All Grain Equipment? Where to buy?

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spacey

spacey

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I've done a couple dozen extract clone recipes that use 2-3 pounds of grain, but now I'm thinking about doing all grain for the first time. I always keg to 5 gallon corny kegs, so a 10 gallon system makes 5 gallons I've read.

So all grain equipment list is???:

8 gallon hot liquor tank w thermometer
10 gallon mash tun w thermometer
stainless steel adjustable sparge arm
stainless stell false bottom
3/8" ID high temp tubing

Is that correct? Around $450 or so on Amazon?

Northern Brewer has a Megapot kit for $600.

I don't think I'd need to brew more than 5 gallon batches since I only keg, but it has to be 8 gallons anyway for all grain right?

Thanks!!!

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DBhomebrew said:
Or, a $35 bag that fits the kettle you do your extract batches in.
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Okay, but the all gain recipes say that you need all grain equipment? I use a 5 gallon stainless steel pot on the stove top to brew.

What about this thing?
 

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BIAB is all grain. It's simply a one-vessel system. You mash in your boil kettle, remove the grains, bring the wort to a boil. You just need a fine-mesh bag for mashing (look at Wilserbrewer's bags, they're very well-made). And if you don't have one already, a good digital thermometer is essential, as you will need to dial in your mash temps.
 
You can buy a 10 gallon igloo cooler and put a ball valve on it yourself for a lot less than $160, and I don't see a thermometer in the picture of the cooler that you posted.
 
With your 5 gal kettle, you can mash with less than the full amount of strike water, say, 3.5 gallons. (Be sure not to go too thick with your mash.) There are online calculators that will help you determine how much water and grain will fit in a given kettle. Mash, remove the grain bag and let it drain into the kettle, then top off with the rest of the water and boil. Of course, you still won't get a full 5 gallons into your fermenter, as you need to account for boiloff. If you plan to boil wort volume that's almost up to the brim, Fermcap-S is your friend.

But, as mentioned above, stepping up to an 8 or 10 gal kettle would make things much easier.

Edit: If you try BIAB and later decide to go 3-vessel, you haven't wasted much money, just the cost of the bag. You'll still need that bigger kettle and better thermometer, regardless of what all grain method you use.
 
MaxStout said:
With your 5 gal kettle, you can mash with less than the full amount of strike water, say, 3.5 gallons. (Be sure not to go too thick with your mash.) There are online calculators that will help you determine how much water and grain will fit in a given kettle. Mash, remove the grain bag and let it drain into the kettle, then top off with the rest of the water and boil. Of course, you still won't get a full 5 gallons into your fermenter, as you need to account for boiloff. If you plan to boil wort volume that's almost up to the brim, Fermcap-S is your friend.

But, as mentioned above, stepping up to an 8 or 10 gal kettle would make things much easier.

Edit: If you try BIAB and later decide to go 3-vessel, you haven't wasted much money, just the cost of the bag. You'll still need that bigger kettle and better thermometer, regardless of what all grain method you use.
Click to expand...
Okay, so what about I just get the BIAB and a new 8 gallon kettle with thermometer?
 
spacey said:
Okay, so what about I just get the BIAB and a new 8 gallon kettle with thermometer?
Click to expand...
I think you'd be set for most brews. You still may need to hold back a gallon or two of water until after mashout, but that's not a big issue. If you get a preboil volume of say, 6-6.5 gallons, you'll be on track to end up with 5 gallons in your fermenter. Again, the online BIAB calculators, or a program like BeerSmith can help.

In winter I brew indoors with a Megapot 8 gal kettle in the stovetop. I've brewed 5.5-6 gal batches with OG up to 1.080 or so. My stove is electric, so barely enough heat to bring to a boil; I use a 1000W immersion "bucket" heater to help it along. Once boil starts, I pull out the immersion heater and the stove maintains a good, vigorous boil from that point forward.
 
MaxStout said:
I think you'd be set for most brews. You still may need to hold back a gallon or two of water until after mashout, but that's not a big issue. If you get a preboil volume of say, 6-6.5 gallons, you'll be on track to end up with 5 gallons in your fermenter. Again, the online BIAB calculators, or a program like BeerSmith can help.

