$50 Dedicated HERMS

[BadWolfBrewing]

The required flow rate really depends on the mlt. A cooler doesn't require much flow. A big metal pot outside on a windy cold day will require much more flow through a longer coil to maintain temps without having to have a boiling tank of water.

I agree completely, turnover volume is absolutely critical

 

[poptarts]

Fair enough, but if you are planning on using this system in that situation your probably going to have a bad time.

 

[augiedoggy]

So all the RIMS people seemed to indicate that RIMS still takes like 1 - 1.5 minutes to raise a 5 gallon mash setup by 1 degree which or you risk scorching....this means that steps are still pretty undo-able... I just haven't found anyone that says "yep you can raise your mash temp by 1 degree in 30 seconds and your wort will be fine."

I know this is old but I. Have to comment.... my small 1000w (actually only about 750w) cartridge heater rims tube raises the mash temp faster than that. there is a time delay in the beginning as the wort drains through the grain bed but it raises pretty quick once it gets going. More than a degree a minute on smaller 5 gallon batches... possibly 2 degrees a minute... much faster than my 25 ft 3/8 herms coil... of course I didn't have good water recirculation in my hlt so the temps weren't all that even.

 

[TipsySaint]

I know this is old but I. Have to comment.... my small 1000w (actually only about 750w) cartridge heater rims tube raises the mash temp faster than that. there is a time delay in the beginning as the wort drains through the grain bed but it raises pretty quick once it gets going. More than a degree a minute on smaller 5 gallon batches... possibly 2 degrees a minute... much faster than my 25 ft 3/8 herms coil... of course I didn't have good water recirculation in my hlt so the temps weren't all that even.

do you get scorching? Can you effectively do mash steps?

 

[augiedoggy]

do you get scorching? Can you effectively do mash steps?

Yes I step mashed with it and no scorching... even made a magic hat #9 clone as well as a light pale ale...

 

[TipsySaint]

Yes I step mashed with it and no scorching... even made a magic hat #9 clone as well as a light pale ale...

so that runs on 110?

 

[augiedoggy]

so that runs on 110?

no, 220v

 

[cantrell00]

so that runs on 110?

You could run a RIMS on 110 volts.

Most run a 5500 watt / 240 ULWD element @ 110 for a total of 1375 watts.

Not sure how efficient it would ramp though.

 

[augiedoggy]

You could run a RIMS on 110 volts.

Most run a 5500 watt / 240 ULWD element @ 110 for a total of 1375 watts.

Not sure how efficient it would ramp though.

correct.... I run a 1/2" 10" long straight stainless element though a cheap 3/4 copper soldered rims tube and use a small 12v pump which only flows about 3 gallons a minute so its all matched very well.... I brought a 5 gallon amber ale mash from a very low 121 degrees (goofed up on strike water) to 152 in under 20 minutes but I dont remember the exact amount of time it took. it was my first experience with the new hardware changes I made...

 

[TipsySaint]

very interesting...so I would need to run 220 to make it work....

 

[augiedoggy]

very interesting...so I would need to run 220 to make it work....

A quick look at ebay shows there are just as many 110v options as well including 800w and 1000w elements...

 

[TipsySaint]

A quick look at ebay shows there are just as many 110v options as well including 800w and 1000w elements...

I'm aware that 110 is possible, i'm just trying to figure out if I can achieve step mashing with 110

 

[cantrell00]

I'm aware that 110 is possible, i'm just trying to figure out if I can achieve step mashing with 110

I had a 800 watt heatplate & couldn't do it in a reasonable amount of time..

 

[Falcon3]

If we're getting too far off topic, we could start a "Slightly More than $50 Dedicated HERMS for step mashing" thread.

Here's my layout so far:

MyPin PID: $9 (ebay)
PT100 probe: $10 (ebay)
SSR & Heat Sink: $10 (ebay)
1500w Water Heater element 110v- $8 (amazon)
Extra stuff to install Water Heater element: $8 (nut, gasket, waterproof box)
Electrical box and wiring: FREE (or super cheap- check Goodwills/thrifts for old dryer plugs - I got a bunch of 4awg wire for about $2) I had the electrical box laying around from some remodeling

So you can put together a poor man's PID controlled HERMS that SHOULD be good for step mashing for only a little more than the STC system, plus it will actually be geared for doing what we're doing with it (if you were making it from scratch- $20 STC, $16 hot plate)

I guess it all depends on how much extra junk you've got laying around to set it up-ALSO I ruined my StC on my "$50" setup- the hot water got to the temp probe and the only temp it would show was 99 degrees- I checked it out and the insulation around the probe wire where it attaches to the end of the probe got cracked, letting water get in.

 

[poptarts]

hmm thats not good to hear about the probe, mine is running strong still but that makes me want to pick up a SS probe for it now.

 

[augiedoggy]

I'm aware that 110 is possible, i'm just trying to figure out if I can achieve step mashing with 110

I'm not sure I understand.
If its the same size and same wattage as the 220v element than it doesn't matter whether is 220v or 110. surface area of the element and total wattage is all that matters.
I just purchased a longer 15" 1000w element for my tube... Just because I'm curious really to see if theres a difference in performance and may be building another for a fellow homebrewer.

