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Batch Sparge vs. Fly Sparge??

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I always let my grain sit in the sparge water for 15 minutes, but the actual lautering only takes about 4-5 minutes on top of that. I'd say the total time I spend batch sparging takes about 20 minutes.

Then, while waiting for the boil to start, I can usually collect 2-3 quarts of wort, which I will use for starters.

You're not gaining anything by letting it sit. I've experimented with letting it sit up to 20 min. down to running off immediately (like I do now) and found no difference.
 
I would have to check my notes but I'm pretty sure it takes me about 15Min to collect my first runnings and another 15 for second runnings, add in the 10 Min of stirring/settling and I'm probably around 40-45 Minutes on average to collect around 7 Gal of Wort.

Wow, that is a long time! What happens if you run off faster? Does it get stuck?
 
I batch sparge but do it slightly differently - something I read in an article somewhere.
I do a double sparge, meaning that I add water a third time. I calculate my initial strike water to my desired water to grain ratio and expected first run-off. The remaining sparge water is divided into two separate sparges. I let each of the two sparges sit for 15 minutes and recirculate with my pump during the last few minutes.
I have had efficiencies over 85% but average around 80% - which is good enough but I think the efficiency is as much a factor of the grain and crush than my method.

It's your beer and your time, but based on my experience you're not gaining anything.
 
Wow, that is a long time! What happens if you run off faster? Does it get stuck?

Yep! If I open up my valve more than half way, I get a stuck sparge. The grain bed feels like a brick when I go to stir it up. Which is why it takes me so long.
 
It's your beer and your time, but based on my experience you're not gaining anything.

I have wondered what the difference would be with less time. My method came from an article I read (can't remember where) and has worked very well for me so far. Since I just finished my new brew sculpture with pumps, I was thinking about trying a shorter time with the batch sparges and doing just a few minutes of recirculating. I would definitely like to save 20-30 minutes during my brew day.
Ultimately, as long as my beer tastes good, I am not overly concerned with the difference between a few percent difference in efficiency! :D
 
Based on the testing I've done with my system, you might gain 2 points with a double sparge. To me, it's not worth it.
 
I've experienced the difference reflected in Kai's chart here:

Batch_sparging_grain_weight.gif


During the time I was trying to evaluate methods, it mattered to me to verify the differences (before I thought about the ability to calculated the way Kai has). At this point, I'm relatively satisfied that I know what to expect and therefore brew like Denny does when I batch sparge. One sparge (two distinct runnings) is fine with me. It saves about 15 minutes.
 
It would appear from the chart that there is only 2-3 percent increase in efficiency with the second sparge but I could save 15-20 minutes. 2-3 percent is about the equivalent of 25 cents worth of grain in a 5 gallon batch. Sounds like a reasonable trade off to me. Thanks Denny and Bobby!
 
Ken Schwartz, the guy I learned about batch sparging from, used to always mention the law of diminishing returns when deciding on a brew procedure. They're words that I've taken to heart the last 13 years.
 
does the sparge get stuck due to the grain crush? or is it more a factor the MT?


Yep! If I open up my valve more than half way, I get a stuck sparge. The grain bed feels like a brick when I go to stir it up. Which is why it takes me so long.
 
does the sparge get stuck due to the grain crush? or is it more a factor the MT?

Not sure what the issue is actually. I made a kolsch this past weekend and decided to open the valve all the way (I used about 1/4 lb rice hulls) once the grain bed appeared set. It stuck within a minute. SO I stirred the grain bed and let set another 10 minutes and sparged as normal with no issues. I use the same set up as many others (SS Braided line from Hot water heater hose). As long as I don't open my valve all the way, I'm usually ok. Its really no big deal, my entire brew day lasts about 4.5 hours so Its not like it takes me all day to make beer because my sparge isn't as fast as I would like it. I get great efficiency so, it is what it is :)
 
My old setup would compact a grain bed like cement if I drained to fast, and it was a pvc manifold. Crushed at .038 with a barley crusher, 80% efficiency. It took me 30-40 minutes to get to boil.

_
 
I made many batches with a double batch sparge and a mash out. Most batches were 85% but a few were over 90%. I tightened my mill and with a single sparge no mash out I get the same extract.

I had problems with compaction of the grain bed when I fly sparged with a false bottom. It's not been a problem after I made my bigger Coleman extreme set up and started batch sparging.

I haven't timed it but I probably get 50 quarts within 20 minutes or so. If I think I may have a particularly sticky grist I may slow it down to 30. I haven't needed rices hulls.
 
i have always fly sparged. 10g igloo with stainless false bottom...i love it and would never change...never had a stuck sparge in 30+ batches...both work.
 
I had been a fly sparger for many years, because that's how I learned to brew. With my recent setup with a round cooler and false bottom I couldn't ever get over 65% efficiency.

I gritted my teeth one day and tried a batch sparge on my system. Since then I've never gotten less than 75% efficiency.

I'll be more than glad to sell or trade my sparge arm setup.....I'm not going back to fly sparging.
 
I used to fly sparge too, my last few batches I took a leap and bach sparged. I always thought it a PITA to adjust flow rate on both MT and HLT to get it right. I haven't missed that part of it.
 
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