In winter I brew indoors with a Megapot 8 gal kettle in the stovetop. I've brewed 5.5-6 gal batches with OG up to 1.080 or so. My stove is electric, so barely enough heat to bring to a boil; I use a 1000W immersion "bucket" heater to help it along. Once boil starts, I pull out the immersion heater and the stove maintains a good, vigorous boil from that point forward.
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Okay, thanks. I have a gas stovetop, but also already have a propane tank with burner if needed. I just bought Brewers Friend yesterday.

Will probably get the 10 gallon kettle + BIAB.
 
spacey said:
Okay, thanks. I have a gas stovetop, but also already have a propane tank with burner if needed. I just bought Brewers Friend yesterday.

Will probably get the 10 gallon kettle + BIAB.
Click to expand...

Before you go for a new kettle, make a trip to your big box lumber store and buy a pair of paint strainer bags. Use them with the kettle you were using to do the extract beers and make a few half size batches so you don't have a lot of beer to drink of one kind as you learn the process. Once you have brewed a few batches, you will have a better idea of what you really need or want.
 
Coastalbrew said:
I would also look at electric all in one systems. They range from the very simple to the much more elaborate, prices vary accordingly. But I really can't say enough good things about them.
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yeah. While I love watching videos of the beautiful stainless steel 3 vessel systems in a remodeled brew room, having switched to an AIO (Anvil Foundry) and its simplicity, I don't think I'd ever go back. My brew day is so much more enjoyable, clean up easy and it stores way neatly. I used to think I was compromising as a calculated trade off, but the more I brew with it, the more I am convinced it's a win-win choice, with me winning both sides of the equation.

To the OP, the anvil foundry 10.5 which is arguably the 5 gallon batch size for most brews styles, is $525 (includes the price of the recirculation pump). Granted having a 220v outlet is desirable as 110v falls short for 5 gallon brews. It's worth consideration (as are other AIO electrics )
 
An 8 gallon kettle might be adequate as a boil kettle only but if you are going to go the BIAB route... which I recommend... then using that same kettle as a mash tun is going to limit how much grain you can use and thus limit the gravity of the beers you make. I would suggest at least a 10 gallon kettle. And if you imagine that someday you might want to try making 5 gallon batches of a high gravity imperial stout or great big barley wine a 15 gallon kettle works great.
 
One other point worth mentioning is that with all-grain, water chemistry becomes important. You don't need to go up to your elbows in chemistry, so don't let that intimidate you. But a basic understanding of your water and the types of beer you are brewing deserves some attention. The "if your water tastes good it's good enough for brewing" trope doesn't cut it. AJ deLange has a helpful primer on water that will get you in the ballpark.
 
I got my stuff all on Craigslist. 8.5 gal pot.

I almost always use Fermcap-S. Well, really Simethicone (Link to Walmart) since the product is cheaper, and local.
The Simethicone is just a store brand infant gas-relief drops. I use like 10 drops for the boil.

I also got a ready-made 5 and 10am mash tun.
 
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RM-MN said:
Before you go for a new kettle, make a trip to your big box lumber store and buy a pair of paint strainer bags. Use them with the kettle you were using to do the extract beers and make a few half size batches so you don't have a lot of beer to drink of one kind as you learn the process. Once you have brewed a few batches, you will have a better idea of what you really need or want.
Click to expand...
That ^ would be my recommendation too, you can do all-grain that way without spending a ton of money on equipment. Half-size batches (2-3 gallons) have a lot of charm, giving you much more variety. Lately, I've been splitting 5-6 gallon batches for a similar reason, using different hops or other additions in each.

With smaller batches you can often keep your mash in a pre-warmed (but turned-off) oven too.

One thing that's missing from this discussion is your heating source.
Larger batches also need a properly sized heating source. If you now brew in the kitchen on your stove, you probably won't be able to do 5 gallon (full volume, all-grain) batches that way. Most stoves cannot boil 7 gallons of wort, while they work fine with 3-4 gallons.

In case you don't want to do BIAB, most plastic coolers, even rectangular ones, can be converted to a mash/lauter tun. The key is to select one that's 1) the right size, and 2) where the outlet is placed as low as possible, best if recessed somewhat in the bottom. You'd get much better draining from that, although there are ways around it if it's placed somewhat higher. A false bottom (or manifold) is only required when fly sparging, and there are better and easier alternatives for small (3-10 gallon) batches.

