ANVIL FOUNDRY ALL-GRAIN BREWING SYSTEM

[harrower]

This is not necessarily an Anvil specific question. I am planning on adding a ball valve on the outlet side of the pump for better flow control than the included clamping device. I have both a brass valve and stainless. Normally, I wouldn’t even think twice and use the stainless but it is a good bit heavier than the brass valve and it will just be hanging with the tubing.

Is there any reason not to use brass for this application?

I bought this plastic valve on amazon. I wanted a light valve.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C5B4S1S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Exactly why I asked. I was not aware of the possible reactions there. Thanks! Stainless it is.

I use a barbed plastic valve to keep light. I inserted it half way between my pump and outlet.
In-Line Barbed Ball Valve 13mm for 1/2 Inch Tubing .520 ID - Regulate and Shut-Off/On Water Flow

 

[Tyler.W]

Has anyone tested the actual limits of the Foundry 6.5? I am planning two brew days soon; one with 8.5lb of grain and one with 9.75lb of grain. I know the “limit” is 8lb, but I wonder if it will all fit... I was thinking I could always just remove the malt pipe, drop a bag in BIAB style, and kill the element for the mash so it does not burn. Any thoughts before I find out the hard way?

 

[PhillyBrewDoug]

Has anyone tested the actual limits of the Foundry 6.5? I am planning two brew days soon; one with 8.5lb of grain and one with 9.75lb of grain. I know the “limit” is 8lb, but I wonder if it will all fit... I was thinking I could always just remove the malt pipe, drop a bag in BIAB style, and kill the element for the mash so it does not burn. Any thoughts before I find out the hard way?

I did a RyePA a few sessions ago with 8.25lbs of grain on my 6.5, and that was with the malt pipe. It worked, but came very close. I also held water back for a 1 gallon sparge. If you just use the BIAB bag and no pipe, you should be fine.

 

[Tyler.W]

I did a RyePA a few sessions ago with 8.25lbs of grain on my 6.5, and that was with the malt pipe. It worked, but came very close. I also held water back for a 1 gallon sparge. If you just use the BIAB bag and no pipe, you should be fine.

I was thinking of doing the first batch (8.5lb) with the pipe and a 1 gallon sparge. I might just have to do the 9.75lb batch without the malt pipe and hope for the best.

 

[mbg]

I was thinking of doing the first batch (8.5lb) with the pipe and a 1 gallon sparge. I might just have to do the 9.75lb batch without the malt pipe and hope for the best.

I have a 10.5 but wanted to experiment not using the malt pipe and wanted to try vegetable canning with the AF so needed a false bottom. Look at post #868 - I modified a Grainfather false bottom to work in the Foundry (saw this done by others). Worked great for both uses. For brewing I still prefer the pipe with bag.

 

[Rhyanmeade]

Has anyone thought about, or found an Alembic dome lid that fits this new version (6.5gal)?

 

[Jsmith2154]

Has anyone thought about, or found an Alembic dome lid that fits this new version (6.5gal)?

Since getting my foundry I’ve been contemplating this step. You can buy a turbo through anvil but if the above is better I’m all ears.

 

[Rhyanmeade]

Since getting my foundry I’ve been contemplating this step. You can buy a turbo through anvil but if the above is better I’m all ears.

On the earlier version of the Anvil the Universal Alembic Pot Still lid would fit, but the new version (like I just bought) is wider. I want to try a pot still lid first, rather than the Turbo one, but will eventually try both, assuming someone makes one. Looks like I might not have a choice for a while.

 

[Jsmith2154]

... but the new version (like I just bought) is wider. I want to try a pot still lid and condenser first...

Same boat. I have the updated version.
From the very limited reading/YouTube watching I’ve done pot still and condenser is better but I’m only at the mouth of that rabbit hole.

 

[AngusMacDuff]

The beer is very dry but refreshingly drinkable. I seem to have brewed IPA Light. Thanks for all the information. I learned a lot more than I expected. This will certainly help me to improve. It's a good hobby when you can just drink your mistakes.

