Basement ventilation

[Abrayton]

I’m looking for advice and recommendations on installing a hood and vent fan out the side wall between the floor joists that are between the ducting and the radon pipe. It would have to vent horizontally out the side wall. I’m switching to all electric, so venting steam is my only goal. Also, I’d be moving the yellow freezer and brewing in that spot, so any duct run would be very short. And this is in the basement so a vertical run is not an option. Thanks in advance.

 

[Wables]

What is on the exterior? I’m in the middle of the same project…cut the hole on Sunday. I’ll post some pictures in an hour.

 

[Wables]

What is on the exterior? I’m in the middle of the same project…cut the hole on Sunday. I’ll post some pictures in an hour.

I used a 6” inline duct with a speed boot and 6” exterior vent cover. Take a long drill bit, I used like 3/16 x 8”, and drill from the inside to the outside at the center of where you want the pipe to go. Cut the siding at the proper size for your vent cover centered on the hole. You should have a square of plywood showing. Use a cool whip container or similar to mark the hole for the pipe, and cut out with a narrow saws all blade a bit oversized. After installation seal the inside with spray foam and the outside with caulk. For power I wired an outlet next to the fan to a switch by below the fan. The fan does not have enough oomph to open the self closing vents all the way. Propping them open feels like it doubles (or more) the flow. The one I currently have installed has 4 metal flappers and I don’t like it. The one in the assembled picture has one large flapper. I’ll come up with something to prop it open when I’m using the fan. I have less than $100 invested in the setup.

 

[jrgtr42]

Does that window open? I have something similar and I use an exhaust fan, built into a piece of plywood I cut to the same dimensions. It works fine for exhaust, as long I have airflow for a draft coming in.
Pro is that it's way simpler, con is that I have to take it in and out every time I brew.

 

[Jaybird]

So I did this years ago in the brewery at my house. Works good but the problem I have is the Fan will collect water and then start to drip out of the bottom. It's a work in progress I banged it in so I could get a few brews done but never came back to it.

 

[Abrayton]

Thanks for the replies. It’s just exterior wall with vinyl siding and the window does not open.

 

[Abrayton]

Does that window open? I have something similar and I use an exhaust fan, built into a piece of plywood I cut to the same dimensions. It works fine for exhaust, as long I have airflow for a draft coming in.
Pro is that it's way simpler, con is that I have to take it in and out every time I brew.

After careful inspection, the window does open. I may go with your method to get started.

 

[Bobby_M]

I would recommend a SteamSlayer instead of venting.

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/steamslayer.htm
There are three things many people in your position don't realize:

1. Electric brewing is amazingly quiet... UNTIL you put a jet engine above your head to remove the steam.

2. The vent fan you just struggled to integrate into a bunch of ductwork is underpowered (low CFM) so you still get condensation dripping back down over the kettle. This is especially true if you have real winters (and I think you do).

3. To push adequate air volume out to remove the moisture, air has to come from somewhere. That might be from your furnace or water heater flue which creates a down draft and possible carbon monoxide situation. It might come in through several leaky window/door gaps around the house adding to your heating and cooling bills and discomfort.



If you must vent, I would put a fan in the window like this, but sized to whatever you need to fill the opening...

https://www.amazon.com/Comfort-CZ31...2c4b9&pd_rd_wg=uhwG0&pd_rd_i=B0118ECP7M&psc=1
That solution will get you the CFM you'll need with a slightly lower noise volume. Crack open a window elsewhere for incoming air.

 

[Abrayton]

I would recommend a SteamSlayer instead of venting.

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/steamslayer.htm
There are three things many people in your position don't realize:

1. Electric brewing is amazingly quiet... UNTIL you put a jet engine above your head to remove the steam.

2. The vent fan you just struggled to integrate into a bunch of ductwork is underpowered (low CFM) so you still get condensation dripping back down over the kettle. This is especially true if you have real winters (and I think you do).

3. To push adequate air volume out to remove the moisture, air has to come from somewhere. That might be from your furnace or water heater flue which creates a down draft and possible carbon monoxide situation. It might come in through several leaky window/door gaps around the house adding to your heating and cooling bills and discomfort.



If you must vent, I would put a fan in the window like this, but sized to whatever you need to fill the opening...

https://www.amazon.com/Comfort-CZ31...2c4b9&pd_rd_wg=uhwG0&pd_rd_i=B0118ECP7M&psc=1
That solution will get you the CFM you'll need with a slightly lower noise volume. Crack open a window elsewhere for incoming air.

I like the idea of the steam slayer, my only real concern is that I would be brewing 15 feet from my utility sink.

 

[Deadalus]

So I did this years ago in the brewery at my house. Works good but the problem I have is the Fan will collect water and then start to drip out of the bottom. It's a work in progress I banged it in so I could get a few brews done but never came back to it. View attachment 743977

I've been planning on doing that as a hood! How'd it go cutting the keg?

