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idigg said:
I'm new to kegging, and I want to brew this. I only do primary fermentation, can I dry hop right in the keg? I keep hearing different stories from people saying you shouldn't dry hop in keg more than a few weeks, and others say you can dry hop forever in keg since temps are low. I would like to dry hop 1oz cascade pellets, and would like to know the best way to go about doing that. THanks!

You definitely can dry hop in the keg. You will want to use a hop bad and tie it to the down stem of your keg about where the stem bends. You want to keep the hops submerged and keep them from clogging the keg. Some people use marbles in the hop bag.
 
I just kegged a batch of this for a party in September. Should I wait to dry hop it until 2 weeks out.
 
I checked the gravity today and it is at 1.010. It has fermented for 7 days in my fermentation freezer set to 63 degrees. Should I up the temperature to 65 for a couple days to get the yeast to clean up a little or cold crash now and keg?
 
I screwed up tonight doing a 10gal batch. I doubled everything except the hops, doh!

I changed it up going
1.25oz 60 min
0.50 oz 30 min
0.25 flameout.

I'm going to taste it before it goes into the keg and will dry hop accordingly.

Suggestions on amount to get me back to what it should be?
I also used Wyeast 1056 ale instead of nottingham, never been a huge dry yeast guy.

Overall, pretty happy with the results. Lookin forward to tasting it!
 
I'm planning on brewing the extract version of this soon, but the lhbs didn't have any munich lme, so I'm just going to replace it with additional pale lme. Obviously this will produce a different beer, but I'm curious in what ways. I plan on brewing the correct recipe in the future, but I'd still like to know what would be different without the munich lme.
 
I screwed up tonight doing a 10gal batch. I doubled everything except the hops, doh!

I changed it up going
1.25oz 60 min
0.50 oz 30 min
0.25 flameout.

I'm going to taste it before it goes into the keg and will dry hop accordingly.

Suggestions on amount to get me back to what it should be?
I also used Wyeast 1056 ale instead of nottingham, never been a huge dry yeast guy.

Overall, pretty happy with the results. Lookin forward to tasting it!

You know, this probably sounds like a joke, but I made this 3 weeks ago and I HALVED everything but the hops. Yes, I doubled the batch size but only milled for a single batch. Between adding some DME I had sitting around and boiling for 3 hours, I did salvage it.
 
I need some help picking out the right base malt... Northern Brewer stocks Rahr 2 Row Pale malt and Rahr Pale Ale malt. I'm under the impression the Rahr Pale Ale malt is 2 row as well, so I'm confused on which one I get???
 
I need some help picking out the right base malt... Northern Brewer stocks Rahr 2 Row Pale malt and Rahr Pale Ale malt. I'm under the impression the Rahr Pale Ale malt is 2 row as well, so I'm confused on which one I get???

They are probably the same. Most malt is 2 row unless it explicitly says 6 row.
 
Definitely not the same, at least there in 2 different bins and two different prices.

rahr 2 row pale - http://www.northernbrewer.com/default/rahr-2-row.html
rahr pale ale malt - http://www.northernbrewer.com/default/rahr-pale-ale.html

I'm perplexed!

Calling a specific malt "2-row" just sucks because, like pointed out earlier, all unmalted barley is either 2-row or 6-row. Both of the malts you listed are 2-row.

From those links, it's clear that the "2-row" is much lighter in color (1.7L) than the pale malt (3-4L).

So, their "2-row" is very close to their pilsner malt, which is even lighter.
 
So should I use a 1.7L 2-row or a 3-4L 2-row for this recipe? I don't want to mess it up, I'm trying to be exact as my last few batches were sub-par!
 
generally speaking, plain old "two-row" is your lightest base malt for ales..."pale ale malt" is also a base malt, but a tad darker and slightly richer flavor (think of maris otter)...it's understood that they're both two-row, but that's just how the names go...
 
So should I use a 1.7L 2-row or a 3-4L 2-row for this recipe? I don't want to mess it up, I'm trying to be exact as my last few batches were sub-par!

I'm guessing this recipe is the lighter 2-row and not "pale ale malt", although Edwort would have to say for sure.

Most people just use two row in their recipes, and add Vienna, crystal, munich, and other malts to get where they want it.

I bought a 50 lb. sack of Pale Ale Malt once, and used it pretty much interchangeably with std. 2-row. It makes a little difference in some beers, others not as much.
 
While we are on the topic og pale malt, is it possible that one 2-row pale malt can have significantly lower potential than another 2-row ?

Reason I ask is I have switched over to a local organic maltster (buy local- right?), and my efficiency seems to have gone south..(from 65ish to 50-55ish)

.I think I will try some Maris Otter in my mill to see if I get the same results.. I just can't think of anything that has changed besides my base malt..
 
Dryhopped with 2 oz cascades for 10 gal batch to salvage my accidental lack of boil hops. Plan on leaving it there for a week then cold crashing/kegging. Wish me luck...
 
Brewed this up on Sunday as my first all grain batch. I scaled it down to 2.5 gallons and did it in my kitchen as a warm up for my first outdoor all grain batch on my SQ14. Everything went smoothly up until I misremembered the OG and diluted it down to about 1.040. Should turn out well even with my brain fart.
 
I am going to fly sparge a 10 gallon batch of this in a few weeks. This is going to be my first 10 gallon batch. Should I just double the ingreients in the reciept?

I am brewing with a buddy thats a pro so I shouldn't make too many mistakes. I just want to show up with correct amounts of grain and hops.

Sorry if this has been talked about in the thread... way too many pages to research.

Thanks:ban:
 
I kegged this the other day, I liked it but thought it needed an extra little something so I used an ounce of some whole leaf Santiam my brother gave me a while back. I didn't know what to use them with, and this recipe seemed pretty basic, so I thought I would throw them in to see what kind of flavor (if any)/aroma they would give to it.

Anyone ever use Santiam hops for a dry hop addition?
 
I am in love with this beer. All I have done to change it is add a little coriander and some orange peel. This will be a mainstay in my house. This may be my favorite beer. Sessionable, poundable, and refreshing. The wonderful creamy head and lacing are excellent as well!!
 
I just brewed this 9 days ago. My OG was 1.046 and now i'm at 1.007. It tastes great already. I guess it's normal to get a gravity reading of 1.007 with this beer???
 
1.007 isn't out the question, depending on the yeast strain, fermentation temps, and process. I brewed a split batch of this with 3 different yeast strains and they all finished at 1.008 or 1.009.
 
I brewed this beer for the first time a couple of weeks ago. I used a full pound of caramel 10 and 3oz of cascades. After 10 days in primary, I crash cooled it for three days. Today, I put in the keg and it is carbing up right now. The hydro sample was pretty tasty...
 
I'm starting to really like this beer! I'm definitely happy I dry hopped it with an ounce of Santiam too! While it was good before, it is even tastier now!!!
 
I have recycled Safale-05, but it's from a nut brown. Should I only use it for ambers or darker or would it be okay for this?
 
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