• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

American Pale Ale 15 Minute Cascade Pale Ale

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Do you guys recommend upping the dry-hopping to 2 oz Cascade? And when you add the dry hops, do you just crack the lid, toss in the hop pellets, and stick the lid back on?

Thanks!
 
Do you guys recommend upping the dry-hopping to 2 oz Cascade? And when you add the dry hops, do you just crack the lid, toss in the hop pellets, and stick the lid back on?

Thanks!

I used 2 oz of Saaz (not Cascade) to dry hop. (I had a bunch to use up.) I santized the hops by putting them in a measuring cup, putting in just enough vodka to cover them, and letting it sit for five minutes. Then, I just cracked the lid and threw them in, but then I had some small amount of hop debris floating around at bottling time. I didn't cold crash back then though, I assume that would have helped. If I were to do it again, I might throw the hops in a sack before putting them in.
 
Thanks!

I used 2 oz of Saaz (not Cascade) to dry hop. (I had a bunch to use up.) I santized the hops by putting them in a measuring cup, putting in just enough vodka to cover them, and letting it sit for five minutes. Then, I just cracked the lid and threw them in, but then I had some small amount of hop debris floating around at bottling time. I didn't cold crash back then though, I assume that would have helped. If I were to do it again, I might throw the hops in a sack before putting them in.
 
i just did this brew. followed your recipe to the t. i used notty as its what i had on hand and wanted to add some fruity esters. primaried at 68-70 for 12 days so far and my FG is at 1.022. seems super high. its still in the primary by the way. i left town for the first 7 days so don't know how much activity was going on then. i know my airlock is no hydrometer but i haven't seen any activity since iv been home. i was considering re-pitching another round of notty or adding some nutrients. I'm gonna give it a few more days and see what happens. any suggestions? also, did u guys use a bag to dry hop?
 
reed1099 said:
i just did this brew. followed your recipe to the t. i used notty as its what i had on hand and wanted to add some fruity esters. primaried at 68-70 for 12 days so far and my FG is at 1.022. seems super high. its still in the primary by the way. i left town for the first 7 days so don't know how much activity was going on then. i know my airlock is no hydrometer but i haven't seen any activity since iv been home. i was considering re-pitching another round of notty or adding some nutrients. I'm gonna give it a few more days and see what happens. any suggestions? also, did u guys use a bag to dry hop?

I used a bag. I only did 1oz and it is amazing. I just kegged it on Friday and the sample going in was absolutely phenomenal. It's the perfect amount of hops for me
 
I'm going to give this one a shot in a couple weeks when I pull the ingredients together. I'm pretty new, so it seems like a good one. I tend to like less hoppy beers, should I modify the recipe at all? Different hops, or less cascade? Thanks!
 
reed1099 said:
i just did this brew. followed your recipe to the t. i used notty as its what i had on hand and wanted to add some fruity esters. primaried at 68-70 for 12 days so far and my FG is at 1.022. seems super high. its still in the primary by the way. i left town for the first 7 days so don't know how much activity was going on then. i know my airlock is no hydrometer but i haven't seen any activity since iv been home. i was considering re-pitching another round of notty or adding some nutrients. I'm gonna give it a few more days and see what happens. any suggestions? also, did u guys use a bag to dry hop?

Any suggestions yet? Should I re-pitch?
 
I'm going to give this one a shot in a couple weeks when I pull the ingredients together. I'm pretty new, so it seems like a good one. I tend to like less hoppy beers, should I modify the recipe at all? Different hops, or less cascade? Thanks!

This is a very good recipe. I made the jump to all grain back in March, but I tried this one 'cause sometimes 6 hour brew days suck! This is one of the best beers that I've made. My favorite style is Imperial IPA, so my opinion might be a bit skewed, but I think it's the perfect amount of bitterness for an American Pale Ale. You might want to lower the bittering hops by a touch, however. I do recommend upping the dry hops to 2 oz Cascade. Keep it with all Cascade. It's a perfect hop for pale ales, and with you being pretty green, you can savor all the grapefruity goodness that Cascade has to offer!

I will offer a bit of advice: monitor your fermentation temperature as closely as possible. I've found that in addition to sanitation, this is one of the most important factors in making good beer.

Cheers and good luck! :mug:
 
Sounds like a great beer to beginning summer brewing next year! Heck, maybe even make a small batch sometime because my dad likes pale ales all the time it seems.
 
couldn't I take almost any recipe and double the hops used at the start of the boil and make it a 30 min boil? Assuming all other hops are to be added in the last 30 min., which is usual, just double the bittering hops at the beginning of the boil, 30 min, and make it 30 not 60, no?
 
Well, what would happen is that you would get quite a bit more hop flavor than you would on the basic recipe. For some styles that's fine, for others it would be very much not fine.

That's the beauty of this recipe. You cut the brew day way down, and end up with a beer with moderate bitterness and high hop flavor and aroma -- the very definition of the APA style.

Also keep in mind that this is only appropriate for extract beers. For all-grain there are various other reasons for an extended boil.
 
I just had the thought to try this with either some darker crystal or steeping grains that give it more of amber quality with those same hops. Heck, amber malt extract has 2-row, crystal 60, and munich....maybe I'll do this with amber lme/dme and the hops noted. Just a thought....
 
I gotta try this one. I have a tone of cascades to use. I could have a pipeline of this for a long time!!!!!!! Glad I found this. Thanks!!!!!
 
tcory77 said:
I gotta try this one. I have a tone of cascades to use. I could have a pipeline of this for a long time!!!!!!! Glad I found this. Thanks!!!!!

It's well worth it!

It also seems pretty foolproof. I put it to the test.

