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55 Gallon RO water tank build

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I want a new welder, but i have to keep telling myself to save for a home.lol
 
Ha its not that bad, last me a year when welding stainless. Not so well on mild steel a 20cfm. I alo dont want to buy a larger tank until I get a new welder and back gas set up. This makes me so frusturated though, I was ready to finish and paint last night. not I get to wait till next week.

That is pretty thin and low amp stuff. Should only need 10-12cfm for it. Gas lense or regular cup? What size torch?
 
I could see that, I have always used my tig for stainless. I was having porosity issues because I was running out of gas


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Finally got some gas ImageUploadedByHome Brew1409895600.375330.jpgImageUploadedByHome Brew1409895616.003535.jpg


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Pretty slick bro! Are you going to rig up the R/O w/ a float valve so you don't need to baby sit it? (couldn't remember if you said that or not)

Thank you. That is exactly what I am going to do, I'm just trying to figure out what to do with the hose off the RO that goes to a pressure tank. Can I just plug it?



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Pretty slick bro! Are you going to rig up the R/O w/ a float valve so you don't need to baby sit it? (couldn't remember if you said that or not)

Thank you. That is exactly what I am going to do, I'm just trying to figure out what to do with the hose off the RO that goes to a pressure tank. Can I just plug it?




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Thank you. That is exactly what I am going to do, I'm just trying to figure out what to do with the hose off the RO that goes to a pressure tank. Can I just plug it?




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Is there a T that splits that output? I'd just get rid of it and only run 1 line to the float valve. If you know you'll never need the pressure tank that is.
 
Thank you. That is exactly what I am going to do, I'm just trying to figure out what to do with the hose off the RO that goes to a pressure tank. Can I just plug it?

Yes and your system throughput will be greater than when used with the pressure tank. Don't know what the 'float' does but it needs to send a signal to a valve to shut off the feed. Just shutting off the permeate line will not prevent feed from entering the unit and going out the concentrate line. Simple electrical float switch with a solenoid valve in the feed will do.

Should you want pressurized water just connect one of those diaphragm pumps designed for boats and cabins to the output of your atmospheric tank and plumb its output to the pressure tank through a tee. The other side of the tee goes to whatever faucet or valve is to supply your water. When you open the valve the pump senses the low pressure and runs until you turn the valve off and the tank is pressurized.
 
The do system is throwing me. It has a line that goes to a faucet, a feed line, waste line and a pressure tank line. All I want to do is to fill the feed with a hose, faucet line to the tank and waste can go in the drain. But is the pressure tank needed or can it be plugged?


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Ok this will help. Where the pressure tank t is turn to a 90 fitting and get rid of the tankImageUploadedByHome Brew1409939148.423790.jpg


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yep. where the t is for the pressure tank, ditch it and plumb straight into the carbon filter. Then take the "faucet" line, and plumb into your tank. You will have to verify that that check valve shuts the system down when your tank is full. Otherwise, as Aj said, you will be processing and dumping the whole time, due to the nature of an RO system
 
A few more points:

1. AJ - it looks like he has an auto shutoff valve which will cut off inflow when pressure builds in the permeate line. This is normal for these residential kits. Keep an eye (and ear) on the ASOV. It will go bad one day, and you'll dump a boat load of carbon filtered water. On the bright side, you'll have a VERY clean flushed membrane!

2. Is there a reason you need the post-carbon filter? I've noticed that when using one, the first gallon or 2 can really spike in TDS when the system has sat for a few days. If you use this for other purposes and are constantly taking a little here and there, the TDS in the tank will really start to creep over time. I'd fill it all the way, then shut off the RO 'till you think it's low enough to need more. At that time, discard the first few gallons, and fill all the way. You can certainly keep the post-filter if you like the taste/odor benefits for drinking, but it's probably not necessary. I dunno what crud mine holds, but it really flushes itself with every use. Way more creep than just the RO membrane alone.
 
