Attention new all grain brewers!

[masonsjax]

Check out the recipe forum here. The Centennial Blonde recipe is very popular, as is the Bee Cave Brewery Pale Ale, which was my first brew. Alternatively, you could brew something from the book Brewing Classic Styles. It has a simple recipe (or two) for every style, mostly targeted at the middle of the style guidelines. Just pick something you like that's medium or low gravity and have a go at it. Good luck!

 

[christhebrewer53]

Thank you will have a look

 

[Mofoa]

I've seen a lot of threads started concerning problems with peoples first all grain brews.
I would like to give a couple suggestions that might help improve the process for new AG brewers. Here are a couple common problems I've seen:

1. Low efficiency.
I have found that the most common thread here is not using enough water during mashing and sparging. All you need to do is figure 1 to 1 1/4 quarts of water per pound of grain for the mash and about 1/2 gallon of water per pound of grain for sparging.
I think some folks are concerned about too much wort volume when they are figuring how much water to use but if you want decent efficiency you have to use the correct amount of water.
If your brew pot isn't big enough for the volume required you will need to compensate by using more grain and know that your efficiency will be lower. (You will want to use the 1 to 1 1/4 quart per pound of grain for the mash and adjust your sparge water for the volume required)
If you have a large enough brew pot you will need to calculate the boil time so you will have the correct volume when completed. Some high gravity brews can take 2 hours or more to boil down to the correct volume.

I am going to follow these instructions for my next brew as I am consistently low on my efficiency. Any special guidelines for sparging/runoff? I.E., would this be just one run-off, and how long to let the sparge water sit before the runoff?

Thank you!

 

[Denny]

I've seen a lot of threads started concerning problems with peoples first all grain brews.
I would like to give a couple suggestions that might help improve the process for new AG brewers. Here are a couple common problems I've seen:

1. Low efficiency.
I have found that the most common thread here is not using enough water during mashing and sparging. All you need to do is figure 1 to 1 1/4 quarts of water per pound of grain for the mash and about 1/2 gallon of water per pound of grain for sparging.
I think some folks are concerned about too much wort volume when they are figuring how much water to use but if you want decent efficiency you have to use the correct amount of water.
If your brew pot isn't big enough for the volume required you will need to compensate by using more grain and know that your efficiency will be lower. (You will want to use the 1 to 1 1/4 quart per pound of grain for the mash and adjust your sparge water for the volume required)
If you have a large enough brew pot you will need to calculate the boil time so you will have the correct volume when completed. Some high gravity brews can take 2 hours or more to boil down to the correct volume.

I am going to follow these instructions for my next brew as I am consistently low on my efficiency. Any special guidelines for sparging/runoff? I.E., would this be just one run-off, and how long to let the sparge water sit before the runoff?

Thank you!

Using more mash water (minimum 1.65 qt./lb.) raised my effieincy several points. But the biggest factor is grain crush. That's always the first thing to look at.

 

[KeninMN]

Hi I'm new here and live in the uk nearly ready to do my first all grain brew looking for a simple one to start me of I like bitter and pale ales so can you guys help me thanks chris

My suggestion is to brew something you can directly compare to, whether that is a readily available commercial beer that you like, or something you've brewed as an extract version and still have some on hand. Brew something with a simple grain bill and simple boil additions. That will allow you to focus your attention on the process and not additions-timing. Make sure to ready all of your equipment ahead of time. Test your mash tun and boil kettle for leaks. Determine your kettle's boil-off rate by boiling plain water. Dial in your burner settings so that you can achieve a nice, rolling boil without causing a boil over. Get some Fermcap-S and/or a spray bottle filled with distilled water in case you do experience conditions where a boil over is imminent. Stirring also can tamp down an imminent boil over. Be especially careful when adding hops and Whirlfloc, as they create oodles of nucleation points that can lead to boil overs. Fermcap, a ready spray bottle and stirring can all help prevent they before they turn into a messy disaster if you're aware and at the ready. It all seems overwhelming at first, but adequate preparation and an easy first brew day will give you the confidence boost to tackle bigger, more complicated brews in the future.

 

[Mofoa]

Using more mash water (minimum 1.65 qt./lb.) raised my effieincy several points. But the biggest factor is grain crush. That's always the first thing to look at.

Thank you Denny.

 

[Mofoa]

Thank you Denny.

After recently creating a Brew-Day Checklist that I can use for each recipe, I think this helped me to stay focused while not forgetting crucial steps. From checking inventory and ensuring I milled my grain fine ahead of time, this saved time and help avert some surprises (i.e broken racking cane/turkey baster).

Days prior to brewday, I calculated all my temps and volume water (for both strike and sparge) needed (using 1.65 qt/lb grain). I added a comments section to each step as to dropping down notes as I went along. This kept me on target for next steps. Once I hit my strike water--we were in business (also making note to stir and stir and do another stir at 30 minutes) and once mashing was complete, I had my 190 degree sparge water ready.

