No, the hose, clamps, pump, perforated plate and discharge tube are what comprise the recirculation kit. All things considered, the Anvil pump is not bad.
ANVIL FOUNDRY ALL-GRAIN BREWING SYSTEM
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Thanks, I think I'm going to go with the aftermarket SS pump with parts from brewhardware anyway.
Not going to bother with the plate, I'm going to get a sprayer fitting instead
Agreed--that's a solid plan. I believe you will be quite happy with the system.
What is the advantage of using a bag instead of grain basket in this setup? Does a bag allow just a finer crush?
I have the earlier version of the malt pipe which has holes around the sides and on bottom. They trap grain and are ever so much fun to clean out. The bag is good for that reason. The newer bottom may not require that but I don't know for sure.
For now I just use the malt pipe, too lazy to have to clean a bag too.
For now I just use the malt pipe, too lazy to have to clean a bag too.
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The dolly is a good idea but I like to keep the Foundry at a height that I can put a bucket or carboy directly underneath the valve, as I don’t pump the wort. The height of a bench is enough. Has anyone seen suitable carts for this?
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Both work. Many - myself now included - find the bag more convenient. Finer crush with less risk of a stuck sparge, no need to use rice hulls, easy to manage, easy to clean. Higher efficiency, if done properly, and I think you can do a larger grain bill. You can squeeze the bag to the last drop (another contentious topic) Some place the bag inside the basket, to avoid scorching the mash against the heating element. Not necessary if you are careful. The pulley, however, is a must, if not using the basket.
You certainly don’t need to spend upfront for bag and I would try out the the basket first to see how you like it.
Why not use a pump? Doesn't having the unit higher make it harder to pull the basket out?
Woah, good question. I thought the answer was yes, but looking at their pictures, perhaps not. Sorry for thinking it was such an obvious choice to just use it.
Foundry™ Boiler Lid Tube <--They do sell them separately.
As for the bag, I like that there's no dead space on the sides, and the "lift and lower" thing doesn't apply. Plus you can get more grain in overall if you're going for an Imperial beer. Most of us do however use a round grill grate from Amazon to keep it off the bottom. Probably isn't needed as far as burning the bag but I do tend to think an inch or two of water at the bottom is a good thing for mixing. If you search around here you'll find the grill commonly used.
Going to go this route I think, along with aftermarket pump
https://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=MashRecirculationAnvil&CartID=1
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I like to keep it simple. For a 5-6 gal. brew, I don't think I need to pump wort if gravity can do the job. Also, I use a bag on a pulley. No problem lifting.
Two other aspects come to mind--1. allows for a larger grain load, translating to a higher starting gravity, 2. avoids the "dead space" between the malt pipe and the side wall. On the other hand, it is a bit harder to clean.
edit: oops--redundant--didn't see tracer bullet's post
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Thinking of eventually putting in a false bottom, I don't like the idea of grains in a bag resting on the heat source. Does the dip tube interfere/tear the bag?
For those that do not have their Foundry in a stationary place, how do you rig a pulley system? I thought about maybe making a clamp/c-hook type of deal that I can rest on the overhead door trim in my kitchen. Probably not the strongest thing in the world, but it's strong enough for my pull up bar thing.
For those that do not have their Foundry in a stationary place, how do you rig a pulley system? I thought about maybe making a clamp/c-hook type of deal that I can rest on the overhead door trim in my kitchen. Probably not the strongest thing in the world, but it's strong enough for my pull up bar thing.
The bottom of the unit is not going to get hot enough to damage the bag at mash temperatures. The only and best reason for getting the bag off the bottom is not to snag the bag on the temp probe and/or dip tube.
Ah, true I was forgetting the bag comes out before boil. How does everyone avoid snags and getting caught on the dip tube?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G1B1YJM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
I feel like the price has doubled. Probably noticed us all buying them.
Ah, true I was forgetting the bag comes out before boil. How does everyone avoid snags and getting caught on the dip tube?
Copy. Thanks buddy
Noob_Brewer
Well-Known Member
I hadnt seen this false bottom. I like it because it allows better flow than my brewzilla false bottom I've been using for probably about 50 brews now. How does it hold up? It says its stainless steel but just wanted to check on how it holds up. ALso, based on the leg position, I imagine the legs are positioned outside of the element ring? My brewzilla false bottom legs are actually ON the element ring. Lastly, even though it says its 2" in height, does it cleanly clear the dip tube height?
It slips inside with very little room around it, I think the legs would be outside the heat but not 100% certain. I've never noticed any marks from it. I've used it maybe a dozen times, so far so good. Seems strong, good welds. And yeah it clears the dip tubs and TC no problem but without wasting a bunch of space above them either. I do it mostly to have some flow, I assume (but can't confirm) that it helps keep water going through all the grain instead of being mostly flowing from the grain over the tube itself.
Which size fits the 10.5g Foundry? My unit should arrive Saturday so I can't measure myself
11.6 is what I use.
If you're getting ahead, think of something to help fish it out of the wort when you're done, before boiling. I suppose it can stay in but I don't leave it. I have a skinny copper dowel I bent the end of into a j shape. Drops down in between the grill openings and catches a wire on the way back up.
If you're getting ahead, think of something to help fish it out of the wort when you're done, before boiling. I suppose it can stay in but I don't leave it. I have a skinny copper dowel I bent the end of into a j shape. Drops down in between the grill openings and catches a wire on the way back up.
