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90 or 60 min boil and why???

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I have only done one lager and that was an extract kit and a huge flop. I have been putting off any more until i get a designated fermentation fridge instead of using my keezer. I'm glad the the OP asked this question because i tend to like lighter /less roasty beers and will have to consider that when making really light ales in the future.:cool:
 
If you want to get some great information on DMS, listen to Jamil Z & John Palmer's Brew Strong podcast on it. It's free on iTunes. They break it down scientifically from all grain to extract applications.

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Also on the "hotside aeration show" Dr Bamforth mentions that one brewery injects air into the boil to help strip off DMS. Or at least that's my recollection.
 
+1 on jamil show. Listening now. They just said that half life of DMS is 36 minutes at 100 C. Half life at 96 C doubled. So it makes a huge difference. I have an addition question. If I am paranoid since I already failed two ales with DMS, can I also increase boil to 90 min or say 75? When do I add my 60 min hop? Right at boil or wait until 60 left?
 
+1 on jamil show. Listening now. They just said that half life of DMS is 36 minutes at 100 C. Half life at 96 C doubled. So it makes a huge difference. I have an addition question. If I am paranoid since I already failed two ales with DMS, can I also increase boil to 90 min or say 75? When do I add my 60 min hop? Right at boil or wait until 60 left?

What grains are you using for your ales? You shouldn't need anything more than 60 minutes unless your using pilsner malt, which really isn't for Ales. I do a 90 minute anyway, but for other reasons.

As far as when to add your hops, you do it as to whatever you put into your software. I've been playing around with no early hop additions. I've been starting at 30 minutes. I can still get the same bitterness but I just use more hops. I believe that it's called "hops bursting" if you want to do a search.
 
It's actually just the centennial blonde posted in the forum. It is not a DMS prone beer. I am going make it tomorrow. It's not a matter of boiling longer I was just wondering. I just need a better boil then I have had previously.
 
If you want your recipe parameters (IBUs) to stay the same, just keep the hop additions the same. Boil the first 30 minutes, then add your 60 minute hop addition. The only thing that should change is your mash/sparge water amount to compensate for the extra boil off.

If you aren't using any pilsner or other extremely light malt, you should be fine with a 60 minute boil. I know it's better to be safe than sorry though if you still want to go with 90 minutes.

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You shouldn't need anything more than 60 minutes unless your using pilsner malt, which really isn't for Ales.
(bold = mine)

Would our Belgian friends agree with you on that? ;)

Just nit-picking, though. In general I think you're on point with this advice!
 
What grains are you using for your ales? You shouldn't need anything more than 60 minutes unless your using pilsner malt, which really isn't for Ales. I do a 90 minute anyway, but for other reasons.

As far as when to add your hops, you do it as to whatever you put into your software. I've been playing around with no early hop additions. I've been starting at 30 minutes. I can still get the same bitterness but I just use more hops. I believe that it's called "hops bursting" if you want to do a search.

not to hijack the thread but for what reasons do you do 90 mins?
 
I did read the thread, the ideas stated were DMS reduction, protien coagulation, increase in IBUs, and minor bump in efficency. I really, just wanted to know what specific reasons that yinzer2 has decided to do 90 min boils, since yinzer2 didn't elaborate.
 
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