In that light, you really don't need a Hot Liquor Tank (HLT) either, as it would be only essential in a 3-vessel system. There are better, cheaper, and easier alternatives when brewing smaller batches, even up to 10 gallons. BIAB works fine with a dunk sparge in a large bucket, or doing batch sparging in a converted cooler mash tun.
 
MaxStout said:
One other point worth mentioning is that with all-grain, water chemistry becomes important. You don't need to go up to your elbows in chemistry, so don't let that intimidate you. But a basic understanding of your water and the types of beer you are brewing deserves some attention. The "if your water tastes good it's good enough for brewing" trope doesn't cut it. AJ deLange has a helpful primer on water that will get you in the ballpark.
Click to expand...
I always use spring water from the store, the water here is high in calcium.
 
To add my .02, and that is really all it is worth LOL, I have a 10 gallon Gasone Kettle that I use. I put the bag in, do my mash, I use my old 5 gallon pot that I got from NB way back when to add about 2 gallons of "dunk sparge" water. I end up with about 6.5 to 7 gallons of wort and off I go. The Gasone came with the ball valve and a bazooka screen. Even though I am doing BIAB, the screen is nice to have and still catches some of the crap from going into the fermenter. I bought a 10 gallon Igloo used from a guy local for 25 bucks and got all the stuff off Amazon for another 10 to 15. I am going to fool around with it one day as I have to figure out temp loss when I put the hot water in. Other than that, I recommend the Gasone. It seems to hold the heat really well works great for BIAB in my opinion Rock On!!!!!!
 
spacey said:
I always use spring water from the store, the water here is high in calcium.
Click to expand...
Water chemistry can be a big topic to dive into...but "high in calcium" is seldom a big problem for brewing water (unless all you brew are pale lagers). Often it is the bicarbonate that may come along with the calcium that is an issue. Using spring water is not a bad way to go if you don't know what is in your tap water.

As far as this topic, I tend to think that the cooler based mashtuns were great when that was about the only option. These days, either single vessel BIAB or the single vessel all-in-one systems are the best systems for making typical 5 gallon (or smaller) batches. I used to brew 3-vessel fly sparge, but moved to BIAB 3-4 years ago.
 
spacey said:
Okay, thanks. I have a gas stovetop, but also already have a propane tank with burner if needed. I just bought Brewers Friend yesterday.

Will probably get the 10 gallon kettle + BIAB.
Click to expand...


10 gallon kettle is good, but a 15 gallon kettle is better for BIAB. Plenty of space. I know you don't do 10 gallon batches, but you may change your mind in the future. There's not much difference in price between a 10 gallon and 15 gallon kettle.

I like the suggestions of just getting the paint strainer bags and use those with what you already have and do small batches. I'd go that route. Then when you want to make the jump, get a 15 gallon kettle since you have a dedicated burner.
 
Don't forget to figure out what you want then check Craigslist.com. Type in: "Home brew beer" and see what's around.
 
CascadesBrewer said:
Water chemistry can be a big topic to dive into...but "high in calcium" is seldom a big problem for brewing water (unless all you brew are pale lagers). Often it is the bicarbonate that may come along with the calcium that is an issue. Using spring water is not a bad way to go if you don't know what is in your tap water.

As far as this topic, I tend to think that the cooler based mashtuns were great when that was about the only option. These days, either single vessel BIAB or the single vessel all-in-one systems are the best systems for making typical 5 gallon (or smaller) batches. I used to brew 3-vessel fly sparge, but moved to BIAB 3-4 years ago.
Click to expand...
I agree. My Gasone kettle is great and holds temps very solid for the 60 min mashes. I just never am satisfied and like to fool around with the DYI realm. So, the cooler mash tun, homemade keg washer and small cooler recycler for my wort chiller have been fun little projects. Next is going to be a way to insulate the closet I use to ferment so I can control my temps a bit better. Most of this stuff is probably easier and more cost effective to buy, but I dig doing it myself.
 
I started with a Klarstein all in one from Amazon. Painfully long to boil, and always got gunk on the bottom. Now I use it just for mashing, with a bag, it allows step mashing, which is why i will keep using it, and I boil in my 10 gallon GasOne stainless steel kettle. It has a valve, temp gauge and everything
 
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