bargainfittings.com cam locks disappointment

[Sawdustguy]

Is it my fault for ordering an item that didnt' suit my needs? Yes. Is the item clearly described on their website? Possibly not as well as it could be, okay?

My purpose in posting this was to express my dissappointment with the size of the camlock opening. I didn't say anything bad about Wayne (who I don't know) or bargainfittings.com as an organization. I've bought a lot of items from them and they are a good company.

My recommendation, add a line or two to clarify the size of those openings.

If Bargainfittings.com prefers to assume it's customers must know exact specifications of their items from research on homebrewtalk.com, that's their choice. If they're interested, this was my experience in that regard.

Are we done here yet, guys? RDWHHB.

No.....The mere title of this thread "bargainfittings.com cam locks dissappointment" portrays Barginfittings.com in a bad light when it is actually your own fault for not doing the research.

 

[the_bird]

Couldn't you just drill it out a little? The thickness of that nipple seems a bit on the heavy side to me.

Probably, but we don't all own nice drill presses. You'd have to make sure to drill it real smooth, too, just to make sure you aren't leaving spots for bacteria to harbor.

They do strike me as a little on the "thick" side, but I always assumed that the fact that they don't seem to be machined all that precisely was directly related to the fact that they're pretty damn cheap.

 

[Dgonza9]

As a vendor, I will admit that we should accurately describe what we sell to the best of our ability. In truth, the barbed connector works as intended but the manufacturer really could do much better by offering a 1/2" cam coupling size with a 3/4" barb so that the smallest ID is 1/2" actual. I don't think bargainfittings is intentionally misleading customers. Customers want camlocks and they want access to all the fitting types.

This sums up my feelings very well.

 

[Dgonza9]

No.....The mere title of this thread "bargainfittings.com cam locks dissappointment" portrays Barginfittings.com in a bad light when it is actually your own fault for not doing the research.

So the title of this thread should be: "Disappointed in self for not researching enough before buying."

Okay, fine. But I think a lot of us would appreciate a better description of the item at their site. I like to do my research of product specs on the product page itself, whenever possible. Is bargainfittings.com horrible or trying to mislead customers. No.

The title of this thread was not intended to bash them. I am disappointed by the cam locks because they were not what I expected. Why is it such a big deal to express disappointment in the cam lock barb opening?

 

[the_bird]

How 'bout just "Disappointed in Camlocks?"

It's legitimate that you expected the ID of the barbed camlocks to be larger. I'm assuming you didn't really expected them to be 1/2", but to be more like what you'd see in a regular, $3 brass hose barb that you'd buy at Depot or Lowe's.

You *should* have done a little more research before buying them, but alas.

Still, I don't buy that Bargain Fittings has any obligation to disclose anything else. We know that a 1/2" hose barb has an ID < 1/2". That's a given. I'll grant you that it would be IDEAL that BF (and every other reseller) disclosed the specific ID of those barbs, but then we'd be expecting that on everything they sell. It would be ideal, but I don't see that BF has done anything wrong.

Putting them in the title, though, implies that they did, when in fact your only real complain (IMHO) should be with the manufacturer of the Camlocks. Just putting their name in the title effectively disparages a reputable vendor unfairly.

 

[Bobby_M]

To BobbyM:
I have seen your previous posts about this issue and the related videos, but I'm still confused as to when in your brewing process the flow rate through the barbs becomes an issue. I know that in mine I am almost never running my pump at full bore anyway, except maybe when I'm cleaning the system.

Recirculation for whirlpool is the big one, but I also run the pump full on when moving strike/sparge water and it's more a philosophical desire to not restrict the flow when you don't have to. You might as well just use 3/8" ball valves and tubing since it's cheaper. In fact, why not just get reduced port ball valves.

For real, in practice, it probably doesn't matter much. It won't make your beer better.

 

[BendBrewer]

For real, in practice, it probably doesn't matter much. It won't make your beer better.

True for a guy not completely impressed with the flow they are getting, this is a great place to start.

 

[wildwest450]

I don't have camlocks because I did my research on them, and saw MANY threads discussing them. I have no desire to grind threads and what not to achieve "acceptable" flow rates. Many people use them because their "cheap" for stainless, I choose not to. Not that hard to make an informed decision before buying.


