2V SS Brewtech Brewing System Review Page

[Southern_Junior]

Thanks for the great post! I just unboxed my 3V system today, and am waiting for the electrician. Will post photos once I've got it running. One question, which might be off track, but I always wondered about: everyone's pumps seem to be oriented horizontally, but I've always had mine mounted vertically. Is there a reason horizontal is better?

This is just how I designed my cart. I don’t think it really matters.

I will add that the riptide pumps are amazingly quiet.

 

[Mike_kever_kombi]

Vertical orientation is fine as long as pump heads are on top. That is per March Pumps, and how I have always run my chuggers.


The hop spider is the very first thing I bought after my maiden brew.

 

[mcmichaelangelo]

Well, got everything set up, electrical installed (two separate GFCI 30A/240V circuits, plus a 120V circuit for the accessory ports), and plugged in the controller... Trips breakers. It looks like it's the 3V controller. Hmph.

 

[Mike_kever_kombi]

Sounds like the breakers are installed wrong.

 

[mcmichaelangelo]

Waiting on the electrician to come check his work.

 

[mcmichaelangelo]

Yes! Electrician instantly knew what the problem was; neutral not wired to main bus in panel. Two-minute fix, and autotune went perfectly: 18 gallons of 50F water to 174 in a little over 60'. Temp sensor spot on, element fired within 1.5 degrees.

Next question is: is it a bad idea to put a ball valve on the RIMS input so I can change hoses without losing all that liquid in the RIMS? Other solutions (short of building a full-on manifold)?

 

[Mike_kever_kombi]

You will need to throttle RIMS volume, either a valve on pump or a valve on RIMS input.

 

[mcmichaelangelo]

You will need to throttle RIMS volume, either a valve on pump or a valve on RIMS input.

Did my second brew on the system a day or so ago. First brew was a simple pale ale, which went very well. Second was a NEIPA. On both I undlerlet the mash and recirculated fully open. On the first, no issues at all. On the NEIPA with heavier grain bill (including 3# flaked oats/unmilled), after about an hour into the 90-minute mash, it started sticking. It never fully stopped, but I could see all kinds of material going through the sight glass. I truncated the mash, and did the slow sparge after ramping up to 168, and managed to get everything into the BK, and hit the numbers (1.053 pre-boil). I'm wondering if I'd throttled the recirculation through the RIMS if it wouldn't have stuck, but then I worried about scorching the wort if it's going slower through the RIMS. I also realized post-brew that I'd changed hoses and didn't have a full-flow camlock hose out of the MT and into the RIMS... When cleaning the MT, I noticed how slow the flow was through the thing, so I'm scratching my head a little on this one. I guess my main concern is scorching if going slower through the RIMS (Ss Brewtech tech told me flow should not be throttled through the RIMS...). Any thoughts most appreciated.

 

[Mike_kever_kombi]

There was a Facebook group that had instructions on how to auto tune.

The only time I ever full throttled my rims was on the water test run. I started the first brew at full throttle but started channeling so I cut it back. I have been doing it that way ever since. I have not noticed any scorched grain taste. The 2 styles I have brewed the most are a 95% Pilsner grain saison, and a 50/50 2 row/wheat. Both are pretty light on the palette, no dark or roasted grains to hide behind.

Plus every pump and hose combo is going to different results (flow rate), I am not sure how Ss Brewtech could engineer a magic bullet for every eventuality. Your wide open throttle flow rate is most likely different than mine, and different than what Ss Brewtech used during development. Whose flow rate is the “correct” flow rate.

 

[Southern_Junior]

So... maybe I’m just messy. Maybe I’m lazy cuz I’m outside. But how do people brew indoors? I don’t even like the mess I make with my fermenter being in the back of my garage....

 

[NewJersey]

I'm 4 brews in using a 1V for eBIAB.
I recirculate.
I've had trouble with temps overshooting during mash. After my 3rd brew was done I did a full volume mash with the spent grain and recirculated while doing the autotune. Held temps perfectly within a tenth of a degree.
During 4th brew (a month later) it was back to the same overshooting bs. I did the autotune during the mash and it held temps again.
I'm getting tired of this. (I've been seriously considering a 15 gal spike solo with a brew commander because of this)
Anyone else have these issues? Fix?
Also wondering if anyone has used an external timer to delay the start of mash heat up? (Like with Christmas lights. Does this exist for 240v?)
I'm in the SS fb user group but I haven't seen a resolution to my problem.
Emailed SS middle of last week... Still waiting on a response.