 

[NSMikeD]

Second anvil foundry brew contemplated for this weekend, a kolsch. I have my first brew sitting in the keg in the fermentor at 35°-40° waiting to get tapped that I need to move out ( i.e. tap ;-) ) . I may start this one with rodi water and adjust for a soft water profile. Still tweaking the recipe but this is what I have so far:

4.5 lbs Pilsner (Weyermann 1.6 SRM)
4oz Vienna (Weyermann 3.5 SRM)
0.75oz Hallertauer Mittelfuer 4.0% 60 min boil
0.25os Hallertauer Mittelfuer 4.0% 15 min boil
Lallemand Dry Yeast - Koln

90 min single step full vol mash @ 148°


15 days ferment @ 60° in primary
30 day age gradually dropping temp to 35° (prime and keg)

 

[NSMikeD]

I boiled at 80% @ 240v today and ended up with 4 gals when I was expecting 2.95 so clearly my water volume and boil rates are off. My expected volume after mash of 4.45 was spot on. The blil rate numbers are 22% evap rate and 1.5 gal boil off. I experiences only .45 gal boil off.

it's a kolsh and I my recipe was the high side ABV so I expect it ill still a nice drinkable beer.

I will do a test boil to dial in my actual boil rate. The difference between estimated and actual is too big for my comfort.


edit. duh, I just noticed beer smith defaulted to 90 minute boil without me noticing when I change the mash time to 90 min, That only accounts 1/2 gallon which leaves an extra half gallon which I experienced on my first brew. So I think a test boil at 100% power is in order to dial in the boil rates

 

[Noob_Brewer]

I boiled at 80% @ 240v today and ended up with 4 gals when I was expecting 2.95 so clearly my water volume and boil rates are off. My expected volume after mash of 4.45 was spot on. The blil rate numbers are 22% evap rate and 1.5 gal boil off. I experiences only .45 gal boil off.

it's a kolsh and I my recipe was the high side ABV so I expect it ill still a nice drinkable beer.

I will do a test boil to dial in my actual boil rate. The difference between estimated and actual is too big for my comfort.


edit. duh, I just noticed beer smith defaulted to 90 minute boil without me noticing when I change the mash time to 90 min, That only accounts 1/2 gallon which leaves an extra half gallon which I experienced on my first brew. So I think a test boil at 100% power is in order to dial in the boil rates

If you got a nice boil at 80% (I use 87% on 240V with my 10.5g foundry), Id run your water test at 80% so it would be more apples-to-apples comparison.

 

[AkTom]

I’m embarrassed to say, that yesterday I use my anvil for the first time. It worked like a charm. No major hiccups. First time using a pump, and I loved it. Should do a second batch maybe this week.
Very impressed with it overall,

 

[user 263363]

I boiled at 80% @ 240v today and ended up with 4 gals when I was expecting 2.95 so clearly my water volume and boil rates are off. My expected volume after mash of 4.45 was spot on. The blil rate numbers are 22% evap rate and 1.5 gal boil off. I experiences only .45 gal boil off.

it's a kolsh and I my recipe was the high side ABV so I expect it ill still a nice drinkable beer.

I will do a test boil to dial in my actual boil rate. The difference between estimated and actual is too big for my comfort.


edit. duh, I just noticed beer smith defaulted to 90 minute boil without me noticing when I change the mash time to 90 min, That only accounts 1/2 gallon which leaves an extra half gallon which I experienced on my first brew. So I think a test boil at 100% power is in order to dial in the boil rates

I boil at 85% and get a consistent .75 gal boil off. That’s at 800ft elevation. If you get a good boil at 80, just stick with that for your test.

 

[NSMikeD]

I boil at 85% and get a consistent .75 gal boil off. That’s at 800ft elevation. If you get a good boil at 80, just stick with that for your test.

Thanks. While I am kicking myself for not picking up the boil time in Beersmith changed when I change the mash time, I am encouraged that after adjusting for that mistake, the volume overage was 1/2 gal for both brews, and as we know in home brewing, consistency is more important that efficiency.

 

[myndflyte]

So another question for those that use a bag in the malt pipe. Do you recirculate during that mash? And if so, how to make sure that it hits the whole grain bed? I used a bag for the first time last week and I tried to use the screen that comes with the malt pipe to recirculate but it was tilted to one side and I'm sure it created a channel down the side. I'd like to recirculate just to keep a consistent temperature throughout the mash.

 

[TeamGotOil]

I got mine in June and I am sad to say, I haven’t used it yet. Partly due to trying to make sure everything is set up correctly and partly due to laziness...

 

[mbg]

So another question for those that use a bag in the malt pipe. Do you recirculate during that mash? And if so, how to make sure that it hits the whole grain bed? I used a bag for the first time last week and I tried to use the screen that comes with the malt pipe to recirculate but it was tilted to one side and I'm sure it created a channel down the side. I'd like to recirculate just to keep a consistent temperature throughout the mash.

