Then you can use 10AWG wire to you SSR's. You will need 30A fuses in all hot lines when going to 10AWG wire from the main feed. Doesn't matter the SSR's are rated for 80A, as you won't draw more than 23A with 5500W.
Brew on
I understand that but when your panel is on there is always juice going to the ssr right? so they are always on and switching whether your contactor after the ssr is on or off. also ive seen in some cases where they fail and have a meltdown. in your setup you cant simply shut off the contactor supplying power to the malfuctioning ssr and brew with another output unless im missing something. Your way will work, I just believe the other way has more advantages as does controlling each element with its own dedicated ssr switch. due to power restrictions, I use a 3 way switch to only allow one contactor at a time to be on and supply power to one kettle at a time in my setup so wiring the contactor first just seemed safer with less components running at once.
your putting a large amount of load on that single little terminal there ... My fear would be the chance of things heating up and failing at that connection point that way has been increased is all. If it were mine it would be worth spending the $10-20 or so for another identical mager ssr shipped (like this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/Solid-State...970710?hash=item25b042ff56:g:s6cAAOSwT5tWLvxp) or even spend a bit more for the relabeled one from auber if their warranty is better. smaller loads on components and terminals is always the better way to go if easily achievable the ssrs will be subjected to less heat and stress. Again just my thoughts.. you can certainly ignore them if you like.
