Agri Supply 6" ring burner

[stadtbrau]

So I found these burners on Agri supply.

http://www.agrisupply.com/product.asp?pn=40282&ss=burner&bhcd2=1292372911

I wasnt able to find very much on these burners on this forum but I liked Low pressure and 70,000 BTU for 10 bucks. The only person on this forum that I saw, used these with a High pressure adjustable regulator. I bought 3 of these and am doing some tests with 5 gallons of water before mounting them to my stand. Wondering if anybody uses these. If so....

How far below the kettle are they mounted?
What regulator do you use?
Boil time?

My results with a Low pressure regulator so far lead me to believe that these will be absoulutly perfect for the automated HLT and MLT. They make 0 noise and are pretty hot. Wont blow out a pilot light and gentle enough not to worry about scorching and such. Problem I have seen so far is that I dont think these will boil fast enough or vigurous enough. My first test I wasnt actually able to get to boil. I think it was way to far away from the kettle. I am in the middle of test two and its much closer now and seems to be working alot better.

 

[stadtbrau]

Alright... Reached boil. Took 49 minutes from 93 degress. I still think this burner could be mounted alot higher so ill have to try again tommorow. The boil is way to gentle.. no way this set up would do 10 gallons. Can I just use a high pressure regulator with this burner for the boil kettle only? or sould I get a new low pressure burner that can boil up 5 or 10 gallon batches in a reasonable time? Or a high pressure one i guess?

 

[Catt22]

You can run the 6" ring burners as either high or low pressure provided you get the correct orifice and regulator. IMO, you really would be best off running the BK burner as a high pressure regulator at 10 or 15 psi. That will give you the power you need. You can easily run the MT burner as low pressure. The heat demand is much less than for a BK. I'd go high pressure for both the BK and the HLT and low pressure for the MT if possible.

 

[stadtbrau]

Oriface? The thing threaded into the front of the burner? Where can I get the right one? Do I need to drill anything out or tap new threads?
Does any one know how this particular burner performs with high pressure?
Also I dont think high pressure will be needed for the HLT. It gets up to 170 in 15 or 20 minutes which will be fine. Will have lots of time during mash.

 

[Hex]

I'm basically using that, mine's a rusted salvage. I made my own orifice (0.050") and am using a welding regulator. Plenty of power for '5 gallon' batches.

 

[Catt22]

Oriface? The thing threaded into the front of the burner? Where can I get the right one? Do I need to drill anything out or tap new threads?
Does any one know how this particular burner performs with high pressure?
Also I dont think high pressure will be needed for the HLT. It gets up to 170 in 15 or 20 minutes which will be fine. Will have lots of time during mash.

Yes, the orifice is typically incorporated into the brass fitting right at the burner intake. The orifice is actually the small hole that the gas passes through on the way into the burner venturi tube. High pressure orifices have a smaller hole than the low pressure versions. What that means is that you can drill out a high pressure orifice to enlarge the hole for use with a low pressure regulator, but obviously not the other way around.

Here's a source for the high pressure orifice that will fit the 6" ring burner:

http://www.bbqguys.com/item_name_Ba...-Burner-Only_path_11428-9786_item_316966.html

You might be able to find one cheaper with a little searching. That place rocks you on the shipping charges.

The Bayou Classic SQ-14 uses that same burner with this orifice and a variable 0-10 psi regulator. I have one and it's my preferred burner. I have several different ones. One of my others is a low pressure version of the same 6" ring burner. It also works well and I use it on my direct fired MT, but it has substantially less power than the one set up for high pressure gas. That's not a problem as I don't need the high power for the MT.

The thing about using a high pressure burner on your HLT is that the power is available if you need it, but you can dial it down as desired so there is no real downside to running it as a high pressure unit. Actually, all three burners could be high pressure with no real downside. I only have the one low pressure burner because it was the first one I bought before I had any idea what the differences were.

