6.5 gallon corny keg - an affordable stainless fermenter, FINALLY!

[Baja_Brewer]

Since I've been doing 2.5-3 gallon batches in my Picobrew Zymatic using my 5 gallon kegs for the brew (gotta have room for all the starting water) and fermentation, I've really been enjoying fermenting in my minifridge fermentation and doing closed vessel transfers, have you have done in this thread.

Out of curiosity, I plugged a 5G final volume batch into the Recipe Crafter and maxed out the grain additions at 9lbs. It looks like an OG of 1.05 could be attained if one were to do the multi-step high efficiency mash, which could ferment down to a ~5.5% ABV beer. Not bad.

I probably won't give it a shot, since these kegs are $120 AND I can't even drink the 3 gallon batches I'm making - but its nice to know these exist! Keep us updated!

 

[Goforthegusto]

Since it's been a while from the original post, I was wondering how your experience continues to be? I am very interested in going this route.

 

[Ethanfox]

Since it's been a while from the original post, I was wondering how your experience continues to be? I am very interested in going this route.

Thanks for the reminder - I've been meaning to post an update, but laziness has always prevailed.

I'm still using them! I did run into two issues:

1: The dip tubes were low quality, and the lips (which prevent them from falling into the keg) broke off of one liquid and one gas dip tube. As such, I replaced all 4 (2 kegs) with better quality parts.

2: When I dry hop for my IPAs, the small dip tubes get clogged, so I have to siphon the beer out. Not a big deal. Sometimes even with my regular beers I still siphon out of laziness anyway.

Otherwise, I love them. When I cold crash, I charge them with ~20psi of CO2, which prevents oxygen from being sucked in as the temperature drops, which has been the case with any other fermentation vessel I've ever used. Having the beer in stainless free of O2 gives me the option to just let it sit for a long time without worry. I also fill the headspace with CO2 after adding dry hops to keep the O2 levels to a minimum. As you may have guessed, I get lazy, and have left my beers sitting in the fermenters for much longer than my initial schedule has called for. Peace of mind is great.

 

[stonebrewer]

I am doing something similar with my IPAs (closed system transfers, natural carbonation). I took some 400 mesh screen, cut it to size, wrapped it around the dip tube to get proper fit, soldered it and crimped one end. This slips over my dip tube and prevents any trub or hop matter from clogging the tube or other small parts...you can also buy them from AIH if you are not handy or don't want to bother making them yourself...

http://www.homebrewing.org/Corny-Keg-Dip-Tube-Screen_p_2091.html

 

[ferm.adventures]

I still plan on getting at least one of these kegs as a primary, but I think one of these (http://www.clearbeerdraughtsystem.com) would help with transfers. Draws beer from the top of the keg to avoid the trub and hops. I use them in my kegs and love them.

 

[govner1]

+++1 on the Clear Beer draught system. I currently have one in three kegs. Really makes a difference!
I also have dip tube screens on all my other kegs. Since I frequently keg condition I've also shortened the dip tubes by about 1/2".

 

[mintyice]

Anyone have an alternate link for these kegs?

 

[Ethanfox]

Looks like they don't have any at the moment. Might want to contact William's Brewing to see if they plan on getting more in

 

[mintyice]

Looks like they don't have any at the moment. Might want to contact William's Brewing to see if they plan on getting more in

Just found a source on eBay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/24-5L-Stain...722627?hash=item41b6eae903:g:474AAOSwal5YGZyv

$190 though!

 

[BrewinSoldier]

Just found a source on eBay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/24-5L-Stain...722627?hash=item41b6eae903:g:474AAOSwal5YGZyv

$190 though!

$205 now. That's too much for a corny fermenter. You are getting into ssbrewtech almost at that price. I shot an email to Williams so I'll post back when I hear from them.

