I was going to say the same.. The cheapest most effective boil controller I know of is still the stilldragon kit here,Yes, a Leviton 3032, or equivalent, will work for switching a 5500W element on and off. As others have noted, you will not be happy having to control boil vigor from a 5500W element manually. You will end up turning the element on and off every few seconds, and the switch life is likely to be short with this level of use. I suggest you try it out with water first, just to get a feel for the boil vigor you will get with your kettle and liquid volumes. Note that water doesn't have the same propensity to foam up and boil over as does wort, so boiling wort will be even more sensitive than boiling water.
Brew on
Personally, I'd add a 3032 switch to the incoming power of the Stilldragon. If the SSVR fails "on" (the most common failure mode) there is no way to turn off power to the element except unplugging the controller (probably accompanied by significant arcing.)
Yup.
neutral is not needed.. it would only be useful for 120v devices.. 10awg is good for 30a and is more than enough for inside the panel. I normally install a terminal block with fused 18awg or even 20 awg wire for power to power up the pid since it draws less than 1 amp. Same for the trigger power to the ssr its low voltage DC power so no need for large gauge/current wire. But theres a lot of ways to do it