 

[oceanselv]

I'm using the same burner with a 10 PSI regulator on this burner from Agri-Supply. http://www.agrisupply.com/banjo-burner-gas-cooker/p/64482/cn/5400001/ I have a thin walled 10 gallon pot and can go from mash to boil within 20 minutes. The burner is very quiet even when I crank the regulator and valve wide open to begin my boil. I'd highly recommend the burner.

 

[Catt22]

I'm using the same burner with a 10 PSI regulator on this burner from Agri-Supply. http://www.agrisupply.com/banjo-burner-gas-cooker/p/64482/cn/5400001/ I have a thin walled 10 gallon pot and can go from mash to boil within 20 minutes. The burner is very quiet even when I crank the regulator and valve wide open to begin my boil. I'd highly recommend the burner.

FYI, mines not all that quiet when running at wide open throttle. I'm curious as to why mine would be different than yours. I seldom run it wide open, but when I do it roars.

 

[stadtbrau]

Alright... Just ran across this.

http://www.agrisupply.com/product.asp?pn=41678&sid=&eid=

It has a female 3/8 flare fitting just like the low pressure regulator that I have which fits right on the oriface that came with the burners. Cant I just use this? It goes to 5 PSI. Thats 10 times higher than the low pressure one that I ran my tests with today... Should be plenty I would think... any thoughts?

 

[Catt22]

Alright... Just ran across this.

http://www.agrisupply.com/product.asp?pn=41678&sid=&eid=

It has a female 3/8 flare fitting just like the low pressure regulator that I have which fits right on the oriface that came with the burners. Cant I just use this? It goes to 5 PSI. Thats 10 times higher than the low pressure one that I ran my tests with today... Should be plenty I would think... any thoughts?

No, the (0-5 psi) regulator won't give you enough power. You want a (0-10) or (0-15 psi) adjustable regulator or a 10 psi fixed pressure version. It's really difficult to navigate that Agrisupply site. They may have the (0-10)'s but I have not been able to find it. You could try calling them, but IME that can be very hit or miss depending on who you happen to get on the phone. Some of the help there are rather clueless. Not all of them, but some are. Anyway, here's the regulator I would get from another source:

http://www.bbqguys.com/item_name_Ba...se-And-10-P_path_11428-9786_item_1509127.html

That regulator is supplied with the correct high pressure orifice and it shoudl thread right into your burner. IIRC, the threads on the burner are regular 1/4" NPT (national pipe thread).

 

[stadtbrau]

Iirc?

 

[Catt22]

Iirc?

IIRC = If I recall correctly

 

[stadtbrau]

Ok well I went in the garage and took apart my turkey fryer which has that same 10 psi regulator that you just referenced. It took me a while to get it working because it kept blowing itself out. Once i finnally did though and did a boil test i was really impressed. I got 5 gallons of tap water up to 154 in 10 minutes... from there i was at a roaring boil in15 more minutes exactlly. So we are in business now! I will have to mount this one a bit lower than the other two for sure though... it really throws the fire up.. still almost silent though.

 

[stadtbrau]

Now my problem is that I really like the brass elbow orifice that came with the burner... I dont like the straight one that is on this high pressure regulator. And the hole in the end of them look exactly the same. Can I use this regulator on the original brass elbow that it came with? Would have to use a different hose Or maybe some elbow adapter or something. I just cant go straight out with it because of the design of the stand. The end of the burner is right at the edge of the stand so I would like the hose or copper pipe I use to go straight down. Make sense?
Thanks for all the help guys.

 

[Catt22]

Yes, you can find the needed elbow or most any other fittings you might need at Home Depot or just about any good hardware store. Most of these stoves use 1/4" NPT threaded fittings and connect to the gas with 3/8" flare fittings. This stuff is common in the plumbing departments so you should be able to get it locally no problem. Here's a link though in case you need it or want to read the descriptions: http://www.flameengineering.com/Brass_Fittings.html

Usually you can easily separate the components of a regulator/hose/orifice assembly and arrange it however you want.

FYI, the optimum distance between a burner and the kettle bottom is about 4-5" in most cases. This is only a ballpark number for a typical burner. Whatever the distance is on your turkey fryer should be about right.