A few more points:

1. AJ - it looks like he has an auto shutoff valve which will cut off inflow when pressure builds in the permeate line. This is normal for these residential kits. Keep an eye (and ear) on the ASOV. It will go bad one day, and you'll dump a boat load of carbon filtered water. On the bright side, you'll have a VERY clean flushed membrane!

2. Is there a reason you need the post-carbon filter? I've noticed that when using one, the first gallon or 2 can really spike in TDS when the system has sat for a few days. If you use this for other purposes and are constantly taking a little here and there, the TDS in the tank will really start to creep over time. I'd fill it all the way, then shut off the RO 'till you think it's low enough to need more. At that time, discard the first few gallons, and fill all the way. You can certainly keep the post-filter if you like the taste/odor benefits for drinking, but it's probably not necessary. I dunno what crud mine holds, but it really flushes itself with every use. Way more creep than just the RO membrane alone.

Thank you for your input, I plan on filling it before each batch, then flush it before the next fill up. The tank will serve as RO water for the brew process and use the rest for chilling.





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Thank you for your input, I plan on filling it before each batch, then flush it before the next fill up. The tank will serve as RO water for the brew process and use the rest for chilling.


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A few more points:

1. AJ - it looks like he has an auto shutoff valve which will cut off inflow when pressure builds in the permeate line. This is normal for these residential kits.
Roger that and that's why I mentioned the need for a solenoid valve if he wants to shut off based on a full atmospheric tank.


2. Is there a reason you need the post-carbon filter? I've noticed that when using one, the first gallon or 2 can really spike in TDS when the system has sat for a few days.

I don't have a polish filter in my system and I notice the same phenomenon. When the system is off there is water on either side of the membrane and the chemical potential of ions across the membrane is high. But now there is plenty of time for ions to make there way along those lines of chemical potential. That's my guess as to what is responsible but I could be all wet.
 
Ok do I need to use the valve? I was just going to use the float switch? ImageUploadedByHome Brew1409952405.043894.jpg

Also here is what my RO looks likeImageUploadedByHome Brew1409952452.059717.jpg


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You can leave the valve that came with the system in place. It will never see back pressure and will never shut off.

I can't quite make out how the float valve works from the photo. I can see the float clearly enough and that something comes through the wall of the vessel. If that something actuates a valve between the two IPT threaded ports and you plumb the system feed through that valve you will be fine.
 
Sorry this build was delayed a few weeks, I have been working in Germany for a bit, but I am back and plan on finishing this this weekend and get some beer flowing.

In not going to use the solenoid valve anymore, it is easier for me just to add a manual valve. I plan on just adding the float valve at the top of the tank and letting the back pressure turn off the system.
 
Well that's impressive I just use grey Brute trash cans.


I almost did, but I got the tank new for $20 more then a trash can. Found out I live near a major tank distributor. Lol besides I want to be able to wash me car with it too



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Well that's impressive I just use grey Brute trash cans.


I almost did, but I got the tank new for $20 more then a trash can. Found out I live near a major tank distributor. Lol besides I want to be able to wash me car with it too



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Looks awesome! So is the float valve alone enough to trigger the auto shutoff valve, or does it pulse and let the waste stream flow? I've had mixed results.
 
Looks awesome! So is the float valve alone enough to trigger the auto shutoff valve, or does it pulse and let the waste stream flow? I've had mixed results.


Idk we will find out. Lol I'm wondering if I should seal the top so that the RO water won't get contaminated?


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Idk we will find out. Lol I'm wondering if I should seal the top so that the RO water won't get contaminated?


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It looks like there's a lid, is that threaded? Should be more than adequate for water.

Also, if you were to seal the tank, you'd be building pressure up to your main water pressure. Not only would the auto-shutoff most likely cut off the flow before the tank is full, I'd be worried about rupturing the tank! Definitely have a vent on that bad boy. The RO membrane will be more effecient as well with lower back pressure.
 
I was just thinking after it was full then purge it with CO2 for storage? Now that I think about it, it's not even necessary. After seeing what the water has done to my piping, I'm glad I got a 65 gallon tank, that water is needed for cleaning too


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