2nd brew concerns

[Laakkeet]

Hey.

Time for my second brew! Last time around things didn't go too smooth but I did learn alot about brewing and my setup. Got few questions before diving back in, and I realize most of these are probably answered million times over so sorry about that.

Last brew had really metallic after taste and was really strong. Since my og measurements went sideways I have no idea how much, but it really got you drunk. Strong alcohol taste too. Going to get some better measurements this time!

During fermentation the room temperature got really high couple times, so that probably had a lot to do with the off tastes. Now I got better place for my fermenter with temp around 18-20C (62-68F). Going to put the fermenter into water bucket with some wet cloth on top too. That should be enough to keep the temp from going up?

Last time I planned to use two kettles for boiling and ended up using 3. Boil off was insane and it was crazy mess to boil. This time I will make smaller 2,5 gallon batch and stick with just 1 kettle. Also noticed that my bottling bucket had alot of scratches on the inside and from what I understand that can lead to infections, off tastes and even ruining the beer due not sanitizing? And as 8 gallon bucket would have ton of headspace for 2,5 gallon batch, I figured I will get new 3 gallon fermenter with tap on the bottom. Could skip getting new bottling bucket and less headspace.

Since I will be making small batch and need new measuring jar anyways, I was thinking of getting Fermtech Wine Thief. It's supposedly allows for easy return of the sample back to fermenter. Tempted to save the samples since going for small batch but sounds like high possibility for infection?

I didn't dryhop my first brew and was thinking of doing that now. I read that 7-14g per gallon would be ok? Felt a bit high but I do love dem hoppy beers.

Since I have no idea about my efficiency, I set it to 80%. Last time I went with 60, but it was alot more since my OG was high. Doing fly sparge and mashing in diy-cooling box mash tun.
Would it be good idea to lower the efficiency on the recipe and aim for lower OG? If I get tad higher it wouldnt be too strong?

Here's the recipe I made. I ain't no expert so if something doesn't seem right, please let me know!

Brew2 (American Pale Ale)

Original Gravity (OG): 1.055 (°P): 13.6
Final Gravity (FG): 1.014 (°P): 3.6
Alcohol (ABV): 5.40 %
Colour (SRM): 9.2 (EBC): 18.1
Bitterness (IBU): 56.9 (Average - No Chill Adjusted)

90% American 2-Row
10% Crystal 60

1.1 g/L Amarillo (8.6% Alpha) @ 60 Minutes (Boil)
1.1 g/L Simcoe (12.2% Alpha) @ 15 Minutes (Boil)
0.5 g/L Citra (11.1% Alpha) @ 5 Minutes (Boil)
1.1 g/L Amarillo (8.6% Alpha) @ 7 Days (Dry Hop)
0.5 g/L Citra (11.1% Alpha) @ 7 Days (Dry Hop)
1.1 g/L Simcoe (12.2% Alpha) @ 7 Days (Dry Hop)


Single step Infusion at 66°C for 60 Minutes. Boil for 60 Minutes

Fermented at 20°C with Safale US-05



Cheers!

 

[brewpool]

Calculate your pre boil gravity and then take a measurement of it before you start the boil. If it comes in high, you could always dilute it with water. If it comes in low you'll have to deal with it or add extract.

http://www.brewersfriend.com/allgrain-ogfg/

The recipe looks good to me. Solid hop choices. Good luck!

 

[spiff2268]

Had the same problem with my last batch. The day after I brewed my AC went on the blink. I had to turn it off during the day so temps in my house were pushing 80 F. Your bad taste may be fusel alcohols. They may cause headaches, but they won't kill you. As for me I got lucky. My batch turned out pretty good.

 

[Laakkeet]

Thanks brewpool! That should do the trick.

Hoping I wont get unlucky with temps and off tastes this time. Mainstreaming my process and removing the scratched parts should help tho.

I guess ill skip the wine thief and just drink the samples. Trying to minimize the amount of samples tho, so if I throw in the dry hops after 2 weeks and check FG after week of dryhopping it would be ok?