 

[NewJersey]

http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eB...=259281&pm=1&ds=0&t=1589851078994&cspheader=1
Something like this, maybe.

 

[NewJersey]

Appears it should not require anything more.on my part other than running the tune.

 

[nas81]

I don't recall tuning mine. I use it with a HERMS coil and I set my HLT temp to 156 and the MT temp stays at 154 no problem (using their insulated tun). I only use full power for starting boil then I set it for about 55-60% and it maintains that (I do keep an eye out on this).

 

[msjy2008]

@Southern_Junior can i ask you what are the dimensions of the wooden stand and what kind of lumber did you use?

 

[Southern_Junior]

@Southern_Junior can i ask you what are the dimensions of the wooden stand and what kind of lumber did you use?

I can do you one better. Attached are the drawings I used to build. If you want the editable Visio, let me know. Only changes I would make is the placement of the pump supports, I like the look being tight to the frame, but it makes the riptides a little crammed.

the base of the cart was all made using 4x4’s. Which is overkill, but it made it easy to build(basically Lincoln logs!) and I didn’t have to worry about the weight or do any actual calcs on the weight.

top boards are all poplar that I got for a different project that never came to be. Pretty wood.

 

[msjy2008]

I can do you one better. Attached are the drawings I used to build. If you want the editable Visio, let me know. Only changes I would make is the placement of the pump supports, I like the look being tight to the frame, but it makes the riptides a little crammed.

the base of the cart was all made using 4x4’s. Which is overkill, but it made it easy to build(basically Lincoln logs!) and I didn’t have to worry about the weight or do any actual calcs on the weight.

top boards are all poplar that I got for a different project that never came to be. Pretty wood.

Thanks!
I am looking to build a bench similar to the one you have but it might have to be longer due to that I have 2x ssb 20gal e kettle and 1 ssb 20gallon MT.

 

[Southern_Junior]

Thanks!
I am looking to build a bench similar to the one you have but it might have to be longer due to that I have 2x ssb 20gal e kettle and 1 ssb 20gallon MT.

I will say, I have a lot more room than my drawing said I would. So you may not need a longer table. Highly recommend the behr outdoor high gloss. I can wipe it down and it looks good as new after spills.

 

[Southern_Junior]

Anybody else noticing a rust ring right around the bottom seem of their kettles?

 

[mcmichaelangelo]

Appears it should not require anything more.on my part other than running the tune.

I was having this same problem on my MT PID, and then found a complete manual for the OMROM E5CC and realized it was set to Self tune every time. I turned that off, then did the autotune, and it's worked perfectly since. I felt ecstatic after figuring this out, like I could control the gizmo instead of the other way around!

 

[NewJersey]

I was having this same problem on my MT PID, and then found a complete manual for the OMROM E5CC and realized it was set to Self tune every time. I turned that off, then did the autotune, and it's worked perfectly since. I felt ecstatic after figuring this out, like I could control the gizmo instead of the other way around!

If you'd hold my hand here and explain to me in detail how to do this I'd greatly appreciate it.

 

[mcmichaelangelo]

If you'd hold my hand here and explain to me in detail how to do this I'd greatly appreciate it.

Not sure this'll help, but now I remember the first thing I discovered about the MLT PID, which was that it was not set to function as a PID. To fix this, go to 1.3.1 in the manual (the page before the 1.3.2 autotune page you posted a screenshot of).

Then, read the "Basic Operation" (Chapter 4) of the attached manual, which is where I found the ST setting, which was set to ON, so I turned it OFF (see p. 4-9).

If you try to do these things, and it won't let you, you might need to decrease the protect level, which you can find instructions in Chapter 2 of the manual you posted the autotune instructions from. I hope this helps.

 

[NewJersey]

Not sure this'll help, but now I remember the first thing I discovered about the MLT PID, which was that it was not set to function as a PID. To fix this, go to 1.3.1 in the manual (the page before the 1.3.2 autotune page you posted a screenshot of).

Then, read the "Basic Operation" (Chapter 4) of the attached manual, which is where I found the ST setting, which was set to ON, so I turned it OFF (see p. 4-9).

If you try to do these things, and it won't let you, you might need to decrease the protect level, which you can find instructions in Chapter 2 of the manual you posted the autotune instructions from. I hope this helps.

