Automated Mash Stirrer?

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luckybeagle

Making sales and brewing ales.
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Hi all,

I did a search and turned up nothing (might be user error), but has anyone fabricated and retrofitted an automated (motorized) stirring arm through the lid of their mash tun?

In theory, would this increase efficiency if you're (still) batch sparging? What I had in mind is something like what my wife uses to make ice cream in our Kitchenaid mixer. I'd rig up something of my own creation using a simple motor and something metal-fabbed as I don't think these paddles are strong enough for mash. I think I could make one in such a way that there is not additional temperature loss, but I'm not sure how worth it it'd be.

This is the churning arm for ice cream:
andrew-james-ice-cream-maker-2-3.jpg


A worthwhile DIY or a waste of time/money?
 
Very cool. Thanks! Just need to figure out the motor bit so I don't have to mount a large electric drill above/through/in the lid the tun. Or maybe I could even mount some sort of hand-crank drill on it and just stir it every so often during the mash. Trying to get away from a lot of noise during that step in the process as I'll be brewing indoors (hopefully). Thanks for the link.
 
There was an article in one of the brew magazines a couple of years back that featured a “how to” on several homebrew gadgets. One was an electric motor powered mash stirring unit.
You’ll definitely need a high torque motor!
 
I've never thought of it but now that but I want to see what you come up with. I say go for it! Seems like a cool gadget and I always used to do a good stir at 30 minutes when I was mashing in my cooler setup. Seems like it probably helped but always was worried about heat loss.
 
Two things happen when you stir your mash. 1) the temperature drops- so it’s not doable if you using a tun that doesn’t heat 2) it ruins the grain bed that starts to form when it sits still and settles.
 
Two things happen when you stir your mash. 1) the temperature drops- so it’s not doable if you using a tun that doesn’t heat 2) it ruins the grain bed that starts to form when it sits still and settles.

I agree with the heating. You'd definitely need a RIMS or something. The grain bed thing is not really an issue if you recirc, which is what you would being doing with a RIMS. Even just doing a vorlauf will set your grain bed.

I've been wondering about an automated paddle as well, and I'd like to see anything you come up with...
 
Very cool. Thanks! Just need to figure out the motor bit so I don't have to mount a large electric drill above/through/in the lid the tun. Or maybe I could even mount some sort of hand-crank drill on it and just stir it every so often during the mash. Trying to get away from a lot of noise during that step in the process as I'll be brewing indoors (hopefully). Thanks for the link.

I really don't know if this would work but you could try a rotisserie motor made for a barbecue grill. I have no idea how much torque they have but they turn slow.
 
Seems like an awful lot of work and expense for little gain. But that is my opinion.

I think it depends on your approach and process.

I'm doing LODO techniques. I've found I get much better conversion when I stir at 15- and 30-minutes. So, to me, stirring is good. But to do that in a mash where I'm trying to limit oxygen contact w/ the mash....

So I've been diddling with something similar as the OP. I experimented with a paint stirrer as a way to create a gentle mixing of the mash. It works, it's just an issue how to motorize it (I used a drill) and keep things mixing in a gentle fashion.

What I want is a way to stir the mash at 15- and 30-minutes without breaking the mash cap seal.

I'm also working on a HERMS system whose recirculation should do what stirring does, while not allowing excessive exposure to the atmosphere. Working on it. Partly there. Have the kettle, stainless tubing in a coil....need to control the heat in the HERMS kettle and supply enough electricity to do that.
 
I think it depends on your approach and process.

I'm doing LODO techniques. I've found I get much better conversion when I stir at 15- and 30-minutes. So, to me, stirring is good. But to do that in a mash where I'm trying to limit oxygen contact w/ the mash....

So I've been diddling with something similar as the OP. I experimented with a paint stirrer as a way to create a gentle mixing of the mash. It works, it's just an issue how to motorize it (I used a drill) and keep things mixing in a gentle fashion.

What I want is a way to stir the mash at 15- and 30-minutes without breaking the mash cap seal.

I'm also working on a HERMS system whose recirculation should do what stirring does, while not allowing excessive exposure to the atmosphere. Working on it. Partly there. Have the kettle, stainless tubing in a coil....need to control the heat in the HERMS kettle and supply enough electricity to do that.

I haven't really looked at LODO but to me it falls into the same category. A lot of work for a little gain. But that is my opinion.
 
I haven't really looked at LODO but to me it falls into the same category. A lot of work for a little gain. But that is my opinion.

This is not a response that says "you're wrong." More of a post that cogitates on all this. If LODO doesn't produce a knock-your-socks-off beer, or at least one objectively better, then IMO it's largely a waste of time.

I've noted this before; the idea of LODO was appealing in that it made sense. Before I dove in, I wanted to try some to see if it was worth the effort, the fiddling. Alas, no way to do that.

So the only way to test was to try to do it myself. I've been working toward better and better process using LODO techniques. Not there yet, but the effects have been discernable.