I moved my new brew pot to the kitchen sink and soon realized it was a lot hotter day than when I did my first two brews. The ice melted right quick. I had to leave the house and buy more ice.

When the wort was ready to pour into the fermenter was when I remembered I had meant to get a new strainer. Doh! So, in it all went. I reached for the hydrometer, and CRACK! Over it fell. (At least it was still in the plastic container.) So, no OG reading. Then, distracted as I was by the shattered hydrometer, I have no memory of ever aerating the wort before pitching the yeast.

A day or two after sticking the fermenter in the closet, I left town for about a week. When I got back I decided to just leave it in primary. When it was time to dry hop I just opened it up and tossed in two ounces of Cascade, not in a bag. Bottling went fine, except a week later than planned.

I just opened my first bottle of this two nights ago, and I can't stop thinking about the hoppy goodness. Despite the comedy of errors, this is by far my best batch of the three I've brewed. I'm already planning on brewing it again. And on opening that second bottle.
 
I am going ahead with this tonight. I have to up it to a 30 minute boil because I don't have capability for full boil volume. I have 6 lbs. muntons light dme. 8 oz. c40 and 8 oz. c60. I wanted a little more color so I went with 1 oz. of black malt as well. I was going to make this a red ipa of sorts but the lhbs didn't have carared. I adjusted. With the 30 minute boil its going to be 1 oz. cbus at 30 1 oz cbus at 15. 1 oz. cascade at 5 min. and also 1 oz. at 1 minute. Hopville tells me around 55 ibu which is about right where I would like it to be. 5.6% abv. Like mentioned before I also plan on making this a stable at my place. I know it's going to be good. It will give me a good chance to mess with hops. I'm thinking next time a citra/simco/centennial/cascade combo. I believe that is what is used in greenline pale ale at goose island which I am a major fan of.
 
here it is. A little lighter in color than I had hoped. A deep orange to light red in hue. This has a great body to it. Solid malt flavor. An extremely orange hop flavor. Light in the bitterness, I had this hopped to 55 ibus but it doesnt seem it. Love this though. this keg wont last long

ForumRunner_20121106_180021.jpg
 
I know it is recommended to leave this in primary for a month, how would it be affected if that was cut shorter? I am brewing the deception cream stout (12 days in) and want to have a beer ready around christmas. I have done most of my beers with two weeks primary and one week secondary since I bottle everything.

If I did a 3 gallon boil, how would that affect the boil times, would I need to boil longer? and by how much? I don't have beersmith or an immersion chiller yet.
 
ArizonaGoalie said:
I am going to try this as a 1 gallon recipe using:
1 lb light dme
6oz Agave
.33lb crystal 60
1 oz cascade hops

You think the 60 is a little high for a 1 gallon? Maybe .2 lbs would be better ratio for this recipe, if you're copying it.
 
wcarter1227 said:
This is a very simple pale for a brewer of any level of experience. While I enjoy doing my All Grain beers, I still brew this beer from time to time. The plus is that you only have to boil the beer for 15 minutes and you are done. So we are looking at a 2 hour brew day including clean up with a wonderful tasting hoppy yet sweet caramel flavored pale ale. And since its extract and with such a big hop bill you only need to boil the extract for 15 MINUTES! :ban:

Pours a nice copper/reddish color with a 1 finger head that sticks around leaving a nice lacing down the glass.

Grain/Extracts

6lbs Light Dry Malt Extract added to the boil
1lbs Crystal 60 add the grains to the water and steep until the water temp reaches 170 and pull them out.

Hops

2.5oz Cascade 7.5% AA at 15 min
1oz Cascade 7.5%aa at 5 min
.50 oz Cascade 7.5% at flameout
1oz Cascade 7.5% dry hop 7 days after primary fermentation has wrapped up.

This beer is great with notty as I typically use notty on my beers I want to ferment on the cooler side. I imagine any clean fermenting yeast would do well. If you want some fruity esters I have done this recipe twice with s-04.

I am a new brewer. I think I will be trying this after The kit I just bought. Thanks for sharing!!!!
 
You think the 60 is a little high for a 1 gallon? Maybe .2 lbs would be better ratio for this recipe, if you're copying it.

I'm quite new to brewing, and you bring up a good point. I end up using about .25lbs knowing it wasn't exactly scaled down because I only used 1lb DME. Also used about 6oz of organic blue agave syrup at the beginning of the boil.

In addition, all I had was Safale 05 yeast, which I used. So, this was quite an experimental little batch. Will be dry hopping sometime next week. I will let you know how it turns out.

It was so easy doing a 15 minute boil. If this turns out even remotely good I will be doing this in a full 5 gallon batch. And if I do I will be using a White Labs yeast.

Cheers!
 
Brewed this last night! Pitched Notty and she's churning away! Thanks for the recipe! This really did cut out some time. I was able to brew and cleanup after the kids went to bed. OG sample tasted great! Looking forward to getting this in a keg!
 
I just updated the recipe notes. You want to add the grains to the water as soon as you turn on your burner and steep them until the water reaches 170 and pull them out.

after pulling the grains do i add the dme? then return to a boil then start adding my hops?
 
typo13 said:
after pulling the grains do i add the dme? then return to a boil then start adding my hops?

You want to pull your grains when the temp gets over 170. I usually start mixing in the dme while the water is heating up to boiling temp.
 
1056 would be an excellent yeast for this pale ale.

I just brewed this and went with 05, which is the same yeast strain as 1056.
 
Bottled my 1 gallon agave batch last night. My sample tasted GREAT. Refer back to my recipe on how I reduced it to 1 gallon. I'm now going to brew this in a full 5 gallon using some agave again.

Cheers!
 
Back
Top