@Abrayton I plan on ducting it out similarly. If you go up between the joists, that's your band joist running parallel to the wall. Mine sits on top. of a block wall. I haven't investigated whether there are any concerns with cutting into that. That's where I'd like to put mine rather than the block wall, but I can do either myself. (I have a hammer drill and Sawzall.) I was thinking of converting to a rectangular exit port if going through the band joist.

 

[Deadalus]

OK, looked around a bit. Feel free to check further. The band joist (or rim joist) doesn't function the same as joists that span empty space. Band joists are supported all the way around and help to keep the floor joists straight. They can be cut into and they don't have the same notching and boring rules for floor joists. The only caveats I've seen so far is if you have a door or window right above it to where you might have a stud in the empty space between the floor joists, and the suggestion is to consider another bay. Framing wise, for the wall above, I've seen it mentioned that it's not good practice to just have a regular stud between the joists.

People don't always think about the purpose of basement windows. In old houses, they often don't open well or at all. These types of windows are there though for several reasons: light, security, and ventilation. They don't often provide much light, and they can be hard to escape out of as a fire escape, so what appears to be the most important function is that they are intended to ventilate damp basements. If you install an exhaust vent in the band joist, you are doing your basement a favor. Most people don't ever open those windows as they are unaware of the purpose (guilty of this myself). Modern homes too are somewhat oversealed. If you go with a window fan, you can of course decide to take it out after you are done brewing, but you might need to crack another window when using it. As far as fire safety, be aware that these older types of windows are generally regarded as insufficient these days as an escape window (not big enough and too high). More of a habitable space/bedroom in the basement concern.

As far as CO, it is recommended and in places is code to have a CO detector outside of sleeping areas, one on each floor and in other places where specifically required.

 

[Jaybird]

I've been planning on doing that as a hood! How'd it go cutting the keg?

Well I have a fully equipped fab shop so the cutting and welding was pretty easy. The entire hood including the chain welding took a few hours. IF you go this route just keep in mind the dripping from the fan. It only happens when I have the E-HLT and the E-BK running full tilt but when it starts... It is on till the brew day is over.

CHeers
Jay

 

[Deadalus]

Well I have a fully equipped fab shop so the cutting and welding was pretty easy. The entire hood including the chain welding took a few hours. IF you go this route just keep in mind the dripping from the fan. It only happens when I have the E-HLT and the E-BK running full tilt but when it starts... It is on till the brew day is over.

CHeers
Jay

Ah I don't but I guess I'll see eventually how long it will take. Looks like an 8" pipe maybe on the one side and 6" on the other? Do you know how many CFM the fan is? I got a 30 amp system so only one on at a time. I've seen some suggested values but more data is always helpful.

 

[Jaybird]

Ah I don't but I guess I'll see eventually how long it will take. Looks like an 8" pipe maybe on the one side and 6" on the other? Do you know how many CFM the fan is? I got a 30 amp system so only one on at a time. I've seen some suggested values but more data is always helpful.

I'll make sure to look when I get back to the brewery. I am not sure off the top of my head. Did this project several years ago and since then just POOF out of my mind. It does move some serious air though. Like it will sling open the brewery door when you turn the door handle if I don't have a window open or the AC on.

Cheers
Jay

 

[Jaybird]

Ah I don't but I guess I'll see eventually how long it will take. Looks like an 8" pipe maybe on the one side and 6" on the other? Do you know how many CFM the fan is? I got a 30 amp system so only one on at a time. I've seen some suggested values but more data is always helpful.

6" inlet to fan and 4" leaving...
Cannot see on the fan itself anywhere CFM .

Cheers
Jay

 

[Deadalus]

6" inlet to fan and 4" leaving...
Cannot see on the fan itself anywhere CFM .

Cheers
Jay

Thanks anyway for looking!

 

[jrgtr42]

If you must vent, I would put a fan in the window like this, but sized to whatever you need to fill the opening...

https://www.amazon.com/Comfort-CZ31...2c4b9&pd_rd_wg=uhwG0&pd_rd_i=B0118ECP7M&psc=1
That solution will get you the CFM you'll need with a slightly lower noise volume. Crack open a window elsewhere for incoming air.

That's exactly (well, almost... mine's a bit older) what I have and use for my venting. I built a plywood insert for the opening - the window itself comes out and I put the plywood / fan unit in. To create the airflow, I open the door opposite. |If it's winter, it's open just a bit - I'm in New England, so we do get some bitter winters.
|I did hang some plastic sheeting over the brew area, just to keep any vapors from getting into the insulation. I've never had issues with it condensing enough to drip back down, but this way is just better for the paper backing of the insulation.

 

[SFC Rudy]

I've dicked around with ventilation with nothing really working and finally bought a steam condenser. That's the way to go.

 

[Bobby_M]

I like the idea of the steam slayer, my only real concern is that I would be brewing 15 feet from my utility sink.

That concern is based on what; the water supply or the waste water? The supply line can be 50 feet if you want it. The 1/4" OD PE tubing is dirt cheap and easy to route. The waste water can be collected in buckets and dumped in the sink.