I was brainstorming ideas for more Conicals and one of these with a brewjacket and a stainless filter over the diptube might just be the ticket. Then throw in your keezer for a day or two to cold crash and transfer right from the keezer into the serving keg and swap them out. At $120 for the keg and $199/EA for the heated/cooled brewjacket if you buy 3, you'd be at $320 for a heated/cooled stainless fermenter that you can do pressurized transfers in with pretty much zero o2 exposure. You'd probably have to buy a neoprene jacket too for the keg to help keep fermenting temps.

Edit:got ahold of Williams brewing and they said they will not be getting anymore of these and that they have been "discontinued" which is really too bad. At the $120 price point they would've worked out awesome.

 

[Goforthegusto]

I purchaced 1 from Williams, and when it came I could not get it to seal. It was obvious that the opening was poorly machined and appeared warped. I called them, and their customer service was excellent. They quickly sent me out a thicker O ring made for difficult lid situations. I got it 2 days later, but it did not help. I called them again, and they sent me out a whole new keg after I sent them photos of the defective one (the opening was so bad, it was pretty easy to see, even on a photo. Well, the new one was exactly the same. I am speculating that there was a significant quality control issue and they are no longer carrying them. They just don't have the same quality of build as the corny kegs we are generally accustomed to. Now, all this said, with a lot of elbow grease, and trial and error, I was able to manipulate the opening (rubber mallet, wood bocks, channel locks, etc) enough to get them to seal under pressure, at least enough that I trust them for a fermentor, but not as a serving vessel. I have done a number of batches and had no problems with them at all. I need to work on taking photos of my blow-off system, as it works very well. I use a type F camlock (from stainless brewing) that is welded into a corny lid, and then have a high flow type C camlock with 1/2 inch silicone tubing coming off it into sanitized water for an airlock. I have a tube clamp on the silicone tubing, so when I want to sample or transfer, I just close the clamp, pressurize with a bit of CO2, and use the liquid out side to sample or transfer. Works great.

 

[Ethanfox]

Thats too bad. I got these when they were first listed, both worked perfectly. The beverage dip tube broke on one, but otherwise they've been great. Sorry to hear they're being discontinued, I had hoped to get more someday.

 

[ferm.adventures]

Yep, too bad. I had my eyes on these. Will have to wait on a conical I guess.

 

[passedpawn]

damned. This thread started out so promising. I'm looking to go closed fermentor and those 6.5 cornies would have been perfect.

 

[TexasWine]

damned. This thread started out so promising. I'm looking to go closed fermentor and those 6.5 cornies would have been perfect.

I debated these 6.5 gallon cornies back in the summer for closed fermentation but ended up getting regular 5 gallon cornies instead because the $/gallon was cheaper. Plus having kegs all the same size is nice because they're completely interchangeable.

I picked up some from AIH for super cheap when they were running a sale. My typical batch size is 6 gallons and I just split it between two. But I've done up to 8 gallon batches, 4 gallons in each. I also made a manifold so that I can have up to 4 ball lock connections to a single spunding valve. So in theory I could ferment 16 gallons split between 4 cornies and use only 1 spunding valve.

Just another option if you've got the space for a few more cornies.

 

[passedpawn]

I debated these 6.5 gallon cornies back in the summer for closed fermentation but ended up getting regular 5 gallon cornies instead because the $/gallon was cheaper. Plus having kegs all the same size is nice because they're completely interchangeable.

I picked up some from AIH for super cheap when they were running a sale. My typical batch size is 6 gallons and I just split it between two. But I've done up to 8 gallon batches, 4 gallons in each. I also made a manifold so that I can have up to 4 ball lock connections to a single spunding valve. So in theory I could ferment 16 gallons split between 4 cornies and use only 1 spunding valve.

Just another option if you've got the space for a few more cornies.

Thanks, I needed that perspective. I've got tons of cornies sitting around here, and my fermentation chamber can hold tons. You're right, I should just ferment in the 5g cornies. Wow, yet another inflection point in this nutty hobby/obsession.