 

[cantrell00]

I'm not sure I understand.
If its the same size and same wattage as the 220v element than it doesn't matter whether is 220v or 110. surface area of the element and total wattage is all that matters.
I just purchased a longer 15" 1000w element for my tube... Just because I'm curious really to see if theres a difference in performance and may be building another for a fellow homebrewer.

I read it to mean that the OP is implying that the 110v element would be at a lesser wattage.

 

[poptarts]

a 220v element rated at say 2000w will only run at 500w on 110v. so if your running at 220v element on 110v you are going to need to look for somthing in 5000w - 6000w range for it to do what you are wanting.

 

[augiedoggy]

well i was comparing say this element
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FIREROD-J10...309?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cd2b575dd to say this..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-WATLOW-...198?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43d2690aa6

Even though one is 120v and the othe is 240v they are roughly the same density and wattage and will perform the same regardless...

 

[poptarts]

running on 120, that 240v is going to be a equivlient to a 250w element, also known as pointless. So defiantly the first 120 one over the other one.

 

[augiedoggy]

running on 120, that 240v is going to be a equivlient to a 250w element, also known as pointless. So defiantly the first 120 one over the other one.

Your not understanding at all, I was never talking about running any of these elements at any other voltage than what they are designed for,
the first link is a 120v rated element rated at 1000w output....

The second link is a 240v rated element also rated at 1000w output...

They are the same size and length... the are just wired differently internally to produce the same heat with different voltages. So someone limited to 120v would want to select the first choice and someone running 240v would choose the second.... in the earlier comments it was implied that an effective rims tube couldnt be made with 120v vs 220 and I was simply stating that it doesnt matter if you have 120v or 220... just select the appropriate element prior to building... the only reson people run the larger 220v elements at 120v is because they provide too much heat for a rims application and they provide very low watt density this way and the 120v standard hot water heater elements are generally too short with little surface area in contact for too short a time...... with small long cartridge heaters this is not an issue.
I run my 1000w element at the full 240v and can assure you there is NO scorching at all... The longer the element the lower the watt density, you can find these 1000w elements in lengths up to a few ft long.... this makes them actually a better choice than what most people are using...
just like comparing a longer herms coil to a short one.

 

[bja]

Your not understanding at all, the first link is a 120v rated element rated at 1000w output....
The second link is a 240v rated element also rated at 1000w output... They are the same size and length... the are just wired differently internally to produce the same heat with different voltages.

I'm sure he knows that. I think the problem is, he's assuming that you're going to run the 240v heater on 120v, which is what I also assumed initially. You didn't make that very clear.

 

[augiedoggy]

I'm sure he knows that. I think the problem is, he's assuming that you're going to run the 240v heater on 120v, which is what I also assumed initially. You didn't make that very clear.

I was editing when you typed that...
I stated I built a small cheap rims tube that works well ...he later asked if it runs on 120v or 220v I stated 220 but you could find 120v elements with the same output and watt density...

I believe I was being pretty clear on page 19 but I understand the what the misunderstanding is now...

 

[TipsySaint]

I got it!

 

[titansvol]

I ordered the parts yesterday. Can't wait to try this.

 

[steveoatley]

PopTarts

I really appreciate this thread.
I built one similar to yours

I had a pump
I had a 3 gallon pot - from my old extract days
I had a Johnson Comptroller, left over from a keezer build
I repurposed my Copper Wort chiller - 25 ft of 1/2 inch

All I had to buy was the new QD for the wort chiller & a Hot Plate !

It has taken me a couple of brews to figure out how to keep the right temp in my Mash tun, but it works real good

Thanks ! (This is actually a picture of me moving water into the MT , not recirculating )

 

[poptarts]

PopTarts

I really appreciate this thread.
I built one similar to yours

I had a pump
I had a 3 gallon pot - from my old extract days
I had a Johnson Comptroller, left over from a keezer build
I repurposed my Copper Wort chiller - 25 ft of 1/2 inch

All I had to buy was the new QD for the wort chiller & a Hot Plate !

It has taken me a couple of brews to figure out how to keep the right temp im my Mash tun, but it works real good

Thanks !

Nice glad to hear.

 

[titansvol]

I used my system for the first time brewing today. Worked very well. Thanks poptarts for the idea.

 

[Genuine]

I've been using this system to keep my mash temps the same over the hour long mash. Plus the benefit of having clearer wort helps as well. Suits my needs to have a better mash and a higher quality wort.

 

[grrickar]

So would an STC1000 be able to switch a 1300W hot plate? Not that it is needed for this, but thinking I could heat my water for the mash on it as well prior to calling it into service for HERMS.

Also, just a thought - I go SS for all my kettles that contact wort but in this case since it isn't in contact, so would an aluminum kettle transfer the heat to the water (and the coil) quicker?

This is the hot plate I was looking at http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I14C7I/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20