Anyone tried AMCYL Brew Pots?

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At that price I'd take a look at Colorado brew systems, but that's because I'm fond of triclamp :)
 
There's been some quality issues with the NB pots, so I wonder if the same is true with these pots if they indeed come from the same supplier. The shape of the handles, the exclusion of the "shiny band" under the lip of the kettle makes me wonder if they are different





Fosaisu,

Keep us updated if you get one of these kettles.
 
I prefer the Update International SS pots. They are drawn w/ only welding tmfir the handles & lid. True NSF SS & a well made tri-clad bottom.
You'll have to have someone drill them (LHBS did mine). I have HLT & BK. Very pleased after several years of use.
 
Thanks to everyone for the feedback! My "moment of weakness" (i.e. temptation to spend some extra cash to avoid a bit of work) passed and I'm going to go ahead and drill/mark my own. I ended up buying a Concord 20 gallon stainless pot from eBay for $102 shipped from seller concordcookware. The reviews here seem pretty positive on the Concord pots cost/quality ratio, hopefully I'll find that to be the case!

Next steps:
1) Drill a hole in the pot with a step bit, and install a weldless ball valve.
2) Add internal vol. markings
 
Thanks to everyone for the feedback! My "moment of weakness" (i.e. temptation to spend some extra cash to avoid a bit of work) passed and I'm going to go ahead and drill/mark my own. I ended up buying a Concord 20 gallon stainless pot from eBay for $102 shipped from seller concordcookware. The reviews here seem pretty positive on the Concord pots cost/quality ratio, hopefully I'll find that to be the case!

Next steps:
1) Drill a hole in the pot with a step drill, and install a weldless ball valve.
2) Add internal vol. markings

You won't be disappointed!

Don't use a step bit, get yourself a cheap knockout punch kit from harbor freight or something, trust me drilling those with a step bit royally sucks. So does cleaning all the burs off with a grinder afterwards. You could also try your hand at soldering stainless after you've drilled the hole instead of buying a weldless bulkhead fitting if your feeling frisky.......
 
You won't be disappointed!

Don't use a step bit, get yourself a cheap knockout punch kit from harbor freight or something, trust me drilling those with a step bit royally sucks. So does cleaning all the burs off with a grinder afterwards. You could also try your hand at soldering stainless after you've drilled the hole instead of buying a weldless bulkhead fitting if your feeling frisky.......

What size step bit would you use? 1 inch?
 
Well again, I would NOT use one, but this is the one I used to drill mine with....once.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FZ2UOY/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20


Sorry about that. I meant the knock out punch kit.



I have a step bit and used it with success on my mash tun. I drilled a small pilot hole, then used the step bit for the final hole size. I taped the area above the 1" mark and just drilled the hole up to that point. Then I used a file to deburr the hole.

I didn't know if the punch out kit would be different as I have never used one, so that's why I asked. My employer has one, so if there's a huge difference between the two as far as the kit being better than the step bit, I may see about using it. If it's just the matter of deburring for a few minutes, I'll just carry on with the step bit.
 
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Sorry about that. I meant the knock out punch kit.



I have a step bit and used it with success on my mash tun. I drilled a small pilot hole, then used the step bit for the final hole size. I taped the area above the 1" mark and just drilled the hole up to that point. Then I used a file to deburr the hole.

I didn't know if the punch out kit would be different as I have never used one, so that's why I asked. My employer has one, so if there's a huge difference between the two as far as the kit being better than the step bit, I may see about using it. If it's just the matter of deburring for a few minutes, I'll just carry on with the step bit.

Well if you had good success drilling a hole in your SS mash tun with the step bit then I don't expect you'll have a problem with the Concord pot then. For me it was just a huge pain though, bit kept getting too hot, took forever, huge burs everywhere. I should have took more time I guess.
 
I suspect having trouble drilling such thin pots is related to using a high speed corded drill that doesn't have any torque at lower speeds. A good cordless drill with gear driven speed adjustments is the key. I have step bits, tungsten carbide hole saws, and greenlee knockout punches and the only tool of the three that I don't use are the punches. Thinwall pots tend to pull and get hung up in between the punch and die no matter how sharp I keep them. Not only that but you still have to drill a pretty sizable hole to get the mandrel through.
 