Making notes of water collected/temperature/OG--even noted the time, temperature outside, and whether it was windy or not.

Well, after following the checklist and advice here, yesterday, I hit a mash efficiency of 74% using the batch sparging method.

Now, I just need to work on hitting my OG.

 

[UCChemE05]

After recently creating a Brew-Day Checklist that I can use for each recipe, I think this helped me to stay focused while not forgetting crucial steps. From checking inventory and ensuring I milled my grain fine ahead of time, this saved time and help avert some surprises (i.e broken racking cane/turkey baster).

Days prior to brewday, I calculated all my temps and volume water (for both strike and sparge) needed (using 1.65 qt/lb grain). I added a comments section to each step as to dropping down notes as I went along. This kept me on target for next steps. Once I hit my strike water--we were in business (also making note to stir and stir and do another stir at 30 minutes) and once mashing was complete, I had my 190 degree sparge water ready.

Making notes of water collected/temperature/OG--even noted the time, temperature outside, and whether it was windy or not.

Well, after following the checklist and advice here, yesterday, I hit a mash efficiency of 74% using the batch sparging method.

Now, I just need to work on hitting my OG.

Would you mind sharing the checklist you created? I'm sure it could be very helpful to newer AG brewers.

 

[Trippel-A]

There is something I still can't figure out about mashing. The water for mashout, to get the temp up to 175 or so before sparging to stop the saccharification... is that amount of water included in the recommended amounts here? I just always end up boiling a couple extra gallons during the mash and using that for mashout. Is that the right way to do it? This water is never spec'd put when I have used Beer Smith, and so I really begin to wonder how most people do it when mashing in a cooler.

 

[acidrain]

There is something I still can't figure out about mashing. The water for mashout, to get the temp up to 175 or so before sparging to stop the saccharification... is that amount of water included in the recommended amounts here? I just always end up boiling a couple extra gallons during the mash and using that for mashout. Is that the right way to do it? This water is never spec'd put when I have used Beer Smith, and so I really begin to wonder how most people do it when mashing in a cooler.

In BS, when you check the type of mash you are doing, don't use "no mashout". It will always include a mashout step unless you tell it not to.

 

[masonsjax]

If you're batch sparging, you don't need to mashout. Just sparge with however much water it takes to reach your desired pre boil volume, stir stir stir, drain the tun and get to boiling.

 

[Denny]

There is something I still can't figure out about mashing. The water for mashout, to get the temp up to 175 or so before sparging to stop the saccharification... is that amount of water included in the recommended amounts here? I just always end up boiling a couple extra gallons during the mash and using that for mashout. Is that the right way to do it? This water is never spec'd put when I have used Beer Smith, and so I really begin to wonder how most people do it when mashing in a cooler.

I don't include it in my recipes becasue I've found that mashout has no point in batch sparging.

 

[smizak]

If you're batch sparging, you don't need to mashout. Just sparge with however much water it takes to reach your desired pre boil volume, stir stir stir, drain the tun and get to boiling.

Or if your tun is already at capacity, I drain first runnings right into the kettle with a low flame going, denature the enzymes quick.

 

[masonsjax]

Or if your tun is already at capacity, I drain first runnings right into the kettle with a low flame going, denature the enzymes quick.

Exactly. Measure those first runnings and you know exactly how much sparge water is needed to hit your desired volume.

 

[Trippel-A]

If you're batch sparging, you don't need to mashout. Just sparge with however much water it takes to reach your desired pre boil volume, stir stir stir, drain the tun and get to boiling.

I'm not batch sparging. I am fly sparging for no other reason than that's what the Northern Brewer all grain video showed when I started all grain.

 

[Trippel-A]

If you're batch sparging, you don't need to mashout. Just sparge with however much water it takes to reach your desired pre boil volume, stir stir stir, drain the tun and get to boiling.

I fly sparge. No good reason, except that's what the Northern Brewer all grain video showed.

 

[masonsjax]

Oh ok. So I suppose it depends on your setup. I would think you just fill your HLT with the full amount of water estimated and a little extra just in case and raise the water temp to 168F for mashout. Sparge with that until you hit your target pre boil volume.

 

[Fatdog]

I just did my first all grain batch after fifteen years of brewing. It was an all day event which is ok if the end result is superior beer. after I was done I said to myself "We're gonna need a bigger boat" (line from Jaws) LOL especially after sparging which was very messy. Also need more strainer/colanders.
One comment I have is that there was only one full day of active bubbling once fermentation began. I usually get three to four days when brewing with malt extracts. is this common? I'm anxious to find out how it comes out to see if it is worth dedicating an entire day instead of the normal four hours using an extract. what differences can I expect if any?

