5 or 10 gallon mash tun?

[s2cmpugh]

I just discovered a problem. Using these parts https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/cheap-easy-10-gallon-rubbermaid-mlt-conversion-23008/ the 3/8” MIP x 1-1/2” brass nipple is male on both sides, which is fine for the valve, but the bazooka tube is also male. How do I remedy this situation?

Thanks!

 

[Brulosopher]

Perhaps it was already said, but Home Depot sells both 5G and 10G coolers, the difference in price being pretty negligible. I appreciate Revvy's comments immensely, and he's right... but if you're currently building your brew system, you will likely be more "set" going with the 10G first.

Or... consider get a 40+ quart rectangular cooler. That's what I went with a while ago, mainly because I had a clean one sitting around... and I still use it! You can get a good Igloo at Target for $20, or you can find any brand pretty cheap on Amazon. HERE IS A LINK to my cooler-mash tun build. I've since made a couple changes to the process (since I've built a few for friends)... let me know if you plan to go this route and I'll tell you what I now do differently.

Cheers!

 

[s2cmpugh]

Perhaps it was already said, but Home Depot sells both 5G and 10G coolers, the difference in price being pretty negligible. I appreciate Revvy's comments immensely, and he's right... but if you're currently building your brew system, you will likely be more "set" going with the 10G first.

Or... consider get a 40+ quart rectangular cooler. That's what I went with a while ago, mainly because I had a clean one sitting around... and I still use it! You can get a good Igloo at Target for $20, or you can find any brand pretty cheap on Amazon. HERE IS A LINK to my cooler-mash tun build. I've since made a couple changes to the process (since I've built a few for friends)... let me know if you plan to go this route and I'll tell you what I now do differently.

Cheers!

Yeah I think I'm going to go the 10G route.

However, my problem now is figuring out how I'm going to connect the male end of my bazooka screen to the other fittings and valve. Ideas?

 

[Brulosopher]

I just discovered a problem. Using these parts https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/cheap-easy-10-gallon-rubbermaid-mlt-conversion-23008/ the 3/8” MIP x 1-1/2” brass nipple is male on both sides, which is fine for the valve, but the bazooka tube is also male. How do I remedy this situation?

Thanks!

This ought to work: http://brewhardware.com/index.php?o...oupling&catid=48:stainless-fittings&Itemid=75

Cheers!

 

[Rev2010]

brass nipple is male on both sides, which is fine for the valve, but the bazooka tube is also male. How do I remedy this situation?

This is what I have:

Bronze Cooler Valve Kit w/ barb : Northern Brewer

The metal barrel at the back end that goes inside the cooler is female 1/2". Maybe just find out what that part is.


Rev.

 

[s2cmpugh]

Thanks for the help guys! I found this on Home Depot's website, what do you think? 1/2 in. Brass FPT x FPT Coupling-LF A810 at The Home Depot

And Lowes has one too... http://www.lowes.com/pd_35074-104-A...ittings_4294822030__s?Ntt=coupling&facetInfo=

 

[Brulosopher]

Thanks for the help guys! I found this on Home Depot's website, what do you think? 1/2 in. Brass FPT x FPT Coupling-LF A810 at The Home Depot

And Lowes has one too... http://www.lowes.com/pd_35074-104-A-810_4294822030__?productId=3134279&Ntt=coupling&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl_Brass%2BFittings_4294822030__s%3FNtt%3Dcoupling&facetInfo=

Don't see why that wouldn't work.

 

[s2cmpugh]

This is what I have:

Bronze Cooler Valve Kit w/ barb : Northern Brewer

The metal barrel at the back end that goes inside the cooler is female 1/2". Maybe just find out what that part is.


Rev.

So I just decided to purchase the bronze cooler valve kit instead. After picking up all the parts, no luck on finding the appropiate size s/s washers, and adding everything up, I decided to just purchase a "pre-made" kit. I did however pick up my 10 gallon mash tun!

 

[insubordinateK]

So I just decided to purchase the bronze cooler valve kit instead. After picking up all the parts, no luck on finding the appropiate size s/s washers, and adding everything up, I decided to just purchase a "pre-made" kit. I did however pick up my 10 gallon mash tun!

Surprisingly, finding the right size SS washers can be tricky. I finally find them at my LHBS.

 

[s2cmpugh]

I'm currently boycotting my LHBS due to his piss poor customer service and overall rude interactions.

 

[stratslinger]

After picking up all the parts, no luck on finding the appropiate size s/s washers, and adding everything up, I decided to just purchase a "pre-made" kit.

This was exactly what I went through... Annoying as all get-out. Folks kept pointing me to online resources for those SS washers, but once you paid for them and for shipping, the DIY valve cost more than the "pre-made" one from my LHBS.

 

[Brulosopher]

Surprisingly, finding the right size SS washers can be tricky. I finally find them at my LHBS.

Interestingly, Amazon sells huge lots of SS washers, in pretty much whatever size you want (mine have 1/2" holes for rectangular coolers), for a really great price! I think I paid about $10 for 30+ washers. Not bad.

