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NewJersey

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I'm 4 brews in using a 1V for eBIAB.
I recirculate.
I've had trouble with temps overshooting during mash. After my 3rd brew was done I did a full volume mash with the spent grain and recirculated while doing the autotune. Held temps perfectly within a tenth of a degree.
During 4th brew (a month later) it was back to the same overshooting bs. I did the autotune during the mash and it held temps again.
I'm getting tired of this. (I've been seriously considering a 15 gal spike solo with a brew commander because of this)
Anyone else have these issues? Fix?
Also wondering if anyone has used an external timer to delay the start of mash heat up? (Like with Christmas lights. Does this exist for 240v?)
I'm in the SS fb user group but I haven't seen a resolution to my problem.
Emailed SS middle of last week... Still waiting on a response.
 

nas81

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I don't recall tuning mine. I use it with a HERMS coil and I set my HLT temp to 156 and the MT temp stays at 154 no problem (using their insulated tun). I only use full power for starting boil then I set it for about 55-60% and it maintains that (I do keep an eye out on this).
 

Southern_Junior

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@Southern_Junior can i ask you what are the dimensions of the wooden stand and what kind of lumber did you use?
I can do you one better. Attached are the drawings I used to build. If you want the editable Visio, let me know. Only changes I would make is the placement of the pump supports, I like the look being tight to the frame, but it makes the riptides a little crammed.

the base of the cart was all made using 4x4’s. Which is overkill, but it made it easy to build(basically Lincoln logs!) and I didn’t have to worry about the weight or do any actual calcs on the weight.

top boards are all poplar that I got for a different project that never came to be. Pretty wood.
 

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msjy2008

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I can do you one better. Attached are the drawings I used to build. If you want the editable Visio, let me know. Only changes I would make is the placement of the pump supports, I like the look being tight to the frame, but it makes the riptides a little crammed.

the base of the cart was all made using 4x4’s. Which is overkill, but it made it easy to build(basically Lincoln logs!) and I didn’t have to worry about the weight or do any actual calcs on the weight.

top boards are all poplar that I got for a different project that never came to be. Pretty wood.
Thanks!
I am looking to build a bench similar to the one you have but it might have to be longer due to that I have 2x ssb 20gal e kettle and 1 ssb 20gallon MT.
 

Southern_Junior

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Thanks!
I am looking to build a bench similar to the one you have but it might have to be longer due to that I have 2x ssb 20gal e kettle and 1 ssb 20gallon MT.
I will say, I have a lot more room than my drawing said I would. So you may not need a longer table. Highly recommend the behr outdoor high gloss. I can wipe it down and it looks good as new after spills.
 

mcmichaelangelo

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Appears it should not require anything more.on my part other than running the tune.
I was having this same problem on my MT PID, and then found a complete manual for the OMROM E5CC and realized it was set to Self tune every time. I turned that off, then did the autotune, and it's worked perfectly since. I felt ecstatic after figuring this out, like I could control the gizmo instead of the other way around!
 

NewJersey

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I was having this same problem on my MT PID, and then found a complete manual for the OMROM E5CC and realized it was set to Self tune every time. I turned that off, then did the autotune, and it's worked perfectly since. I felt ecstatic after figuring this out, like I could control the gizmo instead of the other way around!
If you'd hold my hand here and explain to me in detail how to do this I'd greatly appreciate it.
 

mcmichaelangelo

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If you'd hold my hand here and explain to me in detail how to do this I'd greatly appreciate it.
Not sure this'll help, but now I remember the first thing I discovered about the MLT PID, which was that it was not set to function as a PID. To fix this, go to 1.3.1 in the manual (the page before the 1.3.2 autotune page you posted a screenshot of).

Then, read the "Basic Operation" (Chapter 4) of the attached manual, which is where I found the ST setting, which was set to ON, so I turned it OFF (see p. 4-9).

If you try to do these things, and it won't let you, you might need to decrease the protect level, which you can find instructions in Chapter 2 of the manual you posted the autotune instructions from. I hope this helps.
 

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NewJersey

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Not sure this'll help, but now I remember the first thing I discovered about the MLT PID, which was that it was not set to function as a PID. To fix this, go to 1.3.1 in the manual (the page before the 1.3.2 autotune page you posted a screenshot of).

Then, read the "Basic Operation" (Chapter 4) of the attached manual, which is where I found the ST setting, which was set to ON, so I turned it OFF (see p. 4-9).