I've used a bag on all four of my AF brews. As you know, the recirculation disk does not fit in the malt pipe groove with a bag. I just place it on the bag and try to level it and watch the flow. It's not perfect but you can see it is dispersing the flow well (no channeling).

If you are still concerned some have adapted:

1) Siphon spray wort aerator Siphon Spray Wort Aerator | MoreBeer
2) Spray valve BIAB Spray Valve Kit
3) Loc-Line sparge https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00065UDB0/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_10?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
4) others?

Mike

 

[NSMikeD]

I tapped the basic pale ale (the maiden foundry brew) with the trio of cascade, amarillio & citra hops and I am pleased to report the beer has exceeded my expectations - one I am eager to brew again.

The grapefruit hits you right away and yet the bitterness is well balanced.

 

[Shortstack]

So another question for those that use a bag in the malt pipe. Do you recirculate during that mash? And if so, how to make sure that it hits the whole grain bed? I used a bag for the first time last week and I tried to use the screen that comes with the malt pipe to recirculate but it was tilted to one side and I'm sure it created a channel down the side. I'd like to recirculate just to keep a consistent temperature throughout the mash.

I just started using a bag in my AF as I was getting too much grain into the boil for my liking. I do recirculate and was able to get the disk to friction fit with the bag in. I didn’t see any efficiency drop versus the last time I brewed the same beer without a bag. I stir the top third of the mash 30min in. I also level my AF before every brew, but mainly so that I have the same water level to volume marker relationship each time...

 

[Knightshade]

I know I said I was trying to resist, but went ahead and purchased a cereal killer grain mill earlier this morning. Homebrewing.org has 10% off until today (10/8) and I had $20 worth of credit so I just went ahead and did it. Upon receiving my last batch from my LHBS where it looked like they didn't do much more than step on the grain (vs. grinding to BIAB as I requested) I was kinda over it.

I seem to recall .037" being fairly successful in this thread, so I'll start there on my next batch in a couple of weeks.

 

[ngenerator]

I know I said I was trying to resist, but went ahead and purchased a cereal killer grain mill earlier this morning.

Such a good investment! I wish I could go back in time and buy my grain mill months earlier than I did

 

[NSMikeD]

I know I said I was trying to resist, but went ahead and purchased a cereal killer grain mill earlier this morning. Homebrewing.org has 10% off until today (10/8) and I had $20 worth of credit so I just went ahead and did it. Upon receiving my last batch from my LHBS where it looked like they didn't do much more than step on the grain (vs. grinding to BIAB as I requested) I was kinda over it.

I seem to recall .037" being fairly successful in this thread, so I'll start there on my next batch in a couple of weeks.

I ordered mine today. Still on their sale price of $99 (best price on internet) less the 10% discount and free shipping to am all in total of $89.

thanks for your post.

 

[PhillyBrewDoug]

If no one else has tried this, I'll give it a shot and report back.

Hey @billymeter Any luck swapping the valve?

Anyone else have luck taking the valve apart to clean it? I know regular 2-piece valves can sometimes be taken apart, but not so much on my Foundry's valve. Maybe I just need a bigger wrench...

 

[drewmuni8]

First brew day on a 6.5 and i missed my target 75% mash efficency by 5%. One thing i didn't do was squeeze the grain (previously I have been squeezing the bag) but the beer should turn out fine. The pump was nice, I recirculated the mash from the start and didn't read the instructions about starting it 15 mins in, noted for next time. I had the hardest time maintaining my mash temperature though, has anybody had a similar experience? What power percentage are folks leaving it on during the mash? Are you leaving the lid on?

Furthermore, i wasn't stoked on the boil at 120v. Felt as ifI never really got it going even at full power, and when I did slightly I had to put in the chiller and it went back to something more subtle. It ramped up a bit when i put the lid on but then the silicone buffer kept falling out and was quite a pain. Whirlpool was a cool option with a cooper pipe angled and attached to the chiller.

Overall, a decent first impression that I'm hoping will continue to get better. My main reasons for getting one (from previously brewing on a SS 5.5 gallon BIAB set-up) was to have a consistent mash temp, and whirlpool/mash recirculation capabilities, so not maintaining that mash temp was a bit frustrating. I think next brew I'll be mashing in the Anvil and transferring to my SS for a propane boil.

 

[visitor]

@drewmuni8 Seems like your mash efficiency is inline with my experience on that system and similar to what I've seen others report.

