All of my beers are bad.

[alexipa]

I feel like I've tried almost everything, but I can't seem to brew a beer that doesn't have a bitter, thin, harsh taste. Hoping someone can give me some more ideas.

I brew with an Anvil Foundry system (with recirc) and ferment in Anvil stainless buckets. I've followed a few recipes here that get fantastic reviews, including an amber and a stout (both turned out bitter and just bad). I clean and sanitize everything the beer touches every time I brew. I've tried tap water, tap water with campden tablet, and bottled spring water. I've tried all kinds of yeasts, with and without a starter, even trying Kviek! I bought a chest freezer to control ferm temps. I constantly check the gravity while fermenting and each time the yeast does great. When I try the samples, they always taste horrible.

The only thing I can think of is that the mash isn't going well... my BH efficiency is usually around 60% according to beersmith. Next brew I'm planning to use my old 3-tier system (coolers).

I'm pretty desperate. I've reread all the books on brewing I have and am now reading Water: A Comprehensive Guide for Brewers (Brewing Elements): Palmer, John J., Kaminski, Colin: 9780937381991: Amazon.com: Books . I'm willing to try or buy basically anything to brew good beer.

HELP

 

[Hoppy2bmerry]

Have you adjusted the hop amounts? How is the crush? And, is the bitter flavor possibly astringency?

 

[bracconiere]

tannins? is the ph get above 5.6, or the S.G. below 1.010, or to a lesser extent the temp too high.

but i'd try a lower sparge temp. if that applies to an anvil?

 

[bracconiere]

And, is the bitter flavor possibly astringency?

thus tannins, didn't catch that first read.

 

[Jim R]

Not sure if it is a water issue but I was able to get the water analysis report for the bottled spring water I buy from the bottling company. This allows me to make the easy water adjustments usually with some cheap gypsum and calcium chloride which has improved my beer. On the other hand, home brewing seems fairly foolproof for me. I don't think I have ever made a beer that I would call "bad.".

 

[slayer021175666]

With BIAB systems, you need to give it a finer crush. That might be why the effency is in the toilet and the beer is thin. Just a thought for you.

 

[Jag75]

Along with the water and crush hows your mashing temp? Does it hold temp good ?

Do you have a pic of your crush ?
That system you should be getting good efficiency , much better then 60.

Water plays a big part. Get some RO water , gypsum, calcium chloride and lactic acid . Brew a beer and see if it fixes your issues .

I only take a hydrometer check once and its right before I keg .

 

[Sammy86]

I just moved to an all in one (Brewzilla 65L) and finally had a good day with it.

Crush is definitely something to look at, do you have your own mill? Also, from my own experience now I got with a thinner mash (2.0 qt/pound). This helped with my efficiency as well.

If you're using tap water you definitely need a water report...as said above get some RO add a few brewing salts...I do the same as @Jag75 a few salts and beers come out fantastic.

 

[camonick]

Next brew I'm planning to use my old 3-tier system (coolers).

Did you make “good” beer with your old system?

 

[ArizonaGoalie]

I just moved to an all in one (Brewzilla 65L) and finally had a good day with it.

Crush is definitely something to look at, do you have your own mill? Also, from my own experience now I got with a thinner mash (2.0 qt/pound). This helped with my efficiency as well.

If you're using tap water you definitely need a water report...as said above get some RO add a few brewing salts...I do the same as @Jag75 a few salts and beers come out fantastic.

@Sammy86 Can you elaborate on exactly what salts and in what quantity you're adding to your RO water? Water chemistry is the last brewing frontier for me, I have a hard time comprehending it. I haven't had any issues, but there's always new levels to achieve. I use RO water to brew with as well.

 

[Sammy86]

@Sammy86 Can you elaborate on exactly what salts and in what quantity you're adding to your RO water? Water chemistry is the last brewing frontier for me, I have a hard time comprehending it. I haven't had any issues, but there's always new levels to achieve. I use RO water to brew with as well.

I use Brun' Water for all my water calculations. I choose a basic profile not one based on a place like Burton for example.

The last brew I did I used Lager profile and played around with the epsom salt, gypsum and calcium chloride until i hit green in the excel sheet.

I'm also brewing 11 gallon batches and don't do anything to the sparge water. It's all based on the style of beer and if i add acid malt or lactic acid.

 

[Dinadan]

Maybe you should go back to basics. Try brewing a kit beer like Muntons. It it turns out bad, then there is probably something fundamentally wrong with your water or equipment. If it turns out good, then at least you know it is not the water or some kind of microbes in your equipment.

Just a thought, clearly you are a more experienced brewer than I.

 

[alexipa]

Wow, thanks for all the responses. In response:

I'm not overly hopping, perhaps even under hopping for the styles. I haven't tweaked my grain crush at all, this is something I'll definitely look at. I've been using the mill at the local homebrew store, which is an excellent store but I probably shouldn't blindly trust it. I haven't tested the actual pH of the mash but I'd like to try this as well. Tannins/astringency sounds likely for the flavor I'm tasting actually. My mash temp stays pretty darn consistent but I wonder if my thermometer is off... I've been mostly trusting the internal foundry reading.

If the grain crush is the culprit would it be because it's too fine? To the other comment, I wonder why my efficiency would be so low. That leads me to believe that maybe it's a crush AND temperature issue perhaps?

I do think my water could use improving but from what I've read it shouldn't cause such noticeable issues in the beer. I know others in the area that brew with the same spring water (eldorado) with good results. I'm still looking to improve here but I don't think it's the main culprit.

