All-grain procedure

[Wallachia]

Hello all,
I think I'm almost ready to move from extract to grain brewing, but I have some questions about steps involved. I've been doing a lot of reading, but I think I'm just getting myself confused reading about different methods to fit them to the equipment that I have.

I managed to get a hold of two 10-gallon stainless steel pots with false bottoms and spigots.

I think because of my limited equipment I'll need to be using "batch sparging" As I understand it, I'm going to be heating about 17 1/2 quarts of water to about 164 degrees before adding 13 lbs of grain to the same vessel for a ~152 degree mash. I maintain that at temperature (as well as I can in a heated stainless pot) for about an hour. After that I just drain into the next pot and then perform the boil as normal, right? When does the rest of the water come in before the boil? I'm sure I will get equipment to do sparging and a better mash tun solution in the future, I'd just like to do one recipe first to make sure it turns into something resembling beer.
Am I missing about 30 steps?

EDIT: I should mention I'm shooting for a beer of about 1.072 OG and 6 SRM, I tried doing the math, but measured/brewhouse efficiency is striking me about as mysteriously as multivariable calculus

 

[buzzerj]

Your malt will hold a gallon plus by soaking it up so if you want to start with a 6.5-7 gallon boil volume from what you lauter, you have at least 3.125 gallons of water to sparge with. You don't have to sparge with that entire amount but you should have a good idea what your boil volume is at the start. To do that I graduated a long dowel from the hardware store to my boil pot. So I use a dipstick method to measure what my boil volume is. Use a strike temp calculator to see the temperature of the sparge water to get a 168 degree F mash out. Add the water and batch sparge (collect the full volume you can). Then get the wort to a boil and add hops and go. Save the malt for a batch of spent grain granola and eat your beer too!

 

[Wallachia]

As for the sparging, the general idea is to slowly drain out the wort into a third container (I'll figure that part out) WHILE draining hot water from the HLT (in this case, my second 10-gallon pot), and then boil as normal, or do I sparge AFTER emptying everything that will empty from the mash/lauter tun?

 

[buzzerj]

With batch sparging, I mash out by adding a volume of water to bring the mash to 168 degrees and that's 7 quarts of boiling water. Add it onto a piece of plastic like a coffee can lid to break the water flow so it doesn't upset the grain bed a whole lot. Let that sit for 10 minutes before starting to lauter. Then begin a real slow lauter. Collecting wort over 45 minutes is ok. Let it little more than trickle. After that runs out, add 5.5 quarts of water heated to 175F and lauter again. On average you should be able to collect somewhere around 6.5 gallons for a full wort boil. Get to a boil and go. Hey do I get any of this beer?

 

[TexasWine]

If I were you I'd go BIAB to start with. It's simple, easy to grasp, and can be done with the equipment you've got plus a bag. After you've done BIAB you can then decide if you want to get more complicated and introduce more steps.

Read this...

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=233289

 

[Gavin C]

I would echo TexasWine. BIAB is a great entry to all grain brewing. A method I now use exclusively is outlined in the thread below should you be interested. It really is a very simple process.

 

[Wallachia]

I might consider that, though I'm a little hesitant to buy a turkey fryer basket that I might just throw away later.

I've got some time to think about it anyways, the fermenter is occupado with my second run-through of NB's Dead Ringer at the moment, the BIAB/Grain batch is going to be a "Tasmanian" IPA recipe I put together with a lot of guesswork

 

[doug293cz]

You could start with a BIAB (brew in a bag) process for your fist brew. The only thing you need that you don't already have is a fine mesh bag that completely lines the inside of one of your pots. Many people use paint strainer bags from Home Depot, Lowes, etc., but I don't know if those are large enough for a 10 gal pot. You might be able to find a suitable bag at your local LHBS. The steps are pretty simple:

• Use a calculator like this one to determine how much strike water will fit in your pot along with the grain for your recipe.
• Heat the strike water in the pot to the temperature determined by the calculator.
• Add the bag and then the grains to the pot, and stir well to eliminate any dough balls.
• Cover the pot and insulate with towels, a blanket, a sleeping bag, old winter coat, etc.
• While the mash is resting, heat the amount of sparge water indicated by the calculator in your other pot. Sparge water can be from room temp up to about 175°F. It's not critical.
• When the mash time is up, stir the mash and then lift the bag out of the pot.
• Let the bag drain for a minute or two.
• Place the bag in the pot with the sparge water, and stir well.
• Wait about ten minutes, stir again, lift the bag out, and drain for a couple of minutes.
• Set the bag aside in something that will catch any additional run off.
• Add the wort from the sparge pot into the mash pot, and heat to a boil.
• Continue with the boil and rest of process as usual.
• (Optional) squeeze the grain bag, and add any additional run off to the boil kettle.

There are many variations to the above process possible, but what's above is a pretty simple way to start. This thread will give more information on variations to the process. There is lots of information on BAIB in this section of the forum.