 

[Tommydee]

Someone just refreshed the glass carboy nightmare thread, I tweaked my back a few months back, and just don't like fermenting in plastic. I know the extractibles/leachables profiles from my work, and i seriously think all beverages taste better in glass than plastic...water, beer, Coca Cola, etc. next best to glass is stainless. Cant see why a non pro would spend on conical vs just using a corny. I'm already standard on pinlock kegs and they are dirt cheap. I think I will just make me a spunding valve, and slowly standardize on kegs for fermentation. Now that I'm about 8 batches into the hobby, not seeing the Krausen drop probably not a big deal.

Any reason I should not start perusing kegconnection/Craigslist, and order 2 more kegs for fermentation? Anyone harvesting yeast by simply collecting trub in the "first runnings" during transfer? Also, I hate going into glass carboys for SG samples. Seems if I do a bent/cut diptube, I would start with blowoff tube on the gas line threads as stated earlier in this thread, then about 4 days in (7 days for lager)screw on the post/QD/spunding valve assembly. Wondering then if you can just set valve at a low pressure, and sample off the liquid line with a short line picnic tap for SG readings....another advantage.

I guess I'm trying to figure out why anyone who already has kegging equipment doesn't just ferment in the kegs, seems like many advantages. I see my keg herd growing in the future....god I love cornies, they are awesome. God bless the diabetes-spreading soda Barron's!

 

[TexasWine]

Anyone harvesting yeast by simply collecting trub in the "first runnings" during transfer? Also, I hate going into glass carboys for SG samples. Seems if I do a bent/cut diptube, I would start with blowoff tube on the gas line threads as stated earlier in this thread, then about 4 days in (7 days for lager)screw on the post/QD/spunding valve assembly. Wondering then if you can just set valve at a low pressure, and sample off the liquid line with a short line picnic tap for SG readings....another advantage.

I guess I'm trying to figure out why anyone who already has kegging equipment doesn't just ferment in the kegs, seems like many advantages. I see my keg herd growing in the future....god I love cornies, they are awesome. God bless the diabetes-spreading soda Barron's!

You could do as you describe and collect the gunk from the bottom of the fermenter I overbuild my starters rather than collecting from fermenter. You get cleaner yeast that way.

If you're going to do a spunding valve, just attach it from the get go. No need to do a switch a roo from a blow off. The increased pressure will keep the krausen low as well. You should be able to ferment 4 gallons in a 5 gallon keg doing this.

As far as a reason to not use corny kegs, they take up a lot of real estate per unit volume and they can be more difficult to clean. For my 6 gallon batches I need two. I can fit that same volume in one Brew Bucket. However, I prefer kegs for a myriad of reasons, some you mentioned.

 

[Goforthegusto]

Someone just refreshed the glass carboy nightmare thread, I tweaked my back a few months back, and just don't like fermenting in plastic. I know the extractibles/leachables profiles from my work, and i seriously think all beverages taste better in glass than plastic...water, beer, Coca Cola, etc. next best to glass is stainless. Cant see why a non pro would spend on conical vs just using a corny. I'm already standard on pinlock kegs and they are dirt cheap. I think I will just make me a spunding valve, and slowly standardize on kegs for fermentation. Now that I'm about 8 batches into the hobby, not seeing the Krausen drop probably not a big deal.

Any reason I should not start perusing kegconnection/Craigslist, and order 2 more kegs for fermentation? Anyone harvesting yeast by simply collecting trub in the "first runnings" during transfer? Also, I hate going into glass carboys for SG samples. Seems if I do a bent/cut diptube, I would start with blowoff tube on the gas line threads as stated earlier in this thread, then about 4 days in (7 days for lager)screw on the post/QD/spunding valve assembly. Wondering then if you can just set valve at a low pressure, and sample off the liquid line with a short line picnic tap for SG readings....another advantage.