I made decent beer with my last system (coolers), never amazing. I entered a couple competitions and placed a couple times.

 

[slayer021175666]

If your water is the same as when you made good beer on the tier system, then your water is ok.
As for as the crush, you want it finer for your system. If the crush is too course, it will be dificult to extract all your sugars.

 

[day_trippr]

Sparge pH matters - more than temperature. If you're using high RA water you could easily be pulling tannins...

Cheers!

 

[IslandLizard]

Tannins/astringency sounds likely for the flavor I'm tasting actually.

Is this your system, 6.5 gallon?
https://www.anvilbrewing.com/-p/anv-foundry-6.5.htm120V or 240V?

Technically, for brewing purposes, this is considered a BIAB(asket) system.
This typically means full volume mashes, no sparging. Or only a small sparge.

Since you're using mash recirculation, the grain cannot be too finely milled, or it will plug up. That's different from using a mesh bag and no recirculation where the grist can be milled to almost dust.
Either way should give you great efficiency. And perhaps a few extra points when performing a (small) sparge.

 

[slayer021175666]

IslandLizard,
I guess that does make a big difference.

 

[Toto's]

When you finished the sparge...
by any chance you squeeze or press your mash to extract the most liquid you can .....
That can spoil the taste of the beer and bring bitterness....
Just adding another theory lol

 

[camonick]

When you finished the sparge...
by any chance you squeeze or press your mash to extract the most liquid you can .....
That can spoil the taste of the beer and bring bitterness....
Just adding another theory lol

Why do you ask this? It has been proven that squeezing or pressing the liquid out of BIAB mashes doesn’t create the problems you’re implying.

 

[Toto's]

Well it looks like i am not up to date by any chance you have any link if not no worry

 

[IslandLizard]

Well it looks like i am not up to date by any chance you have any link if not no worry

by any chance you squeeze or press your mash to extract the most liquid you can .....
That can spoil the taste of the beer and bring bitterness....

Why and how can squeezing the mash bring bitterness? If you're thinking of extracting tannins, they can cause astringency, not bitterness. They can be confused, but once you know which is which (suck on a spent teabag), it's easier to troubleshoot.

Now tannins can get extracted when sparging at too high a pH. Such as when using (sparge) water that has a high Residual Alkalinity (RA). By either using softer water and/or adding some acid you can make sure the sparge pH remains under 5.8. Use a brewing water calculator to calculate how much of which acid to use.

 

[bracconiere]

pH remains under 5.8.

guess i'm out of date too, i thought it was 5.6? and when i asked the brew pub owner about my 'problem' and he told me to lower my sparge temp to 160f, i described it as yeasty, not bitter, or astringent. he seemed to know what it was off the bat.

 

[camonick]

Well it looks like i am not up to date by any chance you have any link if not no worry

Google is your friend, but here are a few.
https://www.brewinabag.com/blogs/news/52619844-misconceptions-brew-bag-myths-explained
https://www.brewinabag.com/blogs/news/26039684-tannins-squeezing-the-bag-are-not-synonymous
https://www.brewersfriend.com/forum/threads/to-squeeze-or-not-to-squeeze.7667/
https://www.brewmation.com/brewing/mash-press

 

[Toto's]

Yes indeed i have been reading since ...
Well at this point i am wondering if i shouldn't use my juice extractor to get the maximum of my worth!!!
Thanks a lot for the links.

 

[IslandLizard]

at this point i am wondering if i shouldn't use my juice extractor to get the maximum of my worth!!!

I know you said it jokingly, but you don't want to beat air into your wort at that point. But you should when ready to pitch yeast!
After that, your beer should not have contact with air (oxygen) ever again, and should be avoided as much as possible.

 

[jerrylotto]

The thing that lept out to me from your descriptions was " I constantly check the gravity while fermenting and each time the yeast does great. When I try the samples, they always taste horrible.' How are you taking these samples? Are you introducing air (oxygen) or infection to your batch? The only time gravity makes a difference is at the start and the finish. If you see fermentation activity, that is enough of a confirmation that you yeast is working. And taste only matters after you keg.

I don't see your recipe and I'm not sure what style you are brewing, but if you want to improve, take good notes. I've not seen a sufficiently detailed description of your process to think you already are, but please SHARE them if you do! That is the best way to get help here. For example, you say that you know your water profile but did not state what it was or how you adjusted it. Quantities and measurement MATTER! And simplify. You may brew a plethora of styles, but please focus on one at time. Once you get that right, move to the next one.

 

[BarryBrews]

Anvil Foundry system (with recirc)

Just checked out your brewing rig. It's awesome looking and if functioning correctly is definitely not your problem. Personally I would use a brew bag inside the inner basket for a clearer wort, and be a drip not a squeeze kind of brewer.

As for your brew problem a list of potential causes is one thing, but having your brewing specs would allow an informed feedback. Please share your numbers.

 

[Jag75]

I use the Grainfather. Very similar system. I added a false bottom which really helped . Imo there's no need to ditch the basket for a bag. I'm in the 80's efficiency wise.

You might try stirring about 4 times during your mash to help . If your temp of mash is holding correct then your crush is the reason for low efficiency.

 

[BarryBrews]

there's no need to ditch the basket for a bag.

Totally agree. The basket and brew bag combination would stop the bag from squeezing the grain bed under it's own weight when lifted out of the wort.

 

[Newtobrewing85]

I read this post this morning and went to my Palmer book for some reading after. I came across this which is what everyone seems to be telling you. Just figured I’d toss it in.