Here's the odd thing: I'm not a huge Pilsner fan, but I've brewed one a couple times with LODO. The idea was that if LODO qualities could be evident in a beer, that's where they might be that. Won a small local competition with it, which is why I brewed it the first time, and I've had one guy who's a pilsner fan and who has the best palate I know, try it and give me feedback. His response to both batches? It's.....well, paraphrasing, stupendous. His only comment is he'd rather have a different yeast, but the flavor pops.

Another guy on this board has tried it. I don't want to out him but I'll probably ask him to respond with his opinion of it.

I kind of secretly was hoping that it didn't make much difference, at least not to me, but it does. I'm still experimenting with it. I brewed a beer in December we had three weeks later (an Amber) that was, to my taste, the best beer I've ever done. LODO. I'm trying to reproduce that, have another Amber in a keg right now conditioning a bit. It's been 15 days since I brewed it, I'm getting impatient.

****************

I wonder if some of what people get or don't get out of LODO is simply what their palate can perceive. Some talk about oxidation and apparently they are sensitive to it. Either I'm not sensitive to it, or somehow my beers don't oxidize much.

Some of the LODO guys are....well, pretty anal about it. They're concerned about oxygen ingress through keg serving lines, past the bottle cap, even through the impurities in bottled CO2.

Some of it I think is WAY overkill. But I continue on with my explorations. Geez, I want to reproduce that beer from Christmas.

**************

I also wonder if those who have tried LODO and can't see much use to it have had a flaw in their process someplace. That's the difficult thing about it--if I can't see it making a difference, is it simply overblown or have I screwed up the process someplace?

For me, is *is* more fiddly, and takes longer. I've got the time back down a bit, but it's still longer. I have to preboil the strike water to drive off oxygen from it, then chill it down to strike temp, have a mash cap, a lauter cap, underlet the grist, crush just before dough-in (or underlet :)), as I said, it's fiddly.

In the end, even if it has a discernable effect to me, it might not to you. I've come to wonder if my like or dislike of breweries is a palate thing. I was in Asheville NC last month; we went to several breweries, but the one that stuck out hugely was Pisgah Brewint in Black Mountain. Most breweries offer little I find decent; Pisgah was stunning. Beer after beer.

This weekend visited Milwaukee, same thing--couple of breweries, Meh! But The Gathering Place? Wowee!

What if you thought differently about those breweries? Maybe you'd like beer at the ones I'd rate as "Meh!" Is the difference in those places that in some the brewmaster makes choices in yeast, process, ingredients that resonate with me--but they wouldn't with you?

In the end, I wonder if the same could be said of LODO.

Just a little thinking out loud and as always, YMMV.
 
Mongoose, some day I will have to try LODO, but for now it is the same as a mash stirrer (to me) too much time and effort. Maybe it will be significantly better to make it worth the effort, but I will let you and others do the research and perfect processes and equipment, then maybe.
 
Mongoose, some day I will have to try LODO, but for now it is the same as a mash stirrer (to me) too much time and effort. Maybe it will be significantly better to make it worth the effort, but I will let you and others do the research and perfect processes and equipment, then maybe.

If I wasn't doing LODO, I wouldn't probably care. Before this, I always took my mash paddle and stirred at 15- and 30 minutes. My efficiency went up when I started to do that.

It's only a matter of trying to keep the O2 away from the mash that even makes me interested in this at all. But if I wasn't doing LODO, an automated mash stirrer wouldn't be on my radar.
 
I'm going to post this as a possibility. I was trying to find that sweet spot where the mash would stir enough to get all the corners, not so fast as to get a froth.

It was difficult to do this--I had to hold the phone in one hand while I tried to one-handedly hold the drill and tried to control its speed. Initially, too darned fast, but I got it down to a level I think would have worked.

 
I made one powered by a windscreen wiper motor, it was interesting but in the end made no difference to the finished beer.

It's out of use and just dumped in the back of a draw, I don't expect to bother with it again.


Alan
 
Another guy on this board has tried it. I don't want to out him but I'll probably ask him to respond with his opinion of it.

I kind of secretly was hoping that it didn't make much difference, at least not to me, but it does.

I'm the guy @mongoose33 is talking about. He and I became friends via HBT, and have remained in contact here as well as rewarding visits and beer sharing.

He started mentioning LODO, and while it sounded quite involved, we both agreed it was well worth the time and trouble to see what all the fuss was about.

Since I own 3 Uni tanks, I can do a good bit of LODO on the cold side which is easy for me. I feel the hot side presents the most challenges (to me) since much of the hot side effort adds lots of time into the brew day. There are also hot side equipment challenges which @mongoose33 embraces and has adapted his process. Still.....is it worth the effort?

Well, let me say this: YES - HUGE impact! He shared 3 Pils beers he brewed with LODO on the hot and cold side. Undoubtedly, this is the most remarkable Pils I have had w/o regard to being a homebrew or a commercial brew. This is a professional beer.

Incredibly balanced and smooth, beautiful and clear, yet dominant to leave no doubt what this beer is trying to be. With no place to hide flaws, the flavors are clean and crisp coming off as the best Pils I have sampled....and I've been a Pils fan for years.