I guess I'm trying to figure out why anyone who already has kegging equipment doesn't just ferment in the kegs, seems like many advantages. I see my keg herd growing in the future....god I love cornies, they are awesome. God bless the diabetes-spreading soda Barron's!

Well, I've fermented 6 or 7 batches in my 6.5 gallon corny kegs from williams brewing. I like not using glass, and I like the lack of light, even though I am using a converted perlick kegerator as a fermentation chamber, so there is little light exposure anyway. If you are talking about 5 gallon batches, you will have no headspace with a standard 5 gallon keg, so that needs to be your first consideration. And consider trub volume loss as well. I tend to start my batch out closer to 5.5 gallons, so my final batch size is 5g. As far as collecting yeast from first running - my method of transfer is to connect the OUT connector of fermenter keg to the out of the secondary/final keg, and use CO2 to force beer transfer. I have found that really very little of the trub comes out, just a few seconds, then it clears out. When the transfer is complete and I open up the primary fermenter to clean it, its easy to see at the end of the dip tube that it just sucks up a bit around the end of the dip tube and leaves a little dimple there in the trub. As far as getting gravity samples, I do as above with transfer, only I have a black connector on the OUT connection of the primary connected to a bit of beverage tube, add a bit of CO2 pressure after I've sealed off the blow off, and fill up the test tube for the hydrometer.

If you go to instagram and search @valsignadbrewing you can see a few photos and a video of the fermentation setup. Someday I will take better photos.

I recently built a spunding valve, but haven't really used it yet, so I cant speak to the success of that method.

If you look at my photos, you may be able to see that I modified some keg lids and placed male camlock fittings, and then have female camlock with a section of silicone tubing for blowoff. I also have a hose clamp on that so that I can seal off the blowoff tube for sampling or transfer (DON'T FORGET TO UNCLAMP IT!!! I found out the hard way once, big mess...) I just didn't want to use the gas connector for blowoff.

I don't think cleaning corny kegs is a big deal. Just DON'T let it dry out. Rinse it out right away, use a brush to clean out the gunk, and get good at taking the whole thing apart to clean all the small parts (I can have a keg disassembled in about 45 seconds). Yes, a widemouth fermentor would be easier to clean, but not by that much.

Sorry, a lot of info, and it may not all make a ton of sense. Let me know if I can clarify my process.

Mark

 

[Tommydee]

Appreciate your perspectives. If I send, say 4.3 gallons, and yeast takes off fast, seems like the QD could easily clog, more so than a standard airlock....which is why I figured starting with a blowoff made sense...but I agree with you for lagers, probably not necessary.


I'm already scaling down to 4.5 gal with beersmith, since I ferment in 5 gallon carboys. This fits my kitchen setup better, and I'm the only beer drinker in the house....also I like variety and practice since I'm new to the hobby. I will start working on a spunding valve, and try my next lager this way. Need it for kombucha anyways.

TexasWine, do you just keep the diptubes standard or bend? For simplicity I'm thinking keeping dip tubes unmodified, cold crash, and make a simple transfer line with a tee with 2 pinch clamps to divert the truby start, then sending clear beer to the serving keg. This way all my kegs are interchangeable. I make very clear beer now with cold crash and gelatin, but want to take gelatin out for some vegetarian friends. Maybe I'll need to bend some tubes to keep things really clear, but hope my tee plan works.

 

[brewslinger]

Are there any other sources of these 6.5 gallon cornies?
I found one listing on Ebay and also find a couple of suppliers on AliExpress.

Has anyone ordered any of these straight from China say on AliExpress?

 

[sikkingj]

I'm interested with wha you find...

 

[Ethanfox]

Have a link on AliEx? I only saw the 5 gal version.

 

[brewslinger]

Search for 24.5 L keg and you will find them on AliExpress.

Here's one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/24-...er-OB-Keg-With-Metal-Handles/32721540525.html