Attention new all grain brewers!

[balrog]

My first all grain was 11# in a 5G pot, note to self--this leaves zero stirring room. Basically it was a "BIAB partial boil" as I mashed typical 1.2qt/lb and only "sparged" with a gallon rinse and boiled 3.5G for a 5G batch. It really did not take any longer than my usual steeping grains/extract methods but I've been practicing steeping an hour in preparation.

That being said, I can recommend BIAB, even partial boil, I made a Yooper's Haus Pale Ale with some strange "Denny's 50" yeast and it was marvelous.

 

[Trippel-A]

My all grain brews have definitely tasted better than my extract brews. I only have 4 or 5 all grain batches under my belt, and it is getting easier. I know if I spend some time testing my equipment, like how much heat I lose to the cooler before I can mash in, I'll cut a lot of time out of brew day. Right now I still spend too much time waiting for overheated water to cool. But really, the better taste is definitely worth it to me. I will say that if I hadn't already bought my 10 gallon coolers, I would definitely consider BIAB.

 

[masonsjax]

Sure, but my experience is that you'll make a different beer that way.

Interesting. I've not found that to be the case for me. I believe strongly that if more time gives you better efficiency or a different fermentability, there are other things at play, like too coarse of a crush, or not agitating enough before draining. It might make a bigger difference when using less modified malts than the typical high DP bases most of us use these days too. This is straying from the scope of this thread though and has been debated heavily elsewhere.

 

[SpikeBrewing]

A lot of great suggestions/info guys! We get a lot of these same questions. We'll need to start pointing people to this thread.

 

[Crucial-BBQ]

While I agree with the OP, I have a suggestion for #1:

Yes, if you cannot collect the full volume required for a full boil mashing more grain is the way to go if one also then plans to top off in the primary; my point of contention is this:

To the newbie who is already experiencing low efficiency telling him or her that adding more grain, while even though allowing one to reach the desired SG, actually results in a lower efficiency can be a bit confusing. I mean, what you are essentially saying for those who do not have the experience to understand the difference is "If your efficiency is low then by lowering it even more in the end will result in a higher SG".

I think that simply telling the newbie to mash with 10 - 15% more grain to compensate for low efficiency is more straight-forward. As one of my college professors once mentioned to the class concerning essay questions on a particular test; "Keep the answers short and to point. Otherwise by including 'too much information' you run the risk of writing yourself out of a correct answer".

My three suggestions for low efficiency and the new home brewer:

1) Continue to brew with your system and continue to refine and develop your technique with your system. It won't happen overnight but soon enough you will dial in your system and technique.

2) Try step mashing. I know, gasp, puke, time waster, unnecessary... and don't let anyone tell you it is a waste of time.

3) Most who do step mashings, including decoctions, typically report higher efficiencies as a reason to do so. I have read that a possible reason for this is that those who do step mashes have a tendency to give the mash more attention; in particular, stirring often (which, this extra work, is generally the reason many cite against doing step mashing... too much "unnecessary" work), and in general, mixing the mash.

So, perhaps also try stirring the mash periodically.

 

[BilboBrewin]

If your brew pot isn't big enough for the volume required you will need to compensate by using more grain and know that your efficiency will be lower. (You will want to use the 1 to 1 1/4 quart per pound of grain for the mash and adjust your sparge water for the volume required)

Thank you very much for specifying this! I was about to make a post (will still ramble below) but this answers my question

I live in an apartment building with no outdoor access to brew and have an electric stove that struggles to get 3 gallons to a boil. While I do reach 212F, I only typically see half a gallon boiled off per hour. The mash/sparge water calculator I was using called for 3.5 gallons pre-boil, which 1. wouldn't work with my current kettle and 2. would mean a 2 hour boil. My brew day is already long - it takes my stove a while (an hour or more) to reach strike/sparge temps not to mention boil - and I'd much rather spend a few more bucks on grain than spend another hour plus getting a better efficiency + have to buy a new kettle.

 

[BobOki]

I gotta say, I would love a thread that is nothing but "gotchas" and "experience talking" type things like this. I just bought a bunch of equipment to do all-grain and everything that I can learn up-front like this I feel would be invaluable.

 

[DC_Steve]

Anybody have a good suggestion for a nice, simple, "hard to screw up" recipe for a first timer? Maybe something a little forgiving?

I expect the first time to go through some learning about hitting temperatures and volumes and I'm fine with that, but wouldn't mind if I got something drinkable out of it as well.

 

[k1ngl1ves]

Anybody have a good suggestion for a nice, simple, "hard to screw up" recipe for a first timer? Maybe something a little forgiving?

I expect the first time to go through some learning about hitting temperatures and volumes and I'm fine with that, but wouldn't mind if I got something drinkable out of it as well.

Sure. Make a simple 6% smash ipa. Hop the hell out of it with late editions. That should veil most of your mistakes. Lol!

You'd be surprised what lots of hops can hide...

 

[slym2none]

Anybody have a good suggestion for a nice, simple, "hard to screw up" recipe for a first timer? Maybe something a little forgiving?