 

[Fatdog]

What are the advantages of doing all grain versus malt extract? I did my first all grain a few weeks ago (it's still in the second fermentation stage and still very active)) so I haven't been able to drink one yet. It took all day, many pots and a lot of effort. I have been brewing for 15 years now and just want to know if it is worth being locked into an all day brewing process or just 3 1/2 hours with extract brewing.

 

[Backslide]

What are the advantages of doing all grain versus malt extract? I did my first all grain a few weeks ago (it's still in the second fermentation stage and still very active)) so I haven't been able to drink one yet. It took all day, many pots and a lot of effort. I have been brewing for 15 years now and just want to know if it is worth being locked into an all day brewing process or just 3 1/2 hours with extract brewing.

You're doing it wrong if it's taking you all day or your fibbing.

 

[masonsjax]

Once you get your process down, it doesn't take long. I can do it in under 4 hours if I hurry. The advantages I see are: full control over flavor and fermentability of the wort; grain is much cheaper than extract; it's easy to pull off extra wort to freeze for making future starters without the need to use that nasty DME; satisfaction of DIY which is a big reason I brew in the first place (why warm up canned soup when you can get fresh ingredients and make your own?); more chances for experiments to understand exactly what it takes to make world class beer; and of course drinking world class beer!

From what I understand, you can do BIAB all grain using only one pot. Read up on that method, it sounds very easy.

 

[fimpster]

I have been brewing for 15 years now and just want to know if it is worth being locked into an all day brewing process or just 3 1/2 hours with extract brewing.

I have a similar history, I brewed extract for 14 years and made the switch to all grain last year. Now I wonder why the hell it took me so long to make the jump. Now that I've got my process down, a normal brew day is around 5 hours. I could probably get that down to 4 or 4.5 if I didn't have to haul all of my gear out of the basement to the back yard and back again every time I brew. Stick with it, you'll be glad you did.

 

[oakbarn]

We have been all grain for a while. It does take more time.
Preheat strike = 1.5 hour
Mash + Sparge = 2.0 Hours
Boil = 2.0 Hours
Cool .5 hours
Clean 1 hour

I would say 7 hours minimum with clean up. It normally takes us longer. We sometimes brew two different beers on the same day as it adds only about 30 minutes but we have the equipment. The clean up really not much different than extract as you can clean the Mash Tun while boiling. Once you taste all grain, it is worth the time. Extract now taste "syrupy" to us.

We normally do 23 gallon batches is the reason it takes time to heat the strike.

 

[JPrather]

Masonsjax pretty much listed the benefits of going all-grain. I think they're pretty significant, but going all-grain is definitely not necessary for making good beer.

I do all grain batches, and am usually just under 4 hours start to finish, including clean up. And that includes a 90-minute mash and a 75-minute boil, so I could definitely tighten that up if I wanted.

I do BIAB (brew in a bag), no sparge brewing in a single vessel. It couldn't be simpler (or cheaper).

So, if your concern is time and effort, all-grain brewing can be pared down to a pretty simple and efficient process if that's a priority for you. Which (for me) makes it more than worth it.

 

[RichBrewer]

I like the cost savings but I most like all grain brewing for the added control I get. On top of that I really love the process. I actually enjoy a 4 or 5 hour brewing session. This may sound weird but an extended brewing session for me is all the better!

 

[masonsjax]

I very rarely mash for more than 30 mins, often only 20 mins. The conversion happens quickly and as long as you crush on the fine side and don't have dough balls, there's no need to go longer. Makes for a shorter brewday if that's important to you. This has been discussed ad nauseum in other threads though.

 

[Denny]

I very rarely mash for more than 30 mins, often only 20 mins. The conversion happens quickly and as long as you crush on the fine side and don't have dough balls, there's no need to go longer. Makes for a shorter brewday if that's important to you. This has been discussed ad nauseum in other threads though.

Maybe there's no need for you to go longer, but there is for me and others. There are advantages to a longer mash.

 

[masonsjax]

Of course, but if someone is pressed for time and normally mashes for 90 mins, that might be one place to look for some time savings. I'm just presenting a different approach that also works.

 

[Fatdog]

Well I have found I need to add a third step in a third fermentation. There was so much activity and sediment in this brewing process that in order to not have really cloudy beer I needed to add another fermentation process. I will leave it for a week as the second was for two weeks. I'm very anxious to see how this beer comes out but I've still got another 3-5 weeks before it would be ready for consumption. I brew in my kitchen so as of right now don't see how I could do all grain in under 7-8 hours. I think I need a bigger boat...........and strainers for sparging. I guess some additional equipment might be in order.

 

[Denny]

Of course, but if someone is pressed for time and normally mashes for 90 mins, that might be one place to look for some time savings. I'm just presenting a different approach that also works.

Sure, but my experience is that you'll make a different beer that way.