 

[s2cmpugh]

This was exactly what I went through... Annoying as all get-out. Folks kept pointing me to online resources for those SS washers, but once you paid for them and for shipping, the DIY valve cost more than the "pre-made" one from my LHBS.

Bingo! I added up the cost of all the parts and even some washers from Fastenal (which had to be ordered along with shipping cost) only to find that the "pre-made" valve assembly from northern brewer was less, INCLUDING shipping! No brainer on that decision, and I'm certainly capable of waiting a few days on delivery.

Since I'm using 1/2" parts, I need washers that are about 7/8" and after running around town I discovered those are hard to find....very hard in fact.

 

[s2cmpugh]

This is what I have:

Bronze Cooler Valve Kit w/ barb : Northern Brewer

The metal barrel at the back end that goes inside the cooler is female 1/2". Maybe just find out what that part is.


Rev.

Any tips on installing this in my 10 gallon round cooler? How tight does it need to be tightened down?

 

[Bobby_M]

So I just decided to purchase the bronze cooler valve kit instead. After picking up all the parts, no luck on finding the appropiate size s/s washers, and adding everything up, I decided to just purchase a "pre-made" kit. I did however pick up my 10 gallon mash tun!

Too bad I didn't catch you in time. I have that setup in all stainless and better gaskets for only $2 more.

 

[Rev2010]

Any tips on installing this in my 10 gallon round cooler? How tight does it need to be tightened down?

Which part are your referring to, the barrel or the mesh bazooka screen? If it's the metal inner tube it doesn't have to be too tight. I just used pliers and tightened the best I could. For the bazooka screen simply hand tighten it, don't go nuts because you can break it from the clamp that holds it onto the screw-in part.


Rev.

 

[Brewmiser]

just went thru this same thing. I bought a 5 gallon but returned it & decided to go for a 10 gallon so I could brew some bigger beers. I figured it was better to spend a little more now then to have to buy a second larger one later. Now it's just a matter of Brass or SS???

 

[s2cmpugh]

Which part are your referring to, the barrel or the mesh bazooka screen? If it's the metal inner tube it doesn't have to be too tight. I just used pliers and tightened the best I could. For the bazooka screen simply hand tighten it, don't go nuts because you can break it from the clamp that holds it onto the screw-in part.


Rev.

Really just referring to the valve and bulkhead assembly. I kinda figured the bazooka screen would just need to be hand tight.

 

[s2cmpugh]

Which part are your referring to, the barrel or the mesh bazooka screen? If it's the metal inner tube it doesn't have to be too tight. I just used pliers and tightened the best I could. For the bazooka screen simply hand tighten it, don't go nuts because you can break it from the clamp that holds it onto the screw-in part.


Rev.

I put everything together tonight, but I have a slight leak. It drips about 1 drop every 20 seconds or so around the bulkhead. Is there a way to fix this? I've tightened things down as far as I feel comfortable, but should I go tighter?

And this is filling the cooler with 7 gallons of cold water.

 

[Rev2010]

Hmm, mine doesn't leak at all. I would make sure you have the O ring placed correctly and make sure the bolt that presses against it is facing the correct way - it has a round cutout on one side and is flat on the other. Also tighten till it's nice and snug but don't Mr.T it.


Rev.

 

[s2cmpugh]

Hmm, mine doesn't leak at all. I would make sure you have the O ring placed correctly and make sure the bolt that presses against it is facing the correct way - it has a round cutout on one side and is flat on the other. Also tighten till it's nice and snug but don't Mr.T it.


Rev.

I put the small O ring on the inside followed by the 2 washers, then on the outside I put the cutout side of the lock nut facing the larger O ring with the flat side of the lock nut facing the valve. Does this sound correct? Any ideas on how to fix my slow leak?

 

[Rev2010]

Sounds correct. Sorry I don't have any other suggestions. Call NB or whoever you bought it from, they should be able to assist.

Rev.

 

[s2cmpugh]

Update...I swapped the position of the washers ; large inside and small outside. Seven gallons of cold water and so far no leaks! Its been 5min. Think this is ok to do?

 

[Rev2010]

Washers or the O-rings? If it's working I guess you're clear. But one thing I forgot to ask... you did use teflon tape as recommended yes? If not watch the nothernbrewer mash tun video

DELUXE ALL GRAIN SYSTEM - YouTube


Rev.

 

[s2cmpugh]

Washers or the O-rings? If it's working I guess you're clear. But one thing I forgot to ask... you did use teflon tape as recommended yes? If not watch the nothernbrewer mash tun video

DELUXE ALL GRAIN SYSTEM - YouTube


Rev.

Hey Rev. Thanks for all the help! The washers are still on the inside, I just swapped the position of the O-rings. Everything is wrapped in teflon tape.

It looks as though my spigot hole might be a wee bit larger which might explain why the bigger O-ring helps it seal up on the inside.

If it held 8 gallons of cold water for about 20 mins with no leaks, why worry, right?