All grain test batch?

[Brewtard16]

Hi everyone,

new to the site, and new to all-grain brewing.

My question for everyone is... is it common to do a small test batch (say 1 or 2 gallons) when experimenting with new recipes?

this makes sense to me to do this to conserve ingredients (im not worried about saving time), as long as the beer results are the same for a 1 gallon batch and a 5 gallon batch.

thanks, and sorry if this is redundant.

cheers

 

[Skyforger]

I started brewing all-grain. I made my first few batches in 1-gallon size, due mostly to a lack of proper equipment, and the thought that I probably wouldn't want to drink more than 1 gallon of my first efforts. This was partly a good idea, as the quality wasn't fantastic, but it was a lot of work for seven 500mL bottles of beer.

But if you don't mind that, I would recommend the approach. You could even do 2 gallon batches, and then split them into two jugs and experiment with different temps/yeasts/flavorings, etc. I kind of wish I did that back when.

I noticed no difference in the results between 1 and 5 gallon batches, except maybe in attenuation. I'm not sure if a process error was involved (I didn't know too much about fermentation back then), but only one of my 1-gal batches attenuated properly. So make sure to use a decently strong yeast, I suppose. But the plus side, you can probably get pretty good pitching rates with liquid yeast in a 1-gallon batch without a starter; just pitch the whole package/tube.

So, in brief: I haven't tried the same recipe in a 1-gal batch vs. a 5-gal batch. But I didn't see any real difference in the way beers turned out, except the (possibly unrelated) attenuation problems. I think you could do test batches this way.

As to whether it's common - I've never heard of another person doing 1-gallon batches. It seems the test size for most homebrewers is a full five gallons, honestly. It's a bit more money, no more time. And waiting time is fairly important for most homebrewers, at least new ones....Occasionally I've heard of people doing 2.5 or 3 gallon batches.

 

[Brewtard16]

Thank you for your input, much appreciated.

The only reason i plan to start out this way is to save a few bucks and im afraid of having 5 gallons of beer I wont want to drink.

Thanks again!

 

[indigi]

How much do you think you'll save? For a 5 gallon batch of session beer you need 6-10lbs of grains, depending on your efficiency. A one gallon batch would be 2 pounds. You'll save about ten to twelve bucks in grains and not much at all in hops unless your LHBS sells them by the quarter ounce. You're gonna put a decent amount of effort and time in either way.

 

[Golddiggie]

With the cost of AG brewing already being so low, I don't see the point in not going with a 5 gallon batch. For some, that would be a 'small' batch since they're normal is 10 gallons.

I would advise using software to check your recipe to ensure it's at least going to have the right OG, FG, IBU's and ABV% that you want. Post the recipe in the second on this site and you'll get some very experienced brewers giving feedback.

If you're washing your yeast, then your cost to brew is really low...

I'm using Beer Smith software (a whopping $21 for the license for two computers) and it gives me 95% of what I need to figure out a recipe. The remaining 5% is found online here. That includes feedback about the grain bill.

I've figured it out. The same batch that cost me over $40 to brew with an extract kit, would cost me about $10-$15 going all grain (especially with washing yeast)...

If you post up at least a few days before you intend to brew something, you'll get feedback on it... That could save you from making something you don't want to drink. Keep in mind, not everyone's idea of a great brew is the same. For instance, I don't like high hop brews. I prefer smoother brews that let the grains come through. Or non-bitter hop additions that just add to a great brew. That's what I'm brewing. Is it for everyone, of course not. But that's a large part of why people brew their own.

If you toss out a batch because it came out really bad, as long as you have good notes, you'll be able to see where you went wrong. Just keep in mind the temperature tolerances/ranges for the yeast that you want to use. Some have very different flavors once you go over a certain fermenting temperature.

 

[Skyforger]

I understand your desire to not make 4 gallons too many of a poor beer. I did the same thing, as I mentioned.

I would recommend making half batches, though - 2.5 gallons. That gives you a reasonable amount of beer for your effort, without being overboard. And it only requires a single 3-gallon carboy for fermentation (secondary is usually unnecessary). I have found this is reasonable to do with ordinary kitchen equipment, and doesn't have the disappointment of many hours of work being represented by essentially a six-pack of beer.

It's also easier to convert from most recipes. 1 gallon batches have worked for me, but I have found that, even though I am a patient and methodical person, I can't really enjoy the beer with only a few bottles after having worked so hard on it. Each bottle seems too precious to waste, and so I ended up not opening them with the relish that I should have had.

If I were to go back to the beginning, this is what I would do. I would make 2.5-3 gallon batches, then split them between 3 one-gallon jugs, each with a different treatment - say, a different yeast. Then, I would be able to keep track of the differences. Be sure to save the yeast strains for the future - yeast strains are one of the more expensive, relatively speaking, parts of brewing. If you buy a new one each time, it really adds up.

I think you could learn a lot about brewing and fermentation this way, without making huge batches of mediocre beer.

 

[indigi]

If you don't feel confident enough in your brewing skills to wash or reuse yeast yet, you can make delicious beers with dry yeast. At a buck fifty a pack for Nottingham, you'll be pitching a good amount of yeast even if you don't rehydrate and won't need to put any money into DME for a starter. Unless I'm doing a Belgian, lager, or other specialty beer, I stick to dry strains until I'm trying to perfect my recipe.

 

[user 19629]

I would hazard a guess that most "bad" batches of beer are not from recipe flaws but from procedural errors. If the beer tastes like ass it's probably not the recipes fault.In other words it's just as easy to f'up a one gallon batch as a five gallon batch. I'd say unless you are using some whacked out ingredient just do a full batch.

 

[Golddiggie]

I would hazard a guess that most "bad" batches of beer are not from recipe flaws but from procedural errors. If the beer tastes like ass it's probably not the recipes fault.In other words it's just as easy to f'up a one gallon batch as a five gallon batch. I'd say unless you are using some whacked out ingredient just do a full batch.

+10

Also remember that post boil, anything that touches the wort (hardware wise) needs to be sanitized first.

 

[Brewtard16]

Thanks for all the info.

I will post my reicipe and get some feedback.

Happy new year!

 

[IceFisherChris]

I guess it depends on how much you want to experiment. I'd love to try 10 different recipes but I don't have 500 bottles laying around! Half batches would make it much easier to play around with a lot of recipes. If you just want to try one or two recipes then do a full batch. Chances are you will always have good beer!