Was it his recipe? His yeast? His malts? His hops? His water chemistry? NO...he gave me his recipe and I brewed it exactly as he designed. Unfortunately, with cold side LODO only on my version of the Pils, his beer was markedly better. Twice as good as mine, no doubt.

I am a believer in LODO and embrace the benefits. Is it more work? Heck yeah...but the difference is HUGE. My hat is off to @mongoose33.
 
I think it is on brew files at experimental hb that the guy who wins all the awards does lodo. Makes sense, after tasting 50 beers you are given one that oxygen has never touched and wow, it will rise above all else. If not seeking to win, i remain curious how much it matters. But i think if someone wanted an edge on the comp lodo is that edge.

So a mash stirrer could help with lodo? What about the boil etc....from what i read the effects of lodo brewing can be offset near instantly. Is the real business end of lodo from fermenter onwards? Based on alans experience and what we know about recirculation i find it hard to believe auto stirring has any benefit other than lodo and or saving arm strength. But i could be totally wrong.
 
I think it is on brew files at experimental hb that the guy who wins all the awards does lodo. Makes sense, after tasting 50 beers you are given one that oxygen has never touched and wow, it will rise above all else. If not seeking to win, i remain curious how much it matters. But i think if someone wanted an edge on the comp lodo is that edge.

This was always my dilemma. How to compare? Only way was to brew that way and see if it's worth the hoo-hah.

So a mash stirrer could help with lodo?

It helps only in this regard: I wouldn't have to remove the mash cap to expose the mash to the atmosphere and expose the mash via stirring.

It was a question of how do I stir the mash without disturbing the cap? Only that.

There's a bit of a failsafe in all this. Campden tablets are a metabisulfite (can't recall if sodium or potassium meta, but both work). People use this to clear up chlorine in their tap water, but it's also an oxygen scavenger. I crush 1.5 Campden tablets and add to the strike water; this is done because I cannot be perfect in isolating the mash from the air, both because my mash cap isn't a perfect seal, and because when I stir, well, I'm exposing the mash to the atmosphere.

So the Campden is working on whatever O2 makes it past my efforts to keep it out.

What about the boil etc....from what i read the effects of lodo brewing can be offset near instantly.

I've read that too. I think SOME of the effects might be offset nearly instantly, but when I have 8.25 gallons of water with a 12# grain bill in my mash tun, that's a lot of mass, and not a tremendous amount of exposure to the atmosphere. Plus, I have the KMeta and/or NaMeta working on whatever O2 gets past.

I doubt there's anybody at a homebrew level whose LODO efforts are perfect. If the effects were offset nearly instantly and doing it to all the mash/wort, then there'd be no effect.

Early on, my efforts were in part to see if even a partial LODO approach would be discernable. As long as you're taking care, I think it is.

Another place I've worked on is when I'm lautering. I take care not to splash, and I lead a silicone tube down to the bottom of my boil kettle, *and* I put a "lauter cap" on top of the wort as it's filling in the kettle. As soon as I get enough in there to not scorch, I turn on the heat so as to get it to boiling as fast as reasonable. If you or anyone care, here are a couple pics showing that:

lauterwithcap.jpg lautercap.jpg

************

You mentioned the boil; one of the tenets of LODO brewing is to get the O2 out of the strike water. To do this, I boil the strike water for 5 minutes, then chill it down to strike. The hotter the water, the less it wants to absorb O2. There's also a way to do this with yeast, I haven't even gone there. But with regard to boiling the wort in the kettle, of course, if it's boiling....it shouldn't be absorbing O2 either. There's actually an additional thing w/r/t how you boil--that a very simmery boil is preferred, so as to not destroy malt flavors with heat. To be honest, I'm not sure how that works, but that's the recommendation. Mine is no longer a vigorous boil, just enough to disturb the hops in the hop-screen cylinder hanging off the side of the kettle.

Is the real business end of lodo from fermenter onwards? Based on alans experience and what we know about recirculation i find it hard to believe auto stirring has any benefit other than lodo and or saving arm strength. But i could be totally wrong.

Well, my own efficiency went up when I started stirring at 15- and 30-minutes. That's the benefit, to me, of stirring. I'm working on a HERMS system so I can use recirculation, which would obviate any need to stir. I'm working toward trying to get as closed a mash setup as I can.

BTW, as part of that, once I start doing that, I'll need to purge the lines of air with CO2. Even that won't be perfect, as the bottled CO2 I get isn't 100 percent CO2 (something like 99.5%).

One more instance where it's "fiddly."

**************

All this makes for a more complicated brew day. Early on, this was disturbing to me. I get a little Zen feeling out of brewing, a sort of relaxing way to spend my time (not unlike golf, that). The more complicated the brew day, the less relaxing. But as I've gotten better at this, as things have become more routine, it's become more relaxing.

But make no mistake: it's a longer brew day. I can see ways to speed it up, but they will cost money. So for now, it's longer.
 
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