Thanks to everyone for the feedback! My "moment of weakness" (i.e. temptation to spend some extra cash to avoid a bit of work) passed and I'm going to go ahead and drill/mark my own. I ended up buying a Concord 20 gallon stainless pot from eBay for $102 shipped from seller concordcookware. The reviews here seem pretty positive on the Concord pots cost/quality ratio, hopefully I'll find that to be the case!

Next steps:
1) Drill a hole in the pot with a step bit, and install a weldless ball valve.
2) Add internal vol. markings


I've decided to forgo the Amcyl and I too also went with Concord and plan on doing the same thing as Fosaisu plans on doing with his. I went with the 15 gallon as I mainly do 5 gallon batches, but wanted the option for a few 10 gallon batches that will be for the common beers my cousin and me like to brew.
 
I've decided to forgo the Amcyl and I too also went with Concord and plan on doing the same thing as Fosaisu plans on doing with his. I went with the 15 gallon as I mainly do 5 gallon batches, but wanted the option for a few 10 gallon batches that will be for the common beers my cousin and me like to brew.

So I drilled my pot out last night. Started with a center punch to mark the hole (could have made a better divot to start with but better than just trying to hold the drill bit steady on a curved SS surface). Then, using my 18v cordless drill set to high torque and low speed, drilled a hole with the 1/8" bit and then enlarged with the 1/4" bit, both sprayed with cooking spray first. Those holes went through very easily. Next up was the step bit, with stops every step or two to reapply cooking spray. That too went pretty smoothly. Per Bobby M's instruction video, I drilled the last step out from inside the pot to minimize burrs on the interior where the gasket seal goes.

Pretty easy going all around -- there was never a time when I was worried about the drill bit binding up or hardening the SS, except for the very first hole when I accidentally grabbed on old, extremely dull bit that was spinning out on me and actually snapped off! Once I swapped in a new bit (regular old black oxide, nothing particularly exciting) it cut through like a charm.

I stopped briefly at 13/16" but the bulkhead wouldn't quite fit, so I pushed harder and hit 7/8" (the largest step on my step bit). In hindsight I probably should have stopped at 13/16" and then slowly removed additional material with the drill or a grinding stone or file to get a perfect fit. But the 7/8" hole works, and once I cleaned it up with the grinding stone on my Dremel (you can also just use a file) I had a smooth, pretty hole to work with.

By far the most time spent was in getting the bulkhead and ball valve installed without leaks. My own fault there, didn't follow the advice on Bargain Fittings and Bobby M's sites and forgot to put Teflon tape on the outer threads before installing the ball valve, which then proceeded to slow leak. Once I got everything remove and properly taped and reinstalled, no more leaks (though I did end up needing 2 washers on the outside since my ball valve wouldn't sit far enough up on the bulk head -- luckily I had spares from another project).

Overall a fun little project, absolutely within reach of anyone that owns a decent cordless drill and is willing to pick up a step bit and futz around with the ball valve a bit to get a perfect seal (you should be able to do this the first time if you can bring yourself to follow the advice of the experts!) Can't wait to give it a test run brewing in a week or two!

And thanks again to everyone that weighed in on my original question.
 
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You won't be disappointed!

Don't use a step bit, get yourself a cheap knockout punch kit from harbor freight or something, trust me drilling those with a step bit royally sucks. So does cleaning all the burs off with a grinder afterwards. You could also try your hand at soldering stainless after you've drilled the hole instead of buying a weldless bulkhead fitting if your feeling frisky.......
step bits work great... from the issues you describe to were likely drilling too fast and applying too much pressure which causes a rough uneven edge... if you use wd 40 and drill very slow the harbor freight bits cut like butter...I drilled many holes in my 3 kettles for my electric setup with them. and I did burn up some bits before realizing I was drilling too fast... once I slowed down it went very smooth.
 
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