Good luck.

Brew on

 

[doug293cz]

I might consider that, though I'm a little hesitant to buy a turkey fryer basket that I might just throw away later.

I've got some time to think about it anyways, the fermenter is occupado with my second run-through of NB's Dead Ringer at the moment, the BIAB/Grain batch is going to be a "Tasmanian" IPA recipe I put together with a lot of guesswork

You don't need the turkey fryer basket. Some people like to use them (including me), and others don't like to use them. It's a matter of personal preference, but not a requirement. All you need is the bag, and the equipment you already have.

Brew on

 

[brewing_clown]

I'd recommend using BeerSmith. You can get a free trial version. It takes the hard work out of the calculations, and makes designing recipes much easier. I made the move to all grain about a year ago. It's not as daunting as it may seem. I haven't tried BIAB.

 

[RM-MN]

I might consider that, though I'm a little hesitant to buy a turkey fryer basket that I might just throw away later.

I've got some time to think about it anyways, the fermenter is occupado with my second run-through of NB's Dead Ringer at the moment, the BIAB/Grain batch is going to be a "Tasmanian" IPA recipe I put together with a lot of guesswork

Wait! WHAT? "The fermenter"? You only have one fermenter? Well, there's your problem right there. Why don't you blow about $15 for a bucket fermenter with airlock so you can do another batch? If you are careful with the bucket it can last for years. Just don't use a scratch pad to clean it because that can scratch the bucket, making a place for bacteria to hide.

Doug293cz has laid out a good procedure for you. It is even more involved than what I do but I make a good start as it has most of the steps you would use for a conventional mash tun without some of the equipment and possible problems. Try it. If you don't like the process you are only out the cost of the bag and that bag can be used with your conventional tun for things like hops to keep them out of the fermenter.

 

[dzlater]

If you already have a mash tun with a false bottom I don't see any reason to try brew in a bag. This explains batch sparging pretty well
http://byo.com/hops/item/448-cheap-and-easy-batch-sparging
You can skip the parts about building the mash tun just use what you have.

 

[brewkinger]

I read this thread last night at around 11pm and opted out of posting at that time.
But with fresh eyes and a couple of more helpful posts since then, I will now say this:
Based on the OP's comments in the beginning, it was clear that the process was very confusing and missing some of the necessary steps to succeed.
BIAB is an excellent option in this case.
Some additional reading about either BIAB or straight up all grain brewing would be better advice though. You are missing some critical steps that are going to be the difference between mediocre results / failure and success.
Just my 2 cents and wanting to have you succeed.

 

[ulnpiper]

Hello all,
I think because of my limited equipment I'll need to be using "batch sparging" As I understand it, I'm going to be heating about 17 1/2 quarts of water to about 164 degrees before adding 13 lbs of grain to the same vessel for a ~152 degree mash. I maintain that at temperature (as well as I can in a heated stainless pot) for about an hour. After that I just drain into the next pot and then perform the boil as normal, right? When does the rest of the water come in before the boil? I'm sure I will get equipment to do sparging and a better mash tun solution in the future, I'd just like to do one recipe first to make sure it turns into something resembling beer.
Am I missing about 30 steps?

EDIT: I should mention I'm shooting for a beer of about 1.072 OG and 6 SRM, I tried doing the math, but measured/brewhouse efficiency is striking me about as mysteriously as multivariable calculus

I just finished my 14th all grain brew yesterday, so I'm no expert but I've made beer every time and only once would I consider it bad enough to dump. But I didn't because my son-in-law liked it.

I use a 2 vessel system like what you're describing, plus a couple of 5 gallon buckets. I've marked lines on the side of the bucket for each gallon by adding 1 gal of water at a time and using a sharpie.

Basic process I use and which may work for your set up is this:
1) Heat 4 to 4.5 gallons of water to 164F or what the brew calculator tells you based on the mash temp you want. (I use BrewTarget because it's open source) 164F will give me a mash temp of about 148 so I think 164F might be a hair low. I usually shoot for 166 to 168 as I use an igloo cooler for my MT and I can always add a little cold water to bring the temp down (easier than trying to add hot water to bring it up). Take your time and get the temp exactly where you want it, no need to hurry.

2) Add your grain and stir thoroughly making sure there are no dough balls.

3) After about 45 mins begin heating your sparge water in the other kettle. You want to have too much water, so I'd heat 5 - 6 gallons to 180F.

4) At 60 mins drain your wort into the bucket and note how much you have from the marks on the side. Should be around 3-ish gallons.

5) Take 4 gals of 180F sparge water and add to the grain. Stir. I usually try to end up with about 7 gals of wort. This gives me a gallon or so for boil off and I end up with about 5.5 gals in the fermentor. Which in turn gives me about 5 gals in the keg. So to get 7 gals of wort, subtract what you have in the bucket from 7. Example if you have 3.25 gals in the bucket, you need to add 3.75 gals of sparge water. It doesn't have to be perfectly exact, as your goal is to learn the process and make beer, so if you added 4 gals here it's ok.

