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Anyone Brew With Extract Only ?

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There was an episode of The Session a while ago as part of the Brewcaster Challenge (basically a tournament of brewing, each "matchup" featured one style of beer). Jamil Z. brewed a black IPA using 3 Mr. Beer kits and some dry hops. It was an extremely lax process and from the sounds of it, he would've come out with a fantastic beer if it weren't for some bad hops he used.

I've been AG for years but I want to try that as an experiment.
 
If you're using Briess LME in the 3.3lb sealed containers look at the bottom.
A time/date stamp showing production information can be found. I consider this a positive when purchasing extracts. To me, fresher is better and any producer who dates product invites customer confidence. My LBHS buys LME by the barrel, re-packages in-house, and re-prices the product. Some of what is on the shelf carries no date, so I've actually wandered over to the drum to look at the shipping data myself.
LME is relatively expensive compared to grain and I want the best I can get.
 
Occasionally I brew an extract only batch when I want to experiment, see Zymurgy, Last Drop, March/April 2016.
The last extract only batch I brewed was an imperial pilsner which I brewed to use up a bunch of the home grown sterlings that I had in my freezer.
 
Excellent beer can be made from just extract. But steeping grain is so easy and cheap that if it has any benefit it's worth adding.
 
I am assuming that when you say extract only, you are referring to extract without specialty grains, and not extract without hops. That being my assumption, I would say you can most definitely make some ridiculously great with extract only, and there are some fantastic extract only beer kits out there. The kits I get from Williams Brewing are extract only with hops, some sugars, but no specialty grains and they all come out great. I've also purchased some great extract with specialty grains kits from Northern Brewer and they have all turned out great as well. I honestly don't see any difference in the final product as far as enjoyment and drinkability, whether extract only or with specialty grains.

Now, if you are referring to those canned kits that are pre-hopped and just making that with no hop additions or adding other ingredients to tweak the recipes... while better than a lot of what you'd get at the grocery, I've never made one of those kits and found it memorable in any way.
 
If someone could point me in the direction of a really good munich malt DME I'd be willing to try extract-only brewing again. Been a little tough to find time to mash and sparge with a new, tiny roommate around, but I like munich malt too much to give up what I call "partial-extract" brewing. I max out my mash tun and add a little extract to reach my desired OG.
 
If someone could point me in the direction of a really good munich malt DME I'd be willing to try extract-only brewing again. Been a little tough to find time to mash and sparge with a new, tiny roommate around, but I like munich malt too much to give up what I call "partial-extract" brewing. I max out my mash tun and add a little extract to reach my desired OG.

Briess makes munich DME and vienna. I think Morebeer carries both.
 
@Steveruch so there are, and it looks like they've even updated the munich dme description so it doesn't look identical to the pilsner dme. Although it describes it as being made from pale ale malt while the vienna malt specifically says it is made from vienna malt. I might be splitting hairs, but it kind of matters.

Just for reference: Vienna DME, Munich DME.
 
Since Liquid Malt Extract is basically already made worth that has been boiled and the concentrate to syrup form, I wonder why even boil? It looks like I could add an infusion of cascade hops to the water after getting it at S.G. of 1.050 appx and then check temp and add the yeast. What advantages is there in boiling it?

If you had a gallon of water, regular water an not some "used" New Jersey water, how much LME would be needed to bring it to a SG of 1.050? With Dry Malt Extract it is even more condensed and would take a different amount to achieve the brix level you want.

One thing about the "used" water mentioned earlier on, is it will probably have a pale color already but on the plus side, should contain sufficient yeast nutrients, especially Urea for the yeast growth. Long ago a German living in Nebraska told me that our American beer tastes like hose piss. Perhaps he had "used" water made beer?
 

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