 

[kh54s10]

Set your efficiency in recipe building software to 70% if you don't actually know what to expect. 80% is pretty high. If you have it set at 80 and get 60 you will have a weak beer. If you set it at 70 and get 60 = not too bad. If you set it at 70 and get 80 it will be a little bigger of a beer.

I suggest you get a new bottling bucket when you are able to boil a 5 gallon batch. It is far easier to add priming sugar solution to the bucket than to prime each bottle.

 

[brewpool]

Thanks brewpool! That should do the trick.

Hoping I wont get unlucky with temps and off tastes this time. Mainstreaming my process and removing the scratched parts should help tho.

I guess ill skip the wine thief and just drink the samples. Trying to minimize the amount of samples tho, so if I throw in the dry hops after 2 weeks and check FG after week of dryhopping it would be ok?

For the dry hopping, that is what I generally do with my ales. I give them two weeks then dry hop for one week. I don't even measure FG until after I rack to a bottling bucket as three weeks is plenty of time for fermentation to complete. For reference, depending on style I use about 2-3 Oz of hops in a 5.5 gallon batch. I lean towards 3 Oz for an IPA

For fermentation temperature, how are you controlling? The alcohol tastes and kick could have been fusel alcohol from too high a fermentation temperature I use a chest freezer with a temperature controller and generally set to 64F. If using a swamp cooler I would go on the low end since fermentation will produce heat and raise your temp.

 

[Laakkeet]

Set your efficiency in recipe building software to 70% if you don't actually know what to expect. 80% is pretty high. If you have it set at 80 and get 60 you will have a weak beer. If you set it at 70 and get 60 = not too bad. If you set it at 70 and get 80 it will be a little bigger of a beer.

I suggest you get a new bottling bucket when you are able to boil a 5 gallon batch. It is far easier to add priming sugar solution to the bucket than to prime each bottle.

Ok, will drop the recipe efficiency down to 70. And if I happen to go really high, I can add some water pre-boil to even it a bit?

I was under the impression that I could add the priming solution straight to fermenter? I will have tap in my fermenter so figured I could bottle straight from it after adding the priming solution.

I doubt I will get to brewing 5 gallon batches anytime soon, but will keep that in mind. Would need to buy ton of new stuff like hotplates and bigger pot. Figured that if I need more beer, I will get second 3 gallon fermenter and make 2 different brews around same time.

For the dry hopping, that is what I generally do with my ales. I give them two weeks then dry hop for one week. I don't even measure FG until after I rack to a bottling bucket as three weeks is plenty of time for fermentation to complete. For reference, depending on style I use about 2-3 Oz of hops in a 5.5 gallon batch. I lean towards 3 Oz for an IPA

For fermentation temperature, how are you controlling? The alcohol tastes and kick could have been fusel alcohol from too high a fermentation temperature I use a chest freezer with a temperature controller and generally set to 64F. If using a swamp cooler I would go on the low end since fermentation will produce heat and raise your temp.

Last time I had room temp around 68F and I figuredit would be ok to let it just ferment there. Later I realized that the fermenting itself will produce some heat. On top of that outiside temp went from -20C to +10 for few days and room temp went sky high. Ofc this happens when I am out of town so couldn't do anything about it.
This time I am going with swamp cooler and got the room temp down to 62F.

 

[RedlegEd]

Last brew had really metallic after taste and was really strong.

When I bottled, I would sometimes get that metallic taste as well. As others have already posted, the strong, "hot" alcohol flavor is caused by fusel alcohol from fermenting at too high a temperature. As for the metallic taste, it can come from the kettle not being properly passivated, especially if you use aluminum. It can also come from an imbalance of minerals in your brewing water (i.e. high Magnesium or Iron,) or what happened to me, from "carbonic bite" from being too carbonated. That came from not following a good priming calculator, and I also found sometimes happened if I used table sugar instead of corn sugar. In any case, good luck on your second brew!

 

[KepowOb]

As far as adding thee priming solution to the primary, I would avoid doing that.

You need to mix the solution with the beer, and if it's in the primary, it's going g to stir up all the yeast and trub that's settled down to the bottom of the fermenter.

