Adding a collar to my kegerator

[redrocker652002]

OK, so I got the thinking the other day about trying to expand the area in my fermenting fridge without having to try and bend the ice try and take a chance on breaking the supply line. I thought about screwing a 2x4 collar around the door, but did not want to cut or drill into the side of the fridge. So, my thought was, what about Gorilla glue? Has anybody used this to get wood to stick to the opening of a fridge? I might give it a go.

 

[day_trippr]

Quite a few collar efforts described on these pages used Gorilla Glue.

https://www.google.com/search?q=site:homebrewtalk.com+gorilla+glue+collar

I think double-sided tape would suffice, and would enable "recovery" if an construction error is incurred (ie: it's not permanent). Same could be said of silicone caulk. Also, at least one of the threads you'll find in that search described Gorilla Glue breaking down over a disturbingly short period...

Cheers!

 

[redrocker652002]

Quite a few collar efforts described on these pages used Gorilla Glue.

https://www.google.com/search?q=site:homebrewtalk.com+gorilla+glue+collar

I think double-sided tape would suffice, and would enable "recovery" if an construction error is incurred (ie: it's not permanent). Same could be said of silicone caulk. Also, at least one of the threads you'll find in that search described Gorilla Glue breaking down over a disturbingly short period...

Cheers!

Never thought of the double sided tape. That could for sure be an option as I think I have a roll or two of that stuff laying around. thanks.

 

[redrocker652002]

In looking at the links, they are for keezers, but I am looking for something that will work with a small dorm fridge that I am currently using as my fermenter fridge. I am going to try the silicone and use a strap clamp to keep it all in place while the silicone dried. I am worried that the weight of the 2x4 will be too much for the silicone to hold. Other good suggestions like liquid nails might be strong enough as well. Either way, if it doesn't work they are all easy to scrap off.

 

[mac_1103]

I am worried that the weight of the 2x4 will be too much for the silicone to hold.

Put feet on the collar to support the weight so the caulk only has to hold it in place rather than holding it up. Or screw an extra piece of wood to the top of the collar that will sit on the fridge and carry some of the weight. Or do both.

 

[jerrylotto]

A chest freezer is the easiest thing to which you can adapt a.collar. Unscrew the top lid, build a four-sided collar and rest it on the base, glue it if you wish then reattach the lid. Reattach the lidlite wire and you're done. If you're not tall, and you don't mind attaching pivoting feet to the lid. You can permanently attach the top to the collar and leave the hinge with the base to the collar, which is what I did.

 

[mac_1103]

A chest freezer is the easiest thing to which you can adapt a.collar.

It's not a chest freezer.

 

[jerrylotto]

It's not a chest freezer.

I realize that, I was making a recommendation for an alternative setup.

 

[whoaru99]

There are polyurethane-type construction adhesives that would probably be my choice.

Don't recall that I've ever tried silicone to glue to wood, only as caulk on painted wood.

Like any adhesive/bonding exercise, proper surface prep is a key success factor.

 

[dmbrew48]

Have the same ferm chamber / small dorm fridge - remove door & note location of threaded inserts for actual door (should be reversable- make a template of hole locations to mount door to collar - for top & bottom) - build your extension / collar. Get some angle iron with1.5 ~ 2" legs & cut 2 pcs long enough to extend past the door mounting screw holes & a similar distance on to the collar. Depending on fridge & collar size, angle iron for bottom may be needed also. I used painters tape on face of fridge & silicone between it & collar. Then place collar in position, bolt pcs of angle to fridge / wood screws to collar, & add top door bracket on collar using the template. Lay the fridge on it's back & use your template to mark bottom door mount. Add angle iron if needed, mark & screw on lower door mount. Stand it up, add the door, and give it a day or so for all to stabilize. Hope this makes sense - Brew on.

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

Put feet on the collar to support the weight so the caulk only has to hold it in place rather than holding it up. Or screw an extra piece of wood to the top of the collar that will sit on the fridge and carry some of the weight. Or do both.

Add a strap to the collar to hold it too. Lots of ideas to hold it in place without screwing into the fridge.

 

[redrocker652002]

All great ideas that I am going to take a look at. I am thinking of trying just using either liquid nails or some sort of strong silicone first. If that does now work I have a few other ideas too. Thanks to all who replied. Keep the ideas coming.

 

[FloppyKnockers]

I'm gonna go the other way and say just bend the freezer tray. I went years without bending mine and used a Vittles Vault or one of these guys instead. I finally got fed up with with trying to keep a seal on the Vittles Vault and the time cleaning the Hedpack and just went for it. I started defrosted and slow. I kept a deep socket behind the cooling line for support and it went smooth as silk. After it was bent, I printed a couple of little clips to keep the shelf in place. Now I can use any bucket in my arsenal in there. I figured if it went bad, I was only out like 60 bucks.

 

[redrocker652002]

I'm gonna go the other way and say just bend the freezer tray. I went years without bending mine and used a Vittles Vault or one of these guys instead. I finally got fed up with with trying to keep a seal on the Vittles Vault and the time cleaning the Hedpack and just went for it. I started defrosted and slow. I kept a deep socket behind the cooling line for support and it went smooth as silk. After it was bent, I printed a couple of little clips to keep the shelf in place. Now I can use any bucket in my arsenal in there. I figured if it went bad, I was only out like 60 bucks.

The deep socket is an interesting idea. That keeps the line somewhat curved. How big a socket did you use? Was it dependent on how much room you had between the shelf and the back of the fridge?

 

[day_trippr]

Is the cold plate in question connected to the compressor using a single (ie: coaxial) tube?
I'd be super cautious trying to bend one of those...

Cheers!

 

[redrocker652002]

Is the cold plate in question connected to the compressor using a single (ie: coaxial) tube?
I'd be super cautious trying to bend one of those...

Cheers!

I agree. I am going to start with a 2x4 collar and go from there. My hope is I can get two corny kegs in the fridge to do keg fermentation and dry hopping.

 

[Cameronl]

I did mine a couple of years ago with just silicone caulk and it's holding up fine. Since the door is held closed by magnets in the gasket, I had to add a toggle latch to hold the door closed.

 

[Willy]

Silicone... Adhesive can hold it just fine. Look for the kind that includes a strong adhesive on the silicone. I would first take the 2*4 box and secure all the corners with a simple angle brace on each corner to ensure there is no wobbliness. Also not a bad idea to include a removable block of wood to keep it stable and if needed remove the blocks to move it.

For better closure you can put some powerful magnets on the 2*4 and the door so it "locks" into place. Neodymium magnets are very strong and should work fine.

 

[redrocker652002]

I am going to try a 2x6 collar to see if I can get two cornies in the fridge for fermenting and dry hoping. The 2x6 were only about 7 bucks a piece so worth a try. I have some angle iron and will figure out a latching system for the door. If this works, I will be able to ferment, dry hop and transfer without it seeing any O2 exposure, which would be really cool. And I can start using all the kegs I have. LOL

 

[Cameronl]

For better closure you can put some powerful magnets on the 2*4 and the door so it "locks" into place. Neodymium magnets are very strong and should work fine.

Toggle clamp is much easier and cheaper, and I definitely trust it more.

 

[Willy]

Toggle clamp is much easier and cheaper, and I definitely trust it more.
View attachment 854734

Agree on all counts. Excellent solution

 

[redrocker652002]

Toggle clamp is much easier and cheaper, and I definitely trust it more.
View attachment 854734

That is what I was thinking. Gonna get the collar fitted and secured first and then worry about closing it. LOL