If you try to do these things, and it won't let you, you might need to decrease the protect level, which you can find instructions in Chapter 2 of the manual you posted the autotune instructions from. I hope this helps.
I'm not understanding the PDF.
I think I'm just gonna have to use it manually. (Turn it off when it hits temp I want)
Lol, I might as well still be using gas
I tried SS brewtech for help and they started asking about my grainbill and told me it should self tune.
Thing is basically garbage, but I spent the money so I'm stuck with it
 

CatsCradle

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I just got into craft beer and home-brewing and was wondering how one would go about ebrewing with a 2 V RIMS system? I looked at the SSbrewtech website and didn't even see a RIMS system included in the 2 v setup. Is it expected to purchase the RIMs separately or is there some other heat source for the 2 v?
 

msjy2008

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I just got into craft beer and home-brewing and was wondering how one would go about ebrewing with a 2 V RIMS system? I looked at the SSbrewtech website and didn't even see a RIMS system included in the 2 v setup. Is it expected to purchase the RIMs separately or is there some other heat source for the 2 v?
I personally have the 2v system. You will need the 2v controller and two 10 or 20 gallon E-kettles and a 240v 30amp gfci protected outlet which is my dryer outlet. I use hlt/mash to heat up my hot liquor tank strike, sparge water. Then turn the switch over to the boil kettle to begin my 1 hour boil.

If you want to go with the rims setup you will need the SSB 3v E-controller and two 240v 30amp outlets so you can have rims running and boil kettle running at the same time.
 

Southern_Junior

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Either way. You will need a mash tun.

I didn’t want to deal with two circuits, so I will probably go the herms route. But in Texas, the mash doesn’t fluctuate much.
 

CatsCradle

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I personally have the 2v system. You will need the 2v controller and two 10 or 20 gallon E-kettles and a 240v 30amp gfci protected outlet which is my dryer outlet. I use hlt/mash to heat up my hot liquor tank strike, sparge water. Then turn the switch over to the boil kettle to begin my 1 hour boil.

If you want to go with the rims setup you will need the SSB 3v E-controller and two 240v 30amp outlets so you can have rims running and boil kettle running at the same time.
Ok I understand! So the Rims would only be applicable for the 3v system! I assume that the heating source for the 1v and 2v system is their halo element. Whats the benefit then between the 2v over the 1v EBIAB? Seems like the 1v would be less cleanup.
 

Southern_Junior

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Ok I understand! So the Rims would only be applicable for the 3v system! Whats the benefit then between the 2v over the 1v EBIAB? Seems like the 1v would be less cleanup.
It’s all about what style of brewing you want to accomplish. I personally use one vessel for an HLT, Mash/sparse in the tun, and then move on to the boil kettle. It’s all about the style of brewing you want to accomplish.

BIAB is very popular, but wasn’t the way I learned to brew. So it’s a personal preference. RIMS is a add on to a typical 3 vessel setup to maintain consistent mashing temps. You get the added benefit of step mashing and what not.

if you are looking into what type of brewing you want to do, I recommend being honest about that in a local club. See if there are people that will let you hang out during a brew day of the various types to determine what you like and dislike. I have found that home brewers are some of the most helpful bunches around.

But deciding on electric from the get go is a great move. Ditching propane was the best decision I made.
 

CatsCradle

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It’s all about what style of brewing you want to accomplish. I personally use one vessel for an HLT, Mash/sparse in the tun, and then move on to the boil kettle. It’s all about the style of brewing you want to accomplish.

BIAB is very popular, but wasn’t the way I learned to brew. So it’s a personal preference. RIMS is a add on to a typical 3 vessel setup to maintain consistent mashing temps. You get the added benefit of step mashing and what not.

if you are looking into what type of brewing you want to do, I recommend being honest about that in a local club. See if there are people that will let you hang out during a brew day of the various types to determine what you like and dislike. I have found that home brewers are some of the most helpful bunches around.

But deciding on electric from the get go is a great move. Ditching propane was the best decision I made.
Thanks for the response. So if someone were to buy the 2v system they would have to also buy a mash tun separately? There'd be no way to brew with the 2v without a mash tun?'
 

Southern_Junior

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Thanks for the response. So if someone were to buy the 2v system they would have to also buy a mash tun separately? There'd be no way to brew with the 2v without a mash tun?'
Correct. I used a mash tun from my previous setup. If you look at the 2v, you get two vessels with electric elements. The 3v is two vessels with electric elements and a rims tube. Both require a way to mash.
 

rwinzing

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I just ordered the 2V system, I been running 120V on my kettle and Tun so this is going to really speed up the process. Very excited to get it and break it in.
 

Southern_Junior

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I just ordered the 2V system, I been running 120V on my kettle and Tun so this is going to really speed up the process. Very excited to get it and break it in.
Awesome! More people in this thread the better. I’m having trouble dialing in my OG. Idk what the deal is, but I think I need to do a deep dive into my boil off/dead space/etc. in Brewfather this weekend.
 

msjy2008

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I have reached my OG of 1.070 instead of 1.066 mashing at a lower temp 155degrees although I still consider getting SSB 3v with rims recirc through my mash tun so I can get the mashing temp.
 

