American Pale Ale Bee Cave Brewery Haus Pale Ale
- Thread starter EdWort
- Start date
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Pale ale malt is 2 row. You'll be fine.
Oh yeah, I know. I think it's 3.5 L and regular American 2-row is like 1.5 L. I guess I'll have a bit more color, but flavor shouldn't be effected very much.
I just bought a sack of pale; it's 3 SRM instead of 2, or so GW claims. So it's a little more like British than the standard 2-row. I plan to use it in all of my recipes where 2-row is specified.
Dry hops(slight mod) are just about done on my first try on this recipe. I'm moving to cold stabilization tomorrow, so I gotta empty the keg this weekend....
Rich
I just bought a sack of pale; it's 3 SRM instead of 2, or so GW claims. So it's a little more like British than the standard 2-row. I plan to use it in all of my recipes where 2-row is specified.
Dry hops(slight mod) are just about done on my first try on this recipe. I'm moving to cold stabilization tomorrow, so I gotta empty the keg this weekend....
Rich
Did you dry hop with cascades too?
Tried this as my first all-grain attempt and it came out pretty well! I brewed it up about 2-3 months ago and then had to let it sit in the bottles due to work. Cracked one open today and it was pretty good-even SWMBO liked it. However...it does have a little bitter aftertaste-maybe just a little bite of hops as you swallow, which she asked if I could adjust. So, given that neither one of us are real hop heads (yet), here's my question: If I switched to a milder hops like Williamette or Fuggles, would that tone it down a little? Or will those hops be funky in a pale ale. I'm still a noob, so I'm curious what your opinions are. Thanks!
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Prionburger
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With bittering units being the same, a milder flavored hop will give you the same bitterness. The main thing about the cascade hops is citrus flavor. Milder hops like Willamette can give you the same bitterness, but a more subtle, floral/earthy/spicy aroma instead of the citrus.
Here's how I would adjust it: You can reduce the perception of bitterness is to increase the sweetness. This can be done by changing the yeast to a less attenuative one, like california V. It can also be done by raising the mash temperature, which converts the grains into more long-chain un-fermentable sugars. Raising the mash temperature is what I would start with.
I would also use the Rager fomula to calculate your IBU's accurately. If mash temperatures don't balance it enough towards malty sweetness, you could move some of the hop additions a bit later in the boil, and play with the formula to slightly reduce your IBUs.
Here's how I would adjust it: You can reduce the perception of bitterness is to increase the sweetness. This can be done by changing the yeast to a less attenuative one, like california V. It can also be done by raising the mash temperature, which converts the grains into more long-chain un-fermentable sugars. Raising the mash temperature is what I would start with.
I would also use the Rager fomula to calculate your IBU's accurately. If mash temperatures don't balance it enough towards malty sweetness, you could move some of the hop additions a bit later in the boil, and play with the formula to slightly reduce your IBUs.
Yum. How many oz did you use?
I used 1 oz.
Awesome. I may try that.
sbushwhacker
Active Member
Just wondering anybody's thoughts here, thinking of substituting 6row brewers malt and Hi-dri. I have a lot on hand to use up!
philrose
Well-Known Member
brew gods: bless this recipe. It broke me out of my kegging slump.
Alright, I'm planning on making this tonight, but I'm wondering if anyone has done exactly what Ed says to do here.
I typically follow my own calculations, but this just sounds too easy. If it works, I'd like to usei it. Has anyone used it with success?
I typically follow my own calculations, but this just sounds too easy. If it works, I'd like to usei it. Has anyone used it with success?
I haven't done "exactly" like this, but there must be a hundred paths to mashing/sparging. This is one.
Typically, adding some water before the first drain lets one reduce the amount of sparge water needed when doing a single batch sparge. Depending upon your system capacity, you may need to do this to have enough room in the mash tun to do a single sparge. Some software lets you play around with different sparging volumes, stages, and mash tun sizes to see what works. People also use totally different grain to mash water ratios in batch sparging and get good results.
IMHO, use what you are familiar with and works for your system and gets you a known efficiency. Then you can adjust the grain bill to hit the target S.G.
:fro:
rich
Done. I'd say everything came out good, but I didn't hit my numbers. I sparged with way too much and therefore had a diluted wort. My OG is 1.044. Not the end of the world. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.
bendavanza
Well-Known Member
After a few extra weeks, this beer is tasting fantastic! I dry hopped with summit hop tea and cascade. Unfortunately the keg is more than half empty....
gratuitous pic:
gratuitous pic:
chemman14
Well-Known Member
does everyone use notty on this? whats the reason he doesnt suggest a liquid yeast? is it ease?
HopheadNJ
Well-Known Member
Ease & cost efficiency of dry yeast. I'm beginning to prefer a dry yeast as of lately..
+1
Ed is the reason I almost exclusively use dry yeast now. I have found with "most" styles a clean fermenting yeast such as nottingham or s-05 is just perfect. All of the fancy yeasts are really necessary. I've even done 10 gallon batches where I'll use a dry in one fermenter and the liquid suggested for that style and I'm preferring the dry.
I typically don't even rehydrate just pour it straight in.
chemman14
Well-Known Member
OK, I'm going to try this pale and if I like it I will substitute notty for all of my "american ale" yeast beers
bendavanza
Well-Known Member
HalfPint:
1.013 fg and 1.060 og 6.2%
I used Us-05 and used the trub from this to ferment 2 consecutive IIPA's.
1.013 fg and 1.060 og 6.2%
I used Us-05 and used the trub from this to ferment 2 consecutive IIPA's.
Man, that's good compared to me.
I just ran my numbers way wrong! I over sparged by about 2 gallons. My og was 1.045 after a 100 minute boil! I hope it will still taste good. I've never had a batch come out this poorly. I think it will still be fine. If anything, it will be an easy drinking beer that you can have a few of.
MirImage
Well-Known Member
Hey all,
I was going to do this beer as a PM to show some friends how to brew. Unfortunately I just moved across country and I don't have a large enough kettle to do a full boil (have access to a 6 gallon kettle). Would you suggest scaling down or just adding water at the end?
I was going to do this beer as a PM to show some friends how to brew. Unfortunately I just moved across country and I don't have a large enough kettle to do a full boil (have access to a 6 gallon kettle). Would you suggest scaling down or just adding water at the end?
bendavanza
Well-Known Member
Yes, add water at the end. Your hops utilization would be lower without the full boil, so you may need to up your hops bill by maybe 10% (I don't know the formula) or just boil them a bit longer.
MirImage
Well-Known Member
I will do that thanks.
I was actually thinking about possibly lowering the hops a little bit. I have not tasted this beer but some of the feedback makes me think its a little on the hoppy side. Don't be me wrong, I love IPA and hoppy beers, but I am actually gonna be showing a few people how to brew beer, giving them some and the guys letting me use his turkey fryer is a BMC guy.
I was actually thinking about possibly lowering the hops a little bit. I have not tasted this beer but some of the feedback makes me think its a little on the hoppy side. Don't be me wrong, I love IPA and hoppy beers, but I am actually gonna be showing a few people how to brew beer, giving them some and the guys letting me use his turkey fryer is a BMC guy.
