4 tap kegerator - what are best practice for outside CO2 lines?

[Michael Dicken]

I recently converted an old fridge to a 4 tap kegerator. Currently, I have the CO2 tank and the 4 way manifold (Gas Manifold - 1/4 in. (Aluminum)4 Way) inside the fridge. On the occasions when I actually have 4 kegs on, it's very tight in there and difficult to access the Co2 regulator and manifold. So I'd like to relocate everything outside of the fridge. Not sure what best practice is here.

1. Is it better to drill 4 small holes or one big one?
2. How do I seal the hole up? Spray foam insulation? Some kind of putty?
3. is there an optimal length for the CO2 line? Does it matter? Am I overthinking?

 

[IslandLizard]

From what I gathered, if it's a regular old fashioned top freezer fridge with a large condenser coil against the back, you can drill a hole anywhere in the 2 sides below the freezer bottom. There should be no refrigerator system lines in the walls.

Most of us keep the manifold inside, and the tank outside to allow for an extra keg.

If you drill the hole just wide enough to snake a piece of your gas tubing through, that will make a decent seal by itself. You may need to smooth or put something around the sharp metal edge of the skin to prevent it cutting into your hose over time.
Or drill a slightly wider hole and snake a piece of gas tubing through the hole and foam it back in.

You could put some AC insulation tubing around the gas line to reduce potential cold losses along that route.

Some will put in an MFL bulkhead through the side, and related hardware, with or without a keg disconnect, and a valve to easily disconnect the tank, while leaving the the serving system pressurized.

Bulkheads, like these:
https://www.ritebrew.com/product-p/843403.htmhttps://www.ritebrew.com/product-p/843404.htm

 

[Michael Dicken]

From what I gathered, if it's a regular old fashioned top freezer fridge with a large condenser coil against the back, you can drill a hole anywhere in the 2 sides below the freezer bottom. There should be no refrigerator system lines in the walls.

Most of us keep the manifold inside, and the tank outside to allow for an extra keg.

If you drill the hole just wide enough to snake a piece of your gas tubing through, that will make a decent seal by itself. You may need to smooth or put something around the sharp metal edge of the skin to prevent it cutting into your hose over time.
Or drill a slightly wider hole and snake a piece of gas tubing through the hole and foam it back in.

You could put some AC insulation tubing around the gas line to reduce potential cold losses along that route.

Some will put in an MFL bulkhead through the side, and related hardware, with or without a keg disconnect, and a valve to easily disconnect the tank, while leaving the the serving system pressurized.

Bulkheads, like these:
https://www.ritebrew.com/product-p/843403.htmhttps://www.ritebrew.com/product-p/843404.htm

Thanks for the info. Is the reason for keeping the manifold outside to limit the number of holes drilled in the side of the fridge?

 

[IslandLizard]

Thanks for the info. Is the reason for keeping the manifold outside to limit the number of holes drilled in the side of the fridge?

Yup!
There's also little need to access the manifold outside the kegerator.

Regarding tubing, check out EVA Barrier tubing.

Besides for beer lines, it can (and should) be used for gas too, reducing O2 ingress through the tubing.
You'll need the correct MFL to EVA push-fit adapters from Duotight or John Guest. If you have barbs the tubing can be stretched over them with with some heat/boiling water.

 

[ChiknNutz]

From what I gathered, if it's a regular old fashioned top freezer fridge with a large condenser coil against the back, you can drill a hole anywhere in the 2 sides below the freezer bottom. There should be no refrigerator system lines in the walls...

Oh no kidding?! That would be great as I've been a little hesitant to do so. I was under the impression there would be lines on the sides too, simply based on this page.

https://www.kegerators.com/articles/locating-refrigerant-lines/

 

[IslandLizard]

Oh no kidding?! That would be great as I've been a little hesitant to do so. I was under the impression there would be lines on the sides too, simply based on this page.

https://www.kegerators.com/articles/locating-refrigerant-lines/

It depends on the fridge, sure. The one they have pictured, a typical kegerator has lines all over, yes. Compact and undercounter fridges can be similar.

I was referring to a common old-age 5-6' high top freezer model, freezer above the fridge, baffle in the back cools the fridge. One of our club members has 4 of those, 2 serve 12 taps in his taproom on the other side of the wall.

You can always go through the door, it's totally safe there. Just leave enough slack in the tubing inside.

What kind of fridge do you have?

 

[ChiknNutz]

I have one of those as well. It's a Frigidaire built in 2010. I don't yet have a need to pull lines thru as I have but one keg in play and use a picnic tap. I was going to due the corn starch trick to see if there were any lines to worry about as I was planning to mount the secondary inside on one of the walls. Alternatively I was gonna just use the square adhesive backed zip-tie mounts.

 

[Tom R]

Be aware that there just might be 120VAC wiring in the side also.
Ask me how I know!
I was making my new replacement freezer-on-top kegerator. "No need to unplug", I thought, "There's never power in the side". Drill bit hits hot wire...BANG!.. one very surprised and somewhat wiser brewer! And one destroyed bit.

But things are fine now. Six 5G kegs in an 18cf fridge/freezer. Manifold inside, CO2 in a holder on the side. Close-fitting hole for the CO2 tubing. Four faucets now, soon to be more.

 

[IslandLizard]

Dang, what do I know about fridges (anymore)?

 

[Tom R]

Here's a photo of the CO2 mounting bracket, and the cover plate over the scene of the crime. I had to cut a 3"

square hole in the outer skin so I could repair the wiring damage.

 

[Michael Dicken]

Here's a photo of the CO2 mounting bracket, and the cover plate over the scene of the crime. I had to cut a 3"View attachment 685342 square hole in the outer skin so I could repair the wiring damage.

I like this holder. Did you buy that or make it?

 

[Tom R]

Thanks!
I made it from four pieces of 1/2" cabinet plywood. There are two identical horizontal pieces that have holes for the cylinder. The lower one has a third piece glued beneath it without a hole. The vertical piece has tight dadoes for the other parts, which are screwed and glued into place. Works great.