_

 

[Sawdustguy]

So the title of this thread should be: "Disappointed in self for not researching enough before buying."

Okay, fine. But I think a lot of us would appreciate a better description of the item at their site. I like to do my research of product specs on the product page itself, whenever possible. Is bargainfittings.com horrible or trying to mislead customers. No.

The title of this thread was not intended to bash them. I am disappointed by the cam locks because they were not what I expected. Why is it such a big deal to express disappointment in the cam lock barb opening?

It looks like it was pretty well said below.....

How 'bout just "Disappointed in Camlocks?"

It's legitimate that you expected the ID of the barbed camlocks to be larger. I'm assuming you didn't really expected them to be 1/2", but to be more like what you'd see in a regular, $3 brass hose barb that you'd buy at Depot or Lowe's.

You *should* have done a little more research before buying them, but alas.

Still, I don't buy that Bargain Fittings has any obligation to disclose anything else. We know that a 1/2" hose barb has an ID < 1/2". That's a given. I'll grant you that it would be IDEAL that BF (and every other reseller) disclosed the specific ID of those barbs, but then we'd be expecting that on everything they sell. It would be ideal, but I don't see that BF has done anything wrong.

Putting them in the title, though, implies that they did, when in fact your only real complain (IMHO) should be with the manufacturer of the Camlocks. Just putting their name in the title effectively disparages a reputable vendor unfairly.

 

[Flomaster]

I don't have camlocks because I did my research on them, and saw MANY threads discussing them. I have no desire to grind threads and what not to achieve "acceptable" flow rates. Many people use them because their "cheap" for stainless, I choose not to. Not that hard to make an informed decision before buying.


_

I am using 90 street elbow and the silicon is just threaded onto the fittings. no leaking at all. I guess you could even use a 1/2 x 5/8 hex nipple as well or a 1/2 x 1/2 nipple if need be.

no grinding needed.

-=Jason=-

 

[weirdboy]

I don't have camlocks because I did my research on them, and saw MANY threads discussing them. I have no desire to grind threads and what not to achieve "acceptable" flow rates. Many people use them because their "cheap" for stainless, I choose not to. Not that hard to make an informed decision before buying.

So, what do you use with your 1/2" tubing?

I ask because pretty much any setup that goes from 1/2" silicone (or whatever) tubing to NPT fittings is going to have hose barbs that restrict the flow. I can't figure out why everyone is up in arms over this as it's a consistent, known issue for ANY system. If you really want higher flow rate there's no sense in using 1/2" ID tubing at all.

 

[CoolHandLuke]

I ran into the exact same mishap when I purchased some barbed tri-clovers from Derrin at www.brewershardware.com. When I contacted him, he was very understanding and allowed me to swap to 3/4" barbed with 1/2" inner tri-clovers. It seems the best place to start is communicating the confusion to the vendor and asking the vendor your options. It's a pleasure to do business with vendors who are reasonable and customer-focused, like Derrin.

If there is a problem with an order and it's not communicated to the vendor, it seems unreasonable to think the problem is anything but your own.

Good luck!

 

[wildwest450]

So, what do you use with your 1/2" tubing?

I ask because pretty much any setup that goes from 1/2" silicone (or whatever) tubing to NPT fittings is going to have hose barbs that restrict the flow.

You're 100% right. I don't care about flow, I don't whirlpool. I use brass qd's for now, until I can afford stainless ones. They have more than enough flow for my setup.

 

[Homercidal]

So what's my best option when I go with a pump? I can drill/lathe whatever at the shop to make them the best. I've been shopping a bit, but a bit confused over the options. Speed is not a huge deal to me, just want to make sure the pump works with as little trouble as possible.

 

[wildwest450]

So what's my best option when I go with a pump? I can drill/lathe whatever at the shop to make them the best. I've been shopping a bit, but a bit confused over the options. Speed is not a huge deal to me, just want to make sure the pump works with as little trouble as possible.

I have no problems with march, there is a small learning curve, then it's off to the races. I also have a small Gorman Rupp pump I recirc my hlt with, it's awesome as well. Basically, any magnetic drive pump with the proper heat range.