Noob_Brewer
Well-Known Member
I take mine out prior to boil. But the brewzilla FB doesn't have as good of openings as the other one posted here does. I use SS wire used in marine applications (from harbor freight). I have wire on two sides of it that run up the sides of the kettle and attach to the handles on the outside. So once I lift my bag for dripping, its easy to remove the FB.
Is the hose barb fitting included on the ball valve removable? If yes, is it 1/2" NPT threads?
Removable = yes
NPT = no, straight thread (aka G thread), it's like shower hose to shower head thread, it relies on a gasket to make the seal, not the threads mushing into each other
There are adapters for straight to NPT if needed. Some folks put a ton of PTFE tape on and cross their fingers.
NPT = no, straight thread (aka G thread), it's like shower hose to shower head thread, it relies on a gasket to make the seal, not the threads mushing into each other
There are adapters for straight to NPT if needed. Some folks put a ton of PTFE tape on and cross their fingers.
Copy, thanks.
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It doesn't look like brewhardware has them. I am looking to use camlock QDs on everything, and for the kettle ball valve I want a camlock male nipple. Where did you guys find the adapter and/or fitting with this thread?
JoeSpartaNJ
Well-Known Member
I got mine from LHBS, but I would be shocked if brewhardware does not have them.
I would email them.
Is this it?
TAISHER 2PCS Forging of 304 Stainless Steel Fitting, Reducer Adapter, 1/2" NPT Male x 1/2" G Thread (BSP) Female https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BJ6LQ3V6?ref_=cm_sw_r_apann_dp_Q72FXGSV9J6QH55X3TQ4
TAISHER 2PCS Forging of 304 Stainless Steel Fitting, Reducer Adapter, 1/2" NPT Male x 1/2" G Thread (BSP) Female https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BJ6LQ3V6?ref_=cm_sw_r_apann_dp_Q72FXGSV9J6QH55X3TQ4
That is it. One of many of course but yes that is perfect.
Most pumps, actually I think all, have NPT by the way. Kinda wish Anvil had just done that from the start but I suppose having their threaded-on barb fitting kind of required the straight / G thread with a gasket. It does keep it kind of tool-less which I'm sure was thinking they had in mind (i.e. smooth pipes and pinch clamps for the hoses).
Thanks...is it in the correct config as well, regarding male/female with the appropriate threads?
Edit: I don't think this is correct, I think I need 1/2" G male to 1/2" NPT female. Can anyone link me to what you have used & is confirmed working?
I also emailed brewhardware.. I have around $100 worth of stuff in my cart, I'm hoping they have something I can use and get it all in one order
Edit: I don't think this is correct, I think I need 1/2" G male to 1/2" NPT female. Can anyone link me to what you have used & is confirmed working?
I also emailed brewhardware.. I have around $100 worth of stuff in my cart, I'm hoping they have something I can use and get it all in one order
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no--you have an Anvil, correct? The Anvil spigot has a 1/2 G male end, so you need a G female to NPT male adapter. I posted in your other thread a link to a provider, but the one from tracer_bullet works too.
I see that it's RyPA who found the right fitting, VERIFIED by tracer_bullet. Then questioned by RyPA and then reverified by Grizwold1, then . . . .
I see that it's RyPA who found the right fitting, VERIFIED by tracer_bullet. Then questioned by RyPA and then reverified by Grizwold1, then . . . .
My Foundry arrives today and I was trying to get everything ordered in advance without buying the wrong parts. Thanks for confirming, chief.no--you have an Anvil, correct? The Anvil spigot has a 1/2 G male end, so you need a G female to NPT male adapter. I posted in your other thread a link to a provider, but the one from tracer_bullet works too.
I see that it's RyPA who found the right fitting, VERIFIED by tracer_bullet. Then questioned by RyPA and then reverified by Grizwold1, then . . . .
It showed up today and I got it assembled. I'm glad I waited to order parts, I realized I need two adapters, one for the ball valve and one for the swirly/whirlpool arm as they both use the same thread. Also need an additional camlock fitting.
Ball valves are almost always NPT. You could be right and have one that's straight thread, but check a 2nd time.
I don't know how to verify but it looks like this, same on ball valve and swirly arm
NPT threads do fit on Anvils threads, seems a little looser than NPT, is that expected? How else do you tell the difference?
Edit: With the existence of the o-ring, the anvil connections are straight threaded.
NPT threads do fit on Anvils threads, seems a little looser than NPT, is that expected? How else do you tell the difference?
Edit: With the existence of the o-ring, the anvil connections are straight threaded.
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Ugh, every thing always seems to have to be different. That could be straight thread, I don't mean that it can't be, just not usually. For ball valves anyhow. Anvil may have kept the straight thread on all its stuff for consistency.
When you said ball valve, this came to mind, it's NPT: Brew Kettle Drain Valve and Mounting Hardware
When you said ball valve, this came to mind, it's NPT: Brew Kettle Drain Valve and Mounting Hardware
Yeah the swirly arm and ball valve have the same exact connections and nipple -- both with the nipple having the rubber gasket attached. I ordered all of my camlock fittings from brewhardware, I should have this fully up and running by next weekend
Noob_Brewer
Well-Known Member
Excited for ya man! Let us know how the virgin brewday goes on this system!
Note the line stating that it does not fit the Foundry. Why the different threading was used, who knows? I could not even get an NPT fitting to start, let alone thread all the way on. Thinking a little bit more on this, my guess is that the Foundry line is sourced differently than the rest of the Anvil products?
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