Any ideas?

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svthomas72

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So, I brewed my first 10 gallon batch today. Everything was pretty good, except for the boil time was WAY longer than I needed it to be to get my volume down to 10 gallons (but, I can work that out for myself a little later. It's just an adjustment to mash/sparge volumes). The real problem occurred when I went to chill the wort. I was on a zoom and excused myself to go start the chill. When the zoom ended about 35/45 minutes later, I came into a garage full of wort and water. Apparently, my immersion chiller sprang a leak (it had a slight kink, but I have used it a few times with no trouble), and it filled the brew kettle with water until it overflowed onto the floor. I had to pull everything, and dump some of the brew out of the garage to move it. I lidded it, and now I am wondering if I could boil the remainder to sanitize it, and have an IPA light on my hands tomorrow? Any thoughts?
 
In the hope that there's still enough fermentable content to make the rest of the process worthwhile, you can indeed re-boil the wort for sanitation - and more. You'll want to repeat any late hop additions - like inside of 10 minutes through flameout and whirlpool, if the recipe so calls - as everything that's in the wort now will be lost aside from the IBUs...

Cheers!
 
In the hope that there's still enough fermentable content to make the rest of the process worthwhile, you can indeed re-boil the wort for sanitation - and more. You'll want to repeat any late hop additions - like inside of 10 minutes through flameout and whirlpool, if the recipe so calls - as everything that's in the wort now will be lost aside from the IBUs...

Cheers!
Yeah, this was a concern. Unfortunately, I do not have any more of the late hop additions aside from a plethora of Cascades. I will shoot for a session with Cascades as the flavor/aroma hops. Can't be too bad as a session, just sad that the primary flavor profile is lost now. I will leave it lidded until morning, and then resume. I even have thought of a fix for my wort chiller. I'll just make the coil shorter by cutting off the kink, and reshaping it.

Thanks for the input.
 
In the hope that there's still enough fermentable content to make the rest of the process worthwhile, you can indeed re-boil the wort for sanitation - and more. You'll want to repeat any late hop additions - like inside of 10 minutes through flameout and whirlpool, if the recipe so calls - as everything that's in the wort now will be lost aside from the IBUs...

Cheers!
Oh, man, that's effin' tragic.
Check the gravity of what you've captured and decide if it's worth further effort.
If it's under 1.040 it's gonna be a seriously sessionable beer ;)

Thanks for the idea about the gravity. I am going to shoot for the session now.
 
What kind of beer is your diluted batch?
Definitely mix it well and get a gravity reading first. Maybe it's not too bad.

If it's really low, you can use some of the wort as tomorrow's strike water, boosting the gravity.
I think you have to be inventive. Or just stick with a very sessionable Ale.

How is the quality of your tap water? Chlorine in it?
If it's clean, you may not have to reboil. Many extract brewers top up with tap water in the fermenter...
 
I even have thought of a fix for my wort chiller. I'll just make the coil shorter by cutting off the kink, and reshaping it.
You can "solder" a patch onto it.
Or better, cut the kink out and sweat the 2 ends together with a simple coupler.

You definitely don't want to lose too much chiller length, 10 gallons takes more than enough time to chill the way it is.

Regarding you boil off being reduced, that's very typical when doubling your brew volume using the same heat source. Just subtract the extra you needed to boil off from your sparge water.
 
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