4912 CO2 line

[Ol' Grog]

OK, I took the plunge and went ahead and bought the 4912. It listed at Best Buy for 199.99, but when I got home, I notice a sticker on the box that said display model and had a price on it of 152.99. Called them up and they said bring that sticker with the receipt and we'll give you the difference. Good day so far. Got it home, swapped out the door. Had to lay it on it's side as my truck has one of those fiberglass bed covers and just wouldn't fit, so I won't be plugging it in for a day or two.
Question....There is a small drain plug, or so it looks like it, on the inside on top of the motor cover, right in the middle. I took that off, but seemed to be full of foam. Where and how can I run two seperate CO2 lines out of it????? I want to keep the CO2 outside and I have all my controls on the tank, no manifold in the refrigerator. I've read about all the links I could fine, but nothing really covers this. I'm running 3/4 inch OD hose. I could do the drill in the center of the top method, as this has been proven to work over and over, but I'd rather have it in the back somewhere. And the back is like a land mine for coils..

 

[Ol' Grog]

Guess no one wants to tackle this puppy. I've done some more reading and I tell you, I'm not at all comfortable with drilling on the sides either. I did do some experimenting last night. Seems if there is some way I can build a small stand or find something for the rear end of the CO2 tank to sit on, I should be able to make it all fit inside. Only bummer is I just ordered stuff to make it all work outside, but that's only about 25 bucks. Still, I just hate wasting money and especially because of my rashness.
I've seen the plywood cutout on a different website that would work, but it really doesn't secure the tank. I've heard of some folks using a bungee cord to hold it in place. Where to you hook the ends of the cord up to? This ain't the most solid refrigerator I've ever seen and it's pretty light.

 

[Cheesefood]

Someone posted a warning about drilling through the walls. Said something about the compressor lines run in the walls, so gently cut a hole in the sheet metal, then poke around to make sure you're safe.

This is the first advantage I've ever found about living in the north. My garage maintains fairly steady temperatures and since I'm in a middle unit town-house, we never really hit freezing in the garage, even when it's -20 outside.

 

[Brewtopia]

Someone posted a warning about drilling through the walls.

That would be me. I ruined my 4912 by drilling through the side and hitting a coolant line.

 

[Ol' Grog]

Did you go through the side, or through the back panel, right above the compressor???

 

[dougjones31]

I always drill into the back edge of the door of all my chest freezer conversions. There is nothing inside the door to get in the way.

Now on stand up fridge conversions, I would look at the design. Most of the time the cooling coils are between the freezer compartment and the lower compartment and the sides are clear. But the bottom is usually the best place to drill...... Never anything there....except a drain hole!

 

[Sixpack]

I just drilled my holes in the Kenmore 4.9 cuft frig I bought last week. The top was easy as it was no problem to find the coolant line running across the top by feeling for the heat.

I am also placing the CO2 tank outside the frig and drilled the gas line hole in the back of the frig in the very upper left corner as you are looking into the frig. Seemed to be plenty of room there and no problems. I found some info on another person that did it this way so I just did it and it worked.

 

[olllllo]

Read this thread:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=9923&highlight=cornstarch+vodka

look for cornstarch and vodka

 

[Brewtopia]

Did you go through the side, or through the back panel, right above the compressor???

I went through the side. Wish I was a member of this forum before I started that project.

 

[Ol' Grog]

I'm pretty sure we've seen the same pictures on the internet on the CO2 lines running out of the upper left corner. But, that was a Kenmore, not a Sanyo. Yes, they are probably built the same, just different name tag. The only difference I've seen is that the Kenmore has a adjustable rack shelf system that is mounted on both left and right hand side of the back wall, as you are looking at it with the door open. I felt on the outside back wall, wall side that the compressor is on, and didn't feel any heat. So I have a question. The side panels and top were pretty warm, now is that plate that's on the inside of the refrigerator the evaporator? It's pretty cold. I'm wondering if all the heat exchangers are ONLY located on the side walls and top??? The back, as well as the door, are nothing more than foam insulation. How about the floor? Or the steps below the evaporator on the inside. Surely there are no coils in there, right? I mean, the cooling part of the refrigerator is the panel itself located inside that back. The heat exchanger is located within the top and side walls. Would there be any on the floor? Or in the back part next to the compressor? Lot of heat back there when this thing is fired up.
I checked into using the drain hole for CO2 tubing, it's just too small. Plus, when you clear it from the inside, you have to make a very quick 90 degree bend as there isn't a lot of room before you hit the drip tray, located right on top of the compressor.
This is what I'm going to plan on doing. make a custom shelf like the one we've all seen on the Kenmore model. I have a ten pound CO2 tank, it's short and does clear it easily if you rest the tank on the back ledge. The only problem is securing the tank.