• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

4-wire RTD to 3-wire input, or CALL FOR AUGIEDOGGY!

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

whovous

Waterloo Sunset
HBT Supporter
Joined
Dec 20, 2013
Messages
1,483
Reaction score
289
Location
Washington
About eighteen months ago I took Augiedoggy's advice and bought a 1/2" NPT PT100 probe off of eBay. I put it aside and waited for the existing flimsy wired probe to fail. Today was going to be brew day, so of course today would be the day the old wires failed. I get a temp reading of "HH" when I connect the probe to my Auber SWA 2451. That seems to be the way it says there is a problem with the signal from the probe, and that, in turn, doubtless means a wire has broken or otherwise shorted.

The problem is that the replacement probe has four wires, while the existing probe has three wires. Will the replacement work? If so, how do I connect it?

I lack the vocabulary and understanding to know just what is going on here, so I will simply describe what I see:

All of the wires, old and new, terminate with spade connectors. The Auber SWA 2451 has three connections marked RTD that are numbered 3, 4 and 5. The current probe has a red wire with a red cover over the spade attached to #3, a blue wire with a blue cover over the spade attached to #4 and a white wire with a blue cover attached to #5. Does the fact that both the blue wire and the white wire have blue covers imply that the two were interchangeable when this unit still worked? Could I have attached the white wire to #4 and the blue wire to #5?

The four wires to the new probe do not have covers, but they do have labels. A red wire is marked A. Two white wires are marked B. The remaining wire has a clear cover over silver wire and it has a graphic symbol that is not easy to describe. It has a T at the bottom and three increasingly smaller horizontal times above and parallel to the top of the T.

Assuming a 4-wire RTD can be connected to a 3-wire input, it seems a safe bet to assume the new red wire goes to terminal 3 in place of the old red wire. What should I do with the other three wires?

Am I going to be able to brew with this tomorrow, or is it time for me to start looking for a Plan B?
 
The clear wire with the T is likely a ground wire. Either connect it to the ground ( negative power pin) on your pid, or leave it unconnected. It's probably a shield which is not normally included in a RTD probe (but it's a nice addition IMO).

Regarding the 3 RTD wires, the two of the same color are exchangeable. If you have an ohmmeter, they will appear to be shorted together (which they are, at the sensor end). I'd explain why there are two seemingly identical wires, but it's probably too much info here.


upload_2019-7-13_15-10-12.png
 
Yes, that is definitely the symbol! So, do I connect A (red) to terminal 3 and the two Bs (white) to 4 and 5? #5 is marked negative. Could I connect both the ground and one of the Bs there?
 
Sorry, just saw the message.. this week is "canalfest" in my hometown which is right next to my brewpub so its a very busy week for me. I would also not connect the ground, its very likely already grounded to the kettle which in turn is grounded through the ground on your element power cord. In fact if you do connect the ground you might end up with a ground loop like I had which caused some strange readings whenever my heating element kicked on and off.
 
Last edited:
Thanks. I did not connect the ground and it seems to be working just fine. Here's hoping the life-expectancy of these wires is greater than the cheapo old ones.
 
Thanks. I did not connect the ground and it seems to be working just fine. Here's hoping the life-expectancy of these wires is greater than the cheapo old ones.

A closing thought on broken wires. Whenever possible try to use wire-ties to restrain the cabling and minimize movement on your installations.
This can be difficult on things like kettles that are more or less movable items. Aside from that, just try and minimize anything that stresses, flexes, and twists cable connections on sensors and other devices.

Also, don't wait for equipment to fail on brew day. If you think its gonna break soon, it almost certainly will at the worse possible time.
 
Also, don't wait for equipment to fail on brew day. If you think its gonna break soon, it almost certainly will at the worse possible time.
Ahh,but I did not wait for equipment to fail on brew day. I bought two of the cheap version because I knew it was cheap. What I did not know was that I would lose the second one before the first one failed, and that for a time I would even forget I'd purchased a better quality replacement as well. There is always more than one way for things to go wrong...
 
Back
Top