Beer Gun Bottling

[clyde009]

So I purchased a beer gun and ended up kegging a new batch of IPA this weekend. Carbonated the beer and we had a couple of samples later that evening, everything was good, taste and carbonation wise, so I thought I would go ahead and bottle with the gun to test it out. Everything thing went well, bottles were same temp as beer so very little foam when I was filling and so overall we were happy with the new purchase.

During the bottling we filled several pint glasses and they had, what I thought was, a perfect amount of carbonation.

I gave my friend a bottle to try the next day and he said it was flat? I realize that we should have waited a couple of day to let the CO2 absorb into the solution, but thought we could get away with the levels we had. I guess I was so interested in using the bottling gun, I may have jumped it.

Anyway, I have two questions. First, was it simply a case of not letting enough CO2 absorb, that is I rushed it? Second, are these bottles a lost cause or can I expect them to get better over time? Obviously with no priming sugar for the remaining yeast I am thinking no, but wanted to ask.
It was a pretty great batch and don't want to have to dump the bottles.

Any other thoughts on bottling with a gun would be appreciated.

 

[betarhoalphadelta]

You don't need to wait to let the CO2 absorb into the solution. It should already be absorbed. And if you had very little foam when filling, it shouldn't have escaped.

Was there perhaps a capping issue on that bottle that allowed pressure to escape?

I'd go ahead and try another bottle.

 

[FATC1TY]

I doubt the co2 was really into it. You kegged this weekend and bottled it from the keg in 2-3 days?

Did you do the shake and burst method to carb?

All of your bottles are probably flat.

 

[codycodycody]

How long did you carb it for and at what psi?

 

[BrewThruYou]

Yes, I think you rushed the carb'ing. As others said, you should provide what pressure, temperature, and duration that the keg was on the gas. I've bottled tons with the beer gun and if I get very little foaming in the bottle, then the beer stays carbed in the bottle. But you need to make sure you beer is carbonated first...and I guessing that's the issue here.

 

[Golddiggie]

I've had better luck using swing top bottles. For some reason the capped bottles lose carbonation more/sooner.

 

[clyde009]

All,

Thanks for responding. It looks like I should have waited a couple more days to bottle. I guess I got caught in the excitement of using my new toy!

To answer some of your questions.

Yes, I used shake and burst method.
PSI 13 (recommendation for the batch)
PSI Botteling 5
Temp 62~ (my Johnson control chest freezer is in use on new batch that is fermenting)
It was under 13 PSI for about 12 hours. I kegged it in the am while we were brewing and let it sit until the evening.

Lessons learned, patients. I was shorting cutting this one all over the place, in hindsight I should have done a bunch of things differently. Oh well, that's what makes it so much fun.

Thanks again!

 

[Golddiggie]

I see your problem clear as day... You had the beer at 62F and used only 13psi to rapid for carbonate. At best, that will give you only 1.71 CO2 volumes. Use this reference chart for force carbonating. It's also normally better to use the two week 'set and forget' method, where you set the pressure, depending on beer temp (in keg, in fridge/keezer/etc.) and desired CO2 volumes level. Such as 40F and 12psi giving 2.47 CO2 volumes (you can call it 2.50) to the brew.

I would advise NOT using your keezer as a fermentation chamber too. Unless you don't mind putting the beer at a much higher PSI level, and connecting up LONG lines (standard issue is 1' of 3/16" ID Bevlex per 1psi of CO2). 26psi would have probably produced better carbonation results, at 62F. Although the beer would have been warm, which most of us don't care for right off the bat. I find I like my brew best at 38-42F, served into a room temp glass.

 

[caioz1jp]

When i force carb my beer I set the PSI to 40 and let it sit in the fridge for 24 hours. After 24 hours I purge the kegg then lower the PSI to what ever the recomended level is forthe type of beer and pull a glass. if the carb is good i comence drinking. If not then i crank it back to about 30psi for another day. My fridge is a out 34F though so its probably easier for the CO2 to dissolve

 

[clyde009]

Hey Golddiggie,

Quick question, you said "I would advise NOT using your keezer as a fermentation chamber too"? Any reason why? We don't use it very often as temps in the bay area are fine for us, but I have used it when it does get hot and have not had any issues with during or the final product. Just curious as we are always looking for ways to improve this process.

Cheers!

 

[Golddiggie]

I like to have my beer, on tap, about 40F. My beer ferments in the 60-68F range. Kind of difficult to do both in a single chamber/unit. I plan on making a fermentation chamber after moving (if needed) but will probably make another brew fridge/kegorator/keezer first.

IMO having 20F+ temperature swings so you can use one item for both is not advisable.

 

[clyde009]

Ah, got it. Agreed, I just swap out my keg for a carboy, than bring the temp up during fermentation, but it's not ideal.

Thanks again!

 

[Hammy71]

Another tip with the the beer gun once your beer is properly carbonated. A few days before you bottle, turn up the pressure a couple of psi. That way you can compensate for the head space in the bottles. The CO2 in the beer will equalize with the lower pressure in the head space. By upping the pressure in the beer you can help your beer maintain its CO2 volume.