2" triclamp installation. Hole size?

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sushieater

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I'm building up a new electric 20G kettle.

2" triclamp 5500watt heating element
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B06XGNBC3J/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

2" triclamp ferrule
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B06XGNBC3J/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I've seen a few different ways to install these. Anyone have any experience if soldering will hold up ok on this bigger triclamp w/ the heating element installed? I haven't seen a lot of people with success stories.

I've seen more people soldering a spud ferrule instead of dimpling the hole and installing a straight ferrule like I ordered.

I picked up a 1->2" reducer that I could use to dimple the opening. What size hole should I make if I'm going to dimple? 1-7/8"? I've got access to a set of greenlee punches.

If this doesn't work out, I have a good welder who will do for free, but he's not around for 2 months.

Any advice appreciated!

Thanks!
 
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I have not done this yet but I have read that a punch should not be used as it will work harden the metal which will most likely make the metal split or crack when you dimple it. Please report back when you have done it as plenty of us would like to do this too. I will say that the Harris stay clean flux and stay bright 8 solder is awesome stuff for soldering stainless.
 
check in with the guys at norcal brew solutions. i remember seeing a new tool they devised to dimple for welding on TC fittings. was pretty basic, easy to do yourself.

TC sizes (nominal) are based on interior pipe sizing. so in theory a 2" fitting should mate to a 2" hole. how that works when you dimple it outwards vs doing straight buttweld, i dont know. maybe the measurement of your fitting to be welded is the guiding number.

i bet the guys at norcal can give you the details.
 
I have used these three times and they have been holding up great. He also sells solder and flux. The initial problem I had soldering these on was using too much heat. I overheated the joining pieces. I found that the torch I use for cooking and lighting cigars worked great because of the pinpoint flame.
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc2rsf.htm
The weld fittings you have worked great soldered to my cover. It too seems to be strong but if it fails it only holds on my venting device. Pictures here if you want post #341,https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...-no-overhead-ventilation-needed.636955/page-9
 
I have not done this yet but I have read that a punch should not be used as it will work harden the metal which will most likely make the metal split or crack when you dimple it.[...]

I used a Greenlee punch for 15 holes across five Blichmann kettles. The last was as perfect as the first.
Work-hardening requires heat or repetitive stress. Aside from the small pilot hole a Greenlee punch isn't going to create heat...

Cheers!
 
I used a Greenlee punch for 15 holes across five Blichmann kettles. The last was as perfect as the first.
Work-hardening requires heat or repetitive stress. Aside from the small pilot hole a Greenlee punch isn't going to create heat...

Cheers!

One thing is for sure, you don't want to make the initial hole with a greenlee punch. You will crack the pot when flaring.

I was thinking of this when I said I read that. So are you talking about using a greenlee punch and then flaring?
 
I was thinking of this when I said I read that. So are you talking about using a greenlee punch and then flaring?

Interesting, I hadn't heard this before.

I was planning on using the greenlee punch and then flaring the hole before soldering. I thought this was standard practice.

Is the argument that a hole-saw is better if planning to flare as it hardens the metal while cutting the hole?

A friend just soldered in 10+ fittings in three keggles using the greenlee punch and his homemade dimple tool. He didn't have any issue w/ cracking. Does the thicker keg wall help prevent this?

My kettle says the wall thickness is 1.2mm, which appears to be roughly 18gauge.
 
Interesting, I hadn't heard this before.

I was planning on using the greenlee punch and then flaring the hole before soldering. I thought this was standard practice.

Is the argument that a hole-saw is better if planning to flare as it hardens the metal while cutting the hole?

A friend just soldered in 10+ fittings in three keggles using the greenlee punch and his homemade dimple tool. He didn't have any issue w/ cracking. Does the thicker keg wall help prevent this?

My kettle says the wall thickness is 1.2mm, which appears to be roughly 18gauge.


I am really not the guy to ask, I was quoting @Bobby_M from Brew Hardware. I want to know whats up myself, care to chime in here Bobby?
 
I was punching holes for weldless fittings, so no flaring.
Bobby's take is interesting but more information would be needed to understand what he was seeing...

Cheers!
 
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