I expect the first time to go through some learning about hitting temperatures and volumes and I'm fine with that, but wouldn't mind if I got something drinkable out of it as well.

Centennial Blonde - you can even just use all Centennial to make it less expensive.

 

[Trippel-A]

Anybody have a good suggestion for a nice, simple, "hard to screw up" recipe for a first timer? Maybe something a little forgiving?

I expect the first time to go through some learning about hitting temperatures and volumes and I'm fine with that, but wouldn't mind if I got something drinkable out of it as well.

Any smash ale is very forgiving. And even if you don't get everything perfect, it should still be clean and drinkable. I wouldn't personally do anything super hoppy, because if you mask your mistakes, you may not learn much from them.

 

[DC_Steve]

Thanks everybody for the suggestions and thanks to RichBrewer for the tips in his original post!

 

[RichBrewer]

You are more than welcome!

 

[WaltG]

I've seen a lot of threads started concerning problems with peoples first all grain brews.
I would like to give a couple suggestions that might help improve the process for new AG brewers. Here are a couple common problems I've seen:

1. Low efficiency.
I have found that the most common thread here is not using enough water during mashing and sparging. All you need to do is figure 1 to 1 1/4 quarts of water per pound of grain for the mash and about 1/2 gallon of water per pound of grain for sparging.
I think some folks are concerned about too much wort volume when they are figuring how much water to use but if you want decent efficiency you have to use the correct amount of water.
If your brew pot isn't big enough for the volume required you will need to compensate by using more grain and know that your efficiency will be lower. (You will want to use the 1 to 1 1/4 quart per pound of grain for the mash and adjust your sparge water for the volume required)
If you have a large enough brew pot you will need to calculate the boil time so you will have the correct volume when completed. Some high gravity brews can take 2 hours or more to boil down to the correct volume.
2. Missing the mash temperature. (Usually low when using cooler type mash tuns)
To avoid this common problem there are two things I suggest:
1. Pre-heat your mash tun with hot or boiling water. This water is drained from the tun right before the strike water is added. Using this method will pre-heat the tun so not as much heat will be pulled from the strike water when added .
2. Heat your strike water about 2 or 3 degrees above your target temp, pour the water into the tun, and let the temp drop to your target. By the time you reach your strike temp, the tun should be conditioned and when the grains are mixed in you will hit your desired mash temp and it will hold longer.

I hope this helps for you first timers or even folks who are struggling with AG brewing.

1. I picked up a 40 qt stock pot at local grocer for about $30. Works well.

2. Most coolers have poorly insulated lids. A heavy blanket on top does wonders.

 

[TrustyOlJohnson]

As for mash tuns, I use a large rectangular cooler for 10 gallon or 5 gallon batches with a large grain volume and a standard orange round Igloo cooler for 5 gallon batches.. I drilled 1/4" holes, one one each side of the lid on the top/outside and filled the lids with spray in foam insulation.. Both mash tuns will lose about 1 degree per hour while mashing

 

[Denny]

As for mash tuns, I use a large rectangular cooler for 10 gallon or 5 gallon batches with a large grain volume and a standard orange round Igloo cooler for 5 gallon batches.. I drilled 1/4" holes, one one each side of the lid on the top/outside and filled the lids with spray in foam insulation.. Both mash tuns will lose about 1 degree per hour while mashing

My uninsulated coolers also lose 1 degree over the course of a mash. At least in my climate, insulating the lid gains you nothing.

 

[TrustyOlJohnson]

My uninsulated coolers also lose 1 degree over the course of a mash. At least in my climate, insulating the lid gains you nothing.

And Im glad it has worked well for you Denny.. I believe what you intended to say, is that it has gained you nothing.. For me, my large cooler was losing 1-2 degrees per hour, and I have some beers that I mash for up to 6 hours.. Also triple decoction mashes that take up to 4 hours..I was able to get it down to a 4 degree drop over 6 hours, so it was a good investment in the small amount of time and money necessary to do it

 

[Veldy]

My uninsulated coolers also lose 1 degree over the course of a mash. At least in my climate, insulating the lid gains you nothing.

One to two degrees here as well (Minnesota), but I don't brew in the bitter cold...covers me in frost [emoji6]

 

[brhenrio]

Curious if anyone has encountered this before. Just did my first all grain with a new set up. Put altogether about 10 gallons of water through the mash tun. Only wound up with 3 gallons in the fermenter after completing the boil. I was in way too much of a rush so I may not have rinsed my mash good enough. How much water loss to grains is normal? I used a 9 lb grain bill.

 

[Veldy]

Curious if anyone has encountered this before. Just did my first all grain with a new set up. Put altogether about 10 gallons of water through the mash tun. Only wound up with 3 gallons in the fermenter after completing the boil. I was in way too much of a rush so I may not have rinsed my mash good enough. How much water loss to grains is normal? I used a 9 lb grain bill.

I was just brewing with a friend of mine who was decocting a bohemian pilsner and he came up short four gallons. It was a complete mystery. Clearly, it's gone, but not clear where he put it.

Somewhere you had to have mismeasured or boiled off or spilled or set aside....it's still a bewildering mystery when this happens.

