Another Brutus in the making

[RonRock]

Thanks, Nice video. Now I'll have to do a test with 6 1/2 gallons and see how things compare. I did all of my tests with either 14gal or 12 1/2 gal. I would think the extra volume would make a difference. But my guess is that my low pressure hurricane will come close to your jet burner. Either way I'll be trying it out before I make any more drastic changes. I still have a lot of work to do, and I haven't even began to figure out how to set up the BCS.

Good to see you on HBT. Appreciate the help.

Ron

 

[RonRock]

Making headway. Had a little trouble getting it to fire last night. Messed around until I had to restore my BCS. I think that the BCS had some programing issues after I messed with it too much. Hopefully I can reconnect it and fire the burners tomorrow.

 

[lucasbm]

That's a lot-a wires

Looks great though.

 

[The Pol]

Looking good Ron!

 

[fc36]

Figured, I'd bump this and ask Ron to post pictures of his final product in action?

 

[RonRock]

I wish I could. Unfortunately it looks the same as it does in the picture above. I had RF interference between the BCS and the Honeywell igniters. I spent a lot of time diagnosing that, and then it was summer. I was unable to work on the brewery during summer. But it is getting to be winter again and I can get back to work on inside projects.

 

[tjferris]

Ron,
I am currently building the same set up with the BCS and Spark Ignitors. Have you found a solution to the interferance yet? I plan on putting the ignition modules in a separate box below the stand, about 4 feet of so away from my controller on the side of the stand. Not sure if it will help that they aren't mounted in the same box or not. Your situation has me a little bit worried that I shouldn't be using the honeywells! Let me know if you found a solution!
Thanks

 

[RonRock]

I have a couple options figured out. I have found that distance between the BCS and the Honeywell's makes things work. So I think you are on the right track by separating them and mounting in separate boxes. That is probably the way I'll end up.

I have gotten some good help from a couple guys here at HBT and one other solution suggested is to build a shielding enclosure for my BCS and make sure no RF can get to it. I have bought some feed through capacitors that will allow the wiring to pass through the enclosure and shield the RF.

One thing to keep in mind is the length of your ignition cable. I'm not sure how long the cable can be from the Honeywell to the spark igniter. It seems like there is a maximum but I don't recall right now. There could also be some RF coming from the cables during ignition, not sure on that though.

One other way would be to leave the BCS off of the stand altogether. Leave it somewhere else. Maybe a shelf with a Router or even the computer. And run cables to jacks on the stand. That would be easiest. And I figure there will be a drop cord to the stand for power, as well as a garden hose. So the extra line may not be too much inconvenience, just another part of the system. I'm not really crazy about that way, but it would be easy.

When you get things up and running you will know if you are having trouble. I spent many hours trying to narrow this down. My BCS would seem to function fine at times and then others would be completely uncontrollable. The webpage would "look" OK but I had no control. I went so far as to return the BCS and it checked out OK.

I would be happy to help anyway I can. This is a very frustrating situation to deal with, since everything looks OK. You can't see RF interference. And AFAIK I was the first to deal with it with the BCS.

 

[gyropilot1]

I fired it up yesterday and all seem ok so far

 

[evwoller]

I am jealous of your build!

I am also jealous that it appears that you have a legit car lift in your garage.

 

[donnieballgame]

Ron,

Awesome build, I'm building something similar, with banjo high pressure burners, and I was wondering if you did something to convert them to low pressure, b/c I thought you couldn't use the honeywell valve with a high pressure system.

Also what did you find out for the pressure regulator. I got a 0-30psi regulator, but it sounds like that won't work.

Anyway good luck with the build!
-donnie

 

[RonRock]

Hey Donnie,

I used LPG orifices and drilled them to get the BTU's that I wanted for each burner. Yes the Honeywell's do run on low pressure. 11" Water Column is what they need. I used a set of regulators like used on a house. One at the tank, and one at the brewery. There is also a single regulator that does both stages, typically used on RV's I think. I started with one of those, but the one I bought did not put out the BTU's I wanted. I had the others so I switched and just left it that way.

Your 0-30psi will put out way too much pressure, I would not even try it with the Honeywell's it will blow out diaphragms.

There are charts that tell what size to drill the orifices to get the desired BTU's. And if you need I can dig through and find out where I ordered the orifices. Just let me know.

Good luck, and enjoy the build.

 

[gyropilot1]

some pic update to my project

 

[gyropilot1]

more pics

 

[RonRock]

Looking Good, nice and shiny.

 

[brian4508]

sub'd