6) Take the rest of the sparge water out of the kettle and pour it into a bucket which will give you warm clean up water later. Don't pour it on the grass as it will kill it (don't ask how I know this).

7) Dump the 3-ish gallons of wort from the first bucket into the kettle and start heating.

8) Drain the sparge water from the mash into the first bucket and dump in the kettle, or directly into the kettle depending on your physical arrangement.

9) Boil as you normally would.

Hope that helps.

 

[oogaboogachiefwalkingdeer]

I think most that batch sparge run the wort in the kettle as fast as they can when draining the mash tun.

 

[blizz81]

I think because of my limited equipment I'll need to be using "batch sparging" As I understand it, I'm going to be heating about 17 1/2 quarts of water to about 164 degrees before adding 13 lbs of grain to the same vessel for a ~152 degree mash. I maintain that at temperature (as well as I can in a heated stainless pot) for about an hour. After that I just drain into the next pot and then perform the boil as normal, right? When does the rest of the water come in before the boil?

The "rest of the water" in batch sparging would be after you drain your first runnings, you pour in your sparge water and stir, and then drain that and add it to your boil kettle as more pre-boil volume. The warmer you get the bed (without going over 168-170), the easier it should be to run off and it should aid in halting any remaining conversion. There may be negligible benefits in letting it sit for a bit (to let the bed set up again / increase lautering / clear the remaining runnings up).


Attached is an example of some scripting I've written up for my system describing my water calculations / variables involved, assuming batch sparge and no "dead space" as I have a bottom-draining keggle for a mash tun. As the gravity / lbs of grain increases, there will be a tendency for efficiency to decrease as first runnings will begin to account for more and more of your pre-boil volume (if that stays the same). I tend to bump up pre-boil volume and boil length to account for this, shooting for pre-boil volume to be somewhere around 50% first runnings, 50% sparge.

 

[dcbc]

Edit. Whoops. Didn't realize someone else had posted a walkthrough above. Hopefully, we don't contradict one another too much (room full of brewers, different opinions, etc.)

Since you already have the false bottom, just do all grain with batch sparge.
For a 5 gallon batch,

1. Add hot water (about 4.5 gallons) to your mash tun. Use a brewing calculator to determine how hot you need it to hit your strike temp when adding grain and how much water you need. Go a little hotter and let the mash tun heat up. If your false bottom is pretty high off the bottom of the kettle, you may need a little more water for a good liquor to grist ratio.
2. Add grain slowly while stirring. Stir well and make sure there are no dough balls. Check the temperature of your mash at several points. If it's too high, add some cold water. If it's too low, add some boiling water. Stir. When the temp is where you want it, Put the lid on and cover the mash tun with a blanket (if cold outside).
3. After about an hour, you can check for conversion. But I'd just skip this. It's converted.
4. Slowly drain your mashtun into a large pitcher. Gently pour this liquid back onto the top of the grain bed. Repeat until clear.
5. Run off first runnings wort into your boil kettle. Start it slowly, then let drain as quickly as your system will allow.
6. Add your sparge water (heated to about 170 degrees (you can go a lot hotter, up to 190 if you haven't mashed out or cooler if you prefer). Ideally, this will be 4.5 gallons, but should be enough to reach your determined preboil volume.
7. Stir to mix the sparge water to the grain.
8. Repeat Step 4.
9. Drain your second runnings into boil kettle. Slowly at first, then faster as your system will allow.
10. That's your wort in the BK. Boil and add hops like you would if you were brewing extract.

Note: You need to get to know your system. Water amounts to reach your preboil volume vary from system to system and recipe to recipe if you are really worried about liquor to grist ratios.

I won't go into water adjustments, but it's something you'll need to understand at some point. But for the first batch, just don't brew anything too light or too dark and we'll hope that your water is somewhere in the moderate range mineral/alkalinity speaking.

 

[acidrain]

The one thing I didn't read in anybody's posts is that you need to know your boil off rate. If you don't know this, boil a measured amount of water and measure how much boils off. Calculate how much will boil off in a standard 60 minute boil.
This will tell you how much pre-boil volume you need for your batch size.

 

[dcbc]

The one thing I didn't read in anybody's posts is that you need to know your boil off rate. If you don't know this, boil a measured amount of water and measure how much boils off. Calculate how much will boil off in a standard 60 minute boil.
This will tell you how much pre-boil volume you need for your batch size.

Excellent point. I lumped that under my "know your system" comment, but what a vague thing to say on my part.

 

[Dmlsys23]

http://youtu.be/h5J8S5nBdUc. For me this was a great visual along with an explanation as to why you do the things you do when batch sparging.