 

[Bobby_M]

With a lathe, you can use a type B and just turn the threads down until you're flat. It turns it into a high flow barb that easily accommodates 1/2" ID silicone tubing. If you want an elbow, use a type A with a street L on it. You can turn the street L's threads down into a barb also.

 

[BendBrewer]

With a lathe, you can use a type B and just turn the threads down until you're flat. It turns it into a high flow barb that easily accommodates 1/2" ID silicone tubing. If you want an elbow, use a type A with a street L on it. You can turn the street L's threads down into a barb also.

Do you mean A or D when using the Street L? Isn't A a Male fitting?

 

[tasq]

OP: You should have done better research. There are a few threads on these loaded with info.

I have mine setup the way Bobby M does with the street elbows and they work great.

Don't blame the product because you didn't read up enough before making your purchase.

 

[Bobby_M]

Do you mean A or D when using the Street L? Isn't A a Male fitting?

The male threads of a type A thread into the female side of the street L, then you put your tubing on the male threads of the street.

Doh!!! edit edit... I meant type B.

 

[BendBrewer]

So you are connecting your elbow to one of these and then the hose to the theads of the elbow? I thought your video showed you using a Female Cam Lock with the Cams to connect to the elbow? Am I a video or two behind again?

 

[Flomaster]

So you are connecting your elbow to one of these and then the hose to the theads of the elbow? I thought your video showed you using a Female Cam Lock with the Cams to connect to the elbow? Am I a video or two behind again?

-=Jason=-

 

[BendBrewer]

Right.

http://store.proflowdynamics.com/modules/store/Type-A-Adapter-Stainless-Steel_P356C68.cfm

That doesn't look like the Type A fitting to me that is attached to the Elbow. What am I missing? Is there a Type A Male and Type A Female?

 

[BendBrewer]

Putting the Male fitting on the hose might be an option to consider. Look at the hole in that barb.

 

[BendBrewer]

Doesn't that look like what Bobby has connected to the Elbow? That's a Type B.

 

[jeffmeh]

Doesn't that look like what Bobby has connected to the Elbow? That's a Type B.

I believe that is one way to do it. (f) Type B (m) <-> (f) street elbow (m) <-> hose. The Type B female end will mate to a Type A if you want it to terminate with a female NPT, or Type F if you want it to terminate with a male NPT.

 

[BendBrewer]

Yeah, that is what I am thinking, but I normally take Bobby's advice to the T when doing something he suggests. That why when he said:

Nope, type A. The male threads of a type A thread into the female side of the street L, then you put your tubing on the male threads of the street.

I couldn't make any sense of it. I still have to assume that he meant to say Type B not Type A. There isn't a Type A featured in the picture supplied by Jason, but I am pretty damn sure that is how Bobby has explained it to be built. I have already jumped the gun and got the Female types with the barb. I don't want to buy these a third time.

 

[wildwest450]

Putting the Male fitting on the hose might be an option to consider. Look at the hole in that barb.

Why aren't more people using this? Is the hose barb smaller than it looks? The camlock would be on the kettle, but it seems it would lend itself to an easier one hand operation, as the weight of the kettle would halp steady things? Am I nuts?


_

 

[weirdboy]

I think my personal reason would be because it seems like there's a lot of potential for burning my fingers on the side of the kettle when I'm screwing around with the wings.

 

[jeffmeh]

Yeah, that is what I am thinking, but I normally take Bobby's advice to the T when doing something he suggests. That why when he said:

"Nope, type A. The male threads of a type A thread into the female side of the street L, then you put your tubing on the male threads of the street. "

I couldn't make any sense of it. I still have to assume that he meant to say Type B not Type A. There isn't a Type A featured in the picture supplied by Jason, but I am pretty damn sure that is how Bobby has explained it to be built. I have already jumped the gun and got the Female types with the barb. I don't want to buy these a third time.

I don't get it. On http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=142, the Type A is a male camlock x female npt. There are no male threads on the Type A for the female side of the street L.

http://proflowdynamics24.reachlocal.net/cam-and-groove-couplings.html shows the same part for Type A.

BobbyM, do you have your parts mixed up?

 

[Flomaster]

partB is what goes on the street 90 OR part F depending on how you set up your system.

PartA would go on your pump since it has MIP threads.

-=Jason=-