Regarding mash temperature, I found that if I set the power level on the unit to ~60% that the mash heats more slowly when the unit does kick on the heat which results in heating the mash more evenly. I've played with using a small amount of tin foil on top of the mash to help keep the heat in when I'm too lazy to recirculate or just want to do a static mash like I use to in a cooler setup. I don't worry much about the gasket as none of my other setups have those on the mash or boil units.

Ultimately I've been using the Anvil as a stop gap until I rework my space with 240v power and build out a nice electric setup. It has been great to brew inside when it's hot or cold and also have the strike water ready to go after a work day or when I wake up in the morning. It's made brewing more frequently easier for me which has been the big win.

 

[tracer bullet]

not maintaining that mash temp was a bit frustrating.

One thing to keep in mind is that, though not confirmed as far as I know, it's widely believed at least that the temp controller is "estimating" the mash temp and it isn't a true reading. SOmething about what it believes the middle of the mash to be based on what is measured at the bottom. Next time around maybe try a digital thermometer as well and see if you don't get different #'s.

 

[harrower]

I have found that a 157 degree temp reading give me a 152 degree mash.

 

[Knightshade]

Hey @billymeter Any luck swapping the valve?

Anyone else have luck taking the valve apart to clean it? I know regular 2-piece valves can sometimes be taken apart, but not so much on my Foundry's valve. Maybe I just need a bigger wrench...

I've had mine "slip" apart twice now while I'm tilting the spigot during transfer to fermenter. Both times I've caught it before it entirely slipped apart and made a mess. So it can definitely be taken apart.

Such a good investment! I wish I could go back in time and buy my grain mill months earlier than I did

I did two batches over the weekend, used the mill for the first time on both. I haven't checked the math, but based on my brewday entries in Brewer's Friend the first batch hit my usual 65%, which I milled at an indicated .035. I modified the gap to .032 for the second batch and hit 72%, which is the highest I've achieved. Both batches were utilizing a Wilser bag, No Sparge.

 

[Knightshade]

So since it “slipped” apart, I disassembled it completely for cleaning. Unfortunately, I wasn’t really paying attention when I did that...so...I think this is the correct order.

 

[Knightshade]

If anybody is willing, or can validate the order of what I posted above, that would be...awesome?

 

[cmac62]

If anybody is willing, or can validate the order of what I posted above, that would be...awesome?

I just looked at mine and this appears to be correct. Of course I can't see inside.

I used mine for the first time and it was an easy brew day. I'm not sure what gap I used, but with three Lbs of wheat I had no issues and with using a dunk/batch sparge and ended up with almost 80% efficiency.

 

[YaleH]

Been lurking in this thread for a short while, I've done several Extract brews using gas burner and just ordered a Foundry 10.5 from NB. Looking forward to getting my first brew in it soon. I might do a dbl batch using extract just to see how it works before jumping into all grain!!!

 

[mbg]

If anybody is willing, or can validate the order of what I posted above, that would be...awesome?

I found this (from J.Thompson on FB):

 

[Knightshade]

I found this (from J.Thompson on FB):


View attachment 705258

View attachment 705259

Perfect..that really thin teflon washer connecting the two pieces was the one I was most concerned about. It seemed like it went there, and made the most sense but validation is always better. Not a FB person, so that is a lacking source of info for me. Thanks!!!

 

[mbg]

Perfect..that really thin teflon washer connecting the two pieces was the one I was most concerned about. It seemed like it went there, and made the most sense but validation is always better. Not a FB person, so that is a lacking source of info for me. Thanks!!!

Glad I could help. That guy also recommended to clean out the valve on every brew.

Ha -I'm not really a FB person either but I was looking up some info on the AF before I bought it a guy encouraged me to look at the AF group on FB. I joined and there is tons of info (like here) but dedicated to the AF. It's the only thing I do on FB.

 

[Knightshade]

I second that recommendation. If you've run a handful of brews through already and not broken it apart to clean, be prepared for some yuck.

 

[Bad Bubba]

Has anyone used a 10.5 Anvil with the adapter ring? I was wondering how well the ring worked out for small batches. I make a lot of 5 gallon batches and sometimes 2-3 gallon batches.

 

[Brewer20]

OK here it is .. my first brew day on the Foundry!!

Hi Brian,
I had my neighbor come over who is a licensed electrician and says I don't need a 30 amp breaker for a 240 dedicated line I'm having installed to run 220 on my 10.5 foundry is there a reason I do need a 30 amp GFCI breaker?
Thanks