 

[Denny]

Curious if anyone has encountered this before. Just did my first all grain with a new set up. Put altogether about 10 gallons of water through the mash tun. Only wound up with 3 gallons in the fermenter after completing the boil. I was in way too much of a rush so I may not have rinsed my mash good enough. How much water loss to grains is normal? I used a 9 lb grain bill.

Normal absorption rate is about .12 gal./lb. That would mean just over a gal. for your 9 lb. of grain.

 

[Trippel-A]

Curious if anyone has encountered this before. Just did my first all grain with a new set up. Put altogether about 10 gallons of water through the mash tun. Only wound up with 3 gallons in the fermenter after completing the boil. I was in way too much of a rush so I may not have rinsed my mash good enough. How much water loss to grains is normal? I used a 9 lb grain bill.

I hope this isn't insulting, but you did say you were in a rush on brew day... The recommended amount of water for mashing is often given in quarts, and the recommended amount of water for sparging is often given in gallons. Is there any chance you gathered quarts instead of gallons for sparging?

 

[RichBrewer]

Curious if anyone has encountered this before. Just did my first all grain with a new set up. Put altogether about 10 gallons of water through the mash tun. Only wound up with 3 gallons in the fermenter after completing the boil. I was in way too much of a rush so I may not have rinsed my mash good enough. How much water loss to grains is normal? I used a 9 lb grain bill.

How much dead space do you have in your mashtun and kettle? 10 gallons of total water seems way too much for 9 pounds of grain.

 

[brhenrio]

Edit: duplicate post

 

[brhenrio]

I hope this isn't insulting, but you did say you were in a rush on brew day... The recommended amount of water for mashing is often given in quarts, and the recommended amount of water for sparging is often given in gallons. Is there any chance you gathered quarts instead of gallons for sparging?

No offense taken, I have made that error before. I had two full five gallon water jugs. I mashed in with way too much water because I couldn't get my pump to shut off and topped off my sparge water with my remaining two gallons in jugs. I had reserved 7 gallons for mashing and sparging. Estimated about 2 gallons for mashing, got 5 before I could get pump to shut off, and roughly 5 for sparging. I had a couple spills, was using a 15 gallon kettle so there is a little more loss than I was expecting too.

All told in the end, I was trying to sneak in a brew day and the misses wanted my help with other stuff, notably the 2.5 month old brewers assistant. So lots of shortcuts and some spills and some hiccups is where my water went.

 

[Trippel-A]

All told in the end, I was trying to sneak in a brew day and the misses wanted my help with other stuff, notably the 2.5 month old brewers assistant. So lots of shortcuts and some spills and some hiccups is where my water went.

I completely hear that. My second assistant is 1 month old. My wife really would have preferred I not brew the Saturday before Easter.

My first assistant is five, though. And as she insisted and demonstrated yesterday, that means she can fill bottles with one hand. These smart-ass assistants these days. smh

 

[zlaneb]

Lesson's learned on my 2nd AG brew
1. Heating the mash tun and the sparge coolers really helps maintain H2O heat targets. Using boiling water really get them hot!

2. Focus! Several steps last more than an hour. - I walked away from my sparging and lost 1/2 gallon of beautiful wort to the driveway b/c my container overflowed.
3. Stuck Sparge - be ready for this event! My sparge got blocked. Simply use another bucket with a spigot. Add about a gallon of 170 degree water. Place bucket above your mash tun then open both spigots forcing water back into the mash tun. This cleared my block, and I only used about a quart of water.
4. When checking gravity of any of your brew liquid you must adjust the reading for the temperature of your liquid. There are many online calculators. Most hydrometers are calibrated at 60 degrees F.
5. Never ever panic, you can recover from most mistakes/accidents.

After overflowing my wort onto the drive way and before adding my 6th gallon of wort to the boil pot I checked the wort original gravity. It was 1.046 and my target was 1.043. I added the 6th gallon and my OG was then right at my target 1.043. Had I not spilled the wort, I would have used the pre-boil volume calculated by BeerSmith. I planned on a 5.75 gallons going into the fermentor, and only got 5. No sweat - it should be great beer.

 

[Denny]

1. I'm too lazy for that. I took 2-3 brews to figure out how much hotter to make my strike water so I don't have to preheat. Saves time and energy
2. yeah, that's tough. How about a bigger container?
3. depends on your lauter system. In 497 batches I have never had a stuck runoff.
4. you can use my Cheap'n'Easy hydrometer reading/cooling method...[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ujUnEZ6GZEI[/ame]
5. ABSOFREEKINLUTELY!

And I'll add take good notes..if the beer is incredible you want to remember what you did so you can do it again. If the beer sucks, you want to make sure you NEVER do that again!

 

[Bmore2Eazy]

Question, new to all grain brewing, wanted to know if using a strainer bag in my mash tun cooler would effect my brew in anyway? Thought it would be easier for clean up.

 

[20grit]

Question, new to all grain brewing, wanted to know if using a strainer bag in my mash tun cooler would effect my brew in anyway? Thought it would be easier for clean up.

Several people use one in lieu of a false bottom. I've seen people claim they use both. It shouldn't hurt anything.