While I find it much easier to put a priming solution into my bottling bucket, then rack on top, if you can't do that, a lot of people put a small amount of sugar into each bottle... I don't see why you'd need a bottling bucket if your doing it that way.

 

[IslandLizard]

Keep the fermentation temps down (low side of the range for the yeast used), and constant. It is the most significant improvement you can make.

Fermentation temps are the most critical for the first 1/2 to 2/3 of the fermentation process. Raising it a bit or gradually after that helps in finishing the fermentation and conditioning the beer.

Aside from a fermentation fridge, I often use a large 30 gallon (120qt) cooler in which I can place 2 buckets, with enough cold water until right before the buckets start to float. I add 16-20 oz frozen water bottles (2-6 a day) to keep the temps where I want them to be, between 63-65F. That huge water jacket helps keeping the temps constant. I cover the whole lot with some thick towels to keep the cold in. It's also placed in the coolest, most constant temp room of the house, in my lower level bathroom, below grade.

 

[Laakkeet]

As far as adding thee priming solution to the primary, I would avoid doing that.

You need to mix the solution with the beer, and if it's in the primary, it's going g to stir up all the yeast and trub that's settled down to the bottom of the fermenter.

While I find it much easier to put a priming solution into my bottling bucket, then rack on top, if you can't do that, a lot of people put a small amount of sugar into each bottle... I don't see why you'd need a bottling bucket if your doing it that way.

True! I used the solution last time and it feels much easier and sugar gets sanitized too. Ill just take the tap from my old one and get some cheap bucket to attach it on. Thanks!

 

[Laakkeet]

Since I have to order my supplies online, Ill save some cash and order for next batch on same order. Was planning to brew some red ale for xmas!

I will use the same yeast (us05) and as I brew only 2,5 gallons, one pack feels a bit overkill? Probably would be brewing on same day I bottle the first batch, so can I save half pack and use for next batch?

Recipe I've been planning for my Amber:

80% Pale malt (2-row)
10% Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L
8% Melanoiden malt
2% Roastes Barley

10g Chinook - 60min
10g Amarillo - 5min

Dry hop for 7 days with:
5g Chinook
10g Amarillo

Will fine tune with BrewMate when I get home, but am I on right track?

 

[Laakkeet]

Alrighto, brewday is getting closer and was going through my equipment.

Broke my hydrometer last time. Now I got couple old ones from my dad and Instructions are long gone.

Having hard time reading the scale tho. It has g/l scale and the one in picture.

I figured it's read something like this?

0 = 1.000
10 = 1.010
50 = 1.050

Seem legit?

http://imgur.com/gs89W6p

 

[Laakkeet]

Brewing day done! I had to dilute the wort post boil for about 1L to get my og to 1.050 but all went ok. Boiloff was about 15% and my preboil gravity was tad higher than assumed.

I accidentaly stirred my rehydrating yeast without dipping the spoon into starsan first. I did sanitize it before the 1st stir and briefly put in under running tap after that. Hoping it wont mess up my beer too much but really had no choise but to use it. 3 days to get new yeast pack via mail so no change of doing it again.

Thanks or the help everyone!

 

[ncbrewer]

I accidentaly stirred my rehydrating yeast without dipping the spoon into starsan first. I did sanitize it before the 1st stir and briefly put in under running tap after that.

I find it convenient to have a shallow pan of star san and keep the small items in it. Then when I pick it up, it's already sanitized. I'm still careful about dripping the star san from my fingers into yeast or wort - if unavoidable, I wait 30 seconds after getting wet with star san so my fingers are sanitized. I also have a mug completely full of star san that I keep the thermometer and wort stirring spoon in - that works well.

 

[brewpool]

I accidentaly stirred my rehydrating yeast without dipping the spoon into starsan first. I did sanitize it before the 1st stir and briefly put in under running tap after that. Hoping it wont mess up my beer too much but really had no choise but to use it. 3 days to get new yeast pack via mail so no change of doing it again.

Thanks or the help everyone!