Another FYI on the burners sometimes blowing themselves out. I've found that it's best to run the burner for a couple of minutes to let the casting warm up, then adjust the air damper and flame height to whatever you need. They seem to work better with a little warm up time and you can run at a higher flame level. It's important to adjust the air damper properly at different flame levels.

 

[smakudwn]

I have those burners and i didn't change out the orifice from the brass elbows that came with it and i have no issues.

 

[stadtbrau]

I have those burners and i didn't change out the orifice from the brass elbows that came with it and i have no issues.

And which regulator do you use?

 

[Catt22]

I have those burners and i didn't change out the orifice from the brass elbows that came with it and i have no issues.

Makes sense to me. Why would you want to change anything if it's working properly? Perhaps I'm missing your point.

 

[stadtbrau]

Makes sense to me. Why would you want to change anything if it's working properly? Perhaps I'm missing your point.

The point..or question really... was that I bouht these burners as low pressure burners so I thought you said that the oriface in the brass elbow that it came with was too large for a high pressure regulator.

 

[Catt22]

The point..or question really... was that I bouht these burners as low pressure burners so I thought you said that the oriface in the brass elbow that it came with was too large for a high pressure regulator.

LOL...Not you! The post was directed to Smakudwn.

 

[stadtbrau]

LOL...Not you! The post was directed to Smakudwn.

Well we dont know which regulator he is using.

 

[smakudwn]

i'm using a 10 psi regulator. Just stating what i use and it works well.

 

[smakudwn]

Makes sense to me. Why would you want to change anything if it's working properly? Perhaps I'm missing your point.

I guess I am confused as to why the OP needed to swap out the orifice at all?

 

[stadtbrau]

I guess I am confused as to why the OP needed to swap out the orifice at all?

So is the OP. Not going to now!! Thanks!
I just wanted to hear that someone has it setup like I was planning on and yours is exactly like I was planning.

 

[smakudwn]

hhahaha.

no problem.

 

[magnj]

How is this turning out for you guys using the low pressure burner with high pressure regs. Should I go for 0-10 or 0-30?

 

[Mike_A]

I just ordered this burner today, and 2 BG14's from Amazon. I also just bought a 0-20psi reg because I was seeing 10psi regs with the BG12 and 30psi with the BG14. The BG12 will be direct firing my MLT, while the BG14's will be for the HLT and BK. I'll let you know how it goes when it's ready. Oh, and the kettles are all 25gal sooo it will be a true test.

 

[J-Malone]

ok, I am thinking about buying the Agrisupply 6" burners for my new single tier with Keggles. I will be doing 5 gallon batches mostly, but might throw in an occassional 10 gallon. Here is what I am thinking as far as setup for the plumbing of the burners...

Propane tank to 0-30 psi regulator to the hard plumbed main line. there will be 3 tees to run gas to each burner, I will add a needle valve to each line running to the burner to help control the flame and I plan to have at least 2 if not all 3 with HP orifices.

Would this work? I realize there might be some different little pieces between the needle and orifice, but in general can I have the regulator control the overall psi of the flow to the overall system the use the needle valve to control the flow to the individual burners?

 

[Catt22]

ok, I am thinking about buying the Agrisupply 6" burners for my new single tier with Keggles. I will be doing 5 gallon batches mostly, but might throw in an occassional 10 gallon. Here is what I am thinking as far as setup for the plumbing of the burners...

Propane tank to 0-30 psi regulator to the hard plumbed main line. there will be 3 tees to run gas to each burner, I will add a needle valve to each line running to the burner to help control the flame and I plan to have at least 2 if not all 3 with HP orifices.

Would this work? I realize there might be some different little pieces between the needle and orifice, but in general can I have the regulator control the overall psi of the flow to the overall system the use the needle valve to control the flow to the individual burners?

Yes, but I would use HP orifices in all three burners.

 

[J-Malone]

Yes, but I would use HP orifices in all three burners.

Thanks!