I'm not understanding the PDF.
I think I'm just gonna have to use it manually. (Turn it off when it hits temp I want)
Lol, I might as well still be using gas
I tried SS brewtech for help and they started asking about my grainbill and told me it should self tune.
Thing is basically garbage, but I spent the money so I'm stuck with it

 

[CatsCradle]

I just got into craft beer and home-brewing and was wondering how one would go about ebrewing with a 2 V RIMS system? I looked at the SSbrewtech website and didn't even see a RIMS system included in the 2 v setup. Is it expected to purchase the RIMs separately or is there some other heat source for the 2 v?

 

[msjy2008]

I just got into craft beer and home-brewing and was wondering how one would go about ebrewing with a 2 V RIMS system? I looked at the SSbrewtech website and didn't even see a RIMS system included in the 2 v setup. Is it expected to purchase the RIMs separately or is there some other heat source for the 2 v?

I personally have the 2v system. You will need the 2v controller and two 10 or 20 gallon E-kettles and a 240v 30amp gfci protected outlet which is my dryer outlet. I use hlt/mash to heat up my hot liquor tank strike, sparge water. Then turn the switch over to the boil kettle to begin my 1 hour boil.

If you want to go with the rims setup you will need the SSB 3v E-controller and two 240v 30amp outlets so you can have rims running and boil kettle running at the same time.

 

[Southern_Junior]

Either way. You will need a mash tun.

I didn’t want to deal with two circuits, so I will probably go the herms route. But in Texas, the mash doesn’t fluctuate much.

 

[CatsCradle]

I personally have the 2v system. You will need the 2v controller and two 10 or 20 gallon E-kettles and a 240v 30amp gfci protected outlet which is my dryer outlet. I use hlt/mash to heat up my hot liquor tank strike, sparge water. Then turn the switch over to the boil kettle to begin my 1 hour boil.

If you want to go with the rims setup you will need the SSB 3v E-controller and two 240v 30amp outlets so you can have rims running and boil kettle running at the same time.

Ok I understand! So the Rims would only be applicable for the 3v system! I assume that the heating source for the 1v and 2v system is their halo element. Whats the benefit then between the 2v over the 1v EBIAB? Seems like the 1v would be less cleanup.

 

[Southern_Junior]

Ok I understand! So the Rims would only be applicable for the 3v system! Whats the benefit then between the 2v over the 1v EBIAB? Seems like the 1v would be less cleanup.

It’s all about what style of brewing you want to accomplish. I personally use one vessel for an HLT, Mash/sparse in the tun, and then move on to the boil kettle. It’s all about the style of brewing you want to accomplish.

BIAB is very popular, but wasn’t the way I learned to brew. So it’s a personal preference. RIMS is a add on to a typical 3 vessel setup to maintain consistent mashing temps. You get the added benefit of step mashing and what not.

if you are looking into what type of brewing you want to do, I recommend being honest about that in a local club. See if there are people that will let you hang out during a brew day of the various types to determine what you like and dislike. I have found that home brewers are some of the most helpful bunches around.

But deciding on electric from the get go is a great move. Ditching propane was the best decision I made.

 

[CatsCradle]

It’s all about what style of brewing you want to accomplish. I personally use one vessel for an HLT, Mash/sparse in the tun, and then move on to the boil kettle. It’s all about the style of brewing you want to accomplish.

BIAB is very popular, but wasn’t the way I learned to brew. So it’s a personal preference. RIMS is a add on to a typical 3 vessel setup to maintain consistent mashing temps. You get the added benefit of step mashing and what not.

if you are looking into what type of brewing you want to do, I recommend being honest about that in a local club. See if there are people that will let you hang out during a brew day of the various types to determine what you like and dislike. I have found that home brewers are some of the most helpful bunches around.

But deciding on electric from the get go is a great move. Ditching propane was the best decision I made.

Thanks for the response. So if someone were to buy the 2v system they would have to also buy a mash tun separately? There'd be no way to brew with the 2v without a mash tun?'

 

[Southern_Junior]

Thanks for the response. So if someone were to buy the 2v system they would have to also buy a mash tun separately? There'd be no way to brew with the 2v without a mash tun?'

Correct. I used a mash tun from my previous setup. If you look at the 2v, you get two vessels with electric elements. The 3v is two vessels with electric elements and a rims tube. Both require a way to mash.