Hwk-I-St8

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I just got into craft beer and home-brewing and was wondering how one would go about ebrewing with a 2 V RIMS system? I looked at the SSbrewtech website and didn't even see a RIMS system included in the 2 v setup. Is it expected to purchase the RIMs separately or is there some other heat source for the 2 v?
A true 2 vessel system is also called Kettle RIMS or K-RIMS. The idea is that, instead of a RIMS tube, you use your kettle and its heating system as your heating element during the mash.

You mash in a MLT with a false bottom, filter basket or filter bag. You heat your mash water in the kettle, then move it (pump or drain) to the MLT and dough in. During the mash, water is slowly drained to the kettle, where it is heated and pumped back to the MLT. You measure the temperature at the point the wort is exiting the kettle. At the end of the mash, you simply turn off the pump that pumps the wort back to the MLT, let the kettle fill and proceed with your boil.

Typically this is done as a full-volume no sparge mash. You start with the full volume of water just as you would in a standard BIAB.

There are a number of advantages to K-RIMS vs recirculating BIAB. First, you have an option to do a less than full volume mash while still doing a true batch sparge (usually with cold water) where you can add the sparge water, stir, vorlauf and then drain your second runnings to the kettle. You could heat the full volume, drain some for the sparge to a cooler or other insulated vessel, then use to to sparge, but that's really not a 2 vessel system anymore.

The second one is somewhat controversial with respect to its value, but it's something that matters to me. You can get clearer wort into the kettle. If you dough in, let the mash rest for 5-10 minutes, then vorlauf prior to doing your full recirculation, you get the same grain bed filtering you get from a typical HERMS system. The result is clear wort going into your kettle. Many people say you don't need clear wort to get clear beer, and this is absolutely true. However, I believe that, with some types of beer, clear wort results in better beer. This is just from my experience with both. YMMV.

A third advantage is that its conducive to LODO (low oxygen brewing). One key element for the LODO process is underletting your grains. You put the grains in the MLT prior to adding the water, then add the water from the bottom, filling up around the grains. This prevents the splashing you get when you add grains to the water. It isn't a huge factor for me as I haven't experience the wonder of a LODO beer, and I love the beer I'm brewing, so I do not feel compelled to jump through the hoops necessary for LODO. It's my opinion that if you don't do everything required, you might as well ignore it. There's either hot side aeration or there isn't. There's no point in doing it halfway.

Let me know if you have any questions about this brewing method. I use recirculating eBIAB right now, but plan to get a second kettle do K-RIMS for my high gravity stouts.
 

CatsCradle

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This may seem as a rather novice question but what is the difference between the 2v brewing panel vs the 3 v brewing panel. If someone can buy the mash tun separately for the 2 v system what differentiates the two controls?
 

rwinzing

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From what I understand the 3V you need two 240V lines so you can have two elements on at the same time. So you can heat your sparge water while running your RIMS. The 2V has the ability to control two elements but only one at a time. So I have the 2V I can either have it heating my sparge water or on the boil. The 3V also can control three different elements. But again you would need two 240V lines.

What I have done is I have a 120V RIMS Rocket. So I preheat my mash water in one of my 240V kettles and right before I get to my strike temp I move it to my mash tun. The 120V has no issue holding it at my mash temp (I use a brewcommander for my RIMS Rocket). Then I use the SS for my sparge water and boil kettle.
 

Southern_Junior

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Anybody see the brew cubes released? They look nice, but way more than what I would have spent. Funny part, it looks like you’d still need extensions for the controller to the kettles.

 

msjy2008

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Hello:

Noob question.

I just purchased the ssb rims heater. Do you run in on the automatic mode aka set temperature value then turn rims heater element on with pump running?
 

Southern_Junior

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Hello:

Noob question.

I just purchased the ssb rims heater. Do you run in on the automatic mode aka set temperature value then turn rims heater element on with pump running?
Right. The heating element will cycle on and off based on the temp of the wort being circulated through it.
 

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I've been looking at the 2V system to do a HERMS setup. Is there any concern with the elements and plugs on the kettles utilizing the ss proprietary connector?
 

msjy2008

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I've been looking at the 2V system to do a HERMS setup. Is there any concern with the elements and plugs on the kettles utilizing the ss proprietary connector?
What do you mean by proprietary connector?
 

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Not sure if this the right place for this, but for folks concerned about customer service issues with SS- I just had the best experience. Finally got to try my 5gal 3v RIMS system and noted that the secondary accessory outlet on the controller wasn't working (not a huge deal as I had the electricians put in a 120v outlet between the 240s so dropped in a power strip and toggled the switch to get the 2nd pump working - although not really needed as the way I hooked my connections up the 1st pump could handle the load). So entered a ticket on the support page, figuring 1-3 business days for a reply (this is Friday afternoon). 3 hours later I get an email that they are sending out a replacement controller. So for me, so far I'm happy with this company.
 

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