I made this mistake once and my beer turned out just fine. I wouldn't sweat it as it is out of your control now.

Congratulations on your brew day!

 

[Laakkeet]

I find it convenient to have a shallow pan of star san and keep the small items in it. Then when I pick it up, it's already sanitized. I'm still careful about dripping the star san from my fingers into yeast or wort - if unavoidable, I wait 30 seconds after getting wet with star san so my fingers are sanitized. I also have a mug completely full of star san that I keep the thermometer and wort stirring spoon in - that works well.

I had bucket of star san on my feet but mug / pan on the table is great idea. Why I didn't think of that misefl!

I made this mistake once and my beer turned out just fine. I wouldn't sweat it as it is out of your control now.

Congratulations on your brew day!

Thanks! All I can do now is RDWHAHB (Or in this case some craft). Read some stories on the forum and seems that the yeasts can handle alot of mess ups for us.

Keep the fermentation temps down (low side of the range for the yeast used), and constant. It is the most significant improvement you can make.

Fermentation temps are the most critical for the first 1/2 to 2/3 of the fermentation process. Raising it a bit or gradually after that helps in finishing the fermentation and conditioning the beer.
.

I put the carboy into a bucket of water and set a wet towel to cover some of it. The room temp is ~18c (65F) and rather steady. Water in the bucket stays steadily at 16c (61F). Yeast temp range is 12c - 25c, so I am on the lower end.

12 hours from pitching I got some activity. Airlock lid had raised up little bit, as apparently I had bit too much starsan water in the lock. I gently pushed it back down and the excess water got out. I could feel some resistance pushing it down so theres definetly CO2 coming out. Few hours later it stayed same but no visible action in airlock. Could it be the cooler temp keeping the fermentation slower? My speidel airlock could also be a bit overkill for my 3G batch, so that could be a cause for my low activity?

Checked the rubber seal and it's tight. Spigot aint letting anything trough either so no leaks.

 

[IslandLizard]

Sounds like it's fermenting! Keep those temps lowish (62-65F) and constant until it's about 3/4 done, then let it free rise to finish out.

 

[Laakkeet]

Sounds like it's fermenting! Keep those temps lowish (62-65F) and constant until it's about 3/4 done, then let it free rise to finish out.

Will do, thanks!
Was planning on dry hopping after 2 weeks as I figured it should have fermented by then. So possibly start rising the temp around 10th day and let it rise, dryhopping on 14th? And just to clarify, to free rise you mean take it out from bath and let it be or should I rise the room temp as well?

 

[IslandLizard]

Once the krausen is falling it is usually about done, 3-7 days. That's a good time to let it warm up a bit to finish out and clean up/condition for another week. Don't use a secondary, no need for them here.

You can start dry hopping once the beer starts clearing nicely. Give it 4 days to a week at room temps.

Good luck with this new batch! Don't lift the lid...

 

[Laakkeet]

Once the krausen is falling it is usually about done, 3-7 days. That's a good time to let it warm up a bit to finish out and clean up/condition for another week. Don't use a secondary, no need for them here.

You can start dry hopping once the beer starts clearing nicely. Give it 4 days to a week at room temps.

Good luck with this new batch! Don't lift the lid...

I've had it at 61F for 6 days, very low airlock action during that time and foamy krausen that is not falling. I was planning to move it into room temp closet (68 - 70f) tomorrow. It's ok to let the temp rise even if the krausen aint falling?

And thanks! This batch feels like it's going to be better

 

[IslandLizard]

61F is very much on the low end for US-05. No wonder you had little activity and the krausen remains. Raise it to 65 for a few days (3-5) first. See what happens.

 

[Laakkeet]

Sampled a bottle today and it was great! Not much head tho. Leaving it for another week to carbon could help? Its now 3 weeks since bottling.

It was really clear but the colour was brown instead of light pale ale. I used 90% Pale Ale Malt and 10% Crystal 150ebc (60L). Too much crystal for pale ale maybe?

Really happy with the result and the recipe is definetly a keeper. If I add bit of roasted barley next time, it should be more amber ale colour?

Thank you all for helping me out!