lube is like caulk, stopping up gas-leaking cracks. It really is so the gaskets/o-rings can slide into place where they belong.

Much appreciated for any help that is given.

Remember, free advice is sometimes worth what you pay for it. The above are my opinions. Others may have different opinions.