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Ball lock disconnect on sanke keg Will this Work?

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Stevo2569

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I'm looking to put a cornelius keg post on a Sanke Keg. I would either weld or nut and washer it with oring.Will this work?

http://www.chicompany.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=376_1_3_260&products_id=1146

With this

http://www.chicompany.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=376_1_3_260&products_id=1137

and this
http://www.chicompany.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=376_1_3_260&products_id=1401

CorneilusBALLLOCK PLUGPOSTGAS IN.jpg


CorneilusBallLockPostLiquidOut.jpg


CorneliuPlug adaptor - MPT.jpg
 
If I was reading the specs correctly the adapter has a pipe thread fitting on the bottom. I guess it would be possible to use a pipe union and washers to fill the gap. Welding would be the better option. It's likely stainless and would need to be TIG welded. I have heard of people brazing stainless but I don't really consider that a good option.
 
Thanks Jeepin. Wish I had a tig. I've read avout brazing also. Why would'nt work? I was thinking about praticeing with my Mig on some stainless. Surely someone has attempted this or something similiar. But the search denied me except a few threads with no results. Has anyone attempted or done this or something similiar?
 
Thanks Jeepin. Wish I had a tig. I've read avout brazing also. Why would'nt work? I was thinking about praticeing with my Mig on some stainless. Surely someone has attempted this or something similiar. But the search denied me except a few threads with no results. Has anyone attempted or done this or something similiar?

Here ya go. Give this a read. BT - Brazing and Welding 304L Stainless Steel I guess brazing is an option. MIG is possible with the correct wire and shielding gas. A TIG weld by a welder familiar with food service sanitary fittings is still the best option.
 
Here ya go. Give this a read. BT - Brazing and Welding 304L Stainless Steel I guess brazing is an option. MIG is possible with the correct wire and shielding gas. A TIG weld by a welder familiar with food service sanitary fittings is still the best option.

"Never weld on vessels that you intend to use under pressure [i.e., kegs that will be used as kegs]. Because modern beer and soda kegs are designed thin to save on material, a modified keg should never again be pressurized. Welds are always weaker than the base metal, and at least one death has been attributed to a keg exploding after modification.)"

Wow. really? All my corneys have welded post on them. Still I don't think I'll waste my time with welding although I am very experienced just not with sanitary welds on stainless. I'll call around and find a welder familiar with this. So it seems like a good idea to either get them TIG'ed or go weld-less with a bushing, washer, and o ring. Midwest has them too. And I found another similiar thread still reading amazing what the right words in the search can do.
Edit: One thread and it was not helpful.
 
As long as you can tig the parent metal properly there won't be a problem from the strength standpoint as the weld is stronger then the base metal
 
It's not actually the weld itself... It's the transition point between the weld and the surrounding metal that is weaker. It's very easy to overheat SS while welding and that can significantly weaken it.
 
With all the hassle required to put a ball lock post on a sanke, I'm curious why a sanke coupler wouldn't work for your application. They're cheap and easy to find used. What exactly is the project?
 
This is a used 15.5 G sanke that does not include a dip tube or tap assembly. A 2" tri-clover cap is installed on the hole. It has been used as a fermentor, but I would like to use it as a Keg. All my current connectors are Ball Lock. I do not want to make this with the sanke dip tube and tap assembley with a conversion kit. I want to find the best/easiest way to install the 2 ball lock quick connects. I believe I can track down a reliable welder that has experience with sanitary stainless welds. Thanks.
 
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