Yeah I was thinking the cylinder gap was quiet large anyway. But I've never fired one of these so it's probably no too far off.boscobeans said:Residue from black powder shooting is corrosive. There is a good chance that the barrel, cylinders and every part that was exposed can be slightly or seriously corroded.
I would be careful shooting it because some of the tolerances may be off. For one, the gap between the cylinder and the barrel (cylinder gap) if it is corroded it may be greater than spec. and will blast a ton of flame, smoke and buring powder out the side.
bosco
boscobeans said:Better safe than sorry.
Yeah I was thinking the cylinder gap was quiet large anyway. But I've never fired one of these so it's probably no too far off.
Thanks for confirming that. My thoughts also. Ill get it checked first. I'd rather not have flaming slag shooting out towards any part of my body.
I think you'd just be asking for trouble. I find it's best to keep your hunting spots to yourself.
Yeah, probably so, some other family members said the same thing, about asking for trouble. Just been strapped for actual cash with 2 kids in college, going over some things I could do. Earlier this year, we had some bad rain from a hurricane, wiped out all the crops, well, except the lumber and fruit trees that mostly were left standing(without their fruit).
boscobeans said:A lot of those OPEN tops were set up (factory new) with a gap around .002 and would loosen up quickly. I think anything in the area of .009 would be OK but when it gets wider than that you are losing a lot of pressure, accuracy and the gases would start to flame cut the forcing cone.
Anything less than .002 (that's even tight) would foul up easily and need to be cleaned frequently.
OMO
bosco
Just checked and the cylinder gap varies from cylinder to cylinder. Most are at .008 but one as much as .012 at top and .004 at bottom near center. Do you foresee a problem with the alignment?
Residue from black powder shooting is corrosive. There is a good chance that the barrel, cylinders and every part that was exposed can be slightly or seriously corroded.
I would be careful shooting it because some of the tolerances may be off. For one, the gap between the cylinder and the barrel (cylinder gap) if it is corroded it may be greater than spec. and will blast a ton of flame, smoke and buring powder out the side.
Better safe than sorry.
bosco
krackin said:I agree, the timing could be off as well. This is a replica Colt Army .44, the Navy model designation is .36 traditionally speaking. The brass frame is obviously not as strong as a steel frame and are preferably used only on the .36 Navy due to lighter load potential. The .44's have the cylinder capacity for quite heavy loads.
If this handgun does check out keep the loads very light, or not at all. Heavy loads are only for steel framed models, it always was this way. Top strap models are much stronger with the previously pictured modern made Ruger Old Army .44 being the strongest of all cap and ball revolvers ever made.
Loaded up my full size mags (left the 10 rounders empty) with hollow-points [tonight] JUST in case the Mayan's got it right.![]()
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I would have loaded the 10's too, just to be safe...buuuuuuuuut we won't know how that would have worked out, will we?
Grizz said:Just waiting on some ammo to arrive for my 338 lapua!!!
Just waiting on some ammo to arrive for my 338 lapua!!!
Nice score given the stupidity going on right nowScored a couple of AR lowers today (stripped of course) for a pretty good rate.
Nice score given the stupidity going on right now
Nice score given the stupidity going on right now
Scored a couple of AR lowers today (stripped of course) for a pretty good rate. Planning to get one upper soon and build up one.![]()
Scored a couple of AR lowers today (stripped of course) for a pretty good rate. Planning to get one upper soon and build up one.![]()
sweed said:Where did you get these lowers from? I've been looking at a few places (I'm pretty sure all sold out), and we have a group buy feeling right now on NES. I hope that goes through because they're hoping to get lowers for under $100. I'm seeing stripped ones between $135-165ish and some others asking the moon for them.
I have a litttle extra right now, and contemplating on buying one, and then building one. I need to start buying mags now I guess just in case!
sweed said:They don't mix, but I'm sure a lot of us drink beer and shoot guns. Hopefully we do it in the reverse order. But I'm a newer gun owner. I love beer, and I love guns. Lets share our stories. My first is a Ruger sr9c, love it. I moved to NH because of the better gun laws than mass, lol.
If this violates rules of this forum, please delete.
Good luck finding mags. I've been seeing pmags online selling for a lot of five between $200 and $600.
morticus said:Good luck finding mags. I've been seeing pmags online selling for a lot of five between $200 and $600.
Tex said:No joke. My local cabelas and cheaper than dirt were sold out. I hear CTD is asking $60 each for pmags when they do have them. The local shop by my folks place had 8 left, all desert tan and asking $50 each. My friend went to the gun show this weekend and said he couldn't find pmags anywhere. Makes me wish I had bought more when they were $10-12 at the guns shows.
morticus said:Good luck finding mags. I've been seeing pmags online selling for a lot of five between $200 and $600.